Encyclopedia of Needlework Part 17

POWDERING AND BORDER. ALBANIAN SUBJECTS (figs. 321 and 322).--The arrangement of colours for these charming patterns, of Albanian origin, should be as follows; the dark-coloured crosses, red, the lighter ones, alternately blue and green, the lightest, yellow.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 321. POWDERING. ALBANIAN SUBJECT. MATERIALS: Coton a tricoter D.M.C Nos. 6 to 12, Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 3 to 25 or Coton a repriser D.M.C No. 12, 25 or 50.[A]

COLOURS: Rouge-Cardinal 347, Bleu-Indigo 322, Vert metallique 465, Jaune-Orange 444, Gris-Brun 409.[A]]

In fig. 321, most of the st.i.tches in every other diagonal row, are worked in red, the others in green or blue; in the intermediate rows the flowers are worked alternately, in green and red, or blue and red, and throughout, the centre of each figure should consist of 4 st.i.tches in yellow.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 322. ALBANIAN SUBJECT. MATERIALS: Coton a tricoter D.M.C Nos. 6 to 12, Coton a broder D.M.C Nos. 16 to 35 or Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 3 to 25.[A] COLOURS: Rouge-Cardinal 347, Bleu-Indigo 312, Jaune-Orange 444, Vert metallique 465, Gris-Brun 409.[A]]

In fig. 321, which serves as a border to the above, only the stalks of the 4 conventional pinks, which, with the cross in their middle, form a square, are in brown.

These squares are separated from the bottom border by an insertion, in Gobelin st.i.tch, worked over 6 threads, in red, blue, green and yellow, from 20 to 25 st.i.tches of each. This band is edged on both sides with a row of stem st.i.tches, worked in yellow over 4 threads. The Holbein st.i.tches that border the band, can be made in whichever colour the worker prefers, or else in red and gold thread.

BORDERS IN STROKE St.i.tCH (figs. 323, 324, 325).--These three patterns will give our readers an opportunity of perfecting themselves in two-sided, square st.i.tch (see figs. 310 and 311), also called stroke, or line st.i.tch, according as it is worked, in oblique, or straight rows.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 323. BORDER IN STROKE St.i.tCH. MATERIALS: Coton a marquer D.M.C Nos. 5 to 200.[A] COLOURS: Rouge-Turc 321 or Bleu-Indigo 312.[A]]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 324. BORDER IN STROKE St.i.tCH. MATERIALS: Coton a repriser D.M.C No. 50.[A] COLOURS: Vert-Pistache 319, or Vert-Mousse 470.[A]]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 325. INSERTION IN STROKE St.i.tCH. MATERIALS: Coton a broder D.M.C Nos. 16 to 60.[A] COLOURS: Rouge-Turc 321, or Rouge-Grenat 309, or Bleu-Indigo 311.[A]]

We again recommend our readers, to begin by ascertaining the course the st.i.tches should take, in order to avoid all unnecessary st.i.tches and be sure of finding their way back according to the prescribed rule.

CORNERS IN STROKE St.i.tCH (figs. 326 and 327).--These pretty little patterns are suitable for the decoration of ladies' and children's collars, fine pocket-handkerchiefs and finger napkins, and can be worked in one or two colours, as preferred. If two colours be used, the darker should be taken for the interior, the lighter for the narrow outside edge.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 326. & FIG. 327. CORNERS IN LINE St.i.tCH. MATERIALS: Coton a broder D.M.C Nos 35 to 200 or Fil a dentelle D.M.C Nos. 25 to 70.[A] COLOURS: Bleu-Indigo, or Rouge-Cardinal, or Brun-Caroubier, or Violet-Lie-de-vin.[A]]

STRIPE IN STROKE St.i.tCH (fig. 328).--This is copied from a piece of Italian work, though from a resemblance in the different subjects to the rose, thistle and shamrock, if might have been supposed to be of English origin. The original work was executed in a most brilliant purple red which time has toned down to the colour of Jaune-Rouille 308, or Brun-Cuir 432, one or other of which we recommend, as being the only colours with which any thing approaching the refined distinguished look of the old embroidery, can be given to the new.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 328. STRIPE IN STROKE St.i.tCH. MATERIALS: Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C Nos. 15 to 50, Coton a broder D.M.C Nos. 16 to 35, or Coton a repriser D.M.C No. 12, 25 or 50.[A] COLOURS: Jaune-Rouille 308, or Jaune-vieil-Or 680.[A]]

GROUNDING IN DIAGONAL LINES (fig. 329).--This pattern can be worked, in any of the previous st.i.tches, or in back-st.i.tch. It is only suitable for large surfaces, on account of the diagonal lines, and should be worked, all in one colour. It can be varied by adding sprays to the upper sides of the slanting stalks, like those on the lower sides, turned either the same way, or upwards. Skilled workers will readily contrive the middles for themselves, by combining the different subjects and putting them together in various positions, either diagonally or at right angles to each other, with the help of the Penelope mirror.[2]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 329. GROUNDING IN DIAGONAL LINES. MATERIALS: Coton a tricoter D.M.C Nos. 6 to 16, or Coton a broder D.M.C Nos. 16 to 100.

