Food Matters Part 20

Other Ingredients to Try in Fried RiceSubst.i.tute any of these for some or all of the ingredients in the recipe.

Grated cabbageChopped carrotsMinced hot chilesSnow peas or snap peasPeeled shrimp or squidBits of smoked sausage or ham, or cooked pork or chicken

Pan-Cooked Greens with Tofu and Garlic

Makes: 4 Servings .

Time: 30 minutes (more if freezing the tofu beforehand) Time: 30 minutes (more if freezing the tofu beforehand)

With thick-stemmed greens, you get two vegetables for the price of one: the leaves cook up tender and silky, while the center ribs remain crunchy. You have to take the time to separate them, but it really does make a difference. And do try freezing the tofu overnight (or up to a couple of months); when it is thawed, its texture is dense and meaty.

You can eat this dish hot or at room temperature like a warm salad, with brown rice. Or roll everything into a big whole wheat tortilla.

1 pound firm tofu1 pounds of kale, Napa cabbage, bok choy, or other thick-stemmed Asian greens3 tablespoons peanut or vegetable oil, plus more if needed3 tablespoons nam pla (Thai or Vietnamese fish sauce), or soy sauce1 small chile, stemmed, seeded if you like, and minced, or crushed red chile flakes to taste1 tablespoon sugar2 tablespoons lime juice or rice vinegar, or to taste2 or 3 cloves garlic, cut into sliversSalt and freshly ground black pepper

1 If time allows, freeze the tofu and thaw it out before starting. Either way, squeeze the block of tofu between your palms (over a bowl or the sink). Be firm but not too enthusiastic: you want to push out some excess water without smashing the tofu. Cut in half lengthwise, then slice into thin pieces and set aside. For the greens, separate the stems from the leaves; cut the stems into 1-inch sections and roughly chop the leaves. If time allows, freeze the tofu and thaw it out before starting. Either way, squeeze the block of tofu between your palms (over a bowl or the sink). Be firm but not too enthusiastic: you want to push out some excess water without smashing the tofu. Cut in half lengthwise, then slice into thin pieces and set aside. For the greens, separate the stems from the leaves; cut the stems into 1-inch sections and roughly chop the leaves.

2 Put a tablespoon of the oil in a large skillet over high heat, add about half the vegetable stems, and cook, stirring frequently until they're browned and slightly tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove to a bowl with a slotted spoon and repeat with remaining stems. Remove and repeat with leaves. Remove. While greens cook, combine nam pla, chile, sugar, and lime juice or vinegar in a small bowl. Put a tablespoon of the oil in a large skillet over high heat, add about half the vegetable stems, and cook, stirring frequently until they're browned and slightly tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove to a bowl with a slotted spoon and repeat with remaining stems. Remove and repeat with leaves. Remove. While greens cook, combine nam pla, chile, sugar, and lime juice or vinegar in a small bowl.

3 Add a little more oil to skillet if necessary, followed by the tofu slices; work in batches if the pan is too crowded (these won't take long to cook). Cook, flipping them once with a spatula, until browned on both sides, less than 5 minutes. During the last minute or so of cooking, add the garlic, return the greens to the pan, and stir. Turn off the heat, drizzle with the dressing, and toss again. Taste and add salt if necessary and lots of black pepper. Serve hot or at room temperature. Add a little more oil to skillet if necessary, followed by the tofu slices; work in batches if the pan is too crowded (these won't take long to cook). Cook, flipping them once with a spatula, until browned on both sides, less than 5 minutes. During the last minute or so of cooking, add the garlic, return the greens to the pan, and stir. Turn off the heat, drizzle with the dressing, and toss again. Taste and add salt if necessary and lots of black pepper. Serve hot or at room temperature.

Stir-Fried Greens with Cashews: Instead of the tofu, use 1 cup whole cashews. Proceed with the recipe. Instead of the tofu, use 1 cup whole cashews. Proceed with the recipe.

