Ely Cathedral Part 16

Height of the Lantern itself, from its aperture on the Dome to its vaulted roof 48 0

The whole height from the floor to the centre of the Lantern 142 0

Height of the vaulted roof of the Choir 70 0

Clear diameter of the Octagon, from one pillar to the opposite 65 4

Clear diameter of the Lantern, within 30 0

Length of the Lady Chapel (now Trinity Church) 100 0

Breadth of the same 46 0

Height to its vaulted roof 60 0

EXTERIOR.

The whole length, from west to east 537 0

The length of the great Cross, or Transept, from north to south 190 0

Height of the four stone turrets of the western Tower 215 0

Height of the two Towers of the south-west Transept 120 0

Height of the roof over the Nave 104 0

Height of the Lantern over the Dome 170 7

Height of the eastern front, to the top of the Cross 112 0

Having finished our survey of this n.o.ble edifice, we will proceed to make a few observations on the remains of the monastery, which will form the subject of a separate chapter. In order to bring them all conveniently before the visitor we will retrace our steps for a short distance round the east end of the Cathedral, and commence with the buildings on the north side of the Lady Chapel.

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+The Monastic Buildings.+

_&c. &c._

We will commence our notice of these remains of former ages by observing that as they now, in a great measure, form private residences, they can only be seen by visitors externally; it will be sufficient, therefore, for us to point out the several localities, and state, as far as we are able, their original uses, and present appropriation.

On the north side of the Lady Chapel stands an old square tower, now used as a belfry for the parish of the Holy Trinity, but it is not certain for what purpose it was originally used. Adjoining this is a building recently erected on the site of a former one, comprising a practice-room and school-room for the Choristers, with a residence for the master; beyond this, eastward, is an arched gateway communicating with the public street: this was closed up for many years, but has lately been re-opened; over it is the muniment room of the Dean and Chapter. Next is a residence for one of the Vergers, and beyond that is another dwelling house; the next portion is in a dilapidated state, and at the present time is used as a mason's yard and workshop for carrying on the works in progress: these occupy the site of the ancient +Sacristy+. A little further in the same direction stands the residence of one of the prebendaries, on the site of the ancient +Almonry+; there are in this building some remains of Early English vaulting, and at the east end may be observed the remains of a triplet window of the same period; the middle window has been destroyed by the insertion of a modern window, now blocked up, but the stone work of the side windows can easily be traced.

We next proceed round the east end of the Cathedral to the south end of the Transept, a few yards south of which may be observed a range of Early English arches, each containing a double arch, which is again subdivided, but all have been long blocked up; this was a portion of what was called the "Dark Cloister." To the eastward of these is another range of arches with piers about twelve feet in height, some of which are comparatively perfect; these piers are alternately cylindrical and octagonal, the octagonal columns presenting alternately a side or an angle in front. The arches are profusely enriched with mouldings; the walls above were pierced with a row of small windows with semicircular heads. These piers and arches may be seen on both sides of the road-way, corresponding with each other like the nave of a church, and afford a good example of "highly refined Norman work." A beautiful arch at the end leads to another series, and beyond this, in one of the prebendal houses, is a vaulted room which seems to have been erected about the period of the transition from the Norman style to the Early English.

They form a church-like building, and by some historians have been described as the remains of the Conventual Church erected at the restoration of the monastery by Ethelwold, A.D. 970, and including the ruins of St. Etheldreda's own church, founded A.D. 673. This, if correct, would make it one of the oldest specimens of the Saxon style in the kingdom. This statement has been contradicted by others, and Professor Willis, who had devoted much attention to these buildings, stated that they are the remains of the +Infirmary+ of the monastery, with a chapel attached, and erected many years subsequent to the period mentioned; the portion we have likened to the nave of a church--now affording an approach to several residences--was the body of the Infirmary; the portion east of the arch was no doubt the chapel, and the vaulted room spoken of, the chancel. This statement derives some confirmation from the existence, in a similar position, of the Infirmary at Peterborough, and at some other places. The style of architecture too denotes a period subsequent to the erection of the nave of the Cathedral.

The house on the north side, adjoining the chapel before mentioned, now a prebendal residence, appears to have undergone little alteration since its erection; the parapet, and the almost flat roof covered with lead, appear to be original. This was probably used by the master of the Infirmary as a residence, and a hall to entertain the aged and infirm separately from the sick monks, being near the chapel and the Infirmary. The next house westward, now the residence of a Minor Canon, is said to have been the "Painted Chamber," but to what use it was applied we are not able to say.