COLOURS: Bleu-Indigo 322, or Rouge-Cardinal 347.]

POWDERING IN CROSS, STROKE AND STAR St.i.tCH (fig. 330).--This charming combination of cross, stroke and star st.i.tches, can be made use of wherever embroidery is available as a means of decoration.

The cross st.i.tches, in which the solid parts of the pattern are worked, should be in one colour only, the stroke and star st.i.tches, in Chine d'or D.M.C.[A]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 330. POWDERING IN CROSS, STROKE AND STAR St.i.tCH.

MATERIALS: Coton a repriser D.M.C No. 50 and Chine d'or D.M.C.[A]

COLOURS--For the Cotton: Rouge-Grenat 326.--For the Chine: Bleu-Indigo and gold.[A]]

BORDER IN GREEK St.i.tCH (fig. 331).--All the darker lines here, should be worked in black, colour 473, the leaves in the form of steps, alternately in light and dark red up to the stalks, the line of demarcation being indicated by the different direction of the st.i.tches, so that two light leaves, and two dark leaves, should always face each other.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 331. BORDER IN GREEK St.i.tCH. MATERIALS: Coton a broder D.M.C Nos. 16 to 25, or Coton a repriser D.M.C Nos. 12 to 50.

COLOURS: Rouge-Geranium 349 and 351, Jaune-Rouille 364, Bleu de France 341, Bleu pale 668, Noir-Vert 473, Or fin D.M.C pour la broderie No. 30 and Chine d'or D.M.C No. 30.]

In the original, the cross bars that unite the leaves, are in yellow, whilst the detached figures that separate them, are worked, those that come between the light red leaves, in pale blue, and those between the dark red ones, in gold thread. The exterior part of the figure is filled in with the different colours, indicated above; with the exception of the small squares in Gobelin st.i.tch, which should all be worked in plain gold, or Chine d'or D.M.C, green and gold. The SS in the narrow outside border, should be worked in two shades of blue; the outside st.i.tches in colour 341 and the solid parts in colour 668. The little figures with the transverse bars that unite the SS, should be set in black, and filled in, alternately, in light and dark red, and in yellow.

GROUNDING (fig. 332).--This grounding was copied from a beautiful old cushion-cover and will be found particularly useful in the confection of small embroidered articles, because the pattern will always form a centre point in itself. A light, brilliant red, such as either of the two colours indicated beneath the figure, will best reproduce the tone of the original.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 332. GROUNDING. MATERIALS: Coton a tricoter D.M.C Nos. 6 to 10, or Coton a broder D.M.C Nos. 16 to 100.[A] COLOURS: Rouge-Cardinal 804, or Rouge-Cornouille 450.[A]]

In making the little stars that connect the different squares, the mode we recommended for working stroke st.i.tch should be adopted, that is, beginning, by bringing the needle out in the middle, making 7 st.i.tches, and at the eighth, carrying the needle back under the first, to the spot whence you started. The st.i.tches will then be alike on both sides.

WALLACHIAN BORDER (fig. 333).--A piece of Wallachian needlework, executed on rough linen, and uncommon, both in colour and design, suggested the charming embroidery, here represented. In place of the somewhat violent colours, which indicate an undeveloped taste, we have subst.i.tuted softer and more refined ones. All the stroke st.i.tches of the middle stripe and of the two border stripes, top and bottom, as well as the darker portions of the small dice, subdivided into eight, in the bottom border, and of the small diagonal squares in the top border, worked in Gobelin st.i.tch, are in red, colour 346. The setting of upright stroke st.i.tches round the large centre figures, as well as the straight lines that divide these same figures into four, are worked in yellow, colour 680.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 333. WALLACHIAN BORDER. GOBELIN St.i.tCH, STROKE St.i.tCH AND SPANISH HALF-St.i.tCH. MATERIALS.--For Rhodes linen No. 1: Cordonnet 6 fils D.M.C No. 15, and Or fin D.M.C pour la broderie No.

30.--For other stuffs: Coton a tricoter D.M.C Nos. 6 to 16, or Coton a repriser D.M.C No. 12, 25 or 50 and Or fin D.M.C.[A]

COLOURS: Rouge-Cardinal 346, Rouge-Geranium 326, Vert-Pistache 319 and Jaune-vieil-Or 680.[A]]

The squares and the half-squares are worked in colour 326, green 319, and gold thread; colour 326 is indicated in the ill.u.s.tration by the darkest shade, green 319, by the medium shade, and the gold thread by the lightest shade.

