Cooley's Cyclopaedia of Practical Receipts Volume Ii Part 308

2. (Magendie.) Sulphate of quinine, 14 gr.; sherry, 1 quart; agitate frequently for some time. "The sulphate of quinine requires to be dissolved in a little dilute sulphuric acid before it is added to the wine." (Dr Hayes.)--_Dose_, 1 wine-gla.s.sful, as a tonic and stomachic.

=Wine of Quinine, Aromatic.= _Syn._ VINUM QUINIae AROMATIc.u.m. DR COLLIER'S AROMATIC QUININE WINE. _Prep._ Disulphate of quinine, 18 gr.; citric acid, 15 gr.; sound orange wine, 1 bottle (24 fl. oz.).

=Wine of Rhu'barb.= _Syn._ VINUM RHEI (B. P., Ph. E. & D.), L. TINCTURA RHaeI VINOSA. _Prep._ 1. (B. P.) Rhubarb, in coa.r.s.e powder, 1-1/2; canella bark, 1/8; sherry, 20; macerate seven days, filter, and make up to 20.--_Dose_, 1 to 2 dr.

2. (Ph. B.) Rhubarb, in coa.r.s.e powder, 5 oz.; canella, in coa.r.s.e powder, 2 dr.; proof spirit, 5 fl. oz.; sherry, 1-3/4 pint; macerate for 7 days, press, and filter.

3. (Ph. D.) Rhubarb, 3 oz.; canella, 2 dr.; sherry, 1 quart; macerate 14 days. Weaker than the last.--_Dose._ As a stomachic, 1 to 3 fl. dr.; as a purgative, 1/2 to 1 fl. oz., or more. It does not keep well.

=Wine of Sarsaparilla.= _Syn._ VINUM SARSAPARILLae (Beral). _Prep._ Alcoholic extract of sarsaparilla, 1 oz.; white wine, 16 oz.

=Wine of Senna.= _Syn._ VINUM SENNae (Ph. Swed.). _Prep._ Senna, 4 oz.; coriander seed, 2 dr.; fennel seed, 2 dr.; sherry, 2-1/2 lbs. Digest for 3 days, add stoned raisins, 3-1/2 oz. Macerate for 24 hours, and strain with expression.

=Wine of Squills.= _Syn._ VINUM SCILLae (P. Cod.). _Prep._ Dried squills, 3 oz.; Malaga wine, 2-1/2 pints. Macerate for 10 days.

=Wine of Squills, Bitter.= _Syn._ VINUM SCILLITIc.u.m AMARUM (P. Cod.). Pale Peruvian bark, 6 oz.; winter's bark, 6 oz.; lemon peel, 6 oz.; swallow-wort, 1-1/2 oz.; angelica root, 1-1/2 oz.; squill, 1-1/2 oz.; wormwood, 3 oz.; balm, 3 oz.; jumper berries, 1-1/2 oz.; mace, 1-1/2 oz.; white wine, 2-1/2 galls.; proof spirit, 1 pint. Macerate for 10 days.

=Wine of Squills, Compound.= _Syn._ VINUM SCILLae COMPOSITUM (Richter).

_Prep._ Dried squill, 1 oz.; orange peel, 3 dr.; juniper berries, 2 dr.; white wine, 2-1/2 pints. Digest for 3 days, filter, and add 2 oz. of oxymel of squills.

=Wine of Stramonium.= _Syn._ VINUM STRAMONII (Ph. Bat.). _Prep._ Stramonium seeds, 2 oz.; Malaga wine, 8 oz.; rectified spirit, 1 oz.

Digest and filter.

=Wine of Tobac'co.= _Syn._ VINUM TABACI (Ph. E.), L. _Prep._ (Ph. E.) Tobacco, 3-1/2 oz.; sherry, 1 quart; digest 7 days, strain, with strong pressure, and filter. A powerful sedative and diuretic.--_Dose_, 10 to 30 drops; in dropsy, lead colic, ileus, &c.

=Wine of Vipers.= _Syn._ VINUM VIPERINUM (Ph. L., 1746). _Prep._ Dried vipers, 2 oz.; white wine, 3 lbs. Macerate for 7 days.

=Wine of White Hel'lebore.= _Syn._ VINUM VERATRI (Ph. L.), TINCTURA VERATRI ALBI, L. _Prep._ (Ph. L.) White h.e.l.lebore, sliced, 8 oz.; sherry wine, 1 quart; digest for 7 days, press, and filter.--_Dose_, 10 drops, gradually increased to 25 or 30; as a subst.i.tute for colchic.u.m, in gout and rheumatism, &c. It is less manageable than wine of colchic.u.m, and is now seldom employed.

