Discoveries in Australia Volume II Part 26

Two miles south-east of it was another opening of more importance, almost forming a channel quite through the flat at the entrance, which extended three miles off the north-west side of Middle Point. I named this Morning Inlet, from the time at which I entered it; and after proceeding a mile in a southerly direction landed for observations, just within the mangroves that fringe the entire coast. My view of the interior was very limited: for some distance were patches of bare mud, whitened with a salt incrustation, which appeared the character of the country immediately behind the mangroves; afterwards it rose into plains, on which small gum-trees were to be seen in the distance.

From Morning Inlet the coast was slightly waving and trended East 20 degrees North. At the end of twelve miles we found a little opening on the south-east side of a small point which concealed the boats from two natives, who were out on the mud flats, till we got close to them. They gazed for a moment at the strange apparition, and then made off as fast as the nature of the ground would admit; they were quite naked, and we were not a little amused to see them floundering through the soft mud.

Close to the westward of this opening are two clumps of tall mangroves, the only remarkable objects on the sh.o.r.e of the Gulf from Disaster Inlet.

There was another small inlet four miles further on; and what is remarkable for this neighbourhood, a sandy beach midway between them.

EXPLORE AN OPENING.

On the evening of the 28th we entered a large and promising opening,*

distant twenty-one miles from Morning Inlet; its importance was made manifest by its forming a channel of two feet at low-water through the flat at the entrance, which it threw out considerably.

(*Footnote. The mouth is in lat.i.tude 17 degrees 36 minutes 40 seconds South, and longitude 8 degrees 27 minutes 0 seconds East of Port Essington.)

The boats proceeded up the opening at daylight on the 29th; our hopes were considerably raised by finding a depth of three and, in some places, five fathoms, and a width of about a hundred and twenty yards. The banks were, as usual, lined with mangroves; behind which, on the eastern side, retreated vast plains, with trees of some size scattered over them. They extend to the coast eastward of the entrance, which is sandy for some distance, with casuarinae, acacias, and small gums, which was not only a pleasing change from the monotonous mangrove sh.o.r.e, but had also its utility, serving to show the mouth of the opening from the offing.

We pursued a general South-South-East direction, though from the windings, and the tide being against us, our progress was slow; and at the end of eleven miles were obliged to wait its changing. Here we landed in the mouth of a small creek at the end of a clear bank on the eastern side; the opposite one also began to wear the same character, and our eyes therefore were permitted to wander over an immense extent of very level open gra.s.sy country, dotted with clumps of trees.

The tides changing only twice in twenty-four hours presented a great impediment to our exploration, and it was evening before we could again move onwards.

AUSTRALIAN CUCKOO.

Whilst waiting the tide, the note of a bird resembling the cuckoo broke the deep stillness that prevailed. It was evening; all around was calm: the wide extended plain dimly stretching away on every side, the waters as they imperceptibly swelled between the curving banks, the heavens in which the last rays of the sun still lingered, gilding the few clouds that hovered near the horizon. A pleasing sadness stole over the heart as these familiar sounds--the note of this Australian cuckoo, if I may venture to name a bird from its voice--floated through the tranquil air.

Recollections of the domestic hearth, and the latticed window shaded with vines and honeysuckles, and the distant meadows, and glades, and woodlands, covered with the bursting buds of spring; and--pervading all and giving a charm to all--the monotonous but ever welcome and thrilling note of the cuckoo sounding afar off: recollections of all these things, I say, rushed o'er each fancy, and bore us for a moment back in imagination to our island home.

DISCOVERY OF FLINDERS RIVER.

The more rapid flow of the tide and the announcement that there was now sufficient water for the boats to proceed, broke our reverie; and we were soon once more cleaving the moonlit reach. I may here mention that this bird, and another with a more mournful cry, the same before spoken of up the Victoria River, were heard again at eventide.

Avoiding a large shoal, which threatened to arrest our further progress, by a narrow channel close to the west bank, we continued to pursue the upward course of this inlet or river--we were yet uncertain what to call it--in a general southerly direction; though the reaches were singularly tortuous, resembling the folds of a snake. The depth was now only about one fathom, and our progress was much impeded by banks; but by the friendly aid of the moon we were able to proceed, and many of the sudden bends were revealed by the silvery stream of light it shed over the still waters as they lay between banks now overhung by mangrove thickets, now receding in plains dotted with gloomy clumps of gumtrees, as far as the eye, from our low position and by the imperfect light afforded, could reach. As we advanced, the measured plash of the oars frightened from their roosting places in the trees, a huge flock of screeching vampires, that disturbed for a time the serenity of the scene by their discordant notes; and a few reaches further up, noisy flights of our old friends, the whistling-ducks, greeted our ears. Their presence and cries were hailed with delight, not exactly because they gave rise to any romantic a.s.sociations, but because they promised to recruit our victualling department, which had not been supplied with such dainties since leaving Disaster Inlet. Had our taste resembled that of some of the natives of the western coast of Africa, the vampires would have answered our purpose.

