Food Matters Part 27

4 Bring to a boil, then cover and turn off the heat. Let the pot rest for about 5 minutes; the vegetables you just added should be crisp-tender, and the fish should be opaque and cooked through (if not, return the pot to a simmer again for a couple of minutes). Stir in the parsley, taste and adjust seasoning, and serve with the bread and sauce (if you made it) pa.s.sed at the table. Bring to a boil, then cover and turn off the heat. Let the pot rest for about 5 minutes; the vegetables you just added should be crisp-tender, and the fish should be opaque and cooked through (if not, return the pot to a simmer again for a couple of minutes). Stir in the parsley, taste and adjust seasoning, and serve with the bread and sauce (if you made it) pa.s.sed at the table.

Meat-and-Grain Loaves, Burgers, and b.a.l.l.s

Makes: 4 to 8 servings or more, for appetizers .

Time: About an hour, or less if you start with preground meat, cooked grains, or soaked bulgur Time: About an hour, or less if you start with preground meat, cooked grains, or soaked bulgur

People throughout the world combine meat and grain to get a little extra mileage out of a precious foodstuff, and there's an obvious economic benefit. Start with whatever raw meat you like, remembering that a little bit of fat helps the flavor and texture.

The recipe here serves four to six as a main course, eight or more for appetizers. You can shape and freeze the uncooked mixture for up to a month or so, then cook it directly from its frozen state in the microwave or oven. Or cook up a batch and freeze the leftovers for up to several weeks.

2 tablespoons vegetable oil, plus more as neededSalt1 pound fresh spinach leaves1 pound boneless chicken or turkey thighs, beef chuck or sirloin, or pork or lamb shoulder, excess fat removed; or use already ground meat1 small onion, chopped as small as you can manage2 cloves garlic, chopped as small as you can managePinch cayenne1 teaspoon ground c.u.min or 1 tablespoon chili powderFreshly ground black pepper1 egg2 cups soaked and drained bulgur, or other cooked grains like cracked wheat, steel-cut oats, or whole wheat couscous

1 Heat the oven to 400F. Grease a loaf pan, rimmed baking sheet, or large roasting pan with 2 tablespoons of the oil. Bring a large pot of water to boil and salt it, and fill a bowl with ice water. Put the spinach into the boiling water for about 30 seconds. Drain and immediately plunge into the ice water. Drain, squeeze tightly to dry thoroughly, and roughly chop. Put the spinach in a large bowl. If you're using preground meat, add it to the bowl and skip to Step 3. Heat the oven to 400F. Grease a loaf pan, rimmed baking sheet, or large roasting pan with 2 tablespoons of the oil. Bring a large pot of water to boil and salt it, and fill a bowl with ice water. Put the spinach into the boiling water for about 30 seconds. Drain and immediately plunge into the ice water. Drain, squeeze tightly to dry thoroughly, and roughly chop. Put the spinach in a large bowl. If you're using preground meat, add it to the bowl and skip to Step 3.

2 If you're using whole pieces of meat, cut them into large chunks and put in a food processor. Pulse several times to process until ground but not pureed, stopping the machine and sc.r.a.ping down the sides if necessary. Transfer to the large bowl. If you're using whole pieces of meat, cut them into large chunks and put in a food processor. Pulse several times to process until ground but not pureed, stopping the machine and sc.r.a.ping down the sides if necessary. Transfer to the large bowl.

3 Add the onion, garlic, and spices and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Stir, add the egg and bulgur or grains, then stir until thoroughly combined (a rubber spatula or your hands are ideal here). Transfer the mixture to the loaf pan or shape into a free-form loaf, burgers, or b.a.l.l.s and put on the baking sheet or in the roasting pan. Transfer to the oven and roast until firm and browned all over: A loaf will take about 50 minutes; burgers and b.a.l.l.s with take 20 to 30, depending on their size (carefully turn them once or twice for even cooking). Add the onion, garlic, and spices and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Stir, add the egg and bulgur or grains, then stir until thoroughly combined (a rubber spatula or your hands are ideal here). Transfer the mixture to the loaf pan or shape into a free-form loaf, burgers, or b.a.l.l.s and put on the baking sheet or in the roasting pan. Transfer to the oven and roast until firm and browned all over: A loaf will take about 50 minutes; burgers and b.a.l.l.s with take 20 to 30, depending on their size (carefully turn them once or twice for even cooking).