The residence on the south side of the Infirmary, opposite to the last mentioned, now the residence of a prebendary, stands on the site of the "Cellarer's Lodging"; and the next house, eastward, also a prebendal residence, on the site of the "Black Hostelry," or near it.

The +Dormitory+ of the monks was generally a long narrow room, standing north and south, near the church, convenient for the monks'

attendance on the nocturnal services; here it was situated near what has been pointed out as part of the "Dark Cloister," not far from the south end of the Transept, and probably the communication was by a pa.s.sage leading to a winding stair still standing in the south-east angle of the Transept.

The +Chapter House+ is believed to have stood between the north end of the Dormitory and the Transept, similar to Peterborough, having its entrance from the east side of the Cloisters; nothing however remains to shew its exact position; both Mr. Bentham and Mr. Millers describe it as having stood on the s.p.a.ce now occupied by the Dean's flower garden, where are some remains of a building in the Norman style, but which has since been stated to have been the Monks' kitchen; but in consequence of the many alterations which have been made at different periods, the demolition and removal of some buildings, and the ruin of others, it is difficult to speak with certainty. The monastery was a large one, and the buildings numerous for the various requirements, of many of which no traces remain, nor is it known where they were situated.

The only part remaining of the +Cloisters+ is the north-east angle, through one part of which is the south entrance to the Cathedral. The inner wall of the north side and part of the east side are yet standing, with the openings partially bricked up, but the roof is gone. These are not the original Cloisters, but occupy nearly the same position as the earlier ones.

The +Refectory+, according to Professor Willis and others, stood at the south side of the Cloisters, on part of the s.p.a.ce now occupied by the Dean's garden, a portion of a very thick wall, in which are some Early English corbels, is still remaining.

Our attention will next be directed to the Deanery, sometime thought to have been the Refectory, but was more probably the +Guest-hall+ for the entertainment of strangers and others visiting the monastery. It is a large building, standing like several others upon vaults, and appears to have been built in the latter part of the thirteenth century; it has, however, undergone considerable alterations at different times, and now presents but few remains of that period, although the walls, b.u.t.tresses, and vaults bear strong characteristics of it. This formed the northern side of a small court, around which were buildings forming the residence of the priors of the monastery, of which also the next house, now the residence of a prebendary, formed a part; the vaulting of this is very ancient, probably in the early part of the Norman era, but the superstructure is of a later period. There is a fine fourteenth-century fire place in the house.

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Adjoining this house, at the south-west corner, next the garden, stands a building generally known as "+Prior Crauden's Chapel+,"

having been founded by John de Crauden, prior of Ely (1321-1341), as a private chapel attached to his residence, and built under the direction of Alan de Walsingham, the skilful architect of the Octagon.

It is most interesting for the rich remains of architectural beauty which it displays. "It is," says Mr. Rickman, "one of the most curious and valuable Decorated remains in the kingdom; its ornaments are of the best character, and well executed, and the whole design is of great excellence." It belongs to the Deanery, but was for many years used in connection with the adjoining house, having been converted into three rooms by floors inserted; these floors have been removed, and the chapel in some degree restored; some of the windows which had been closed have been re-opened, and the eastern one filled with stained gla.s.s, the gift of Mrs. Smart. It is now used as a private chapel for the Grammar School.

The Chapel stands upon a vault, the floor of which is nearly upon a level with the surrounding ground; the vault has a groined ceiling supported by plain columns, and the original entrance was directly under the west window of the Chapel, but is now on the north side. The entrance to the chapel is by a staircase which winds within the b.u.t.tress at the north-west angle. The length is divided into four compartments by cl.u.s.tered columns, from the tops of which sprung the ribs of the vaulting. The first compartment is plain, and was probably the ante-chapel: the second is ornamented with a double niche, richly decorated with small columns, pinnacles, crockets, &c.; in the lower niche the wall is pierced for a small window; the upper one probably contained a figure: the third and fourth compartments have long pointed windows, separated into two lights by a mullion. The east end has ornamented niches in the angles, it projects a little beyond the compartments, forming a recess, in which is the large window, divided into five lights, with elaborate tracery. The floor is elevated at the east end for the altar, and is formed of mosaic tiles; upon the raised portion is represented the Fall of man, and the remainder is ornamented with various other figures and devices; some portions are nearly perfect, but the colouring is greatly faded. Some remains of fresco painting were discovered on the walls when the restorations were in progress, and probably the chapel had originally been richly embellished with colours and gilding, in the style of the period in which it was built.

We have now an opportunity of glancing at some of the other portions of the monastic buildings, which formerly extended from the Prior's Lodge to the gateway, but are now somewhat short of it, as a garden intervenes.