The yawl grounding repeatedly, occasioned so much delay, that after proceeding seven miles I pushed on with the gig alone. Our course was still South by East and the reaches were less crooked. Four miles further we were delighted to find our progress rendered hazardous by sunken trees, so much so indeed, that I was most reluctantly obliged to wait a few hours for daylight. There could now no longer be a doubt that we were in a river, and I immediately embraced the opportunity of gratifying my earnest and heartfelt desire of paying the promised tribute to our scientific predecessor; and accordingly named this, our first discovery, after him, The Flinders.

As soon as the blackened heads of the fallen trees, evidences of how fierce a torrent had borne them hither, could be discerned, we proceeded.

The reaches became again tortuous, but we still made some progress. The mangroves were no longer to be seen fringing the banks with their garden shrubbery appearance. In a broad easterly reach, some natives were burning the country close to the west bank, but they did not show themselves. At the end of it the river expanded into a beautiful sheet of water a quarter of a mile in width, though only three feet deep.

ACCIDENT TO THE BOAT.

Some low gra.s.sy islets were scattered here and there, reposing in emerald verdure on the surface of the stream, which was reverting under the influence of the tide, towards its source, and now hurried the boat so rapidly through a narrow channel between the west side of a large island and a low line of earthy cliffs, as to carry her foul of a submerged tree and half fill and almost capsize her. In order to ascertain the extent of the damage, we landed on a small sandy beach, in which was the fresh print of a native's foot; but we neither heard nor saw him or his companions, although columns of smoke from their fires stole upwards through the calm still air on all sides. A fine sheet of water now lay before us, trending southwards for upwards of two miles, with a width of about a quarter; and it was with increasing interest and anxiety that we pulled up it.

APPEARANCE OF THE RIVER.

Pa.s.sing a line of cliffs, twenty feet high, the banks became green and gra.s.sy, descending with an almost imperceptible slope into the stream, and blending with their vivid reflections so as to render it difficult to determine where was the point of contact. It seemed as if we were gliding through an indefinite expanse of limpid water reposing between two vast plains, that here rose higher than we had before seen the land on this part of the continent.

Hurrying on with a still favourable tide, but at a rate much too slow for our impatience, we pa.s.sed two other small gra.s.sy islets, and a third was before us. The eastern bank had become steep, overhanging, and clothed with a ma.s.s of luxuriant creepers; whilst on the opposite side was a low woody patch, partly immersed by the lake-like gla.s.sy water of the river, into which one slender tree dipped its feathery crest, appearing like another Narcissus, to admire its own beauty in the stream. In front, the eye could penetrate far down the reach hemmed in as it was by trees that cl.u.s.tered thick on the water's brink.

NATIVE BURIAL TREE.

To the right was what might be called an open glade; in the midst of it rose a tree the branches of which were laden with a most singular looking bundle or roll of pieces of wood. Struck with its appearance, we rested on our oars to observe it;* but scarcely had we done so, when from a point higher up, that appeared to divide the river into two branches, rose a thick volume of smoke that soon filled the air, as if a huge black cloud had lighted on the earth in that direction. We endeavoured to proceed in order to satisfy our curiosity, but a rocky ledge extending across the river arrested our further progress at this time of the tide.

Landing, accordingly, I advanced for nearer inspection, towards the huge bundle of sticks before mentioned. It seemed almost like the nest of some new bird, and greatly excited my curiosity. As I approached a most unpleasant smell a.s.sailed me; and on climbing up to examine it narrowly, I found that it contained the decaying body of a native.

(*Footnote. See the view annexed. )

Within the outer covering of sticks was one of net, with an inner one of the bark of the papyrus tree enveloping the corpse. According to the singular practice of uncivilized people, of providing for the wants of those who have nothing more to do with earthly things, some weapons were deposited with the deceased in this novel kind of mortuary habitation; and a little beyond was a rill of water.

There was an air of loneliness in the spot, perfectly in keeping with the feelings this strange discovery naturally called forth; and from the few recent signs of the natives, it would appear that here, as in other parts of the continent, spots where the dead lie are kept sacred. Some dark brown and black hawks were perched on the trees near, looking like so many mutes stationed to show respect to the departed; but their intentions were of a different character, as they were waiting, I imagine, for some friendly gust of wind to shake off the covering of the deceased.

EXTENSIVE CONFLAGRATION.

While we were making these observations, the conflagration on the point above continued to rage with great fury; and I have no doubt that it was kindled in order to attract our attention and prevent us from visiting this sacred spot. Though we saw not the form of a living being, I am persuaded that the eyes of the natives were upon us, and that our every movement was watched. The method they adopted to lure us away from the neighbourhood of the dead was simple and ingenious, and might have proved successful had not the interposing ledge of rocks prevented our further progress. To effect their purpose they must have burnt up a very large s.p.a.ce, as the smoke that arose obscured all that quarter of the heavens.

We observed also that the ground about the burial tree had been submitted to the flames, as if to keep away the few kangaroos that visit this spot.