Fish or Shrimp Loaves, Burgers, or b.a.l.l.s: Instead of the boneless meat, use 1 pound of raw tuna, salmon, cod, halibut, catfish, or shrimp; clean, bone, and sh.e.l.l it as needed. If you like, instead of the c.u.min or chili powder, try 1 tablespoon Fragrant or Hot Curry Powder. Proceed with the recipe. Instead of the boneless meat, use 1 pound of raw tuna, salmon, cod, halibut, catfish, or shrimp; clean, bone, and sh.e.l.l it as needed. If you like, instead of the c.u.min or chili powder, try 1 tablespoon Fragrant or Hot Curry Powder. Proceed with the recipe.

Bean-and-Grain Loaves, Burgers, or b.a.l.l.s: Lentils, pinto beans, and black beans work best, but any bean will do. Instead of the boneless meat, use 2 cups cooked or canned beans, mashed with enough of their liquid to keep them moist. Proceed with the recipe. Lentils, pinto beans, and black beans work best, but any bean will do. Instead of the boneless meat, use 2 cups cooked or canned beans, mashed with enough of their liquid to keep them moist. Proceed with the recipe.

Savory Vegetable and Grain Torta

Makes: 4 to 8 servings .

Time: 2 hours plus resting time Time: 2 hours plus resting time

Layers of vegetables on a whole grain crust make this torta not only delicious but impressive enough to serve to guests. Choose whatever grain you like: quinoa, cracked wheat, farro, steel-cut oats, kasha, and millet are all good. The same holds true for the vegetables; I like the Mediterranean flavors in this version, but you can also try thinly sliced and par-cooked b.u.t.ternut squash, potato, sweet potato, caramelized leeks, oven-roasted tomatoes or peppers, even chiles. For a touch of meat, sprinkle on a thin layer of cooked and crumbled Italian sausage or chopped pancetta.

2 medium yellow onions, halved and thinly slicedAbout cup olive oil2 medium eggplant, unpeeled, cut crosswise into -inch slices4 medium zucchinis, cut into slices inch thickSaltFreshly ground black pepper4 cups cooked grain20 or so fresh basil leaves, some chopped or torn for garnishFreshly grated Parmesan cheese for garnish (optional)

1 Heat the oven to 400F. Put the onions in a large dry skillet with a lid over medium heat. Cover and cook, stirring infrequently, until the onions are dry and almost sticking to the pan, about 20 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons of the oil and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions brown, another 10 to 15 minutes. Set aside. Heat the oven to 400F. Put the onions in a large dry skillet with a lid over medium heat. Cover and cook, stirring infrequently, until the onions are dry and almost sticking to the pan, about 20 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons of the oil and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions brown, another 10 to 15 minutes. Set aside.

2 Meanwhile, smear 2 (or more) baking sheets with 2 tablespoons oil each. Lay the eggplant slices on one sheet and the zucchini on the other in a single layer. (You may need to work in batches, cooking the eggplant on the 2 baking sheets, then cooking the zucchini.) Sprinkle with some salt and pepper and drizzle or brush each with another couple tablespoons of oil. Roast until the eggplant and zucchini are soft, about 15 minutes for the zucchini, 20 or so for the eggplant. Meanwhile, smear 2 (or more) baking sheets with 2 tablespoons oil each. Lay the eggplant slices on one sheet and the zucchini on the other in a single layer. (You may need to work in batches, cooking the eggplant on the 2 baking sheets, then cooking the zucchini.) Sprinkle with some salt and pepper and drizzle or brush each with another couple tablespoons of oil. Roast until the eggplant and zucchini are soft, about 15 minutes for the zucchini, 20 or so for the eggplant.

