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In this Atlantic valley, as is almost every where the case in the configuration of large continental ma.s.ses, coasts deeply indented, and rich in islands, are situated opposite to those possessing a different character.
I long since drew attention to the geognostic importance of entering into a comparison of the western coast of Africa and of South America within the tropics. The deeply curved indentation of the African continent at Fernando Po, 4 degrees 30' north lat.i.tude, is repeated on the coast of the Pacific at 18 degrees 15' south lat.i.tude, between the Valley of Arica and the Morro de Juan Diaz, where the Peruvian coast suddenly changes the direction from wouth to north which it had previously followed, and inclines to the northwest. This change p 293 of direction extends in like manner to the chain of the Andes, which is divided into two parallel branches affecting not only the littoral portions,* but even the eastern Cordilleras.
[footnote] *Humboldt, in Poggendorf's 'Annalen der Physik', bd. xl., s.
171. On the remarkable fiord formation at the southeast end of America, see Darwin's Journal ('Narrative of the Voyages of the Adventure and Beagle', vol. iii.), 1839, p. 266. The parallelism of the two mountain chains is maintained from 5 degrees north lat.i.tude. The change in the direction of the coast at Arica appears to be in consequence of the altered course of the fissure, above which the Cordillera of the Andes has been upheaved.
In the latter, civilization had its earliest seat in the South American plateaux where the small Alpine lake of t.i.ticaca bathes the feet of the colossal mountains of Sorata and Illimani. Further to the south, from Valdiva and Chilo? (40 degrees to 42 degrees south lat.i.tude), through the Archipelago 'de los Chonos' to 'Terra del Fuego', we find repeated that singular configuration of 'fiords' (a blending of narrow and deeply-indented bays), which in the Northern hemisphere characterizes the western sh.o.r.es of Norway and Scotland.
These are the most general considerations suggested by the study of the upper surface of our planet with reference to the form of continents, and their expansion in a horizontal direction. We have collected facts and brought forward some a.n.a.logies of configuration in distant parts of the earth, but we do not venture to regard them as fixed laws of form. When the traveler on the declivity of an active volcano, as, for instance, of Vesuvius, examines the frequent partial elevations by which portions of the soil are often permanently upheaved several feet above their former level, either immediately precediing or during the continuance of an eruption, thus forming roof-like or flattened summits, he is taught how accidental conditions in the expression of the force of subterranean vapors, and in the resistance to be overcome, may modify the feeble perturbations in the equilibrium of the internal elastic forces of our planet may have inclined them more to its norther than to its southern direction, and caused the continent in the eastern part of the globe to present a broad ma.s.s, whose major axis is almost parallel with the equator, while in the western and more oceanic part the southern extremity is extremely narrow.
Very little can be empirically determined regarding the causal connection of the phenomena of the formation of continents, or of the a.n.a.logies and contrasts presented by their p 294 configuration. All that we know regarding this subject resolves itself into this one point, that the active cause is subterranean; that continents did not arise at once in the form they now present, but were, as we have already observed, increased by degrees by means of numerous oscillatory elevations and depressions of the soil, or were formed by the fusion of separate smaller continental ma.s.ses. Their present form is, therefore, the result of two causes, which have exercised a consecutive action the one on the other; the first is the expression of subterranean force, whose direction we term accidental, owing to our inability to defint it, from its removal from within the sphere of our comprehension, while the second is derived from forces acting on the surface, among which volcanic eruptions, the elevation of mountains, and currents of sea water play the princ.i.p.al parts. How totally different would be the condition of the temperature of the earth, and consequently, of the state of vegetation, husbandry, and human society, if the major axis of the New Continent had the same direction as that of the Old Continent; if, for instance, the Cordilleras, instead of having a southern direction, inclined from east to west; if there had been no radiating tropical continent, like Africa, to the south of Europe; and if the Mediterranean, which was once connected with the Caspian and Red Seas, and which has become so powerful a means of furthering the intercommunication of nations, had never existed, or if it had been elevated like the plains of Lombardy and Cyrene?
The changes of the reciprocal relations of height between the fluid and solid portions of the earth's surface (changes which, at the same time, determine the outlines of continents, and the greater or lesser submersion of low lands) are to be ascribed to numerous unequally working causes. The most powerful have incontestably been the force of elastic vapors inclosed in the interior of the earth, the sudden change of temperature of certain dense strata,* the unequal secular loss of p 295 heat experienced by the crust and nucleus of the earth, occasioning ridges in the solid surface, local modifications of gravitation,** and, as a consequence of these alterations, in the curvature of a portion of the liquid element.
