Food Matters Part 17

2 Use a fork to mix the oil and lemon juice or vinegar in a small bowl and drizzle the dressing over the top. Garnish with the chopped basil or cilantro and serve. Use a fork to mix the oil and lemon juice or vinegar in a small bowl and drizzle the dressing over the top. Garnish with the chopped basil or cilantro and serve.

Layered Peach Salad: A must when they're in season. Cut 2 peaches into thin slices and layer them into the salad after the avocado or cheese and before the radishes or apples. Dress and garnish as above. A must when they're in season. Cut 2 peaches into thin slices and layer them into the salad after the avocado or cheese and before the radishes or apples. Dress and garnish as above.

Lunchtime Caesar Salad, Revisited

Makes: 4 servings .

Time: 20 minutes Time: 20 minutes

It takes just a couple of tweaks to convert the cla.s.sic-and not particularly nutritious-Caesar salad into Food Matters fare. The meat is optional here; you could also toss the salad with a cup or so of cannellini beans. Lightly cooked vegetables, like asparagus, string beans, or mushrooms, are all welcome additions to, or subst.i.tutions for, the zucchini.

1 or 2 chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s, or pound peeled shrimp (optional)Salt and freshly ground black pepper5 to 6 tablespoons olive oil1 clove garlic, halved2 eggs or 1 1/3 cup soft silken tofu cup soft silken tofu2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice1 or 2 minced anchovies, or to taste (optional)Dash of Worcestershire sauce1 medium zucchini or 2 small zucchinis, grated and squeezed dry in a clean towel1 large head romaine lettuce, torn into piecesCroutons cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

1 If you're serving the salad with chicken or shrimp, heat a charcoal or gas grill or the broiler and adjust the rack about 4 inches from the heat source. Sprinkle the chicken or shrimp with salt and pepper and coat the pieces with a tablespoon of the olive oil. When the grill or broiler is hot, grill the chicken or shrimp, turning as needed, until browned outside and just opaque inside, 6 to 8 minutes for the chicken or about 3 minutes for the shrimp. Remove from the heat and set aside. (If you're not using chicken or shrimp, skip to Step 2.) If you're serving the salad with chicken or shrimp, heat a charcoal or gas grill or the broiler and adjust the rack about 4 inches from the heat source. Sprinkle the chicken or shrimp with salt and pepper and coat the pieces with a tablespoon of the olive oil. When the grill or broiler is hot, grill the chicken or shrimp, turning as needed, until browned outside and just opaque inside, 6 to 8 minutes for the chicken or about 3 minutes for the shrimp. Remove from the heat and set aside. (If you're not using chicken or shrimp, skip to Step 2.)

2 Rub the inside of a large salad bowl with the garlic clove, then discard the clove. Bring a small pot of water to a boil and cook the eggs in the boiling water for 60 to 90 seconds; they will just begin to firm up. Crack them into the salad bowl, being sure to scoop out the white that clings to the sh.e.l.l. (If you're using the tofu, simply put it into the bowl.) Rub the inside of a large salad bowl with the garlic clove, then discard the clove. Bring a small pot of water to a boil and cook the eggs in the boiling water for 60 to 90 seconds; they will just begin to firm up. Crack them into the salad bowl, being sure to scoop out the white that clings to the sh.e.l.l. (If you're using the tofu, simply put it into the bowl.)

3 Whisk the eggs or tofu, gradually adding the lemon juice and then the olive oil, beating all the while. Whisk in the anchovies if you're using them (mashing them a bit), and the Worcestershire sauce. Taste and add salt if needed and plenty of pepper. Toss well with the zucchini and lettuce; top with the croutons, Parmesan, and chicken or shrimp if using it, then toss again at the table and serve. Whisk the eggs or tofu, gradually adding the lemon juice and then the olive oil, beating all the while. Whisk in the anchovies if you're using them (mashing them a bit), and the Worcestershire sauce. Taste and add salt if needed and plenty of pepper. Toss well with the zucchini and lettuce; top with the croutons, Parmesan, and chicken or shrimp if using it, then toss again at the table and serve.

Salade Nicoise with Mustard Vinaigrette

Makes: 4 servings .

Time: 30 minutes Time: 30 minutes

I've always considered the tuna in this cla.s.sic French country salad optional, since the combination of green beans, potatoes, and olives is quite satisfying, but add whatever ingredients you like from the list that follows. If you have leftovers to add, especially beans and potatoes, all the better.