The first, adjoining the Deanery, formerly the Registry, but originally part of the residence of the former priors, was called "+The Lodge+," and contained the great hall, named "The Fair Hall,"

the high sharp-pointed windows of which still remain in the first story; from the corner of this hall a gallery or pa.s.sage led to the prior's chapel just mentioned. This formed the western side of the small court before spoken of, around which the residence of the priors was built. This is now the residence of the Rev. R. Winkfield, Head Master of the Grammar School, and the adjoining house, formerly the school house, is used as a dormitory, &c. for the pupils. Next to this is the residence of the Rev. W.E. d.i.c.kson, Minor Canon and Precentor, which brings us to the end of this series of the buildings.

These all stand upon vaults or crypts, which were probably used as cellars or store-houses, and the superstructure as lodgings for guests of the prior, being near his residence; these buildings formed the western side of the monastery, and were built about 1180, but raised and altered by Alan de Walsingham, about 1320.

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This brings us in our progress to the great gate of the monastery, called "+Ely Porta+," or more frequently, the "Porter's Lodge." It is a large and ma.s.sive pile, having square towers at the angles, and was begun by Prior Buckton shortly before his death in 1397, and probably finished by his successor, Walpol, as it is sometimes spoken of as "Walpol's Gate." On the eastern side the opening is a single arch of great span, but on the western side there are two, a large one--but smaller than that on the eastern side--for carriages, and a still smaller one for foot pa.s.sengers. The north end of the building is occupied as the residence of the Porter, who is also a Verger of the Cathedral; the south end with the rooms above, including a large one over the archway, is used for the Cathedral Grammar School, or +King's School+, founded in 1541, by Henry VIII., and is under the control of the Dean and Chapter. The foundation is for twenty-four boys, who are elected without restriction as to birth or residence, and are ent.i.tled to some privileges in reduction of school fees. The school has lately been re-modelled by the Dean and Chapter, in order to bring it up to the requirements of the age, and extensive alterations have been made to provide accommodation for boarders.[54] The school is not restricted to the foundation boys, but is open to all who are prepared to accede to the terms, and is now in a flourishing condition.

[Footnote 54: We understand it is intended to make some further alterations, and to build a new "hostel," on a plot of ground nearly opposite the gateway on the western side, forming a block of buildings to include accommodation for sixty boys, with masters' and servants'

offices, as well as the dormitories, studies, and day rooms for the boys.]

We will now cast our eyes over the Park, which was much improved by the exertions of Dean Peac.o.c.k; it was formerly divided into several inclosures by walls or hedges, but is now in two pieces, separated by iron fencing, and has been planted in various parts with ornamental trees; a pathway runs round the south-eastern portion, and another across it, and by a pair of iron gates (closed at night) a communication is formed with a street at the lower part of the city.

On the south side is an artificial mound generally called "Cherry Hill," the origin of which is uncertain; but it was probably occupied by a mill for the use of the monastery; Mr. Millers thought it once formed the site of a castle erected for the defence of the monastery, which in early times experienced some of the vicissitudes of war; it is covered with trees and shrubs, and a winding path leads to the top, where there is a kind of summer-house. A good view of the adjacent country may be had from the summit, particularly towards the east, south, and west.

From the foot of this hill, extending to some length westward, is a range of buildings used in part as stables and coach-houses, and partly as workshops and store-houses for stone and materials required for the repair of the Cathedral and buildings; this was the small grange within the precincts, a larger one stood more to the westward, outside the monastery.

We will pa.s.s through the gateway and examine its western front which remains nearly in its original state; there are some niches and canopies, and several shields but their bearings are nearly all obliterated. The gates are closed at night.

While here we may notice at a short distance to the left, at the south-west corner of the open s.p.a.ce, the new Theological College, designed for candidates for Holy Orders desirous of religious preparation, theological instruction, and pastoral training; and is open to students who have graduated at one of the Universities: of which the Rev. Dr. Luck.o.c.k, Canon of the Cathedral, is princ.i.p.al. The building is of red brick with stone dressings, and contains chapel, lecture room, studies and dormitories for the accommodation of twelve students, with the usual offices.

Our course will now take us northwards towards the Cathedral, outside the western boundary of the monastery, thus giving the opportunity of observing the other side of the buildings we noticed after Prior Crauden's chapel: that they are of great antiquity is evident by the flat Norman b.u.t.tresses on part of the western wall; but they have at various times undergone considerable alterations which have done much to obliterate their original appearance, and alter the character of the buildings. We first pa.s.s the house occupied by the Rev. W.E.