The st.i.tches in the right bottom quarter and top left one, incline upwards from left to right, in the two other quarters they incline the contrary way. The Spanish half-st.i.tch as shown in fig. 309, can only be done over 4 and 2 threads and worked one way, not to and fro.

The general effect is very much heightened by the introduction of one or two rows of st.i.tches, worked in gold thread, into the straight lines on either side of the stripes; all the light parts of the design moreover, should be worked in gold thread.

BORDERS IN SEVERAL SHADES OF ONE COLOUR (figs. 334 and 335). In some beautifully embroidered Chinese hangings, that latterly came under our notice, the princ.i.p.al subject was the figure of a mandarin, in a very richly decorated dress. The pretty pattern, given in fig. 334, was copied from the collar and cuffs of this dress. We should advise working it in several shades of pink or red, or in a single one of the colours indicated above.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 334. BORDER IN SEVERAL SHADES OF ONE COLOUR.

MATERIALS: Coton a tricoter D.M.C Nos. 12 to 20, Coton a broder D.M.C Nos.. 16 to 35 or Coton a repriser No. 12, 25 or 50. COLOURS: Three shades of either Bleu-Indigo, Rouge-Grenat, or Violet-Mauve etc. etc.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 335. BORDER IN SEVERAL SHADES OF ONE COLOUR.]

The border of these hangings furnished us with pattern 335, which will be found to look best, worked in three very distinct shades of blue.

The grotesque heads of animals, and the flowers and branches which break the running pattern, and are a Chinese speciality, distinguish this design from the more conventional patterns of the present day.

We recommend these two pretty patterns, to our readers notice, as likewise adaptable by transposition, to centres, or by repet.i.tion, to broad stripes. With very little trouble they can be converted, into a variety of subjects, such as it is often difficult to find ready made, and exactly suited to the purpose in hand.

BORDER IN GREEK St.i.tCH WITH A FOOTING, COMPOSED OF BRANCHES (fig.

336).--This design can be worked in Greek, Slavonic, Montenegrin, or plaited Algerian st.i.tch. Our ill.u.s.tration worked in Greek st.i.tch, shows how one st.i.tch encroaches upon another, and how the thread is carried from one isolated st.i.tch, to another.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 336. BORDER IN GREEK St.i.tCH WITH A FOOTING, COMPOSED OF BRANCHES.]

It will be found to be an improvement if the st.i.tches are so made as to follow the direction of the lines. The central subject may be repeated two or three times, according to the width of border required. The edging is the same throughout. The use of the 'Penelope mirror' for repeating patterns is described in the concluding chapter of the book.

TABLE-COVER IN GOBELIN AND STROKE St.i.tCH (figs. 337, 338, 339, 340).--This tasteful little table-cover provides excellent practice in working two sided, square st.i.tch. The square represented in fig. 339, forms the middle of the cloth. The Gobelin st.i.tches, set very closely, unite and form a star in the centre of the princ.i.p.al subject. They begin in the corners, in red and continue in green, violet and blue, successively; the little branches in stroke st.i.tch, on each side of the Gobelin st.i.tches, correspond with them in colour, and the small figures, that form the border of the square, may be worked, indiscriminately, in any of the colours used for the Gobelin st.i.tches of the centre. Four branches run inwards from the corners of the square, and four more advance to meet, and pa.s.s them, from the inner angles of the wide border. Four figures, copied from the outside border, fig. 339, and worked in yellow, and the little star, fig. 337, besides the little subjects, borrowed from the outside border, fig. 338, are strewn lightly over the foundation, interspersed between the branches. In fig. 340, nevertheless, which represents the whole table-cover, the edge is formed of the small subjects contained in the wide border and not of the little stars. The Gobelin st.i.tches in the centre of fig. 337, are in dark green, the star st.i.tches and the stroke st.i.tches on the outside in red. The wide border consists of stars, every other row of which, is worked in red; the intermediate rows, successively, in blue, green, and yellow. The corners are composed of four detached stars, framed by a row of stroke st.i.tches, one red and one blue, alternately. This line skirts both sides of the border, and forms the base to the quaint figures, that terminate the design and which can be worked in all the colours used for the inside.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 337. SMALL DETACHED SUBJECT OF FIG. 340.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 338. OUTER BORDER OF FIG. 340.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 339. MIDDLE OF FIG. 340.]

The original of our ill.u.s.tration, which is on fine Rhodes linen, in Coton a broder D.M.C No. 25, is only a small table-cover; for a larger one, if you wish strictly to adhere to the pattern, Java or Ceylon linen will be the best material to select, with Coton a tricoter D.M.C No. 12, for the stroke st.i.tches and Coton a repriser No. 25 for the Gobelin st.i.tches.