[footnote] *De la Beche, 'Sections and Views ill.u.s.trative of Geological Phenomena', 1830, tab. 40; Charles Babbage, 'Observations on the Temple of Serapis at Pozzuoli, near Naples, and on certain Causes which may produce Geological Cycles of great Extent', 1834. "If a stratum of sandstone five miles in thickness should have its temperature raised about 100 degrees, its surface would rise twenty-five feet. Heated beds of clay would, on the contrary, occasion a sinking of the ground by their contraction." See Bischof, 'Wurmelehre des Innern unseres Erdkorpers', s. 303, concerning the calculations for the secular elevation of Sweden, on the supposition of a rise by so small a quant.i.ty as 7 degrees in a stratum of about 155,000 feet in thickness, and heated to a state of fusion.
[footnote] **The opinion so implicitly entertained regarding the invariability of the force of gravity at any given point of the earth's surface, has in some degree been controverted by the gradual rise of large portions of the earth's surface. See Bessel, 'Ueber Maas und Gewicht', in Schumacher's 'Jahrbuch fur' 1840, s. 134.
According to the views generally adopted by geognosists in the present day and which are supported by the observation of a series of well-attested facts, no less than by a.n.a.logy with the most important volcanic phenomena, it would appear that the elevation of continents is actual, and not merely apparent or owing to the configuration of the upper surface of the sea. The merit of having advanced this view beloongs to Leopold von Buch, the narrative of his memorable 'Travels through Norway and Sweden' in 1806 and 1807.*
[footnnote] *Th. ii. (1810), s. 389. See Hallstrom, in 'Kongl.
Vetenskaps-Academiens Handlingar' (Stockh.), 1823, p. 30; Lyell in the 'Philos. Trans.' for 1835; Blom (Amtmann in Budskerud), 'Stat. Beschr. von Norwegen',1843, s. 89-116. If not before Von Buch's travels through Scandinavia, at any rate before their publication, Playfair, in 1802, in his ill.u.s.trations of the Huttonian theory, 393, and according to Keilhau ('Om Landjardens Stigning in Norge', in the 'Nyt Magazine fur Naturvidenskaberne'), and the Dane Jessen, even before the time of Playfair, had expressed the opinion that it was not the sea which was sinking, but the solid land of Sweden which was rising. Their ideas, however, were wholly unknown to our great geologist, and exerted no influence on 'Norge fremstillet efter dets naturlige og borgerlige Tilstand', Kjobenh., 1763, sought to explain the causes of the changes in the relative levels of the land and sea, basing his views on the early calculations of Celsius, Kalm, and Dalin. He broaches some confused ideas regarding the possibility of an internal growth of rocks, but finally declares himself in favor of an upheaval of the land by earthquakes, "although," he observes, "no such rising was apparent immediately after the earthquake of Egersund, yet the earthquake may have opened the way for other causes producing such an effect."
While the whole coast of Sweden and Finland, from Solvitzborg, on the limits of Northern Scania, past Gefle to Tornea, and from Tornea to Abo, experiences a gradual rise of four feet in a century, the southern part of Sweden is, according to Neilson, undergoing a simultaneous depression.*
[footnote] *See Berzelius, 'Jahrsbericht uber die Fortschritte der Physichen Wiss.', No. 18, s. 686. The islands of Saltholm, opposite to Copenhagen, and Bjornholm, however, rise but very little -- Bjornholm scarcely one foot in a century. See Forchhammer, in 'Philos. Magazine', 3d Series, vol. ii., p. 309.
The maximum of this elevating p 296 force appears to be in the north of Lapland, and to diminish gradually to the south toward Calmar and Solvitzborg. Lines marking the ancient level of the sea in pre-historic times are indicated throughout the whole of Norway,*
from Cape Lindesnaes to the extremity of the North Cape, by banks of sh.e.l.ls identical with those of the present seas, and which have lately been most accurately examined by Bravais during his long winter sojourn at Bosekop.
[footnote] *Keilhan, in 'Nyt Mag. fur Naturvid.', 1832, bd. i., p. 105-254; bd. ii., p. 57; Bravais, 'Surles Lignes d'ancien Niveau de la Mer', 1843, p.
15-40. See, also, Darwin, "on the Parallel Roads of Glen-Roy and Lochaber,"
in 'Philos. Trans. for' 1839, p. 60.
These banks lie nearly 650 feet above the present mean level of the sea, and reappear, according to Keilhau and Eugene Robert, in a north-northwest direction on the coasts of Spitzbergen, opposite the North Cape. Leopold von Buch, who was the first to draw attention to the high banks of sh.e.l.ls at Tromsoe (lat.i.tude 69 degrees 40'), has, however, shown that the more ancient elevations on the North Sea appertain to a different cla.s.s of phenomena, from the regular and gradual retrogressive elevations of the Swedish sh.o.r.es in the Gulf of Bothnia. This latter phenomenon, which is well attested by historical evidence, must not be confounded with the changes in the level of the soil occasioned by earthquakes, as on the sh.o.r.es of Chili and of Cutch, and which have recently given occasion to similar observations in other countries. It has been found that a perceptible sinking resulting from a disturbance of the strata of the upper surface sometimes occurs, corresponding with an elevation elsewhere, as, for instance, in West Greenland, according to Pingel and Graah, in Dalmatia and in Scania.
