D.I.Y. Delicious_ Recipes And Ideas For Simple Food From Scratch Part 4

Artichoke Soup with Creme Fraiche [image]

Once the artichokes are prepped, this creamy soup is easy and quick to make. A dollop of creme fraiche and a sprinkling of dill nicely balance the soup's richness. You can use yogurt if you don't have creme fraiche. I choose small (not baby) or medium artichokes for this. They're easier to prepare before they've had a chance to develop much of a choke or pokey thorns. Use a serrated knife to cut the tops off the artichokes. It's much safer than a chef's knife because it won't become dull and slip.

TIME REQUIRED: about 1 hour active; 30 minutes pa.s.sive (excluding creme fraiche preparation) about 1 hour active; 30 minutes pa.s.sive (excluding creme fraiche preparation) YIELD: 4 servings 4 servings 1 lemon2 pounds artichokes (about 6 medium)1 quart vegetable or chicken broth, or whey from drained cheese whey from drained cheese1 tablespoon olive oil1 large leek, sliced and rinsed well2 celery ribs, diced4 to 5 garlic cloves, finely chopped2 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flourSaltFreshly ground black pepperCreme Fraiche for garnish for garnishChopped fresh chive or chive flowers for garnish Ready a large bowl of water and squeeze half of the lemon into it. Keep the other lemon half handy. Using a serrated knife, cut off the top 1 inch of the artichokes (work on one artichoke at a time, rubbing the cut edges with lemon as you go to prevent browning). Cut off the bottom inch of the stems. Starting at the bottom of each choke, peel back each leaf and snap it off wherever it gives. Continue working your way up to the top of each artichoke, until the remaining leaves are pale green and yellow, with no dark green tips. Using a paring knife, whittle away the dark green parts of the stem, working your way up and tr.i.m.m.i.n.g the dark green bottom of each artichoke, continuing to rub with lemon as you work. Cut each artichoke into quarters and sc.r.a.pe out the furry chokes with a stainless-steel spoon. Slice each quarter into -inch-thick slices and drop them into the lemon water.

In a medium saucepan over medium heat, warm the broth to a simmer.

In a large soup pot over medium heat, warm the oil. Add the leek, celery, and garlic and cook gently until soft and fragrant, about 10 minutes. Don't let the vegetables brown. Add the flour and stir for 2 minutes, without letting it brown. Slowly whisk in the warm broth and bring to a simmer. Drain the artichokes well and add them to the pot along with a little salt and pepper. Return to a simmer, lower the heat, and cover partially. Let the soup cook until the artichokes are tender, about 30 minutes.

Let the soup cool slightly and then transfer it to a blender or food processor to puree. Process in batches to avoid splattering. Return the pureed soup to the pot, warm it up, and taste for salt and pepper. Serve in warmed bowls garnished with creme fraiche and chopped chive or chive flowers. The soup can be made 2 to 3 days ahead and stored, covered, in the refrigerator.

TIP: You can use this exact method and similar proportions to make any kind of pureed vegetable soup. Simply subst.i.tute the artichokes with potatoes, asparagus, sweet potatoes, broccoli, carrots, turnips, or cauliflower. You may need to adjust the amount of liquid slightly and change up the herbs and garnishes to your taste You can use this exact method and similar proportions to make any kind of pureed vegetable soup. Simply subst.i.tute the artichokes with potatoes, asparagus, sweet potatoes, broccoli, carrots, turnips, or cauliflower. You may need to adjust the amount of liquid slightly and change up the herbs and garnishes to your taste.

Cultured b.u.t.ter Homemade cultured b.u.t.ter is a revelation. If you've ever had b.u.t.ter in France that knocked your socks off, it was probably cultured. Culturing (simply a slight souring) gives the b.u.t.ter a rich, cheesy-in-a-good-way taste that is tangy and complex with layers of flavor. And it's so easy to make. Culturing b.u.t.ter uses the same technique as creme fraiche, and then you simply chill and whip your creme fraiche. For very little effort, you'll be rewarded with a superior product, for much less money than you'd spend at a specialty store. It's also great fun to make flavored b.u.t.ters out of your own cultured b.u.t.ter. Add flaky sea salt and enjoy with bread and radishes; or add chopped anchovies and garlic to flavor grilled fish, roasted vegetables, or beans. Stirring in dried lavender makes a wonderful b.u.t.ter for biscuits and m.u.f.fins. While the b.u.t.ter is still soft, simply work the flavorings in to your taste. Making small batches of b.u.t.ter is best because homemade b.u.t.ter doesn't keep as long as store-bought, though it does freeze well. This recipe can be scaled up, but a larger batch will take longer to whip.

