Encyclopedia of Needlework Part 43

2nd row--with two shuttles and the dark coloured thread laid across the left hand = knot the threads into one of the picots of the 1st ring: 1 double, 1 long picot, 2 double, pa.s.s the right hand thread through one of the picots of the ring, 1 picot, 2 double and so on. After the 12th picot fasten off the threads on the wrong side by two or three st.i.tches.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 510. TATTED MEDALLION. MATERIALS: Fil d'Alsace D.M.C Nos. 30 to 50.[A] COLOURS: Gris-Tilleul 330 and Rouge-Cardinal 304.[A]]

3rd row--with one shuttle: * 3 double, pa.s.s the thread through one of the picots of the 2nd row, make 3 double, close the ring = leave 5 m/m.

of thread = turn the work = 4 double, 1 picot, 4 double, close the ring = leave 5 m/m. of thread again and repeat 11 times from *.

4th row--with two shuttles; fasten the ends to one of the picots of one of the 12 rings of the 3rd row: * 3 double, 1 picot, 3 double = with one shuttle: 3 double, pa.s.s the thread through the picot, 3 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 3 double, close the ring = close to this: 3 double, pa.s.s the thread through the 2nd picot of the 1st ring, 3 double, 1 picot, 3 double, close the ring = again, close to the last ring: 3 double, pa.s.s the thread through the picot of the 2nd ring, 2 double, 1 picot, 3 double, close the ring = with 2 shuttles: 3 double, pa.s.s the thread through the 2nd picot of the 3rd ring, 3 double, fasten the thread to the picot of the ring of the 3rd row and repeat 11 times from *.

5th row--with two shuttles and the dark colour across the left hand: 6 double and 2 picots over the lower rings and 10 double and 4 picots over the upper rings.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 511. TATTED EDGING. MATERIALS: Fil d'Alsace D.M.C in b.a.l.l.s Nos. 30 to 70, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 40 to 50, or Fil a dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 40. COLOURS: Gris-Tilleul 330 and Rouge-Grenat 326.]

TATTED EDGING (fig. 511).--With two shuttles and with the two colours indicated, or in any other combination of colours.

Begin with two shuttles, the red thread across the left hand = 10 double, 1 picot, 6 double = with one shuttle: 6 double, 1 picot, 6 double, close the ring = turn the work = make a second ring like the first and close to it = turn the work = with two shuttles: 6 double, 1 picot, 6 double = with one shuttle: 6 double, pa.s.s the thread through the picot of the ring opposite, 6 double, close the ring = 6 double, 1 picot, 6 double, close the ring = turn the work to make the next half ring.

Make 3 rows of half rings connected by rings. In the 2nd row, you pa.s.s the thread from the ring through the picot to which the 2nd ring was fastened in the 1st row.

For the outside scallops, make with one shuttle: * 5 double, pa.s.s the thread through the picot that connects 2 rings, 5 double, close the ring = with two shuttles: 4 double = with one shuttle: 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, pa.s.s the thread through the picot of the half ring of the 3rd row, 2 double; then 8 picots more with 2 double between each, close the ring = with two shuttles: 4 double, 1 long picot, 2 double, 1 short picot, 2 double, 1 short picot, 3 double = with one shuttle: 5 double, pa.s.s the thread through the 3rd picot of the big ring, 5 double, close the ring = with two shuttles: 2 double, 6 picots with 2 double after each picot = with one shuttle: 5 double, pa.s.s the thread through the 3rd picot of the big ring, 5 double, close the ring = with two shuttles: 3 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 4 double, pa.s.s the right hand thread through the 6th picot of the big ring = with two shuttles: 4 double, then repeat from *.

The footing is worked in crochet and consists of one row of chain st.i.tches and one of trebles.

SQUARE OF TATTING (fig. 512).--Worked with two shuttles and two colours. With the light colour: 2 double, 1 picot, 4 double, 1 picot, 4 double, 1 picot, 4 double, 1 picot, 2 double, close the ring.

1st row--with two shuttles, the dark coloured thread across the left hand = fasten the thread to a picot and make: * 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, pa.s.s the right hand thread through the picot of the ring; 1 picot over the connecting thread, then repeat 3 times from *. The last picot over the picot of the small ring is made at the end.