The quick mustard vinaigrette is definitely garlicky; simply omit the garlic if that's not your thing. And since you can always use this dressing for other dishes, the recipe makes enough for you to have some left over; it keeps in the fridge for a couple of days.

cup red wine vinegar, plus a little more if needed2/3 cup olive oil, more or less cup olive oil, more or less2 garlic cloves, minced2 teaspoons Dijon mustard cup fresh chopped herbs like chervil, dill, tarragon, or parsleySalt and freshly ground black pepper pound fresh green beans, trimmed pound small waxy potatoes, like red skin or fingerlings, scrubbed but not peeled, and cut in half8 cups torn a.s.sorted lettuces and other salad greens, including some whole basil leaves if you like1 cup good black olives, preferably nicoise or any oil-cured4 ripe tomatoes, cored, seeded, and cut into wedges1 small red onion, halved and thinly sliced

1 Set a large pot of water to boil and salt it; get a bowl of ice water ready by the stove. Make the vinaigrette by putting the vinegar, oil, garlic, and mustard in a gla.s.s jar or small bowl; sprinkle with salt and lots of pepper and add the herbs if you're using them. Shake or stir and taste. Add more vinegar or oil if necessary and adjust the seasoning. Set aside. Set a large pot of water to boil and salt it; get a bowl of ice water ready by the stove. Make the vinaigrette by putting the vinegar, oil, garlic, and mustard in a gla.s.s jar or small bowl; sprinkle with salt and lots of pepper and add the herbs if you're using them. Shake or stir and taste. Add more vinegar or oil if necessary and adjust the seasoning. Set aside.

Some Possible Additions to Salade Nicoise2 hard-boiled eggs, sliced or cut into wedges1 can tuna, preferably packed in olive oil, or 8 ounces grilled or broiled fresh tuna, cut into chunks4 to 8 anchovies1 cup large lima or cannellini beans, or chickpea.s.sliced or chopped cuc.u.mbersSliced radishesSliced red or yellow bell pepperLeftover roasted vegetables like leeks, eggplant, carrots, or parsnips

2 When the water boils, put the green beans into the pot. When they turn bright green and are crisp-tender (in about 3 minutes), use tongs or a slotted spoon to fish them out and plunge them into the ice water to cool. Drain the beans and refill the bowl with ice water. When the water boils, put the green beans into the pot. When they turn bright green and are crisp-tender (in about 3 minutes), use tongs or a slotted spoon to fish them out and plunge them into the ice water to cool. Drain the beans and refill the bowl with ice water.

3 Add the potatoes to the pot. Adjust the heat so the mixture bubbles enthusiastically. Start checking the potatoes in about 5 minutes. You want them tender at the core, but not falling apart. When they're done, plunge them into the bowl of ice water to cool; then drain. Add the potatoes to the pot. Adjust the heat so the mixture bubbles enthusiastically. Start checking the potatoes in about 5 minutes. You want them tender at the core, but not falling apart. When they're done, plunge them into the bowl of ice water to cool; then drain.

4 Arrange all the salad ingredients nicely on a platter: greens on the bottom, topped with the beans, potatoes, tomatoes, onions, and olives, plus any other ingredients you like. Drizzle with half of the vinaigrette. Or for a more rustic dish, simply toss all the ingredients together. Pa.s.s the remaining vinaigrette at the table, or reserve it for later. Arrange all the salad ingredients nicely on a platter: greens on the bottom, topped with the beans, potatoes, tomatoes, onions, and olives, plus any other ingredients you like. Drizzle with half of the vinaigrette. Or for a more rustic dish, simply toss all the ingredients together. Pa.s.s the remaining vinaigrette at the table, or reserve it for later.

Thai Beef Salad

Makes: 4 servings .

Time: 25 minutes Time: 25 minutes

Cla.s.sic and amazing, this is a dish I crave all the time, with just the right balance of meat to greens. Shrimp and squid are other good options (reduce the cooking time by half). It's also easy enough to take the salad in a vegetarian direction, either by subst.i.tuting tofu slices (the recipe otherwise remains the same), or by adding 2 cups of cooked edamame or other beans when you toss the salad. Note that this is a perfect use for leftover grilled beef.

8 ounces skirt or flank steak, leftover or raw6 cups torn salad greens (mixed greens are nice)1 cup torn fresh herb leaves (mint, cilantro, Thai basil, or a combination) cup minced red onion1 medium cuc.u.mber, peeled if necessary, cut in half lengthwise, seeded, and diced1 small fresh hot red chile, like Thai, or to taste, mincedJuice of 2 limes1 tablespoon sesame oil1 tablespoon fish sauce (nam pla, available at Asian markets) or soy sauce teaspoon sugar

1 If you are beginning with raw meat, start a gas or charcoal grill or heat a broiler; the rack should be about 4 inches from the heat source. Grill or broil the beef until medium-rare, turning once or twice, 5 to 10 minutes, depending on the thickness; set it aside to cool. If you are beginning with raw meat, start a gas or charcoal grill or heat a broiler; the rack should be about 4 inches from the heat source. Grill or broil the beef until medium-rare, turning once or twice, 5 to 10 minutes, depending on the thickness; set it aside to cool.