TIME REQUIRED: 20 to 25minutes active (excluding creme fraiche preparation) 20 to 25minutes active (excluding creme fraiche preparation) YIELD: about 4 ounces about 4 ounces 3 cups chilled Creme Fraiche Creme FraicheSalt and flavorings (optional; see headnote) Pour the creme fraiche into a medium bowl and, using a handheld mixer on medium-low speed, begin whipping the creme fraiche as if you were making whipped cream. Stop every now and then to sc.r.a.pe down the sides of the bowl with a spatula. As the creme fraiche thickens, increase the speed to medium-high. When it's just past the stage of a stiff whipped cream, the creme fraiche will become yellow and separate into clumps. At this point, decrease the speed to medium-low or you run the risk of spraying b.u.t.termilk all over. After this point, the b.u.t.ter will quickly solidify and separate fully from the b.u.t.termilk. The whole process takes 8 to 10 minutes. When the b.u.t.ter seems to have given off all the b.u.t.termilk it is going to, pour off the b.u.t.termilk and save it. (It's truly delicious, and it's also great to use for biscuits or Aunt Mil's Jam-Filled Sugar Cookies Aunt Mil's Jam-Filled Sugar Cookies.) Push the b.u.t.ter against the sides of the bowl with a flexible spatula to squeeze out as much of the b.u.t.termilk as possible.

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Pour clean, cool water into the bowl and work it around and into the b.u.t.ter with a spatula. Pour off the water. Wash the b.u.t.ter two or three times until the water runs clear. This step is a must, as unwashed b.u.t.ter will spoil quickly.

Transfer the washed b.u.t.ter to a sheet of parchment and work it for a minute or so with the spatula to press out any additional water. Pat dry and then use the spatula to work in any salt and flavorings. Transfer to a clean dish, cover, and refrigerate for up to 5 days. You must keep your homemade b.u.t.ter refrigerated or frozen, as it is more perishable than store-bought.

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Mascarpone Cheese Mascarpone is a sweet, luscious dairy product that I fondly think of as a cross between whipped cream and b.u.t.ter. It's the traditional creamy ingredient in tiramisu. You can create easy desserts with nothing but mascarpone and seasonal fresh fruit. One of my favorite combinations is mascarpone and dates drizzled with honey. You can blend mascarpone with maple syrup and cinnamon and serve over Pain Perdu for breakfast or dessert. It's simple to make using one of two methods: Follow the recipe below using cream of tartar, or simply drain your own Creme Fraiche for a tangier version. Truthfully, I like the sweeter version a little better, but I love the idea of repurposing creme fraiche. You need about two days advance planning for the draining and setting-up process.

TIME REQUIRED: 15 minutes active; 32 to 36 hours pa.s.sive 15 minutes active; 32 to 36 hours pa.s.sive YIELD: about 2 cups or about 1 pounds about 2 cups or about 1 pounds 3 cups heavy cream (not ultra-pasteurized; see Creme Fraiche Creme Fraiche)1 cup half-and-half teaspoon cream of tartar Pour the heavy cream and half-and-half into the top half of a double boiler. Over medium-low heat, slowly warm the mixture to 185 degrees F, stirring occasionally. When the mixture comes to temperature, sprinkle the cream of tartar over the surface and stir it in. The mixture should thicken immediately, but it won't form large, visible curds. Maintain the temperature for 5 minutes, without stirring or allowing it to boil. Let cool slightly, transfer the mixture to a nonreactive gla.s.s or ceramic bowl, and cover. Refrigerate for 8 to 12 hours, or overnight.

Line a strainer with a coffee filter or clean towel and place it over a bowl. Transfer the mascarpone to the strainer; it should be rather thick, but pourable. Cover the bowl and set in the refrigerator to drain for 24 hours. The mascarpone is now ready to use and should be enjoyed within 5 to 7 days. Transfer it to a container, cover, and refrigerate.

Pain Perdu with Maple-Cinnamon Mascarpone French pain perdu is translated literally to "lost bread," which is so much more romantic than American "French toast." Such a s.e.xy term befits this extremely decadent way to use leftover bread. Serving it with homemade Mascarpone Cheese decked out with maple syrup and cinnamon elevates it to the category of special treat. Add a little fresh fruit if you like. It's great for breakfast (especially if you plan on going back to bed!) and dessert, too.