Since it is highly probable that the oscillatory movements of the soil, and the rising and sinking of the upper surface, were more strongly marked in the early periods of our planet than at present, we shall be less surprised to find in the interior of continents some few portions of the earth's surface lying below the general level of existing seas. Instances of this kind occur in the soda lakes described by General Andreossy, the small bitter lakes in the narrow Isthmus of Suez, the Caspian Sea, the Sea of Tiberias, and especially the Dead Sea.*
[footnote] *Humboldt, 'Asie Centrale', t. ii., p. 319-324; t. iii., p.
549-551. The depression of the Dead Sea has been successively determined by the barometrical measurements of Count Berton, by the more careful ones of Russegger, and by the trigonometrical survey of Lieutenant Symond, of the Royal Navy, who states that the difference of level between the surface of the Dead Sea and the highest houses of Jaffa is about 1605 feet. Mr.
Alderson, who communicated this result to the Geographical Society of London in a letter, of the contents of which I was informed by my friend, Captain Washington, was of opinion (Nov. 28, 1841) that the Dead Sea lay about 1400 feet under the level of the Mediterranean. A more recent communication of Lieutenant Symond (Jameson's 'Edinburgh New Philosophical Journal', vol.
x.x.xiv., 1843, p. 178) gives 1312 feet as the final result of two very accordant trigonometrical operations.
The level of the water in the two last-named seas is p 297 666 and 1312 feet below the level of the Mediterranean. If we could suddenly remove the alluvial soil which covers the rocky strata in many parts of the earth's surface, we should discover how great a portion of the rocky crust of the earth was then below the present level of the sea. The periodic, although irregularly alternating rise and fall of the water of the Caspian Sea, of which I have myself observed evident traces in the northern portions of its basin, appears to prove,* as do also the observations of Darwin on the coral seas,** that without earthquakes, properly so- called, the surface of the earth is capable of the same gentle and progressive oscillations as those which must have prevailed so generally in the earliest ages, when the surface of the hardening crust of the earth was less compact than at present.
[footnote] *'Sur la Mobilite du fond de la Mer Caspienne', in my 'Asie Centr.', t. ii., p. 283-294. The Imperial Academy of Sciences of St.
Petersburgh in 1830, at my request, charged the learned physicist Lenz to place marks indicating the mean level of the sea, for definite epochs, in different places near Baku, in the peninsula of Abscheron. In the same manner, in an appendix to the instructions given to Captain (now Sir James C.) Ross for his Antarctic expedition, I urged the necessity of causing marks to be cut in the rocks of the southern hemisphere, as had already been done in Sweden and on the sh.o.r.es of the Caspian Sea. Had this measure been adopted in the early voyages of Bougainville and Cook, we should now know whether the secular relative changes in the level of the seas and land are to be considered as a general, or merely a local natural phenomenon, and whether a law of direction can be recognized in the points which have simultaneous elevation or depression.
[footnote] **On the elevation and depression of the bottom of the South Sea, and the diffrent areas of alternate movements, see Darwin's 'Journal', p. 557, 561-566.
The phenomena to which we would here direct attention remind us of the instability of the present order of things, and of the changes to which the outlines and configuration of continents are probably still subject at long intervals of time. That which may scarcely be perceptible in one generation, acc.u.mulates during periods of time, whose duration is revealed to us by the movement of remote heavenly bodies. The eastern coast of the Scandinavian peninsula has probably risen p 298 about 320 feet in the s.p.a.ce of 8000 years; and in 12,000 years, if the movement be regular, parts of the bottom of the sea which lie nearest the sh.o.r.es, and are in the present day covered by nearly fifty fathoms of water, will come to the surface and const.i.tute dry land. But what are such intervals of time compared to the length of the geognostic periods revealed to us in the stratified series of formations, and in the world of extinct and varying organisms! We have hitherto only considered the phenomena of elevation; but the a.n.a.logies of observed facts lead us with equal justice to a.s.sume the possibility of the depression of whole tracts of land. The mean elevation of the non-mountainous parts of France amounts to less than 480 feet. It would not, therefore, require any long period of time, compared with the old geognostic periods, in which such great changes were brought about in the interior of the earth, to effect the permanent submersion of the northwestern part of Europe, and induce essential alterations in its littoral relations.
The depression and elevation of the solid or fluid parts of the earth -- phenomena which are so opposite in their action that the effect of elevation in one part is to produce an apparent depression in another -- are the causes of all the changes which occur in the configuration of continents.
