Curiosities Of Great Britain: England And Wales Delineated Part 16

[Sidenote: Right of Common.]

[Sidenote: Singular custom.]

[B] BALDOCK is situated between two hills, at the intersection of the great north road, and the Roman Ikeneld street. It was formerly the property of the Knights Templars, to whom Gilbert, Earl of Pembroke, gave the site; it was then called Baudoc: but some antiquarians, with little reason, derive its name from Balbec, a city in Syria, from which this order of knights was expelled by the Saracens. It princ.i.p.ally consists of one long ancient street. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, is a s.p.a.cious structure, and was built by the Knights Templars, and again partly rebuilt in the early part of the fifteenth century. All the early portion of this structure is of pure Roman architecture, and the latter of the florid gothic. The steeple, which is octagonal, was rebuilt a few years ago. In the church is a richly carved oaken screen, part of the ancient rood-loft, and a very curious font. In cutting through Baldock-hill, to form a new road, a number of fossils, consisting of cornua ammonis, sharks' teeth, &c., were discovered. There is a curious custom in this manor. When the Steward holds his Court Leet, the bell tolls, to summons the copyhold tenants together, to do their suit and service at dinner, to which every baker sends a loaf of bread, and every victualler a flagon of ale or beer. The object of this custom is intended for the Court Leet to examine the measures, as well as to judge of the quality of the articles of food.

_Market_, Thursday.--_Fairs_, March 7; last Thursday in May; August 5; October 2; December 11, for cheese, cattle, and household goods.--_Mail_ arrives 12.31 morning, departs 2.16 morning.--_Bankers_, Williamson and Co., draw on h.o.a.re and Co.--_Inn_, White Hart.

[Sidenote: Sharks' teeth found in cutting through a hill.]

Map Names of Places. County. Number of Miles From +--+--------------------+---------+--------------+--------------+ 27 Bale pa Norfolk Holt 5 Cley 6 37 Balham vil Surrey Clapham 1 Tooting 2 43 Balke to N.R. York Thirsk 4 Helmsley 10 46 Balke-Holme to E.R. York Howden 2 South Cave 10 10 Ballidon to Derby Ashborne 6 Wirksworth 6 14 Ballingdon pa chap Ess.e.x Sudbury 1 Halstead 8 17 Ballingham pa Hereford Hereford 7 Ross 6 45 Balne to W.R. York Snaith 4 Pontefract 10 39 Balsall chap Warwick Warwick 10 Coventry 10 31 Balscott ham Oxford Banbury 5 Chip Norton 14 6 Balsham pa Cambridge Linton 4 Cambridge 8 35 Balterley to Stafford Newcastle 7 Congleton 9 34 Baltonsborough pa Somerset Glas...o...b..ry 4 Somerton 4 29 Bambrough to & pa Northumb Belford 5 Holy Island 6 29 Bambrough[A] to Northumb ... 5 ... 6 10 Bamford ham Derby S. Middleton 6 Sheffield 11 22 Bamford to Lancaster Rochdale 3 Manchester 7 11 Bampton[B] m.t. & pa Devon Exeter 23 Tiverton 7 31 Bampton[C] m.t. & pa Oxford Oxford 16 Witney 5 +--+--------------------+---------+--------------+--------------+ Dist. Map Names of Places. Number of Miles From Lond. Population.

+--+--------------------+------------------------+-----+--------+ 27 Bale pa Walsingham 6 117 275 37 Balham vil Epsom 9 5 ... 43 Balke to Easingwold 9 222 72 46 Balke-Holme to Weighton 12 182 107 10 Ballidon to Winster 6 142 108 14 Ballingdon pa chap Bury 17 54 283 17 Ballingham pa Ledbury 12 126 147 45 Balne to Thorne 8 173 343 39 Balsall chap Solihul 5 100 1038 31 Balscott ham Deddington 9 74 213 6 Balsham pa Newmarket 9 52 1074 35 Balterley to Nantwich 12 153 ... 34 Baltonsborough pa Cas. Caray 8 121 675 29 Bambrough to & pa Alnwick 15 324 3949 29 Bambrough[A] to ... 15 61 324 10 Bamford ham Castleton 4 165 238 22 Bamford to Bury 6 189 1207 11 Bampton[B] m.t. & pa Morebath 2 162 1961 31 Bampton[C] m.t. & pa Farringdon 7 71 2514 +--+--------------------+------------------------+-----+--------+