TIME REQUIRED: 30 minutes active; 1 hour pa.s.sive (excluding bread, b.u.t.ter, and mascarpone preparation) 30 minutes active; 1 hour pa.s.sive (excluding bread, b.u.t.ter, and mascarpone preparation) YIELD: 2 breakfast servings; 4 dessert servings 2 breakfast servings; 4 dessert servings cup whole milk cup heavy cream cup sugar1 large egg, beaten teaspoon vanilla extract4 thick slices day-old Half-Wheat Sourdough Bread Half-Wheat Sourdough Bread or or Sourdough Cornmeal-Pumpkin Seed Bread Sourdough Cornmeal-Pumpkin Seed Bread or purchased bread or purchased bread2 tablespoons Cultured b.u.t.ter Cultured b.u.t.ter or store-bought b.u.t.ter or store-bought b.u.t.ter cup Mascarpone Cheese2 teaspoons maple syrup teaspoon ground cinnamonFresh fruit (optional) In a shallow ca.s.serole, whisk together the milk, cream, sugar, egg, and vanilla until the sugar is dissolved. Add the bread, arranging it in a single layer. Let the bread sit, turning occasionally, until it absorbs as much of the custard as it will hold, about 1 hour.

In a large, cast-iron skillet over medium heat, melt the b.u.t.ter. When the pan is hot and sizzling, but not smoking, add the custard-soaked bread slices. Cook on each side until dark brown on the outside and custardy but set on the inside, about 5 minutes per side. Remove from the pan and blot on paper towels.

Whisk together the mascarpone, maple syrup, and cinnamon and serve on top of the warm pain perdu, with fresh fruit, if desired.

Chapter Four.

Breads, Cereals, and Grains Corn TortillasTips for Tortilla SuccessPinto Bean and Sweet Potato Enchiladas with All-Purpose Red Chili SauceChilaquilesFlour TortillasZucchini and Mushroom Quesadilla.s.sourdough StarterHow to Tell if Your Starter is Ready to Bake WithHalf-Wheat Sourdough BreadSourdough Feeding and Bread Baking TimelineEduardo Morell's Bread-It's Got SoulSandwich Inspiration GuideSourdough Cornmeal-Pumpkin Seed BreadSourdough Buckwheat Pancakes with Caramelized Apples and Creme FraicheSourdough Pizza CrustGuide to Pizzas Through the SeasonsFresh PastaFresh Pasta with Cabbage, Bacon, Sage, and Brown b.u.t.terWhole-Wheat Sesame CrackersCornmeal, Parmesan, and Poppy Seed CrackersGranola Your WayMix-and-Match Guide to Custom GranolaWhole-Grain PorridgesTwo Porridge RecipesMix-and-Match Guide to Porridge Add-ins SOCIETIES FROM PRIMITIVE TIMES onward have turned whole grains into flours and fermented them to make bread, before bread machines and stand-up mixers were even invented. Whole grains cooked into nourishing porridges have been staples in diets worldwide. Grocery store breads and crackers and most breakfast cereals are heavily processed, over-packaged, and filled with chemicals and additives. Our food system has taken simple foods and made them complicated, less tasty, and certainly less healthful than they once were. If our ancestors could bake breads, tortillas, and other flatbreads, we certainly can in our well-equipped modern kitchens.

You don't really need a lot of the specialized equipment sold in kitchen stores. In this chapter, you'll learn how to start a sourdough sponge from scratch, maintain it, and use it for a variety of breads, pancakes, and pizza. Create a customized granola that you'll look forward to eating for breakfast every day. Enhance your meals with freshly made tortillas. Make better crackers than you could ever buy-for pennies.

Easy recipes for using your tortillas in enchiladas, quesadillas, and chilaquiles; sandwich ideas for your home-baked bread; seasonal pizza toppings; and hot cereals with alternative whole grains round out the chapter.

Corn Tortillas [image]

The traditional from-scratch way to make tortillas is to buy field corn, soak it in slaked lime, wash it thoroughly, and then grind it by hand into fresh masa. In an effort to make this recipe accessible to everyone, I've called for masa harina. It will yield tortillas that are vastly superior to grocery store tortillas for relatively little work. Masa harina is a flour made from dried masa. You can sometimes buy fresh masa made the traditional way from Latin American grocery stores. If you find fresh masa, make sure you get it plain, not preparada, which is for tamales. Also, check if it was made from masa harina. If it was, don't bother. You may as well make your own. The Maseca brand is widely available and produces consistently good tortillas. I wish I could find a good organic or local brand of masa harina. I've tried a few other types and keep coming back to Maseca for its dependability.

You will need a tortilla press and a heavy cast-iron skillet or comal. The metal tortilla presses are lightweight and affordable. Look in a Latin American grocery store or see our sources sources. Be sure to read the Tips for Tortilla Success Tips for Tortilla Success before starting before starting.