2 Toss the lettuce with the herbs, onion, and cuc.u.mber. Combine all of the remaining ingredients with 1 tablespoon of water (the dressing will be thin) and use half of this mixture to toss the greens. Remove the greens to a platter, reserving the dressing. Toss the lettuce with the herbs, onion, and cuc.u.mber. Combine all of the remaining ingredients with 1 tablespoon of water (the dressing will be thin) and use half of this mixture to toss the greens. Remove the greens to a platter, reserving the dressing.

3 Slice the beef thinly, reserving its juice; combine the juice with the remaining dressing. Lay the slices of beef over the salad, drizzle the dressing over all, and serve. Slice the beef thinly, reserving its juice; combine the juice with the remaining dressing. Lay the slices of beef over the salad, drizzle the dressing over all, and serve.

Tabbouleh, My Way

Makes: 4 servings .

Time: 40 minutes Time: 40 minutes

I used to say that tabbouleh was all about the herbs, and they're still crucial; now, however, I make this salad with more than the traditional amount of vegetables. The result is a flavorful, hearty chopped salad.

You can subst.i.tute any small cooked grain like quinoa or steel-cut oats for the bulgur. If you can finesse the timing, dress while still warm, so the grain absorbs all the flavors. If you want to subst.i.tute leftover cooked vegetables for the raw ones here (roasted root veggies are quite good, and artichoke hearts are out of this world), figure on about 2 cups. You can also add sesame or sunflower seeds; chopped pistachios or almonds; a handful of white beans or chickpeas; bits of cooked shrimp or squid; or small cubes of tofu or feta cheese are excellent, too.

cup fine-grind (#1) or medium-grind (#2) bulgur1/3 cup olive oil, or more as needed cup olive oil, or more as needed cup freshly squeezed lemon juice, or to tasteSalt and freshly ground black pepper1 cup roughly chopped parsley leaves1 cup roughly chopped fresh mint leaves1 cup peas or fava beans (frozen are fine; just run them under cold water to thaw)6 or 7 radishes, chopped cup chopped scallions2 medium tomatoes, choppedAbout 6 black olives, pitted and chopped, or more to taste (optional)

1 Soak the bulgur in 1 cups boiling water to cover until tender, 10 to 20 minutes, depending on the grind. If any water remains when the bulgur is done, put the bulgur in a fine strainer and press down on it, or squeeze it in a cloth. Toss the bulgur with the oil and lemon juice and sprinkle with salt and pepper. (You can make the bulgur up to a day in advance. Cover and refrigerate; bring to room temperature before proceeding.) Soak the bulgur in 1 cups boiling water to cover until tender, 10 to 20 minutes, depending on the grind. If any water remains when the bulgur is done, put the bulgur in a fine strainer and press down on it, or squeeze it in a cloth. Toss the bulgur with the oil and lemon juice and sprinkle with salt and pepper. (You can make the bulgur up to a day in advance. Cover and refrigerate; bring to room temperature before proceeding.)

2 Just before you're ready to eat, add the remaining ingredients and toss gently; taste, adjust the seasoning, adding more oil or lemon juice as needed, and serve. Just before you're ready to eat, add the remaining ingredients and toss gently; taste, adjust the seasoning, adding more oil or lemon juice as needed, and serve.

Whole Grain Bread Salad

Makes: 4 servings .

Time: 45 minutes Time: 45 minutes

I use cherry tomatoes for this hearty panzanella panzanella because they add chew without a lot of unwanted moisture. But chopped ripe tomatoes-especially if they're perfectly ripe-are equally wonderful. (When good tomatoes aren't in season, try the variation.) Grilled or roasted vegetables, especially eggplants, make a fine addition. Finally, these recipes can double as stuffing for meat, poultry, or vegetables, or can simply be baked in a pan until crusty. because they add chew without a lot of unwanted moisture. But chopped ripe tomatoes-especially if they're perfectly ripe-are equally wonderful. (When good tomatoes aren't in season, try the variation.) Grilled or roasted vegetables, especially eggplants, make a fine addition. Finally, these recipes can double as stuffing for meat, poultry, or vegetables, or can simply be baked in a pan until crusty.