Microwaved Greens with Tofu: Cut the tofu into cubes instead of slices. Start by mixing the dressing ingredients together as described in Step 2, but in a big bowl. First put the stems in a microwave-proof bowl or plate fitted with a lid or a piece of vented plastic. Cook on high for about 3 minutes (more or less, depending on your machine), until the stems are just becoming tender. Transfer to the bowl with the dressing and toss. Repeat the process with the leaves; this will take only a couple of minutes. Then cook the tofu in the microwave until just steaming, another minute or two. Toss everything together in the bowl and taste. Season and serve as described in Step 3. Cut the tofu into cubes instead of slices. Start by mixing the dressing ingredients together as described in Step 2, but in a big bowl. First put the stems in a microwave-proof bowl or plate fitted with a lid or a piece of vented plastic. Cook on high for about 3 minutes (more or less, depending on your machine), until the stems are just becoming tender. Transfer to the bowl with the dressing and toss. Repeat the process with the leaves; this will take only a couple of minutes. Then cook the tofu in the microwave until just steaming, another minute or two. Toss everything together in the bowl and taste. Season and serve as described in Step 3.

Noodles with Mushrooms

Makes: 4 servings .

Time: 30 minutes Time: 30 minutes

Mushrooms have an earthy flavor and a chewy texture that people often describe as "meaty." And they are, especially if you add dried mushrooms into the mix. This is a wonderfully satisfying vegetarian pasta dish, whether you go for the Italian profile of the main recipe, or the Asian-style variation.

to cup dried porcini mushrooms (optional)1 cup hot water (optional)Salt1 pound fresh mushrooms (shiitakes are nice here; remove the stems and save them for another use) cup plus 1 tablespoon olive oilFreshly ground black pepper2 tablespoons minced shallot or 1 tablespoon minced garlic1 pound dried pasta, preferably whole wheatAbout cup chopped fresh parsley leaves, plus more for garnish

1 Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. If you're using the porcini, put them in a small bowl, cover with the hot water, and set aside to soak for about 15 minutes. (If you're not using them, skip to Step 2.) Bring a large pot of water to a boil and salt it. If you're using the porcini, put them in a small bowl, cover with the hot water, and set aside to soak for about 15 minutes. (If you're not using them, skip to Step 2.)

2 Rinse the fresh mushrooms and trim off any hard, tough spots; cut them into small chunks or slices. If you're using the porcini, lift them out of the soaking water; save the water, undisturbed, so that the sediment settles on the bottom of the bowl. Rinse the fresh mushrooms and trim off any hard, tough spots; cut them into small chunks or slices. If you're using the porcini, lift them out of the soaking water; save the water, undisturbed, so that the sediment settles on the bottom of the bowl.

3 Put cup of the oil in a medium to large skillet over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add all of the mushrooms and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Raise the heat to medium-high and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms begin to brown, at least 10 minutes. Add the shallot or garlic and stir until the mushrooms are tender, another minute or two. Turn off the heat. Put cup of the oil in a medium to large skillet over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add all of the mushrooms and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Raise the heat to medium-high and cook, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms begin to brown, at least 10 minutes. Add the shallot or garlic and stir until the mushrooms are tender, another minute or two. Turn off the heat.

4 Cook the pasta until tender but not mushy, from 6 to 8 minutes. When it's almost done, add about cup of the pasta cooking water to the mushrooms (or use the porcini soaking liquid, being careful to leave the sediment in the bowl), turn the heat to low, and reheat gently. Drain the pasta, reserving a little more of the cooking water. Toss the pasta and the mushrooms together with the remaining tablespoon of olive oil; add a little of the pasta cooking water (or porcini liquid) if the dish seems dry. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Stir in the parsley and serve garnished with more parsley. Cook the pasta until tender but not mushy, from 6 to 8 minutes. When it's almost done, add about cup of the pasta cooking water to the mushrooms (or use the porcini soaking liquid, being careful to leave the sediment in the bowl), turn the heat to low, and reheat gently. Drain the pasta, reserving a little more of the cooking water. Toss the pasta and the mushrooms together with the remaining tablespoon of olive oil; add a little of the pasta cooking water (or porcini liquid) if the dish seems dry. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Stir in the parsley and serve garnished with more parsley.