TIME REQUIRED: about 45 minutes active about 45 minutes active YIELD: twelve 6-inch tortillas twelve 6-inch tortillas 1 cups masa harina teaspoon kosher salt In a medium bowl, mix together the masa harina and salt. Add 1 cup of warm water and begin mixing with your hands. The dough should be moist and smooth, like Play-Doh. It should stick together easily when pressed but not be too wet. Add more water as needed, 1 tablespoon at a time.

Form the dough into 12 equal b.a.l.l.s, about 1 ounce each. Lay them on a plate and cover them with a damp towel.

Get your tortilla press ready. Heat a cast-iron skillet or comal over medium-high heat. Pick up one of the masa b.a.l.l.s and press it between your palms to flatten it slightly. Place it in the tortilla press between the plastic. Press the tortilla firmly, but not as far as the press will go. You will need to experiment with the proper thickness. Overly thick tortillas are harder to work with and can overpower a dish. Overly thin tortillas are difficult to peel off the plastic. The tortilla should be about 6 inches in diameter.

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Gently peel the tortilla off the plastic and lay it carefully in the hot pan with a sweeping motion of the hand. Cook it for 45 seconds to 1 minute, and then flip it over with a spatula. It should have small brown spots and look dry, but not cracked. Cook the second side for 30 to 45 seconds. Flip again and lightly tap the surface of the tortilla all over 4 or 5 times with your fingertips. This creates tiny pockets that make for lighter, more delicious tortillas. Cook for 15 seconds more. Turn again and tap the other side, cooking for another 15 seconds. The tortilla should smell like toasty corn and have a dull surface. Nestle each tortilla in a clean towel-lined basket to keep warm. You should be able to get a rhythm going in which you are forming one tortilla while cooking another. You may need to adjust the heat under the skillet, now and then, while you work. Use the tortillas immediately or let them cool, wrap well, and refrigerate for up to 1 week, or freeze for 2 months.

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Tips for Tortilla Success I use the method I learned from the Oaxacan women I worked with at the Jimtown Store in Healdsburg, California. They knew tricks that you won't find on a bag of masa harina.

Please note that when adding water, the amount will vary with the weather conditions. I usually find that the package instructions don't call for enough water. I end up using more or less equal parts water and masa harina.

Place a small bowl of water nearby to dip your hands in as you form the tortillas. It helps keep the masa from sticking and is a good way to work more water into the dough if it is too dry.

Don't use plastic wrap to line your tortilla press, it's too thin and difficult to work with. Use a produce bag or resealable bag, cut into one large sheet. It can be wiped off and reused until it tears.

Pinto Bean and Sweet Potato Enchiladas with All-Purpose Red Chili Sauce This is a good use for your homemade Corn Tortillas and All-Purpose Red Chili Sauce. This dish can easily be made vegan if you omit the cheese garnish. You can also vary the vegetables however you like, using whatever's in season. Corn, summer or winter squash, and greens with cheese or potatoes are all good candidates. Of course, you can always go traditional with shredded chicken or leftover Texas-Style Barbecued Brisket Texas-Style Barbecued Brisket.

TIME REQUIRED: 30 minutes active; 40 minutes pa.s.sive (excluding sauce, tortillas, cheese, and bean preparation) 30 minutes active; 40 minutes pa.s.sive (excluding sauce, tortillas, cheese, and bean preparation) YIELD: 4 to 6 servings 4 to 6 servings 1 pound deep-orange sweet potatoes (such as Garnet), peeled and cut into -inch pieces2 tablespoons olive oil teaspoon salt teaspoon whole c.u.min seeds1 recipe All-Purpose Red Chili All-Purpose Red Chili2 teaspoons vegetable oil12 Corn Tortillas Corn TortillasAbout 1 cup cooked pinto beans, drained (see bean cooking tips bean cooking tips)Fresh Whole-Milk Soft Cheese or store-bought feta or queso fresco for garnish (optional) or store-bought feta or queso fresco for garnish (optional)Fresh cilantro leaves for garnish Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.

In a small bowl, toss the sweet potatoes with the olive oil, salt, and c.u.min. Lay them out in a single layer on a baking sheet and roast until browned and soft, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove from the oven and set aside. Leave the oven on.

Ladle[image] cup of the chili sauce into the bottom of a ca.s.serole dish large enough to accommodate 12 enchiladas (a 9-by-13-inch dish works well). cup of the chili sauce into the bottom of a ca.s.serole dish large enough to accommodate 12 enchiladas (a 9-by-13-inch dish works well).

