Discoveries in Australia Volume I Part 36

We anch.o.r.ed to prevent being taken back through Dundas Strait by the return tide, which from 5 P.M., to midnight, set South-East by South from two to three knots an hour. High-water at Popham Bay on the east side of the Strait being at a quarter past eleven, we may conclude the North-West stream began at this anchorage three quarters of an hour after high-water. Weighing as soon as the tide made out of the strait, although there was still no wind, we were rather surprised at daylight to find how little the ship had drifted to the North-North-West. The only reason I can give in explanation is that the ebb or North-West stream out of the gulf joins with, and is thrown out of its course by the easterly or ebb stream setting past Cape Fleming.

ARRIVAL AT THE PORT.

A breeze springing up late in the morning, we beat along the north side of the Cobourg Peninsula, entering Port Essington at dusk. In working round Vashon Head, we found the water shoal very rapidly to 12, 9, and 7 fathoms on approaching it; on the bearing South 30 degrees West. This head is fronted by a reef of some extent, which similar to the other at the entrance of Port Essington, cannot be distinguished, owing to the muddy colour of the water; it is therefore necessary that the lead should be kept constantly going when in its vicinity. When daylight broke, we found no fresh arrival to greet our anxious gaze, the Britomart being still the only guardian of the port. Her solitary aspect at once destroyed our hopes of supplies, and on reaching the settlement our fears proved to have too much foundation. Hope, however, is the last feeling which leaves the human breast, and in this instance did not desert us; as there was still a chance of a vessel arriving, while we were engaged in watering the ship.

VICTORIA THEATRE.

The news of our discovery of the Adelaide was hailed with infinite satisfaction, and the numerous speculations and ideas on the subject which were at once afloat, afforded an agreeable variety to the monotony of existence in the settlement, where however at the moment of our arrival an unusual degree of excitement prevailed through the activity of Captain Stanley.

THEATRICAL AMUs.e.m.e.nTS.

Ever anxious to provide for the amus.e.m.e.nt of others, he had been for some time engaged in getting up a play, which was now nearly ready to be performed. Its name I regret to have forgotten; it was however nothing very deep, and was selected from a volume that had already performed a voyage to the North Pole. This adventurous playbook, which had certainly done its duty, was originally picked up by its owner on Tower-hill. The scenery was painted by Captain Stanley with earths of the country, who also was stage manager and general planner of the whole. The wives of some of the garrison supplied female costumes, while a large workshop was converted into a theatre. At length, after the difficulties usually attendant on private theatricals, everything was in readiness for the first performance of the drama in Northern Australia. Tickets were issued, of which I have one before me, a small piece of card containing the words "Victoria Theatre, Port Essington, August 24th, 1839." In after years this will be looked upon as a curious relic in connection with the history of this part of the continent. As if to cause the first performance of a play at Victoria, to take place under smiling auspices, such as the occasion properly called for, H.M.S. Pelorus arrived with supplies and letters from Sydney. The previous growing dearth of provisions had rendered it somewhat difficult to secure a very happily disposed audience, an empty stomach being apt to provoke fault finding: but the arrival of a ship on the very play day caused a crowded and delighted attendance. Everything went off smoothly, and with hearty peals of laughter. All the characters being supported by men, the female personages of the drama presented a most grotesque appearance; moreover the act drop being an old ensign, the ladies could be seen through it, regaling themselves, during these intervals, with a pipe. The whole affair gave infinite satisfaction, while ours was greatly enhanced, and our minds prepared for any duty, by the timely arrival of supplies and letters, of both of which we fortunately received our share.

Our departure from Port Essington, was not therefore hurried; and I had some slight opportunity of adding to my knowledge, with regard to the capabilities of the place, which were found to grow upon acquaintance.

The fact of its being well fitted for the growth of cotton was in particular a great additional recommendation. The sallow appearance of the settlers clearly demonstrated the temperature to be high, though apparently there was no diminution in physical strength. It should however be remembered that up to this time they had not had the same nourishment as those who appeared amongst them as transient visitors, with ruddy faces. The warmth of the climate in itself conduces to intemperance, which to Europeans is ever fatal.

