Elements of Plumbing Part 9

_Tenth_, do not handle finished work.

_Eleventh_, clean and finish the work neatly.

THE PRACTICAL USE OF THE PRECEDING EXERCISES

In the foregoing exercises, I have confined myself to the actual work of making the various joints. Now I will explain the practical use of them.

SOLDERING IRON.--The soldering iron is a tool that is used in work that requires heat to fuse solder and the parts to be united. Every plumber should have at least two irons in his kit.

THE CUP JOINT.--While the cup joint is not employed to any great extent in modern plumbing, yet it has its use in the installation of some fixtures. Lavatories, bath and toilets are sometimes connected with a short piece of lead on the supply. The tail pieces on the faucets can be soldered on the lead by means of a cup joint.

A cup joint well made with a deep cup and the solder well fused is as strong as a wiped joint in a place of this kind. The evil of the cup joint is that some mechanics will only fuse the surface and leave the deep cup only filled with solder and not fused. This makes a tight joint, but extremely weak. On tin-lined pipe and block-tin pipe the cup joint is commonly used. When making a cup joint on block-tin pipe the soldering iron must not touch the pipe and fine solder should be used. When tin-lined pipe is being soldered, the tin lining must not be melted.

OVERCAST JOINT.--The overcast joint is not commonly used, but when there is considerable lead work to do the plumber finds it very handy in places where a wiped joint would take up too much room. We use it for an exercise for the reason that it teaches the beginner very rapidly the use and control of the soldering iron.

FLAT SEAMS.--These seams are used in the construction of roof flashers, tanks (Sec. 33, Chapter XVIII) and lead safe wastes (Sec.

27, plumbing code). A hatchet iron is sometimes used on these seams.

WIPING CLOTHS.--The wiping cloths made of whalebone ticking make good, serviceable, and lasting cloths. Oil only should be used to break the cloth in. Moleskin cloths are very good, but they are very hard to get and cost considerably more. A plumber should always keep a good supply of ticking cloths on hand. The cloths are used only for wiping.

1/2-INCH ROUND JOINT.--This joint is the one most often required in actual practice. It serves to connect two pieces of lead pipe of the same or different diameters. It is also used to connect lead and other materials of which pipe is made. The workman, when he gets out on the job, finds that his work cannot be supported for wiping in such an easy and convenient position as ill.u.s.trated in the exercises. It will be necessary to wipe the joint at almost every conceivable angle and position. The workman must employ his ingenuity to overcome any difficulties that may arise. Any draught of air should be avoided as it will make the solder cool quickly.

2-INCH BRa.s.s FERRULE.--When it is found necessary to connect cast-iron and lead pipe, it is done by means of a bra.s.s ferrule wiped on the lead pipe. This joint is a very common joint and is found on sink, tray, and bath connections, as well as in many other connections that have lead and cast-iron pipes for wastes.

4-INCH BRa.s.s FERRULE.--The 4-inch bra.s.s ferrule wiped on lead pipe is found under almost every closet. There is generally a piece of lead connecting the toilet with the soil pipe. Therefore, a bra.s.s ferrule is wiped on the lead and the ferrule connected with the soil pipe. This joint is also found on rain leader connections near the roof, connecting the gutter with the rain leader stack.

STOP c.o.c.k.--When a shut-off is required in a line of lead water pipe, these joints are used. Where it is necessary to joint lead and bra.s.s, this joint is required. The art of heat control over the lead and the bra.s.s is the essential point in these joints.

BRANCH JOINTS 5/8 AND 1/2 INCHES.--Where it is found necessary to take a branch from a water pipe, this joint is used at the connection. In practice, this joint may have to be wiped in positions that are rather difficult to reach, so the wiping of joints in the positions called for in the exercises is exceedingly good practice.

BRANCH JOINTS 1-1/2 INCHES.--These joints are very common and are found on waste and vent pipes. They are also found on urinal flush-pipe connections where the branch often is bra.s.s and the run lead.

BIB.--When lead supplies are run directly to the bib on a sink, this joint is necessary. It becomes necessary to wipe in a piece of bra.s.s for a bra.s.s-pipe connection from a lead pipe, in which case this joint is called for.

THE DRUM TRAP.--The drum trap is used under sinks, baths, showers, and trays.

CHAPTER VII

LAYING TERRA-COTTA AND MAKING CONNECTIONS TO PUBLIC SEWERS. WATER CONNECTIONS TO MAINS IN STREETS

TERRA-COTTA PIPE

One of the first pieces of work which a plumber is called upon to do, when building operations commence, is to run in the terra-cotta sewer from the street sewer into the foundation wall.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 35.--Connection of house sewer to main sewer.]

When the street sewer is laid, Y-branches are left every few feet.

A record of the branches and their distance from the manhole is kept generally in the Department of Sewers or Public Works.

Therefore, the exact measurement of any branch can be obtained and the branch found by digging down to the depth of the sewer. A branch should be chosen so that the pipe can be laid with a pitch, the same way as the main sewer pitches. This can be done by getting the measurements of two of these branches and choosing the one that will serve best. When there is a brick sewer in the street and no branches left out, the sewer must be tapped wherever the house sewer requires it (see Fig. 35).