In a small, heavy skillet over medium-low heat, warm about teaspoon of the vegetable oil. Add the tortillas one at a time, turning once to warm and soften them so they are pliable enough to roll, adding more oil as needed. If you are using freshly made, still-warm tortillas, you can skip this step.

Fill each tortilla with 1 heaping tablespoon of beans and 1 heaping tablespoon of sweet potato cubes. Roll and transfer it to the ca.s.serole dish, arranging each enchilada, seam-side down, on top of the sauce in a single layer. Pour the remaining sauce over the enchiladas, covering them completely and distributing it evenly. You may have leftover sweet potatoes. Sprinkle them over the top of the enchiladas or reserve them for use in one of the grain salads in the Great Salad Toss-Up Guide Great Salad Toss-Up Guide. Cover the ca.s.serole with aluminum foil and bake until warmed through, 10 to 15 minutes.

Garnish each serving with fresh cheese (if using) and cilantro leaves.

Chilaquiles Every culture has devised ways to use leftover staple grain products, as in the Pain Perdu with Maple-Cinnamon Mascarpone Pain Perdu with Maple-Cinnamon Mascarpone. In Italy, there are innumerable bread salads and soups; in Asia, it's fried rice; in Mexico, it's chilaquiles, usually served for breakfast. If you should find yourself in the enviable position of having leftover Corn Tortillas, there is no better use for them than this. This recipe provides basic quant.i.ties and technique, but it is within the spirit of the dish to vary it by using up little bits of odds and ends you have in your refrigerator, like cooked beans, leftover Mustard and BourbonGlazed Pork Roast Mustard and BourbonGlazed Pork Roast, or Texas-Style Barbecued Brisket Texas-Style Barbecued Brisket. You can also drizzle a little Creme Fraiche Creme Fraiche on the Chilaquiles as a garnish. Of course, you can also make this with store-bought tortillas, but the quant.i.ties are slightly different, as commercial tortillas are generally larger. These are lovely with on the Chilaquiles as a garnish. Of course, you can also make this with store-bought tortillas, but the quant.i.ties are slightly different, as commercial tortillas are generally larger. These are lovely with Hibiscus Tea Hibiscus Tea or or Horchata Horchata.

TIME REQUIRED: 10 minutes active (excluding tortillas, salsa, and cheese preparation) 10 minutes active (excluding tortillas, salsa, and cheese preparation) YIELD: 4 to 6 servings 4 to 6 servings 8 large eggsSaltFreshly ground black pepper12 Corn Tortillas Corn Tortillas, or 8 store-bought corn tortillas[image] cup vegetable oil, plus cup vegetable oil, plus1 teaspoon red onion, thinly sliced2 cups Simple Tomato Salsa Simple Tomato Salsa or or Avocado-Tomatillo Salsa Avocado-Tomatillo Salsa2 to 3 ounces Fresh Whole-Milk Soft Cheese Fresh Whole-Milk Soft Cheese or store-bought feta or queso fresco for garnish or store-bought feta or queso fresco for garnishFresh cilantro sprigs for garnish In a large bowl, beat the eggs until smooth and add about teaspoon salt and teaspoon pepper.

Stack the tortillas three or four high, and cut them into six to eight wedges.

In a large cast-iron skillet over medium heat, warm the[image] cup of the oil. Add the onion, and cook, stirring, until it begins to soften and brown, 5 to 8 minutes. Increase the heat to medium-high and add the tortilla wedges. Cook, stirring occasionally, until they are browned and crispy. Pour in the salsa. Be careful-it splatters. Stir to blend with the chips. Move the tortillas and salsa to one side of the pan, add the remaining teaspoon of oil to the empty side of the pan, and pour in the eggs. Scramble the eggs for a few minutes, until nearly cooked. Stir the eggs into the tortillas. Turn off the heat, season with salt and pepper, and serve immediately, garnished with fresh cheese and cilantro. cup of the oil. Add the onion, and cook, stirring, until it begins to soften and brown, 5 to 8 minutes. Increase the heat to medium-high and add the tortilla wedges. Cook, stirring occasionally, until they are browned and crispy. Pour in the salsa. Be careful-it splatters. Stir to blend with the chips. Move the tortillas and salsa to one side of the pan, add the remaining teaspoon of oil to the empty side of the pan, and pour in the eggs. Scramble the eggs for a few minutes, until nearly cooked. Stir the eggs into the tortillas. Turn off the heat, season with salt and pepper, and serve immediately, garnished with fresh cheese and cilantro.