2nd row--with two shuttles, the light thread over the left hand = fasten the thread to the picot over the light picot: * 2 double, pa.s.s the right hand thread through the picot of the 1st row, 1 long picot over the lower picot, 3 double, pa.s.s the thread through the next picot of the 1st row = in the corner, 1 rather longer picot than the one before, 3 double, pa.s.s the right hand thread through a picot, 1 long picot, 2 double, pa.s.s the thread through a picot; repeat 3 times from *. To form the last picot, fasten off the thread on the wrong side by two or three st.i.tches.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 512. SQUARE OF TATTING. MATERIALS: Fil d'Alsace D.M.C in b.a.l.l.s Nos. 30 to 100, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 10 to 60, or Fil a dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 70.[A] COLOURS: Jaune-Rouille 366 and Brun-Caroubier 359.[A]]

3rd row--with one shuttle and the dark colour: * 4 double, pa.s.s the thread through the picot above the picot of the small ring, 4 double, close the ring = leave 10 m/m. of thread, make a second ring like the 1st = leave 10 m/m. of thread, make 6 double, pa.s.s the thread through the long picot, 6 double, close the ring = leave 10 m/m. of thread, make another ring of 12 knots, fasten it to the same picot, the preceding knot is fastened to; then make a ring of 8 double knots and repeat 3 times from *.

4th row--with one shuttle and the light colour and worked like the 3rd row, leaving a rather longer length of thread between; then make: 16 instead of 12 double for the corner rings.

5th row--with one shuttle and the light colour = 8 double, fasten the thread to one of the corner loops and between 2 rings of the 4th ring: 8 double, close the ring = turn the work = leave a length of thread, 3 double, 1 picot, then 4 times 2 double knots and 1 picot, 3 double, close the ring. Make the second ring as close as possible to the first, beginning and finishing the second with 5 double knots = make a 3rd ring like the 1st, join it to the 2nd ring by the 4th picot = turn the work = make another ring of 16 knots and join it to the same loop of the 4th row, to which the two other rings are already joined = turn the work = 1 ring above, with 4 picots, like the first one we described, then a ring of 12 double knots below.

At the top, 6 detached half rings, placed between 3 connected rings, which form the corners. The top rings are to be joined after the 3rd double knot, to the 4th picot of the preceding ring.

6th row--with two shuttles and the dark colour only = fasten the threads to a picot that serves as a connecting link, take the dark thread over the left hand and make: 3 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 2 double, 1 picot, 3 double = fasten the thread to the connecting picot and carry the half rings all round the square.

FOOTNOTES:

[A] See at the end of the concluding chapter, the table of numbers and sizes and the list of colours of the D.M.C threads and cottons.

[Ill.u.s.tration: MACRAMe STRIPE--ARABIC SUBJECT.]

Macrame.

Macrame is an Arabic word, signifying an ornamental fringe or tr.i.m.m.i.n.g, which has been adopted as the term for a certain kind of hand-work, known also as knotted fringe or Mexican lace and produced by the knotting, interweaving and tying together of threads.

We have given the preference to the Arabic name because of its less definite meaning, seeing that not only fringe and lace, but tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs of all kinds, in the shape of bands and stripes and headings, can be worked in macrame.

Until its revival about ten years ago, when it was regarded by many as a new invention, the art of macrame making had for centuries become almost extinct and save here and there in the convents, was quite unknown.

The mult.i.tude of uses to which it can be turned as a tr.i.m.m.i.n.g, the infinite variety it admits of and its great durability and strength, make macrame well worth a study; the difficulties that repel many at first sight are only on the surface and any one who carefully follows the instructions given in the following pages, will soon overcome them and be able without pains to copy the charming designs that accompany them, which remind us of the wooden lattices in the windows of Eastern houses, doubtless familiar to many of our readers, under the name of _moucharabieh_.

MATERIALS.--These may be of almost any kind; silk, gold thread, cord, wool or cotton, can all be employed with good effect. Almost any of the D.M.C cottons can be used for macrame; but the ones especially to be recommended are: Fil a dentelle D.M.C[A], Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C[A]

and Coton a broder D.M.C[A] for the finer kinds of work, and for the coa.r.s.er, Fil a pointer D.M.C[A], Coton a tricoter D.M.C[A] and Ganse turque D.M.C[A]. The twist in all these is so regular as to admit of a high degree of perfection being attained with them: they are moreover very agreeable to the touch, a great recommendation considering how much they have to be handled by the worker.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 513. MACRAMe CUSHION.]

MACRAMe CUSHION AND OTHER ACCESSORIES (figs. 513 and 514).--The only really important requisite for macrame work is the cushion, which should be well stuffed, and weighted with lead (fig. 513). It is convenient to have it made to screw on to a table like the Swiss tambour frames. There are other kinds of macrame cushions but none, in our opinion, as practical as these because any pattern can be worked upon them and patterns that have a heading or a border of picots can not be worked on any others. The pegs at the ends of the cushion are for fixing and winding the long threads upon, which carry the knots, and which we shall in future call cords.