In a work of this general character, and in an impartial exposition of the phenomena of nature, we must not overlook the 'possibility' of a diminution of the quant.i.ty of water, and a constant depression of the level of seas.
Thgere can scarcely be a doubt that, at the period when the temperature of the surface of the earth was higher, when the waters were inclosed in larger and deeper fissures, and when the atmosphere possessed a totally different character from what it does at present, great changes must have occurred in the level of seas, depending upon the increase and decrease of the liquid parts of the earth's surface. But in the actual condition of our planet, there is no direct evidence of a real continuous increase or decrease of the sea, and we have no proof of any gradual change in its level at certain definite points of observation, as indicated by the mean range of the barometer. According to experiments made by Daussy and Antonio n.o.bile, an increase in the height of the barometer would in itself be attended by a depression in the level of the sea. But as the mean pressure of the atmosphere at the level of the sea is not the same at all lat.i.tudes, owing to meteorological causes depending upon the direction of the wind and varying degrees of moisture, the p 299 barometer alone can not afford a certain evidence of the general change of level in the ocean. The remarkable fact that some of the ports in the Mediterranean were repeatedly left dry during several hours at the beginning of this century, appears to show that currents may by changes occurring in their direction and force, occasion a 'local'' retreat of the sea, and a permanent drying of a small portion of the sh.o.r.e, without being followed by any actual diminution of water, or any permanent depression of the ocean.
We must, however, be very cautious in applying the knowledge which we have lately arrived at, regarding these involved phenomena, since we might otherwise be led to ascribe to water as the elder element, what ought to be referred to the two other elements, earth and air.
As the 'external' configuration of continents, which we have already described in their horizontal expansion, exercises, by their variously indented littoral outlines, a favorable influence on climate, trade, and the progress of civilization, so likewise does their internal articulation, or the vertical elevation of the soil (chains of mountains and elevated plateaux), give rise to equally important results. Whatever produces a polymorphic diversity of forms on the surface of our planetary habitation -- such as mountains, lakes, gra.s.sy savannas, or even deserts encircled by a band of forests -- impresses some peculiar character on the social condition of the inhabitants. Ridges of high land covered by snow impede intercourse; but a blending of low, discontinued mountain chains* and tracts of valleys, as we see so happily presented in the west and south of Europe, tends to the multiplication of meteorological processes and the products of vegetation, and, from the variety manifested in different kinds of cultivation in each district, even under the same degree of lat.i.tude, gives rise to wants that stimulate the activity of the inhabitants.
[footnote] *Humboldt, 'Rel. Hist.', t. iii., p. 232-234. See also, the able remarks on the configuration of the earth, and the position of its lines of elevation in Albrechts von Roon, 'Grundzugen der Erd Volker und Staatenkunde', Abth. i., 1837, s. 158, 270, 276.
Thus the awful revolutions, during which, by the action of the interior on the crust of the earth, great mountain chains have been elevated by the sudden upheaval of a portion of the oxydized exterior of our planet, have served, after the establishment of repose, and on the revival of organic life, to furnish a richer and more beautiful variety of individual forms, and in a great measure to remove from the earth that aspect of dreary p 300 uniformity which exercises so impoverishing an influence on the physical and intellectual powers of mankind.
According to the grand views of Elie de Beaumont, we must ascribe a relative age to each system of mountain chains* on the supposition that their elevation must necessarily have occurred between the period of the deposition of the vertically elevated strata and that of the horizontally inclined strata running at the base of the mountains.
[footnnote] *Leop. von Buch, 'Ueber die Geognostischen Systeme von Deutschland', in his 'Geogn. Briefen an Alexander von Humboldt', 1824, s.
265-271; Elie de Beaumont, 'Recherches sur les Revolutions de la Surface du Globe', 1829, p. 297-307.
The ridges of the Earth's crust -- elevations of strata which are of the same geognostic age -- appear, moreover, to follow one common direction.
The line of strike of the horizontal strata is not always parallel with the axis of the chain, but intersects it, so that, according to my views,* the phenomenon of elevation of the strata, which is even found to be repeated in the neighboring plains, must be more ancient than the elevation of the chain.
[footnote] *Humboldt, 'Asie Centrale', t. i., p. 277-283. See, also my 'Essai sur le Gis.e.m.e.nt des Roches', 1822, p. 57, and 'Relat. Hist.', t.
iii., p. 244-250.
The main direction of the whole continent of Europe (from southwest to northeast) is opposite to that of the great fissures which pa.s.s from northwest to southeast, from the mouths of the Rhine and Elbe, through the Adriatic and Red Seas, and through the mountain system of Putschi-Koh in Luristan, toward the Persian Gulf and the Indian Ocean. This almost rectangular intersection of geodesic lines exercises an important influence on the commercial relations of Europe, Asia, and the northwest of Africa, and on the progress of civilization on the formerly more flourishing sh.o.r.es of the Mediterranean.*