[A] BAMBROUGH CASTLE is situated on the romantic coast of Northumberland, near an obscure town of the same name; it stands upon a triangular rock, high, rugged, and abrupt on the land side. But we leave its description, which would be too lengthy, and turn rather to the account of the benevolent inst.i.tution founded in 1720, by Lord Crewe, Bishop of Durham, of which it is the seat. The keep of the castle is fitted up for suffering seamen, and property which may have been rescued from the fury of the ocean. Regulations were also adopted to prevent accidents on the coast, and to alleviate misfortunes when they had occurred. A nine-pounder placed at the bottom of the great tower, gives signals to ships in distress; and in case of a wreck announces it to the Custom-house officers, who hasten to prevent its being plundered. In addition to this, during a storm, hors.e.m.e.n patrol the coast, and rewards are paid for the earliest intelligence of vessels in distress. A flag is always hoisted when any ship is seen in distress on the Fern Islands or Staples; or a rocket thrown up at night, which gives notice to the fishermen of Holy Island, who put off to the spot when no boat from the main can get over the breakers. There has also been life-boats added to the establishment. Within the walls of the castle are supported two free-schools, an infirmary, thirty beds for shipwrecked sailors, and a granary, whence poor persons are supplied with provision at the first price. There is also a library, the books of which are circulated gratuitously for twenty miles round. This philanthropic endowment has not been suffered to decay with the romance of olden time, but the charitable intentions of the testator are fulfilled so as to exhibit a lasting record of his active benevolence.

[Sidenote: Seat of the Bishop of Durham.]

[Sidenote: n.o.ble charity.]

[B] BAMPTON. A market town, situated near the little river Batherme, which flows into the Exe at about one mile distance. Mr. Polwhele considers that this was a Roman station, and here, probably, the Romans had artificial hot-baths. A chalybeate spring in this neighbourhood is much celebrated for its medicinal qualities. John de Bampton, a Carmelite, who was the first who publicly read Aristotle in Cambridge, was born here: he died in 1391. The manufactures of the place are serges and pottery.

_Market_, Sat.u.r.day.--_Fairs_, Whit Tuesday, and last Thursday in October, for cattle.

[Sidenote: John de Bampton.]

[C] BAMPTON. Here are some slight remains of an ancient castle, supposed to have been erected in the reign of King John. The celebrated poet, John Philips, the son of Dr. Stephen Philips, archdeacon of Salop, was born in this town, on the 30th of December, 1676, and after the preliminary process of juvenile education, was sent to Winchester, where he was distinguished by the superiority of his exercises, and at school endeared himself to all his companions and superiors: it is related of him, that he seldom mingled in the play of other boys, but retired to his chamber, and indulged in the study of the poets and of the ancient and modern cla.s.sics, particularly Milton. In 1694, he was removed to Christchurch, Oxford, where he finished all his University acquirements; but Milton--the immortal Milton--continued to be his uninterrupted day dream: and he might have exclaimed in the language of that poet, I will study the magnificence of thy etherial phantasy,

"From morn till noon, from noon to dewey eve, When Urania visits my nightly Slumbers, or when morn purples the east."

It is said that there was not an allusion in "Paradise Lost," drawn from any hint either in "Homer," or "Virgil," to which he could not immediately refer. While at Oxford he was honoured with the friendship of Mr. Edmund Smith, author of the Tragedy of "Phaedra and Hippolitus;"

and also with that of the most polite and favoured of the gentlemen in the University. His first poem was published in 1703, ent.i.tled, "The Splendid Shilling," which has the merit of an original design. His next poem, ent.i.tled "Blenheim," which he wrote as a rival to Addison's poem on the same subject, was published in 1705, and procured him the patronage of Mr. Henry Saint John, afterwards Lord Bolingbroke.

Independent of poetry, Philips was an excellent botanist; in 1706 he produced his third poem on "Cyder," founded on the model of Virgil's Georgics, a book not only of entertainment but of science; and soon afterwards, a latin Ode, "to Henry Saint John, Esq.," said to have been the poet's masterpiece. "It is gay and elegant," says Dr. Johnson, "and exhibits several artful accommodations of cla.s.sic expressions to new purposes." At the time of his illness, Philips was meditating a poem to be called "The Last Day;" death put an end to so solemn and majestic a finale of genius. He died at Hereford, of a lingering consumption, February 15, 1708, in the thirty-third year of his age, and was buried in the cathedral of that city. Sir Simon Harcourt, afterwards Lord Chancellor, erected a monument to his memory in Westminster Abbey, the epitaph upon which was written by Doctor Atterbury. Philips was a gentleman of a modest and amiable disposition, "and always praised without contradiction," (says Dr. Johnson) "as a man, modest, blameless, and pious, who bore a narrow fortune without discontent--and tedious and painful maladies without impatience; beloved by those who knew him, but not ambitious to be known."