=Wine of White h.e.l.lebore (Opiated).= _Syn._ MOORE'S EAU MeDICINALE; VINUM VERATRI OPIATUM, L. _Prep._ From wine of white h.e.l.lebore, 3 fl. dr.; tincture of opium, I fl. dr.--_Dose._ As the last.

=Wine of Wormwood.= _Syn._ VINUM ABSINTHII (P. Cod.). _Prep._ Dried wormwood leaves, 3 oz.; white wine, 5 pints; proof spirit, 6 oz. Macerate the leaves in the spirit, in 24 hours add the wine, macerate for 10 days, and strain.

=Wines, Medicated (Dr B. Lane's).= _Syn._ VINOUS ESSENCES; ESSENTIae VINOSae, LIQUORES VINOSI, L. _Prep._ From an infusion or solution of the drug, of about 3 or 4 times the usual strength, fermented with a little yeast, and about 3 or 4 lbs. of sugar per gallon; the fermented liquor being afterwards set in a cool cellar until fit for bottling. Compounds of CALUMBA, CASCARILLA, GENTIAN, OPIUM, RHUBARB, SENNA, and VALERIAN, have been thus prepared. That of OPIUM is made of only twice the strength of the common tincture.

=WINE-STONE.= CRUDE TARTAR or ARGOL.

=WINE TESTS.= _Prep._ 1. (Hahnemann's.) From quicklime, 1 oz.; flowers of sulphur, 1-1/2 oz.; mix, and heat them in a covered crucible for 5 or 6 minutes; put 2 dr. of the product and an equal weight of tartaric acid (separately powdered), into a stoppered bottle, with a pint of water, and shake them well; let the liquid settle, pour off the clear portion, and add of tartaric acid, 1-1/2 dr.

2. (Dr Paris's.) From sulphide of calcium and cream of tartar, of each (in powder), 1/2 oz.; hot water, 1 pint; agitate, &c., as before; decant the cold clear liquid into 1-oz. phials, and add 20 drops of hydrochloric acid to each of them.

_Obs._ The above tests will throw down the least quant.i.ty of lead from wines, as a very sensible black precipitate. As iron might be accidentally contained in the wine, the hydrochloric acid is added to the last test, to prevent the precipitation of that metal.

=WIN'TER-GREEN (American).= _Syn._ PIPSISSEWA; CHIMAPHILA (Ph. L. & E.).

PYROLA (Ph. D.), L. The herb of _Chimaphila umbellata_. It is astringent, diuretic, tonic, and stomachic; and has been successfully administered in loss of appet.i.te, dyspepsia, dropsy, chronic affections of the urinary organs, scrofula, &c. It must not be confounded with ordinary winter-green (box berry, chequer b., partridge b., mountain tea), which is the _Gaultheria proc.u.mbens_, a plant belonging to the _Ericaceae_, whilst the former plant belongs to a genus of the _Pyrolaceae_. See DECOCTION, EXTRACT, and OILS (Essential).

=WIREWORM.= The Editor is indebted to Dr Spencer Cobbold, F.R.S., for the following communication on this subject:--"Dear Prof. Tuson,--You asked me about the remedies for wireworm. Although a great deal has been said on the subject, yet it is not easy to advise. I believe the _best plan_ is to 'catch-'em-alive' by means of sliced potatoes, turnips, or carrots laid in rows, women and children being employed every morning to pick up the slices, and brush off the larvae into a jar (the slices being replaced). Mr Hogg (the Ettrick Shepherd) found lettuce leaves very serviceable when laid as a bait in a similar way. Pheasants are very destructive to them.

As agriculturists do not like the trouble and expense of this baiting method (by far the best if persevered in) some have recommended deep ploughing, &c. The following extract taken from the 'Journal of the Agricultural Society, of Victoria,' bears on the question at issue.

Trusting it may be found useful, believe me, yours faithfully, T. SPENCER COBBOLD."

