Encyclopedia of Needlework - novelonlinefull.com
You’re read light novel Encyclopedia of Needlework Part 29 online at NovelOnlineFull.com. Please use the follow button to get notification about the latest chapter next time when you visit NovelOnlineFull.com. Use F11 button to read novel in full-screen(PC only). Drop by anytime you want to read free – fast – latest novel. It’s great if you could leave a comment, share your opinion about the new chapters, new novel with others on the internet. We’ll do our best to bring you the finest, latest novel everyday. Enjoy
RAISED St.i.tCH WITH DOTS (fig. 430).--After making 3 plain rows, begin the 4th with 3 plain st.i.tches, and proceed as follows: * 6 trebles into the 4th plain st.i.tch of the preceding row, leaving the last loop of each treble on the needle, so that altogether you have 7 loops upon it; then you turn the thread once round the needle and draw it through the loops; miss the st.i.tch that is underneath the dot, make 3 plain st.i.tches and repeat from *.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 430. RAISED St.i.tCH WITH DOTS.]
Then make 3 rows of plain st.i.tches; in the 4th row, the 1st dot is made in the 4th st.i.tch, so that the dots stand out in relief.
RAISED DOTS WITH TREBLES (fig. 431).--Turn the work after making 3 rows of plain st.i.tches, make 3 st.i.tches more in the 4th st.i.tch of the 1st row, * 6 trebles, drop the last st.i.tch of the 6th treble, put the needle into the st.i.tch between the last plain st.i.tch and the 1st treble, take the dropped loop of the last treble and draw it through the one on the needle; miss the st.i.tch under the dot, make 5 plain st.i.tches and repeat from *.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 431. RAISED DOTS WITH TREBLES.]
RAISED DOTS IN SLANTING LINES (fig. 432).--On the rows of st.i.tches that have been previously prepared, make, for the 4th st.i.tch of the 4th row, a cl.u.s.ter st.i.tch, as in fig. 426, with 1 quadruple over and then 4 plain st.i.tches, 1 cl.u.s.ter st.i.tch and so on. The next row is plain; in the second you have to make 1 plain st.i.tch more, and fasten the cl.u.s.ter st.i.tches into the loops to the left of the second of the 3 covered rows.
In this way you have to make each raised st.i.tch, one st.i.tch, in advance and to the left of the last, so that they run in slanting lines over the surface.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 432. RAISED DOTS IN SLANTING LINES.]
CLOSE Sh.e.l.l St.i.tCH (fig. 433).--This pretty st.i.tch which can only be worked in rows, all one way, is more especially suitable for children's jackets and petticoats; it is easy, and has the merit of being quickly done. On a foundation of chain, or other st.i.tches, make: 2 chain, 7 trebles on the 4th st.i.tch, * 1 chain, 7 trebles on the 5th st.i.tch of the last row and repeat from *.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 433. CLOSE Sh.e.l.l St.i.tCH.]
2nd row--** 7 trebles on the chain st.i.tch of the last row which connects 7 bars, 1 plain st.i.tch on the 4th of the 7 trebles of the first row and repeat from **.
PICOTS.--The edges of most crochet work are ornamented with picots, or small points of different shapes, called severally close picots, chain picots and lace picots.
Close picots may be subdivided into, large and small, pointed, and rounded, picots with rounded leaves and picots with pointed leaves.
SMALL ROUNDED PICOTS.--These may either be made separately and then sewn on, or made at once, on to a crochet border. In the first case, begin with 3 chain, then coming back, make 1 plain st.i.tch on the second and on the first chain st.i.tch. In the second case make: 1 chain, take the needle out of the st.i.tch and put it in from the right side, under both edges of the last st.i.tch, take up the dropped st.i.tch, bring it to the right side, * 3 chain; then returning: 1 plain st.i.tch on each chain, draw the needle out, put it in from the right side into the second st.i.tch of the row beneath, take up the loop, bring it back to the right side, and repeat from *.
LARGE ROUNDED PICOTS.--5 chain, miss 3, 1 treble on the 2nd and 1 treble on the 1st chain st.i.tch.
When you want to attach these picots at once to an existing piece of work, drop the last loop and bring it back again with the needle from the wrong side to the right and miss 2 st.i.tches, instead of one, as in the case of the small picots.
POINTED PICOTS.--Cast on 6 chain, then returning, and missing the 6th st.i.tch: 1 single st.i.tch, 1 plain st.i.tch, 1 half treble, 1 treble, 1 double treble.
PICOTS WITH ROUNDED LEAVES.--* 4 chain, and 3 trebles on the first st.i.tch, and 1 single on the same st.i.tch on which the trebles were, **, or 6 chain and repeat from * to **.
When these picots serve as a finish to a straight edge, make 2 single st.i.tches in the preceding row instead of 2 chain.
PICOTS WITH POINTED LEAVES.--6 chain, on the first chain st.i.tch: 3 double trebles, of which you retain the two last loops on the hook, 1 over, draw the thread through the 4 loops, 5 chain, 1 single on the st.i.tch on which the trebles are.
CHAIN PICOTS.--For the small chain picots, make: 5 chain and 1 plain st.i.tch on the first of these 5 st.i.tches. For the large ones: 5 chain and 1 treble on the first st.i.tch.
PICOTS IN BULLION St.i.tCH (figs. 424 and 425).--5 chain, 1 treble in bullion st.i.tch drawn up into a ring, and joined to the 5th chain st.i.tch.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 434. DROOPING PICOTS.]