Flour Tortillas I love flour tortillas. I grew up eating them as an after-school snack with grated orange cheese or margarine and cinnamon-sugar. Those memories are hard to shake. Just the same, I pretty much gave up on eating flour tortillas after reading the labels on the ones sold in grocery stores. For some reason, I thought they were difficult to make. Not true! These work beautifully and cook up delightfully with a tender flakiness. I like to add a little wheat flour for structure and nutrition. You'll barely be able to resist tearing through them right out of the skillet. Resist you must, though, because they make wonderful Zucchini and Mushroom Quesadillas Zucchini and Mushroom Quesadillas. You'll want leftovers, too, for reheating and eating with a little Cultured b.u.t.ter and a sprinkling of cinnamon-sugar. The dough is easy to work with so there is no need to use a tortilla press.

TIME REQUIRED: 45 minutes active; 30 minutes pa.s.sive (excluding b.u.t.ter preparation) 45 minutes active; 30 minutes pa.s.sive (excluding b.u.t.ter preparation) YIELD: twelve 8-inch tortillas twelve 8-inch tortillas 2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour cup whole-wheat flour1 teaspoons kosher salt1 teaspoon baking powder2 tablespoons vegetable oil2 tablespoons Cultured b.u.t.ter Cultured b.u.t.ter or store-bought b.u.t.ter, softened or store-bought b.u.t.ter, softened In a large bowl, mix together the all-purpose flour, wheat flour, salt, and baking powder. Add the oil and b.u.t.ter and mix with your hands, rubbing the fat into the flour with your fingertips. Pour in 1 cups warm water a little at a time and knead for 2 or 3 minutes in the bowl. The dough should be soft and pliable but not sticky. Let the dough rest for 15 or 20 minutes under a damp towel.

Form the dough into 12 equal b.a.l.l.s, about 2 ounces each. Let rest for about 10 minutes (longer is okay if covered with a damp towel).

Heat a dry cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat.

On a lightly floured board or counter, flatten one dough ball slightly with your palm and, using a rolling pin, roll it out into a thin circle 8 inches in diameter. When the skillet is hot, but not smoking, gently peel the tortilla off the counter and carefully place it in the pan. Cook for 1 minute, and then flip it over with a spatula. It should have small brown spots. Cook for 1 minute on the other side. Nestle the cooked tortillas in a clean towel as you finish cooking the rest. Once you get a rhythm going, you should be able to roll out one while cooking another. The dough is easy to work with and shouldn't give you trouble. You may need to adjust the heat under the pan if you notice the tortillas cooking either too quickly or too slowly. Use the tortillas immediately or let them cool, wrap well, and refrigerate for up to 1 week or freeze for 2 months.

Zucchini and Mushroom Quesadillas [image]

Ordinary vegetables become extraordinary when tucked into homemade flour tortillas. Vary these to your liking or according to the season. You can make them with beans, chicken, winter squash, or any other number of seasonal vegetables. Use store-bought cheese if you're not feeling ambitious enough to make your own, but if you at least make the Simple Tomato Salsa or the Avocado-Tomatillo Salsa and the Flour Tortillas, you're in for a real treat.

TIME REQUIRED: about 45 minutes active (excluding salsa, cheese, and tortilla preparation) about 45 minutes active (excluding salsa, cheese, and tortilla preparation) YIELD: 4 servings 4 servings 3 to 4 tablespoons vegetable oil yellow or white onion, slicedAbout pound mushrooms of your choice, sliced2 medium zucchini, cut in half lengthwise and sliced2 garlic cloves, finely chopped1 teaspoons dried Mexican oregano, crumbledSaltFreshly ground black pepper8 Flour Tortillas Flour Tortillas or store-bought tortillas or store-bought tortillasAbout 1 cups Fresh Whole-Milk Soft Cheese Fresh Whole-Milk Soft Cheese or store-bought grating cheese or queso fresco or store-bought grating cheese or queso fres...o...b..ut 1 cups Simple Tomato Salsa Simple Tomato Salsa or or Avocado-Tomatillo Salsa Avocado-Tomatillo Salsa, plus more for servingFresh cilantro leaves for garnish In a medium, heavy skillet over medium heat, warm 2 tablespoons of the oil. Add the onion and cook until wilted and fragrant, about 8 minutes. Add the mushrooms, zucchini, garlic, oregano, a pinch or two of salt, and a couple of grindings of pepper. Cook, stirring, until the mushrooms are brown and soft, about 10 minutes. Taste and correct the seasoning for salt. The vegetables can be prepared from several hours to 2 days ahead and refrigerated.

