Encyclopedia of Needlework Part 4

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 68. SINGLE THREE-ROWED OPEN-WORK.]

The second and third, after drawing out six threads, the third and fourth after drawing out eight. The cl.u.s.ters must all consist of an even number of threads. The upper and the lower band of open-work is to be copied from fig. 58, the centre one, from fig. 57. Divide the threads of the perpendicular cl.u.s.ters in two; insert the needle, from left to right, underneath half the second cl.u.s.ter, turn the needle's eye, by a second movement, from left to right, and take up the second part of the first cl.u.s.ter, drawing it under, and at the same time, in front of the first half of the second cl.u.s.ter. Be careful not to draw your thread too tightly.

OPEN-WORK WITH TWO THREADS DRAWN THROUGH (fig. 69).--One such wide lane of open-work, between two finishing rows of st.i.tches, may have two threads drawn through it.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 69. OPEN-WORK WITH TWO THREADS DRAWN THROUGH.]

OPEN-WORK WITH THREE THREADS DRAWN THROUGH (fig. 70). Overcast both edges with single st.i.tches; draw the cl.u.s.ters together in the middle, as in fig. 68; then above and below the middle thread, draw in first one thread and then a second, straight above it, securing the latter with back-st.i.tches to enclose the cl.u.s.ters between two threads.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 70. OPEN-WORK WITH THREE THREADS DRAWN THROUGH.]

Cl.u.s.tERED OPEN-WORK (fig. 71).--Draw out from sixteen to eighteen threads, between two hem-st.i.tched edges. Fasten your thread in, 3 m/m.

above the seam-edge, and wind it three times round every two cl.u.s.ters, pa.s.sing the needle, the third time, under the two first rounds, to fasten the thread. The thread, thus drawn through, must be left rather slack. A second row of st.i.tches, similar to the first, and at the same distance from the bottom edge, completes this pattern. To give it greater strength, you may if you like, work back over the first thread, with a second, taking care to pa.s.s it under the knot, which was formed by the first.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 71. Cl.u.s.tERED OPEN-WORK.]

DOUBLE-ROWED Cl.u.s.tER-OPEN-WORK (fig. 72).--A very good effect can be obtained by making the above st.i.tch in such a manner, as to form groups of three cl.u.s.ters each, between hem-st.i.tched bands of the stuff.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 72. DOUBLE-ROWED Cl.u.s.tER-OPEN-WORK.]

TURKISH Cl.u.s.tER OPEN-WORK (fig. 73).--After portioning off, and sewing up the cl.u.s.ters on one side, draw out twelve or fourteen threads, and make your connecting-st.i.tch and hem, all in one, as follows: bring out the thread before the cl.u.s.ter, and pa.s.s it round it, then from right to left, over three horizontal and under four perpendicular threads, again from left to right, over the four threads just pa.s.sed over, and out at the second cl.u.s.ter; laying it over this, you bring it out behind the first cl.u.s.ter, wind it round the middle of them both, and pa.s.s it through, between the over-casting st.i.tches back to the hem; encircle the second cl.u.s.ter with a loop-st.i.tch, and carry your thread again over three horizontal and four perpendicular threads, and upwards, slanting underneath the stuff, out in front of the next cl.u.s.ter.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 73. TURKISH Cl.u.s.tER OPEN-WORK.]

OPEN-WORK WITH DARNING St.i.tCH (fig. 74).--Draw out from eight to twelve threads, according to the quality of the stuff. Insert your needle and thread between two cl.u.s.ters, and pa.s.s it, as if you were darning, backwards and forwards over them, until they are encased half way down with st.i.tches. In so doing, work with the eye of the needle forward, and the point towards your thimble. To pa.s.s to the next cl.u.s.ter, take one st.i.tch back, under the one just darned, and bring your thread underneath the threads of the stuff, to the second cl.u.s.ter.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 74. OPEN-WORK WITH DARNING St.i.tCH.]

OPEN-WORK IN THREE COLOURS (fig. 75).--This pattern which is to be done in the same way as fig. 74, requires the drawing out of, at least, eighteen threads. Every cross-line of three cl.u.s.ters is to be worked in one colour. The colours may all be different, or you may if you prefer, take shades of the same colour.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 75. OPEN-WORK IN THREE COLOURS. COLOURS: Bleu-Indigo 311, 322, 334, Brun-Caroubier 354, 303, 357, or Rouge-Geranium 349, 351, 352.[A]]

OPEN-WORK INSERTION (figs. 76 and 77).--For both these, the edges are to be overcast, and the darning st.i.tches packed sufficiently closely together, for the threads of the stuff to be entirely covered.

Fig. 76 requires the drawing out of eighteen threads, fig. 77, of thirty. Both admit of several colours being used.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 76. OPEN-WORK INSERTION.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 77. OPEN-WORK INSERTION.]

OPEN-WORK INSERTION (fig. 78).--After drawing out sixteen or eighteen threads, bind both sides with st.i.tches made over four horizontal and four perpendicular threads, as follows; make one back-st.i.tch over four disengaged threads, then bring up your thread from right to left, over four horizontal and under four perpendicular threads, back over the four last threads, and draw it out beside the next cl.u.s.ter. The cl.u.s.ters, as they now stand, are bound together in the middle, three by three, with darning-st.i.tches. The thread must be fastened in and cut off, after each group is finished.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 78. OPEN-WORK INSERTION.]

OPEN-WORK INSERTION (fig. 79).--First bind the two edges with st.i.tches, in the ordinary way. At the last st.i.tch introduce the thread slanting, according to the dotted line, pa.s.s it under four horizontal and three perpendicular threads of the stuff and draw it out; then over three threads from right to left, and back under the same, from left to right, and out again; over four horizontal threads, and, under and again over, three perpendicular ones; for the next st.i.tch, you again follow the dotted slanting line.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 79. OPEN-WORK INSERTION.]