This singular mode of disposing of the dead among the aborigines of Australia, extends to the banks of the Murray River, on the south coast, as we learn from Mr. Eyre's vivid narrative; and as we know that it exists in New Guinea, we may fairly infer that so far we can trace the migration of the population of the fifth division of the globe.*

(*Footnote. It is a curious circ.u.mstance to observe that the same custom prevailed among the ancient Scythians, as we learn from Mr. St. John's History of the Manners and Customs of the Ancient Greeks volume 3 page 345.)

REMARKS ON NATIVE RITES.

I have always considered that Eastern and Western Australia were originally separated by the sea; and that when they were thus separated (which the narrow s.p.a.ce, and as I conjecture, lowness of the country between the Gulf of Carpentaria and Lake Torrens fully bears out) the habits of what is now the northern side of the continent found their way to the southern. It is true I have in another place conjectured, that in cases where similar habits are found to prevail at widely distant points, they may be looked upon as relics of a former universal state of things, now preserved only in particular localities; yet without invalidating this general rule, I think that the facts of the mode of burial I have described, and likewise the rite of circ.u.mcision, existing in the bottom of the Gulf of Carpentaria, and on the south side of the continent, strongly support the opinion that there once existed water communication between them.

However this may be, the discovery we had made highly interested the whole party, and suggested the name of Burial Reach for that part of the river. Knowing, or at least feeling, that we were narrowly watched by those into whose territories we had penetrated, I did not venture far inland. In the few miles traversed there was little of interest, except that we felt the pleasure which almost surpa.s.ses that created by beauty of scenery, of traversing a country totally new to the European. It is astonishing how charming mere plains covered with clumps of trees appear under such circ.u.mstances. But this feeling can be enjoyed but once; for it is the explorer alone who can either experience or deserve it.

This part of the country, though to all appearance equally level with any other, was higher, and may perhaps have attained to the elevation of thirty-five feet above the level of the sea. Over the plains were scattered flocks of beautiful rose-coloured c.o.c.katoos, several of which I shot; they were precisely the same as those on the southern parts of the continent.

Beyond Burial Reach the river separates into two branches, one taking an easterly and the other a southerly direction; but neither of them, unfortunately, was it at that time in my power to explore. Here we again, for the second time only, met with a rocky formation: it was of a red ferruginous character. Our furthest position on the Flinders was in lat.i.tude 17 degrees 51 minutes South in a general South by East 1/2 East direction from the entrance, nearly thirty miles by the distance the boats had traversed.

MOVE DOWN THE RIVER.

After noon observations, the gig moved down the river. On pa.s.sing the large island, I shot an animal resembling a water-rat, of large dimensions, particularly expanded across the loins, with stout hind legs and palmated feet, of a light slate colour and soft fine hair approaching fur, the colour gradually becoming lighter under the abdomen; the head was flatter than that of the usual tribe of water-rats, and resembled an otter.*

(*Footnote. There is a species of water-rat inhabiting the coast of Australia, called Hydromys chrysogaster; but this was the first time we met with anything like it.)

RETURN TO THE SHIP.

It was not until long after dark that we reached the mouth, where, meeting the yawl, both boats ran out of the river on their return to the ship, distant thirty-three miles. The prevalence of light winds made it noon before we got on board, when I found that in consequence of the tides approaching the springs and falling 12 instead of 6 feet, it had been necessary to move the ship farther off.

During our absence light winds had prevailed; on several days land and seabreezes. The cessation of strong southerly winds kept the temperature about 60 degrees. Mr. Fitzmaurice had returned and gave the following account of his examination.

MR. FITZMAURICE'S EXPLORATION.

Commencing at Mr. Forsyth's furthest, he found the southerly trend of the coast change in the course of nine miles to the eastward, forming a large shoal bay, which at low-water had a mud flat extending off nearly two miles. The east point of this bay, named Point Tarrant,* I had seen from the south-east end of Sweers Island, bearing South 17 degrees West eighteen miles. It is rendered remarkable by a slight rise in the land behind it, forming low mounds or hillocks. Two miles to the westward Mr.

Fitzmaurice discovered an inlet, which he followed a league in a general south-west direction, when it had in no way lost the promising appearance it possessed from its breadth at the mouth, which was further increased by the manner in which the bank was thrown out off it.

(*Footnote. After one of the officers who had shared all the hard work, a practice generally adopted.)

Nine miles further westward were two other small openings. Mr.

Fitzmaurice's exploration terminated seventeen miles South 56 degrees East from Point Tarrrant, where another inlet was found of still greater magnitude and importance. The coast between fell back slightly, forming two shallow bights with the usual low monotonous mangrove sh.o.r.es, and extensive frontage of mud. At the distance of six and ten miles from Point Tarrant were two other inlets, the latter of which was large and received Mr. Pasco's name. It was examined for a short distance in a South by West direction, and presented the usual low banks lined with mangroves. Near the entrance a native came down to the sh.o.r.e to look at the boat; he was very tall and quite naked, and would not allow our party to approach.

CHAPTER 2.9. GULF OF CARPENTARIA.