Lay the tortillas out on a flat surface and distribute the filling among them, arranging it on one side of each tortilla so they can easily be folded over. Sprinkle the cheese on top of the vegetables, distributing it evenly among the tortillas. Spoon the salsa on top of the filling and cheese, distributing it evenly.

Heat a heavy, well-seasoned, cast-iron skillet over medium heat and add just a whisper of oil-about 1 teaspoon. Fold the quesadillas over and cook them, two at a time, until brown and slightly crisp, and the filling is warmed through, about 3 minutes per side. Keep the cooked quesadillas warm in a low (250-degree-F) oven while you finish cooking the remaining ones, adding more oil as needed. Serve immediately with more salsa on the side and a garnish of cilantro.

Sourdough Starter This is a method anyone can use anywhere to make his or her own sourdough starter from scratch. It's true that sourdough bread from California will taste different from sourdough bread in North Carolina, because different areas have different types of wild yeasts and organisms, but every part of the world has them.

TIME REQUIRED: 10 minutes per day over about 1 week 10 minutes per day over about 1 week Start with equal parts flour and water. I like to start with 4 ounces whole-wheat flour and 4 ounces warm water. After your starter gets going, you can use half unbleached white bread flour and half whole-wheat, all-white, or other types of flours. Starting with whole wheat is good because it ferments more efficiently than white flour.

In a medium gla.s.s bowl (which I prefer) or hard, food-grade plastic container, stir together the flour and water and cover with a tea towel, fastened with a rubber band to keep out fruit flies. Leave it out at room temperature. The starter needs to breathe, so don't cover it with a tight lid unless you are keeping it dormant in the refrigerator.

After 24 hours, check it for bubbles and a fermented aroma. It will probably take 2 to 3 days to begin to ferment.

Each day, discard half the starter (and compost it) and stir in 4 ounces warm water and 4 ounces flour. It's easier to mix if you add the water first. Cover and let sit.

Leave it at room temperature and feed the starter once a day for approximately 1 week before baking with it.

Keep your starter covered in the refrigerator between baking sessions. See the instructions the instructions on feeding in preparation for a bake. on feeding in preparation for a bake.

How to Tell if Your Starter IS READY TO BAKE WITH.

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It should be bubbly and have a good beery, floury aroma. If nothing happens after a week, you may need to help it along. Many people use raisins (unsulfured) because of the active wild yeasts on their surfaces. Just throw a few raisins into your starter and discard them after the starter gets going. I have never needed to do this, though.

If the starter is bad, there will be no mistaking it. It will smell absolutely revolting. If this happens, it just means some bad bacteria got into it. Discard it and start over. This is a rare occurrence.

Once the starter is colonized by good bacteria, you won't need to worry about bad stuff taking over because the bad bacteria don't stand a chance in an active, healthy starter.

Once you have a good healthy starter, the only way to kill or harm it is to stop feeding it and leave it out.

If you need to leave town for longer than 2 or 3 weeks, feed your starter with a larger percentage of flour to water to make it very dry. It should be crumbly. Keep it refrigerated for up to 1 month, or freeze it if you must be away longer. When you return, it will take a few daily regular feedings with a higher proportion of water to bring it back up, so plan a couple of extra feedings before baking.

Try to use your starter every 2 weeks or more often. If you go longer though, don't worry. Sometimes you'll just need an extra feeding before baking. You'll get to know your starter and its particular behavior over time. I have left mine unattended with no special treatment in the refrigerator for as long as a month and a half and after a couple of extra feedings to increase its activity it was fine.

Half-Wheat Sourdough Bread [image]

Baking bread requires a little advance thought and planning, so read the note on feeding your starter in preparation for baking before you begin this recipe.

This recipe and the Sourdough CornmealPumpkin Seed Bread Sourdough CornmealPumpkin Seed Bread were both developed in consultation with artisan baker were both developed in consultation with artisan baker Eduardo Morell Eduardo Morell. Many of Eduardo's loaves have this loaf's identical ratio of wheat to white flour, providing a nice balance of tenderness and flavor. This loaf can be baked in one of two ways: in a one-pound loaf pan or free-form in a closed ceramic bread baker, sometimes called a cloche. Instructions for both follow.

Measurements are given in weights and cups. I highly recommend buying a kitchen scale to ensure bread success.

After a few baking sessions, you will learn to adjust to your kitchen's atmosphere and your preference. Be aware that moister dough is more difficult to shape but will produce a loaf with a more desirable, open crumb. Add more flour and your dough will be easier to shape, but will yield a denser bread. Beginners can start with a slightly greater percentage of flour to water and work up to moister dough as they become more adept at shaping.