For making long lengths of macrame fringe, metal clamps, with round-headed pegs attached to them top and bottom, to fasten the cords to, as represented in fig. 514, will be found far better than a cushion, as any number of threads can be knotted on to them at a time by pushing them more or less closely together on the cord.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 514. CLAMPS FOR MACRAMe FRINGE.]

Besides the cushion and clamps, you will require, some big gla.s.s-headed pins, made expressly for the purpose, a crochet needle for pulling the threads through the stuff when they have to be knotted on to an edge, and a French metre or yard measure to measure the threads with; to these implements may further be added, scissors and a metal comb and ruler for cutting and straightening the ends of the threads.

The length of the threads must depend on their substance and size; that is to say, that a knot will take up more of a coa.r.s.e stiff thread than of a fine pliable one, on which account, to avoid the necessity of preliminary trials, the right length of thread, for the quality and size of material, is given with each pattern. If, for any reason, our workers should not follow the directions given, they must bear in mind that the thicker and stiffer the material, the more they will have to allow for the knots and vice versa.

FORMATION OF THE KNOTS.--Beginners must be careful, in macrame as in tatting, not to move or slacken the cord, or horizontal thread that carries the knots. The knots made by the knotting-thread, as it will be called in future, consist of loops formed over the cord and then tightened. The knotting-thread and the cord are constantly changing places, as you work, loops having to be made now with the one and now with the other.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 515. KNOTTING ON THE THREADS.]

KNOTTING ON THE THREADS (fig. 515).--Excepting when you work with the threads of a material obtained by unravelling and drawing out the cross threads, you must knot on lengths of thread on to a cord; cut them double the length the fringe is to be and fold them in half, so as to form a loop by means of which you attach them to the cord, in the following manner. Put the loop over the cord from the front and bring it back underneath, put the ends down through the loop, detail _a_, and tighten it, detail _b_, as shown in the engraving.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 516. KNOTTING ON THE THREADS ON TO A STUFF EDGE AND FORMATION OF A FLAT DOUBLE KNOT.]

KNOTTING ON THE THREADS ON TO A STUFF EDGE AND FORMATION OF A FLAT DOUBLE KNOT (fig. 516).--Push your crochet needle through the edge of the stuff from the right to the wrong side and catch hold of the loop, formed by the folding in half of the thread that is to be knotted on; pull it out to the right side, put the ends through, and tighten the loop, detail _a_. Detail _b_ shows two double threads, knotted on near to each other in this way, and the first tying together of the two outer threads for the flat knot which is formed as follows: you take the two outer of the four threads hanging down and cross the right hand one under, and the left hand one over the two centre threads. Whilst doing this, hold the inner ones tightly stretched out on the 3rd and 4th fingers of the left hand, detail _b_. The manner in which the two threads are brought back and tied together again is shown in detail _c_; the drawing up of the threads completes the so-called flat double knot, detail _d_. Detail _e_, of the same figure, shows two flat double knots, side by side, and the first step towards the formation of a third, connecting together the two right threads of the one with the two left threads of the other.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 517. KNOTTING ON THREADS ONTO A KNOTTED HEADING.]

KNOTTING ON THREADS ON TO A KNOTTED HEADING (fig. 517).--Make flat double knots as in fig. 516, detail _d_, on a double cord and then knot on your threads on to the loops of the double knots, putting the loop through from the right side, so that it may lie at the back. Use double threads so that the work beneath the heading may not be too open.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 518. KNOTTING ON THREADS ON TO A PICOT HEADING.]

KNOTTING ON THREADS ON TO A PICOT HEADING (fig. 518).--First, crochet a row of chain st.i.tches, then make flat double knots on the chain, far enough apart for the thread between to form picots on the chain, then a second chain of crochet drawn through the picots on one side, on to which tie triple or quadruple lengths of thread, as shown in the engraving.

KNOTTING ON THREADS WITH ROUND PICOTS (fig. 519).--Fasten the lengths of thread to the cushion with pins, about half a c/m. apart, fix the cord to one of the pegs at the left end of the cushion, hold it tightly extended in a horizontal line with the right hand. With the left hand knot the threads that are pinned down on to the cord, looping each end twice round it, upwards from below and then drawing it through between the two loops or knots thus formed, pulling each knot to the left as you tighten it round the cord. Make the second row of knots in the same way, taking care to lay the second cord as close to the first as possible that the vertical threads may not be visible between. One series of knots forms a bar; there are both horizontal and slanting bars as will be seen later on.