_Market_, Wednesday.--_Fairs_, March 26, and August 26, for cattle and toys.

[Sidenote: John Philips the poet.]

[Sidenote: Philips's poetical works.]

[Sidenote: Character and death.]

Map Names of Places. County. Number of Miles From +--+--------------------+----------+------------+-----------+ 40 Bampton[A] to & pa Westmorlnd Orton 10 Penrith 9 40 Bampton-Grange ham Westmorlnd 10 9 9 Bampton, Little to c.u.mberland Wigton 5 Carlisle 7 +--+--------------------+----------+------------+-----------+ Dist. Map Names of Places. Number of Miles From Lond. Population.

+--+--------------------+-----------------------+-----+-----+ 40 Bampton[A] to & pa Shap 4 282 636 40 Bampton-Grange ham ... 4 282 9 Bampton, Little to Longtown 10 311 213 +--+--------------------+-----------------------+-----+-----+

[A] BAMPTON. The river Lowther runs through this parish. Here is a beautiful lake, called Haweswater, three miles long, and half a mile broad; it is environed by lofty mountains, conveying to the mind a grand and imposing appearance: its eastern side is sheltered by rocky eminences, plentifully clothed with verdure, while the western side displays the open fields, with all the sweet varieties of culture. A lead mine has lately been discovered in the neighbourhood. The free grammar-school was founded by Thomas Sutton, D.D., who vested in trustees the sum of 500., collected from estates out of the parish of St. Saviour, Southwark, and other places. Here, also, three parochial libraries were established respectively, in the years 1710, 1750, 1752, comprising about 800 volumes. Thomas Gibson, M.D., who married the daughter of Richard Cromwell, Protector, was Physician-General of the army, and a native of this parish. He was the author of a system of anatomy. The learned doctor, having laid the foundation of his cla.s.sical learning at a school in this county, he entered as scholar at Queen's College, Oxford, in 1686. The study of the northern languages about this period was particularly cultivated at the University, and Mr. Gibson rigidly applied himself to that branch of literature, in which he was a.s.sisted by Dr. Hicks. In a short time he translated into Latin the "Chronicon Saxonic.u.m," and published it together with the Saxon original. Dr. Gibson had an early and strong inclination to search the antiquities of his own country, and being well versed in the knowledge of its original languages, he applied himself with great diligence, and in a few years produced his edition of "Camden's Britannica," and concluded this branch of learning with "Reliquae Spelmannianae," or the posthumous works of Sir Henry Spelman, relating to the laws and antiquities of England, which, with a life of the author, he published at Oxford, in 1698, and dedicated his work to Archbishop Tenison. About this time he was taken as Domestic Chaplain to the Archbishop's family, and soon afterwards was made Rector of Lambeth, and Archdeacon of Surrey. Upon the death of the Archbishop, in 1715, Dr. Wake, Bishop of Lincoln, succeeded him, and Dr. Gibson was appointed to that See; and Dr. Robinson also dying, in 1720, Gibson was appointed Bishop of London.

The ministry were so sensible of his great abilities, that a sort of ecclesiastical ministry was committed to his charge for several years.

He died on the 6th of September, 1748, with true Christian fort.i.tude, and in perfect tranquillity of mind.

[Sidenote: Haweswater lake.]

[Sidenote: Dr. Thomas Gibson.]

[Sidenote: An Antiquarian.]

[Sidenote: Made Bishop of London.]

Map Names of Places. County. Number of Miles From +--+---------------------+--------+-----------+------------+ 53 Bannel to Flint Hawarden 3 Mold 4 31 Banbury[A] bo. & m.t. Oxford Oxford 21 Woodstock 16 +--+---------------------+--------+-----------+------------+ Dist. Map Names of Places. Number of Miles From Lond. Population.