DIGGING TRENCHES.--After the measurements and location of the house sewer and sewer branches are properly located, the digging of the trench is started. The methods employed to dig the trench vary according to the nature of the ground, that is, whether it is sand, rock, or wet ground. A line should be struck from sewer to foundation wall to insure a straight trench.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 36.--Laying of plank for trench dug in sandy ground.]

SANDY GROUND.--If the ground is sandy, the sides of the trench will have to be sheathed or planked and the planks braced so as to prevent the bank caving in. As the trench is dug deeper, the planks are driven down. When the trench is very deep, a second row of planking is necessary. The planks must be kept well down to the bottom of the trench and close together, otherwise the sand will run in. It is well to test the planking as progress is made by tamping the sand on the bank side of the planks.

GRAVEL.--Where the ground is mostly gravel and well packed, the above method of planking is unnecessary. The bank should have a few stringers and braces to support it. When only a few planks are used the term "corduroy the bank" is used (see Fig. 37).

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 37.--Arrangement of plank for gravel.]

ROCK.--Where rock is encountered, blasting is resorted to. The plumber should not attempt to handle a job requiring the use of powder. It is dangerous in the hands of a person not used to handling it and the work should be sublet.

A sketch of the two methods above for planking trenches is given and a little study will make them clear.

LAYING OF PIPE

The pipe should be laid on the bottom of the trench to a pitch of at least 1/4 inch per foot fall. In laying, the start should be made at the street sewer with hubs of pipe toward the building. The trench should be dug within a few inches of the bottom of the pipe, then as the pipe is laid the exact depth is dug out, the surplus dirt being thrown on the pipe already laid. The body length of pipe should be on solid foundation. A s.p.a.ce dug out for each hub as shown in Fig. 38 allows for this, also allows for the proper cementing of joints. To get the proper pitch of pipe, take for example 1/4 inch per foot, a level 2 feet long with a piece of wood or metal on one end 1/2 inch thick will answer. The end with the 1/2-inch piece on should be on the lower hub and the other end resting on the hub of the pipe about to be put in place. When the bubble shows level, then the pipe has the 1/4-inch fall per foot.

If a tile trap is used, it should be laid level, otherwise the seal will be weakened or entirely broken.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 38.--Laying terra-cotta pipe.]

CUTTING.--The cutting of tile is not difficult, but must be done carefully or the pipe will crack or a piece will be broken out, thus making the pipe worthless. To cut tile or terra-cotta pipe, stand the pipe on end with the hub down, fill the pipe with sand to the point of cutting. With a sharp chisel and hammer cut around the pipe two or three times and the pipe will crack around practically straight.

CEMENTING.--If the pipe is free from cracks, the only possible way roots can get into the inside of terra-cotta pipe is through the cement joint. There are two ways of making these joints. Both ways are explained below and are used today on terra-cotta work.

_First._--The bottom of the hub of pipe in place is filled with cement and the straight end of the next piece of pipe is laid in place, then more cement is placed into the hub until the s.p.a.ce between the hub and the pipe is filled. In a trench, a trowel is rather unhandy to work with, while the hands can be used to better advantage. The cement can be forced into place with the hands and then surfaced with a trowel. The rest of the operation is to swab out the inside joint to remove any cement that perchance was forced through the joint (see Fig. 39). The cement used should be 1/2 cement and 1/2 clean sharp sand.

_Second._--Half of the s.p.a.ce between the hub and the pipe is first packed with oak.u.m and then the other half filled with cement of the same proportions as that used above.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 39.--Showing use of the swab.]

LAYING PIPE IN TUNNELS

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 40.--Pushing pipe through tunnel.]

If the pipe must be run through a tunnel and there are perhaps three or four joints that cannot be reached, they should be put into place as follows: The pipe should be laid in the trench from the sewer in the street as far as the tunnel, then start at the other end of the tunnel. Lay the first piece of pipe on a board, lengthwise with the board, nail two cleats in the shape of a > (Fig. 40) for the pipe to rest in; push this pipe and board into the tunnel and then cement into its hub a second piece; push the two pieces in 2 feet, cement a third length into the second piece and push the three pieces along 2 feet. A workman can be on the sewer side of the tunnel and receive the end of the pipe as it is pushed through the tunnel, and steer the pipe into the hub. The joints in the tunnel will not be as secure as those outside. This explains how pipe is run through a tunnel.

CONNECTING.--The proper method of connecting the house sewer with the street sewer is shown in Fig. 35. The connection should be made above the spring of the arch. The pipe should extend well into the sewer so the sewage will discharge into water and not drop on sides.

INSERTING.--To insert a tee in a line of pipe already laid, pursue the following method (see Fig. 41): Cut or break out one joint, preserve the bottom of the hub of pipe that is in. Cut away the top of the hub on the pipe to be inserted, then place the pipe in position and turn around until the part of the hub on the piece inserted is on the bottom. The bottom part of the pipes now will have a hub to receive the cement. The top part will have to be cemented carefully, as it is within easy access. This can be done without difficulty.

[Ill.u.s.tration: FIG. 41.--Inserting length of pipe.]