Then make the darning st.i.tch over nine threads, or three cl.u.s.ters. At half their length, you leave out three threads, first on the right, then on the left, whilst in the other half, you, in a similar manner, take in three; so that you have two darned and two undarned cl.u.s.ters, standing opposite each other. Finally, you overcast the single cl.u.s.ters, and connect every two with a lock-st.i.tch, as shown in the accompanying ill.u.s.tration.

OPEN-WORK INSERTION (fig. 80).--Draw out twenty threads, overcast both edges with st.i.tches, made over three threads. Then, make slanting st.i.tches, proceeding out from these, over three, six and nine threads respectively, all three terminating in a perpendicular line, one below the other.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 80. OPEN-WORK INSERTION.]

For the open-work, twist the thread five times, quite tightly round and round one cl.u.s.ter, bring it to the edge, between the second and third cl.u.s.ters, and connect these by means of six darning-st.i.tches to and fro: join the first and second cl.u.s.ters in the same way by twelve st.i.tches, and finish, by twisting the thread five times round the remaining length of the first cl.u.s.ter. The second half of the open-work figure is carried out in a similar manner over the third and fourth cl.u.s.ters.

OPEN-WORK INSERTION IN FOUR COLOURS (fig. 81).--Draw out, from twenty-five to thirty threads. The outside figures are executed over six cl.u.s.ters, of three threads each, in a dark and light shade alternately of the same colour. Each of the middle figures combines three cl.u.s.ters of the two figures above it, and may be executed, either in a different colour altogether, or in a lighter shade of the one employed in the top row. The little star in the centre should be worked in dark red, or black.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 81. OPEN-WORK INSERTION IN FOUR COLOURS.

MATERIALS: Coton a broder D.M.C No. 20, or Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos.

15 to 30.[A]

COLOURS: Rouge-Turc 321, Bleu-Indigo 312, 334, Noir grand Teint 310.[A]]

OPEN-WORK INSERTIONS (figs. 82, 83, 84).--For each of these draw out forty threads. Fig. 82 worked in white, and Rouge-Grenat clair 309, comprises fourteen cl.u.s.ters, of four threads each. Begin at the top of the big pyramid, so that the threads which you run in, can be more closely crowded together.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 82. OPEN-WORK INSERTION.]

In fig. 83, the two rows of short cl.u.s.ters are worked in Gris-Tilleul moyen, and, Gris-Tilleul clair, 392 and 330;[A] the pyramid of steps, in Brun-Chamois moyen, 324;[A] the three inner cl.u.s.ters in Brim-Chamois tres clair, 418. One figure consists of fourteen cl.u.s.ters, of three threads each.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 83. OPEN-WORK INSERTION.]

Fig. 84 also is to be worked in three colours; the light squares in unbleached cotton, the middle figure in Bleu-Indigo tres clair, 334, the large squares on either side in Brun-Cuir clair 432. Each figure contains eighteen cl.u.s.ters, of three threads each.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 84. OPEN-WORK INSERTION.]

OPEN-WORK INSERTION WITH SPIDERS (fig. 85).--The edges are to be herring-boned, as described in fig. 39. In the middle, the so-called spiders are made, over every group of four cl.u.s.ters. The thread that runs out from the spider, pa.s.ses over two cl.u.s.ters and under one, and then three or four times, over and under the cl.u.s.ters, as in darning, and so back, under the spider, at the place at which it was drawn in, and then on, to the next four strands of thread.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG 85. OPEN-WORK INSERTION WITH SPIDERS.]

THREE-ROWED OPEN-WORK (fig. 86).--Draw out five threads for the narrow stripe, and from fourteen to sixteen for the wide one. Each cl.u.s.ter should consist of four threads. The narrow bands between, are to be herring-boned on either side. The dotted line shows the course of the thread, on the wrong side. Then unite each separate cl.u.s.ter in the middle, with a back-st.i.tch, as shown in the ill.u.s.tration, and finally, join every group of four cl.u.s.ters together, with three st.i.tches, and make a spider in the middle of the open-work, at the point where the threads intersect each other.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG 86. THREE-ROWED OPEN-WORK.]

OPEN-WORK INSERTION WITH RINGS (fig. 87).--Bind the edges on both sides, with straight, two-sided, st.i.tches. Take, for this, Coton a broder D.M.C, No. 30, (embroidery cotton), using it double. Draw out, from twenty-four to thirty threads. Wind your thread six or seven times round the middle of each cl.u.s.ter of nine threads, and then make darning-st.i.tches, above and below, to a length of 3 m/m. When you have completed two cl.u.s.ters, join them together, by four interlocked st.i.tches; wind your thread three times round the single thread, and sew it over with close st.i.tches.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG 87. OPEN-WORK INSERTION WITH RINGS.]

OPEN-WORK INSERTION WITH SPIDERS (fig. 88).--Draw out twenty-four threads. Ornament the two edges with half-spiders. You begin these over two threads, and go on taking in others, to the number of eight. The whole spider in the middle, is made as above described.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 88. OPEN-WORK INSERTION WITH SPIDERS.]

OPEN-WORK INSERTION (figs. 89 and 90).--The beauty of this otherwise simple pattern, lies in the peculiar knot, with which the edges of the stuff are ornamented.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 89. OPEN-WORK INSERTION.]

Carry the working thread, as shown in fig. 90, from right to left, (see the description of the right side) over and under four threads; then bring the needle back, under the thread which lies slanting, form a loop with the forefinger of the left hand, slip it on to the needle, and draw it up close to the first st.i.tch; pull the needle through the knot, and proceed to the next st.i.tch.