English Costume Part 15

Chaucer, whose eyes saw England in her greatness after the Battle of Crecy in 1346, and in her pitiful state at the downfall of Richard II., saw such a pageant of clothes pa.s.s before him that, in describing those wonderful national types, his Canterbury Pilgrims, he marks each one with some hint of array that we may know what manner of habit was proper to them. Here, then, is a list of the clothes he pictured them as wearing:

[Ill.u.s.tration {The knight}]

THE KNIGHT

wears a fustian doublet, all rust-stained by his coat of mail. It is interesting to note how old-fashioned is the character of this 'verray parfit gentil knight,' for he belongs more rightly to the chivalrous time of the first half of Edward III.'s reign rather than to the less gentle time of Richard.

[Ill.u.s.tration: {The squire}]

THE SQUIRE.

His locks were curled, 'as they were leyed in presse.' His short gown with wide sleeves was covered with embroidery of red and white flowers.

THE YEOMAN

is in a coat and hood of green. He has a sheaf of peac.o.c.k arrows in his belt; across his shoulder is a green baldrick to carry a horn.

There is a figure of St. Christopher in silver hanging on his breast.

THE PRIORESS

is in a handsome cloak; she wears coral beads gauded with green, and a brooch of gold--

'On which was first write a-crowned A, And after, "Amor vincit omnia."'

THE MONK

wears his gown, but has his sleeves trimmed with gray squirrel. To fasten his hood he has a curious gold pin, wrought at the greater end with a love-knot.

THE FRIAR

has his cape stuck full of knives and pins 'for to yeven faire wyves.'

THE MERCHANT

is in a motley of colours--parti-coloured. His beard is forked; upon his head is a Flaunderish beaver hat. His boots are elegantly clasped.

THE CLERK

wears a threadbare tunic.

[Ill.u.s.tration: {The man of law}]

THE MAN OF LAW

is in a coat of parti-colours, his belt of silk with small metal bars on it.

THE FRANKELEYN OR COUNTRY GENTLEMAN

has a white silk purse and a two-edged dagger, or akelace, at his girdle.

'Then come the HABERDASHER, the CARPENTER, the WEAVER, the DYER, and the TAPESTRY WORKER, all in the livery of their companies. They all carry pouches, girdles, and knives, mounted in silver.'

THE SHIPMAN

is in a gown of falding (a coa.r.s.e cloth), reaching to his knees. A dagger is under his arm, on a lace hanging round his neck.

THE DOCTOR

wears a gown of red and blue (pers was a blue cloth) lined with taffeta and sendal.

[Ill.u.s.tration: {The wife of Bath}]

THE WIFE OF BATH.

Her wimples of fine linen--

'I dorste swere they weyeden ten pound That on a Sonday were upon hir heed.'

Her hose was of fine scarlet red; her shoes were moist and new. Her hat was as broad as a buckler, and she wore a foot-mantle about her hips.

THE PLOUGHMAN

wears a tabard, a loose smock without sleeves.

THE REVE OR STEWARD

wears a long surcoat of blue cloth (pers).

THE SOMNOUR

(an officer who summoned persons before the ecclesiastical courts) wears on his head a garland--'as greet as it were for an ale-stake.'

[Ill.u.s.tration: {The pardoner}]

THE PARDONER

has long yellow hair falling about his shoulders; his hood is turned back, and he wears a tall cap, on which is sewn a Vernicle. This is the handkerchief of St. Veronica on which there was an impression of our Lord's face.

This completes the list of Pilgrims, but it will be useful to give a few more descriptions of dress as described by Chaucer. The Carpenter's wife in the Miller's Tale is described:

'Fair was this yonge wyf, and ther-with-al As any wesele hir body gent (slim) and small.

A ceynt (belt) she werede barred al of silk, A barneclooth (ap.r.o.n) eek as whyt as morne milk Upon hir lendes (loins), ful of many a gore.

Whyt was hir smok and brouded al before And eek behinde, on hir coler aboute, Of col-blak silk, within and eek withoute.

The tapes of his whyte voluper (a cap) Were of the same suyte--of hir coler; Hir filet broad of silk, and set ful hye.

And by hir girdel heeng a purs of lether Ta.s.seld with silk and perked with latoun (a compound of copper and zinc).