The Pelorus brought orders for the Britomart to proceed to Sydney.

Pa.s.sAGE THROUGH TORRES STRAIT.

Captain Stanley was anxious--with the westerly monsoon--to have attempted the pa.s.sage through Torres Strait, instead of going round the west coast, as such a course might have led to some discoveries in that neighbourhood; a result always in such a service of the utmost importance.

It is however to be regretted that the senior officer did not approve of this plan, as the pa.s.sage has only once been made from the westward by Captain Lihou, R.N., who having experienced some difficulties reported unfavourably of it. The importance of an intimate acquaintance with this route will be better appreciated, when we reflect that ultimately through this pa.s.sage will the great traffic be carried on between our East Indian and Australian possessions.

During our visit to Port Essington, some of the changes among our officers, mentioned in the beginning of the work, took place. Mr. Forsyth joined us from the Pelorus, and, from his knowledge of surveying, was a valuable addition to our party.

SKETCH OF VICTORIA.

Having said so much in relation to Port Essington on our former visit, and wishing to create among our readers an interest in the locality, we give a slight sketch of the appearance of the settlement from the anchorage, which will be more effective than our most elaborate description of it.

EVIL EXAMPLE OF CONVICTS.

Before taking leave of this new colony, we must at once express a hope that it will not be made a Penal settlement; not that we doubt the wonderful degree in which the convict system has hastened the prosperity of our possessions on the south-eastern part of the continent; but from the proximity of northern Australia to the islands in the Arafura sea--the waters separating them being often navigable for boats--the natives would be contaminated and vitiated, their women corrupted, and the badly disposed among the islanders rendered worse; and instead of our advent bringing with it the light of the gospel, and the real and substantial blessings of civilization, we should enjoy the unenviable privilege of still further degenerating the savage. The evil thus caused in New Zealand has been incalculable; to the bad example of convicts we owe much of the ills which have there arisen; the fine fearless bearing of the wild man, has been partially exchanged for the low cunning, acquired from the runaway felon; who reckless of his own life can have no regard for that of others. The worst crimes of the dregs of a civilized population have been introduced; and many of those wretched beings, who might otherwise have been reclaimed from the rude vices of savage life, have, through the white man's instrumentality, perished in sin.*

(*Footnote. I knew an instance of a convict, who when dying actually picked a man's pocket. The ruling pa.s.sion, strong in death, was here painfully exemplified. J.L.S.)

The number of Malay proas that visit this part of the continent, would also furnish facilities for the escape of convicts from the neighbourhood of Port Essington.

We shall now fulfil our promise to the reader, of laying before him Captain Stanley's interesting cruise to the islands we have just alluded to, which will occupy the remaining portion of the present volume.

CHAPTER 1.12.

Leave Port Essington.

Reach Timor Laut.

Meet Proas.

Chief Lomba.

Traces of the Crew of the Charles Eaton.

Their account of the wreck and sojourn on the Island.

Captain King's account of the Rescue of the Survivors.

Boy Ireland's relation of the sufferings and ma.s.sacre of the Crew.

Appearance of the sh.o.r.es of Timor Laut.

Description of the Inhabitants.

Dress.

Leprosy.

Canoes.

Village of Oliliet.

Curious Houses.

Remarkable Ornaments.

Visit the Oran Kaya.

Burial Islet.

Supplies obtained.

Gunpowder in request as Barter.

Proceed to the Arru Islands.

Dobbo Harbour.

Trade.

Present to Chief.

Birds of Paradise.

Chinaming Junks' bottoms.

Character of Natives.

Some of them profess Christianity.

Visit the Ki Islands.

Village of Ki Illi.

How protected.

Place of Worship.

Pottery.

Timber.

Boat-building.

Cultivation of the eastern Ki.

No anchorage off it.

Visit Ki Doulan.

Antique Appearance of.

Luxuriant Vegetation.

Employment of Natives.

Defences of the place.

Carvings on gateway.

Civility of Chief.

His Dress.

Population of the Ki Group.

Their Religion.

Trade.

Place of Interment.

Agility of Australian Native.

Supplies.

Anchorage off Ki Doulan.

Island of Vordate.

Visit from Chief.

Excitement of Natives.