3 Coat the bottom and inside the ring of an 8-or 9-inch spring-form pan with some oil. Press half of the cooked grains into the bottom of the pan to form an even crust, about inch thick, covering the bottom completely. Layer a third of the eggplant slices on top of the grain crust (trim the eggplant pieces if necessary to fit), then layer half the zucchini, half of the caramelized onions, and some of the basil, sprinkling each layer with a bit of salt and pepper; repeat the layers, pressing down gently on each one, and ending with eggplant. Spread the remaining grain on top and press with a spatula or spoon to make the torta as compact as possible. Sprinkle the top with Parmesan cheese if you're using it. Coat the bottom and inside the ring of an 8-or 9-inch spring-form pan with some oil. Press half of the cooked grains into the bottom of the pan to form an even crust, about inch thick, covering the bottom completely. Layer a third of the eggplant slices on top of the grain crust (trim the eggplant pieces if necessary to fit), then layer half the zucchini, half of the caramelized onions, and some of the basil, sprinkling each layer with a bit of salt and pepper; repeat the layers, pressing down gently on each one, and ending with eggplant. Spread the remaining grain on top and press with a spatula or spoon to make the torta as compact as possible. Sprinkle the top with Parmesan cheese if you're using it.

4 Put the torta in the oven and cook until it is hot throughout and the cheese is crusty, about 30 minutes. Let sit for about 5 minutes before carefully removing the outer ring of the pan. Then let cool for another 10 minutes before cutting into wedges. Garnish with the remaining basil and serve. Put the torta in the oven and cook until it is hot throughout and the cheese is crusty, about 30 minutes. Let sit for about 5 minutes before carefully removing the outer ring of the pan. Then let cool for another 10 minutes before cutting into wedges. Garnish with the remaining basil and serve.

Other Dishes in the Book You Can Eat for DinnerBreakfast BurritosMore-Vegetable-Than-Egg FrittataSalade Nicoise with Mustard VinaigretteThai Beef SaladTabbouleh, My WaySpinach and Sweet Potato Salad with Warm Bacon DressingStir-Fried Beans with Asparagus or BroccoliFast Mixed Vegetable SoupCreamy Carrot SoupCurried Lentil Soup with PotatoesNot Your Usual RatatouilleImpromtu Fried RicePan-Cooked Greens with Tofu and GarlicNoodles with Mushrooms

Desserts There is no reason for an eating style that excludes dessert. While chocolate cake with ice cream is not going to cut it on a daily basis, the model here is mostly sane food with the occasional binge. This chapter represents exactly that.

A couple of things to bear in mind. One, the number of treats you allow yourself daily can fluctuate according to how you feel; remember, it's the long run that matters, not any given day. If you've already indulged in a bag of chips in the afternoon and a steak in the evening, you might reconsider the ice cream sundae; on the other hand, if your day has been rigorously lean, go for it.

Two, consider the composition and size of a dessert. We all agree that desserts usually should be sweet, and these fit that description. What's not essential to desserts is very high fat, superhigh calories, junk, or ma.s.sive portions. (There's a big difference between a huge slice of cake and a sliver. Just reminding you.) Sometimes dessert is a good pear, or slices of fruit with a sweet topping. Sometimes, yes, it's that cake. Mix them up, keep them under control, and not only will you be satisfied, you'll be fine.

Here are a few of my favorites. There are many options, from the marvelous No-Bake Fruit Tarts to Chocolate Fondue to a more or less cla.s.sic Rice Pudding. None will make you feel that you're making a sacrifice.

No-Bake Fruit Tarts

Makes: Enough for 8 individual 3-inch tarts .

Time: 20 minutes Time: 20 minutes

Unlike flour-based crusts, this one-a combination of nuts and dried fruit making for a sweet, chewy consistency that's a perfect base for fresh fruit-can't be overworked, and you never need to turn on the oven. I sometimes add a thin layer of melted dark chocolate in between the crust and the fruit, both to help anchor the fruit and as a little decadent surprise; but you can skip it.

For the topping, berries are a natural choice, but try sliced apricots, plums, peaches, figs, or even kiwi. Dried cherries in the base with fresh cherries on top is lovely; the same goes for apricots or figs.