Other Dishes in the Book You Can Eat for LunchBreakfast Burritos More-Vegetable-Than-Egg Frittata Breakfast Couscous Savory Bread Pudding Easy Socca Socca or or Farinata Farinata Easy Whole Grain Pizza Vegetable Pancakes Stir-Fried Vegetables with Sh.e.l.lfish or Meat Orchiette with Broccoli Rabe, My Style Bulgur Pilaf with Vermicelli, and Meat or Cauliflower Bean and Vegetable Chili

Asian-Style Noodles with Mushrooms: If using dried mushrooms, use dried shiitakes. For the fresh mushrooms, use either shiitakes or regular b.u.t.tons. Subst.i.tute 3 tablespoons peanut oil and 1 tablespoon sesame oil for the olive oil; and omit the garlic or shallot. Use soba noodles instead of pasta. Proceed with the recipe, reducing the noodle cooking time to about 5 minutes. If you like, garnish with a drizzle of soy sauce, sliced scallions, and sesame seeds. If using dried mushrooms, use dried shiitakes. For the fresh mushrooms, use either shiitakes or regular b.u.t.tons. Subst.i.tute 3 tablespoons peanut oil and 1 tablespoon sesame oil for the olive oil; and omit the garlic or shallot. Use soba noodles instead of pasta. Proceed with the recipe, reducing the noodle cooking time to about 5 minutes. If you like, garnish with a drizzle of soy sauce, sliced scallions, and sesame seeds.

Snacks and Appetizers You probably already snack, but when you eat like food matters, snacks take on a different meaning, because you can eat them without guilt. This means you don't have to worry quite so much about getting completely full at meals, as long as you remember to have snack food available.

For me, the basic snack is an apple (and what I've found is that whenever I do keep apples around, I actually do do eat one-or more-a day), a banana, or any other piece of fruit; a handful (or more) of nuts or seeds; some trail mix-in short, something I can grab on the way out the door. Most of these recipes are just a little more formal, and most of them can serve not only as snacks but as appetizers and even first courses. eat one-or more-a day), a banana, or any other piece of fruit; a handful (or more) of nuts or seeds; some trail mix-in short, something I can grab on the way out the door. Most of these recipes are just a little more formal, and most of them can serve not only as snacks but as appetizers and even first courses.

There is a wide range of food here. At the most basic, there is popcorn and homemade Pita Triangles or Tortilla Chips. Just a little more challenging are bean and vegetables purees, which have become standbys in my kitchen (those pita or tortilla chips accompany them perfectly). Pinzomonio Pinzomonio is definitely a step up from crudites. As for handheld snacks, you'll feel no guilt about sending kids out the door with Fruit and Cereal Bites-a kind of homemade power bar without the unnecessary ingredients (you'll eat it, too). And no one will be able to resist the (baked) Root Vegetable Chips. is definitely a step up from crudites. As for handheld snacks, you'll feel no guilt about sending kids out the door with Fruit and Cereal Bites-a kind of homemade power bar without the unnecessary ingredients (you'll eat it, too). And no one will be able to resist the (baked) Root Vegetable Chips.

Warm Nuts and Fruit

Makes: 4 to 6 servings .

Time: 15 minutes Time: 15 minutes

Here I convert good old raisins and peanuts (GORP) into a more sophisticated snack, or even an appetizer, by toasting the nuts in the oven and tossing them-still hot-with dried fruit. My favorite combinations lean on almonds, cashews, and pistachios with a sprinkling of whatever else is on hand, including peanuts, coconut, sunflower seeds, or pumpkin seeds. For fruit, think of raisins, banana chips, dates, dried cranberries, apricots-you name it. (Or skip the fruit entirely and use twice as many nuts.) You may want to double or even triple this recipe: it goes fast and keeps well. And you can always speed things up by putting the oiled nuts in a bowl and zapping them in the microwave for several minutes, stirring every minute or 2 before adding the fruit and seasonings.