TIME REQUIRED: about 40 minutes active; 7 hours pa.s.sive (excluding starter preparation) about 40 minutes active; 7 hours pa.s.sive (excluding starter preparation) YIELD: one 1-pound loaf one 1-pound loaf 11 ounces (about 1[image] cups) slightly warmer than lukewarm water (about 100 degrees F) cups) slightly warmer than lukewarm water (about 100 degrees F)5 ounces (about[image] cup) recently fed and activated cup) recently fed and activated Sourdough Starter Sourdough Starter8 ounces (about 1 cups) wheat flour7 ounces (about 1[image] cups) unbleached bread flour cups) unbleached bread flour1 teaspoons kosher saltVegetable oil or rice flour for pan Pour the water into a large bowl and add the starter. Mix with your hands to dissolve the starter in the water.

Have a small bowl of plain water handy for dipping your hands into. It keeps the dough from sticking.

In another bowl, mix together the flours and salt. Add to the water-starter mixture. Mix in the flour with one hand, using a folding motion from the outside of the bowl inward, turning the bowl with your other hand as you go. Sc.r.a.pe down the sides with a flexible bowl sc.r.a.per, wetting both it and your hands as needed. This will take 3 to 5 minutes. Cover with a towel and let the dough sit in the bowl for 5 minutes.

Using the same outward to inward motion with your hands, knead the dough in the bowl for an additional 5 minutes, dipping your hands in water as necessary. Cover the dough and let sit for 5 minutes.

Repeat, kneading for 5 minutes.

You may use a mixer, but go slowly as it is easy to overwork the dough. Eduardo describes it like overworking a muscle. Too much or too vigorous mixing can break the gluten strands and prevent the bread from rising properly.

Cover the bowl with a towel and let it sit in a warm place for 3 hours. This is called the bulk rise. About halfway through the bulk rise, do a quick fold, using the outside to inside movement (about four turns). If it's a cold day, turn your oven on for a minute and then turn it off and put the dough inside to finish the bulk rise.

If it's a hot day, the whole process will just go much faster and your bulk rise can take as little as 2 hours.

Dump the bulk dough onto a well-floured board or counter. Sprinkle a little flour on top. When you need to move the dough, use your flexible sc.r.a.per to do so.

You'll want to use the least amount of flour possible when shaping because unhydrated flour in the middle of the dough can cause large holes.

Using both hands, grasp the sides of the dough and stretch and pull it gently into a slight rectangle. Grasp the short ends of the rectangle and fold each side in toward the middle. Give the dough a quarter turn, stretch it again, and fold into the middle. Using your sc.r.a.per, turn the dough ma.s.s over so the folded ends are underneath. Spin the dough with one hand and tuck the dough underneath with the other, stretching the top gently into a round. Let it sit for 5 minutes.

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If baking in a loaf pan, brush the pan with oil. If using a ceramic bread baker, you will be making a free-form loaf. For free-form loaves, line a gla.s.s dish or bowl with a tea or thin kitchen towel and dust with rice flour. You may use regular flour, but rice flour prevents sticking much better.

To shape a loaf for the loaf pan, after the preshaped loaf has rested undisturbed for 5 minutes, turn it over and pull and stretch it gently into a rectangle. Fold each of the narrower sides in toward one another and then grasp the top with both hands and make two folds down and inward, on either side, like an envelope, forming a triangle whose tip is on the top edge of the rectangle.

Grasp this top point of the loaf and pull it toward you to form a horizontal cylinder-shaped loaf. Work your way slowly along the length of the dough, tucking and stretching gently with your hands to make a seam on the underside of the loaf. Push lightly on the loaf to smooth out any air bubbles.

Roll the loaf slightly forward so the seam is just visible on the underside of the loaf. Using the heel of your hand along the length of the seam, push the dough gently but firmly against the work surface using the weight of your hand to seal it, but not smash the loaf. With the sc.r.a.per in one hand, and the dough in the other, gently lift the dough and turn it seam-side down into the prepared loaf pan. Cover with a towel and let it sit for 3 hours for its second rise. If you want to bake the next day, you can leave the loaf out for 30 minutes to 1 hour for its second rise and then transfer it to the refrigerator for 8 to 24 hours to r.e.t.a.r.d the fermentation. In this case, remove it from the refrigerator 1 hour before baking.

For a free-form loaf, turn the preshaped loaf over after it has rested for 5 minutes so that the folds are now on top. Stretch the dough out a little and then tuck the dough inward toward the top into a round, much like the preshaped loaf. Turn it over and put it in the towel-lined dish to sit for 3 hours for its second rise.

Preheat the oven to 475 degrees F.