+--+---------------------+--------------------+-----+------+ 53 Bannel to Wrexham 10 196 ... 31 Banbury[A] bo. & m.t. Southam 14 76 5906 +--+---------------------+--------------------+-----+------+

[A] BANBURY is pleasantly situated on the small river Charwell, and its staple commodities seem to be cheese and cakes; the former, even in Shakspeare's time, appear to have been celebrated, for Bardolph, when accused by "Slender" of robbing him of his two milled sixpences, exclaims, "You Banbury cheese." The cakes have made this town more celebrated than even its political engagements. The castle of Banbury was founded in the year 1153, by Alexander, Bishop of Lincoln, and continued an episcopal residence till the reign of Henry VI. During the contentions between the houses of York and Lancaster, when civil discord was a familiar incident in this neighbourhood, Banbury suffered much; but more particularly in the memorable engagement, called "The Battle of Banbury," fought about three miles from the town, in 1469. It took place on a plane called Danesmoor, near Edgecote. The Earl of Warwick was the commander of the Lancasterian forces, and the Yorkists were led by the Earls of Stafford and Pembroke, who had possession of the town. After one of the most determined conflicts ever recorded, the Yorkists were routed; the Earl of Pembroke and his brother were both taken and beheaded, and Edward IV. himself made prisoner a few days after. In 1642, the towns-people took part with the Parliament, but after the battle of Edgehill, this castle was taken by the royalists, under Sir William Compton, who defended it for 13 weeks against all the efforts of Sir John Fiennes, until the garrison was relieved by the Earl of Northampton. It suffered a further siege of 10 weeks, under Sir William Waller, and surrendered on honourable terms. Leland, who wrote in the Reign of Henry VIII., says, "In this castle is a terrible prison for convict men." A stone vault, with grated windows, and traces of the inner ditch, is supposed to have been the terrible prison alluded to, but very small remains exist in the present day. The free grammar-school is now wholly abandoned, and the school-house let out on lease by the corporation. This is much to be regretted, as it was formerly held in such high estimation, that the statutes of this establishment were taken as a model for St. Paul's school, London; and the statutes of the free grammar-school of Manchester, in 1524, ordain, that the grammar taught in that school, should be taught only "after the manner of the school at Banbury, in Oxfordshire, which is called Stanbridge's Grammar." Mr.

Stanbridge, the celebrated grammarian alluded to, was a highly learned man, and tutor to Sir Thomas Pope. Adjoining the Ram Inn is a sulphurous well, and at a small distance from the town is a chalybeate spring. The pyrites aureus, or golden fire-stone, is frequently found in this neighbourhood. Among other interesting remains about the town is an ancient hospital, dedicated to St. John, now converted into a farm-house. This borough returns one member to parliament, as it did before the pa.s.sing of the Reform Bill. The electors of the old const.i.tuency were but 18 in number, but the 10. householders are about 365. The borough comprises the parish, and the returning-officer is the Mayor.

_Market_, Thursday.--_Fairs_, Thursday after Jan. 18, for cattle, horses, and sheep: first Thursday in Lent; second Thursday before Easter, cattle and sheep; Ascension Day; Thursday and Friday in Trinity week; August 13, horses, cows, and sheep; Thursday after Old Michaelmas, hogs and cheese; October 30; and second Thursday before Christmas. Cheese, hops, and cattle.--_Mail_ arrives 4.15 morning; departs 10.34 night.--_Bankers_, (Old Bank) Cobb and Co., draw on Jones, Lloyd, and Co.; Gibbons and Co., draw on Robarts and Co.; Gillett and Co., draw on Esdaile and Co.--_Inns_, Red Lion, and White Lion.

[Sidenote: Cheese and cakes.]

[Sidenote: Battle of Banbury.]

[Sidenote: Once a celebrated grammar school.]

[Sidenote: Electors.]

Map Names of Places. County. Number of Miles From +--+-------------------+----------+------------+-------------+ 50 Bangor[A] city & pa Caernarvon Caernarvon 9 Aberconway 15 +--+-------------------+----------+------------+-------------+ Dist. Map Names of Places. Number of Miles From Lond. Population.

+--+-------------------+-----------------------+-----+-------+ 50 Bangor[A] city & pa Holyhead 24 245 4751 +--+-------------------+-----------------------+-----+-------+