About 4 cups fresh fruit, trimmed, cored, peeled, and sliced as needed1 tablespoon sugar cup brandy, dessert wine, or champagne (optional)1 cup almonds; or use pecans, walnuts, hazelnuts, or macadamia nuts cup pitted and packed dried fruit, like dates, raisins, dried cherries, figs, or apricots4 ounces good-quality bittersweet chocolate, melted (optional)

1 Put the fruit in a bowl. Sprinkle with the sugar, and the liquor if you're using it. Toss gently to coat, and refrigerate while you prepare the crust. Put the fruit in a bowl. Sprinkle with the sugar, and the liquor if you're using it. Toss gently to coat, and refrigerate while you prepare the crust.

2 Put the nuts in a food processor and pulse until ground, being careful not to overprocess. Transfer to a bowl, then put the dried fruit in the food processor along with a teaspoon or so of water. Pulse until finely chopped and sticky enough to adhere to the nuts (some fruit will require more water than others). Use your hands or a rubber spatula to combine the nuts and fruit in the bowl until they become a "dough." (At this point, you can form the mixture into a disk, wrap it in plastic, and refrigerate or freeze until about 30 minutes before you're ready to use it; defrost if necessary and proceed with the recipe.) Put the nuts in a food processor and pulse until ground, being careful not to overprocess. Transfer to a bowl, then put the dried fruit in the food processor along with a teaspoon or so of water. Pulse until finely chopped and sticky enough to adhere to the nuts (some fruit will require more water than others). Use your hands or a rubber spatula to combine the nuts and fruit in the bowl until they become a "dough." (At this point, you can form the mixture into a disk, wrap it in plastic, and refrigerate or freeze until about 30 minutes before you're ready to use it; defrost if necessary and proceed with the recipe.)

3 Divide the dough into 8 pieces and press into 3-inch round disks on a piece of wax paper or parchment; they should be about inch thick. Brush each disk with the melted chocolate in a thin, even layer if you like, and top with fresh fruit and any acc.u.mulated juices. Serve immediately. Divide the dough into 8 pieces and press into 3-inch round disks on a piece of wax paper or parchment; they should be about inch thick. Brush each disk with the melted chocolate in a thin, even layer if you like, and top with fresh fruit and any acc.u.mulated juices. Serve immediately.

Chocolate Fondue with Fresh Fruit

Makes: 8 servings .

Time: 20 minutes Time: 20 minutes

Fondue is back, with good reason. It's just plain fun, and it's ridiculously easy to pull together. The rules are simple: Use the best chocolate and the best fruit you can find. Strawberries, bananas, pineapple, kiwi, melon, peaches, apricots, and candied ginger all work, as long as the pieces are big enough to spear easily. If you want to experiment a bit, try adding a teaspoon cinnamon and ancho chili powder for some spice, teaspoon of espresso powder, a tablespoon or two of your favorite liqueur, or the seeds sc.r.a.ped from the inside of a vanilla bean.

cup of heavy cream, plus more as needed12 ounces of good-quality bittersweet chocolate, roughly choppedSplash of cognac, rum, bourbon, or kirsch (optional)Chopped nuts (optional)About 2 pounds a.s.sorted fruit (trimmed, peeled, pitted, and sliced as needed), for dipping

1 Put the cream in a saucepan over medium heat and just bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and add the chocolate, stirring until smooth. Add the liqueur and chopped nuts if you're using them. Put the cream in a saucepan over medium heat and just bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and add the chocolate, stirring until smooth. Add the liqueur and chopped nuts if you're using them.

2 Transfer the chocolate mixture to a fondue pot with a low flame (or put in a heated bowl and eat within 15 minutes or so); if the fondue begins to feel a little stiff, add a little more cream and stir. Serve with fresh fruit for dipping. Transfer the chocolate mixture to a fondue pot with a low flame (or put in a heated bowl and eat within 15 minutes or so); if the fondue begins to feel a little stiff, add a little more cream and stir. Serve with fresh fruit for dipping.