2 cups (about 1 pound) mixed unsalted sh.e.l.led nuts2 tablespoons olive, peanut, or nut oil1 cup mixed dried fruitSalt to taste

1 Heat the oven to 450F. Put the nuts on a baking sheet, drizzle with oil, and toss well until evenly coated. Roast, shaking the pan occasionally, until lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Heat the oven to 450F. Put the nuts on a baking sheet, drizzle with oil, and toss well until evenly coated. Roast, shaking the pan occasionally, until lightly browned, about 10 minutes.

2 Put the warm nuts in a bowl with the dried fruit, sprinkle with salt, and toss. Cool briefly and serve. Put the warm nuts in a bowl with the dried fruit, sprinkle with salt, and toss. Cool briefly and serve.

Herbed or Spiced Warm Nuts and Fruit: When you toss the fruits and nuts together, add any of the following along with the salt: 1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary, 1 teaspoon ground c.u.min, a pinch of cayenne pepper, teaspoon ground cardamom or cinnamon, or teaspoon ground nutmeg or cloves. When you toss the fruits and nuts together, add any of the following along with the salt: 1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary, 1 teaspoon ground c.u.min, a pinch of cayenne pepper, teaspoon ground cardamom or cinnamon, or teaspoon ground nutmeg or cloves.

Salty-Sweet Warm Nuts and Fruit: Add 1 tablespoon coa.r.s.e sea salt and 1 tablespoon brown sugar to the b.u.t.ter. Add 1 tablespoon coa.r.s.e sea salt and 1 tablespoon brown sugar to the b.u.t.ter.

Chili Nuts: Omit the fruit and double the quant.i.ty of nuts; toss the toasted nuts in a bowl with the salt and 2 teaspoons chili powder. Omit the fruit and double the quant.i.ty of nuts; toss the toasted nuts in a bowl with the salt and 2 teaspoons chili powder.

Pinzomonio: Crudites You Actually Want to Eat Crudites You Actually Want to Eat

Makes: 8 servings .

Time: 30 to 60 minutes, depending on how involved you want to get Time: 30 to 60 minutes, depending on how involved you want to get

Done right, crudites should bear no resemblance to the pathetic dried-up celery sticks and sour cream soup-mix dip you see at office parties. Instead, this dipping sauce and its variation are based on two Italian appetizers: pinzomonio pinzomonio and and bagna cauda bagna cauda. One key is to use the best olive oil you can lay your hands on; another is to serve a wide variety of the very freshest raw or just-cooked vegetables.

You can use whole cherry tomatoes, jicama or carrot sticks, sliced celery and fennel, radishes, endive spears, and sugar snap peas. Vegetables that are strong-flavored, too tough when raw, or simply not very enjoyable raw-asparagus spears, string beans, small potatoes, and so on-should be lightly steamed or boiled, pulled from the water while still crisp, and shocked in a bowl of ice water. Then there are the in-betweens: broccoli, cauliflower, beets, and other root vegetables. Thinly sliced (or when small) these can be delicious raw, though some people prefer them slightly cooked. Once you have trimmed and cooked them as needed, cut the vegetables into manageable pieces.

Prepare as few or as many vegetables as time allows, and store raw vegetables in ice water to keep them crisp, and keep the barely cooked ones in an airtight container; both will hold well for a day or so. Drain and dry the vegetables before serving, and let them come to room temperature. If you're making bagna cauda bagna cauda, prepare the oil an hour or two in advance and simply reheat it before serving; use a fondue pot if you've got one, but an earthenware dish is fine, too.