[A] BANGOR, which signifies the beautiful choir, is a Bishop's See; compared to its former size, it is now but an inconsiderable place. It is seated at the mouth of the Menai, near its opening to the Lavan sands, in a narrow valley, between two low ridges of slate rock, opening to the south, towards the majestic mountain, Snowdon, which rises 3571 feet above the level of the sea. Mr. Warner, the intelligent Welsh tourist, and his companion, spoke in raptures of this place. The beauty, repose, and retirement of the whole pleased them wonderfully. The latter observed, "If he were Bishop of Bangor, the only translation he would covet would be, thence to heaven." The former agreed with him, that "Were fate to throw him also into such a spot, very few attractions would have sufficient force to elicit him from it." They had "Never seen a place which united so many beauties in so narrow a circle." From this city the new road finds its way through a low pa.s.s in the adjacent ridge, and descends gently along the face of the sloping bank to the great bridge: this road is very smooth and well protected, and worthy of the magnificent scenery by which it is surrounded. Menai suspension bridge is distant about two miles and a half from Bangor. This n.o.ble bridge is subst.i.tuted for the inconvenient ferry; it is 100 feet above the level of high water, even at spring tides. The cathedral is a low plain building, dedicated to St. Deiniol, to whom it owed its origin about the year 525, and he was elected the first bishop in 550. He was the son of Dinothus, Abbot of Bangor-iscoed, and reared under the auspices of a Welsh prince, patron of the bard Talliesin, and perhaps the most liberal prince of his time. In 1402 it was burnt down, during the rebellion of Owen Glendower; and what is rather singular, it was suffered to remain in ruins during the s.p.a.ce of 90 years, when the choir was rebuilt by the Bishop in the reign of Henry VII. But that cruel ravager of ecclesiastical property, Bishop Bulkeley, not only alienated the lands belonging to the cathedral, but even had the audacity to sell the bells of the church. The choir is fitted up in a style of neat and simple elegance, and ornamented with an excellent organ, the gift of Dr.

Thomas Lloyd, in 1779. The chapter consists of a dean, three archdeacons, two precentors, two vicars choral, six minor canons, six lay clerks, and eight choristers, with an income of 2,000. per annum.

The windows of the cathedral were formerly very handsomely ornamented with stained gla.s.s, but in the civil wars of Charles I. the soldiers destroyed these, amongst other things. The most conspicuous monument in this building is that erected to the memory of Owen Gwynedd, one of the ancient princes of Wales. Here are several Dissenting meeting-houses, and the town is the resort of many visitors during the summer season; upwards of 50,000 annually are said to remain for longer or shorter periods. Steam-packets ply between this place and Liverpool.

_Market_, Friday.--_Fairs_, April 5; June 25; September 16; and October 28.--_Mail_ arrives at Menai Bridge 4.15 morning; departs 8.32 afternoon.

[Sidenote: The suspension bridge.]

[Sidenote: Cathedral.]

Map Names of Places. County. Number of Miles From +--+------------------+----------+---------------+------------+ 53 Bangor[A] vil & pa Flint Ellesmere 11 Overton 3 27 Banham pa Norfolk East Harling 5 Buckenham 2 45 Bank-Newton to W.R. York Skipton 5 Settle 11 9 Banks to c.u.mberland Carlisle 13 Brampton 3 27 Banningham pa Norfolk Aylesham 3 N. Walsham 5 37 Banstead[B] pa Surrey Ewell 3 Croydon 6 34 Banwell[C] pa Somerset Axbridge 4 Bristol 18 21 Bapchild pa Kent Sittingbourne 2 Milton 3 40 Barbon chap Westmorl. Kirkby Lons. 3 Sedbergh 7 +--+------------------+----------+---------------+------------+ Dist. Map Names of Places. Number of Miles From Lond. Population.

+--+------------------+-----------+--------------+-----+------+ 53 Bangor[A] vil & pa Wrexham 5 174 1389 27 Banham pa Diss 7 92 1297 45 Bank-Newton to Burnley 15 221 125 9 Banks to Longtown 14 314 296 27 Banningham pa Cromer 9 121 369 37 Banstead[B] pa Sutton 3 15 991 34 Banwell[C] pa Fensford 16 130 1623 21 Bapchild pa Faversham 6 41 319 40 Barbon chap Kendal 11 258 318 +--+------------------+--------------------------+-----+------+

[A] BANGOR ISCOED is situated on the banks of the river Dee, which here pa.s.ses under a bridge of five arches. This place, at present very inconsiderable, is famed on account of having been the site of the most ancient monastery in the kingdom, founded by Lucius, the son of Coel, the first Christian King of Britain, sometime previous to the year 180.

This abbey was remarkable for its valuable library, and the number of learned men trained within its venerable walls. Gildas Ninnius, who lived in the 7th century, was one of its abbots. He wrote in Latin an incorrect history of England, which is still extant. According to Speed, this monastery, in the year 596, contained no less than 2,400 monks, 100 of which pa.s.sed in their turns one hour of devotion; there are no remains of the monastery existing.

[Sidenote: The first abbey established in Britain.]