DROOPING PICOTS (fig. 434).--5 chain, drop the loop, put the needle into the first of the 5 chain, take up the dropped loop, and draw it through the st.i.tch.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 435. EMPTY LACE PICOTS, WORKED IN CROCHET.]
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 436. LACE PICOTS ATTACHED TO A ROW OF St.i.tCHES MADE BEFORE HAND.]
LACE PICOTS (figs. 435 and 436).--Fig. 435 represents picots formed of chain st.i.tches, as follows: 2 chain, put the needle into the first, 1 over, bring the thread back to the front, 2 chain: * put the needle into the two loops, and at the same time, into the second loop and the first chain, draw the thread through in a loop, make 2 chain and repeat from *.
In order to make the picots more even and regular, it is advisable to form them over a coa.r.s.e knitting needle or mesh.
Fig. 436 represents picots attached by plain st.i.tches to the edge of a finished piece of work; this is done as follows: 1 plain st.i.tch, draw out the loop to the proper length for a picot, and slip it on a mesh: put the needle into the horizontal parts of the last st.i.tches, turn the thread round the needle, draw it through in a loop, and make 1 plain st.i.tch on the next st.i.tch and so on.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 437. OPEN-WORK CROCHET MADE AFTER A TAPESTRY PATTERN.]
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 438. PLAIN CROCHET MADE AFTER A TAPESTRY PATTERN.]
METHOD FOR COPYING TAPESTRY PATTERNS IN CROCHET WORK (figs. 437 and 438).--Printed cross st.i.tch and embroidery patterns can very well be copied in crochet work especially when they are in two colours only, or rather, are drawn in one colour, on a plain ground.
The way in which such patterns are copied in crochet is by means of chain st.i.tches and trebles, which, rising one above the other in rows, form little squares. For each square marked on the pattern, you must count, in the grounding, 1 treble and 2 chain st.i.tches; in the solid parts, 3 trebles.
The squares formed by the chain st.i.tches should always begin and end with a treble.
When, therefore, a solid square comes between empty or foundation squares, count 4 trebles for the solid square, because the last treble of the last empty square touches the third treble of the solid one.
Thus for 2 solid squares, side by side, count 7 trebles, and for 3 squares, 10. Embroidery patterns worked in several colours can be reproduced in crochet either by trebles and rows worked one way only, cutting off the thread at the end of each row, or by plain st.i.tches, worked in rows to and fro.
When only three colours are used, pa.s.s two threads under the st.i.tches; when more than two, leave those which are not in use, at the back of the work and only bring them to the front as they are wanted. The thread, you lay aside, takes at the back the place of the one in use. Of course, the threads not in use can only can be disposed of in this way when the work has a wrong side, otherwise they must be pa.s.sed underneath the st.i.tches. The colours should alternate in the order the pattern prescribes; moreover, the last st.i.tch before you take another colour cannot be finished with the same thread, you must pa.s.s the new thread through the last loop and draw it up with that.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 439. CROCHET WITH SOUTACHE OR LACET (BRAID).]
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 440. CROCHET WITH SOUTACHE OR LACET (BRAID).
MATERIALS: Coton a tricoter D.M.C Nos. 6 to 12 or Cordonnet 6 fil D.M.C Nos. 3 to 10. Soutache D.M.C No. 2 or 3 or Lacets superfins D.M.C Nos. 2 to 5. COLOURS: The cotton, white or ecru. The Soutache or Lacet: Rouge-Cardinal 347, or Rouge-Grenat 326, or Bleu-Indigo 312.[A]]
CROCHET WITH SOUTACHE OR LACET (BRAID) (figs. 439 and 440).--These are two patterns of crochet, worked with the ordinary crochet cottons and with Soutache or Lacet D.M.C, a material which has not been used for crochet work before.
Both patterns are worked entirely with trebles; in fig. 439, the red braid pa.s.ses over and under 2 trebles; in fig. 440, it is brought, it will be observed, from the wrong side to the right after every 2 trebles, and pa.s.sed between them, in such a manner as to form a slanting st.i.tch between the rows of st.i.tches.
CROCHET SQUARE (fig. 441).--Begin with 4 chain st.i.tches, and work 1 single on the 1st chain, to make a round. Work, 1 chain and 2 plain on the next chain, 3 plain on each of the next 3 chain, 1 plain on the st.i.tch on which the two first plain are worked.
Slip the next st.i.tch, that is, put the needle in between the horizontal bars of the 1st plain st.i.tch of the previous row, and draw the thread out without making a st.i.tch.
Then make 1 chain and 2 plain on the slipped st.i.tch.
After which, you make 3 plain on the second of the 3 plain that form the corner, and 1 plain on all the other st.i.tches of the last row. The beginning and end of each row, are worked as described above.
Fig. 441 represents a square, worked in consecutive rows. In making a crochet square, the rows may end in the middle of a side.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 441. CROCHET SQUARE.]
When you use a st.i.tch that has to be worked to and fro, you turn your work at the end of every row and work back along the st.i.tches you have just made.
[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 442. CROCHET HEXAGON.]
CROCHET HEXAGON (fig. 442).--Make a foundation chain of 6 st.i.tches, join the round; 12 plain on the 6 chain; finish the row as indicated for the previous figure == turn the work == * 1 plain, 3 plain on the second plain of the last row; repeat 5 times from *. Finish the row with 1 single == turn the work == 2 plain, 3 plain on the second of the first 3 plain; 3 plain and so on. These hexagons can be made of any size.