"_Remedy for Wireworm._--Having seen in your issue of the 24th ult. that 'B,' would be glad if any one could give any information as to a remedy for the ravages of the wireworm, which plays such havoc in our corn fields during the early part of the growth of our cereal crops, I beg to offer a few observations on the subject. I have for years paid particular notice as to any remedy or preventive, and it is with regard to the latter that I shall chiefly confine my remarks, as there is positively no known remedy when once the insects have attacked the crop. Some persons recommend the application of lime or salt, but it is a well-known fact that if either of these is applied in such quant.i.ty as to destroy the worm, it will likewise destroy vegetation, and consequently the crop will be entirely lost; and not alone this crop, but the soil will be poisoned to such an extent as to injure succeeding crops. What I have found most successful is deep ploughing, not what is ordinary called deep ploughing, 7 or 8 inches, but to the depth of at least 10 or 12, where the soil will admit of it. The wireworm lives not more than 4 inches below the surface, and by burying it 10 or 12 inches it is found that it cannot again make its way to the surface, and consequently can do no injury to surface-rooted plants, such as the grain crops. The operation of ploughing should be performed as follows: a strong skim coulter is attached to the beam of an ordinary strong plough, which is drawn by three horses. The skim coulter pares off the surface, which is buried underneath the sod turned over by the mould-board. Or it is sometimes performed in a different way. A small plough, drawn by one horse, precedes the ordinary plough, skimming off the surface exactly the same as the skim coulter. So much for a preventive. As to remedy, what I have found most effectual is heavy rolling, using, if possible, such a roller as that called the Crosskill, which crushes the insects, killing some, and preventing others doing much damage until the crop is sufficiently far advanced as not to be affected by the insect.--JOHN THOMAS, 32, Capel Street, Dublin."

=WITCH MEAL.= _Syn._ VEGETABLE SULPHUR, LYCOPODIUM. The spores of _Lycopodium clavatum_, or club moss.

=WOAD.= _Syn._ DYER'S WOAD; PASTEL, Fr. The _Isatis tinctoria_. To prepare them for the dyer, the leaves are partially dried and ground to a paste, which is made into b.a.l.l.s; these are placed in heaps, and occasionally sprinkled with water, to promote the fermentation; when this is finished, the woad is allowed to fall down into lumps, which are afterwards reground and made into cakes for sale. On mixing the prepared woad with boiling water, and, after standing for some hours in a closed vessel, adding about 1-20th its weight of newly slaked lime, digesting in a gentle warmth, and stirring the whole together every 3 or 4 hours, a new fermentation begins; a blue froth rises to the surface, and the liquor, though it appears itself of a reddish colour, dyes woollens of a green, which, like the green from indigo, changes in the air to a blue. This is said to be one of the nicest processes in the art of dyeing, and does not well succeed on the small scale. Woad is now mostly used in combination with indigo. 50 lbs. of woad are reckoned equal to 1 lb. of indigo.

=WOL'FRAM.= See TUNGSTEN.

=WOLFS'BANE.= See ACONITE.

=WOOD= is polished by carefully rubbing down the grain with fine gla.s.s paper, or pumice-stone, and then rubbing it, first with finely-powdered pumice-stone and water, and afterwards with tripoli and linseed oil, until a proper surface is obtained. For common purposes, gla.s.s paper, followed by a metal burnisher, is employed.

Wood is stained by the application of any of the ordinary liquid dyes employed for wool or cotton. They sink deeper into the wood when they are applied hot. When the surface is properly strained and dried, it is commonly cleaned with a rag dipped in oil of turpentine or boiled oil, after which it is either varnished or polished with beeswax. Musical instruments, articles of the toilette, &c., are usually treated in this way.

Wood is preserved by any agents which destroy the tendency to putrefaction of the matter within its pores, or which enables it to resist the attacks of insects, or renders it unsuited to the growth of minute fungi. See DRY-ROT.

=WOOD NAPH'THA.= See SPIRIT (Pyroxylic).

=WOOD OIL.= See BALSAM, GURGUN.

=WOODY FIBRE.= See LIGNIN.

=WOODY NIGHT'SHADE= BITTER-SWEET, _Solanum dulcamara_.

=WOOL.= _Syn._ LANA, L. Wool is a fine, soft, elastic variety of hair, cellulated in its structure. Its filaments are cylindrical, like those of silk; but the surface is covered with thin scales or epidermic cells. In the finer qualities, these filaments vary in thickness from 1/1100 to 1/1500 of an inch; and under a good microscope distinctly exhibit, at intervals of about 1/300 of an inch, a series of serrated rings, imbricated towards each other, "like the joints of equisetum, or, rather, like the scaly zones of a serpent's skin." These appearances render it almost impossible to mistake wool for silk, linen, or cotton. From experiments made by different competent authorities, it is found that wool is one of the worst conductors of heat known. This property renders woollen fabrics particularly adapted for clothing in cold, damp, and changeable climates, since it enables them to maintain the surface of the body at a proper and equable temperature. Wool, sometimes, however, proves too irritative for highly sensitive skins, and, moreover, disturbs the electricity of the cutaneous surface, on friction, even more than silk. On these accounts there are persons who find it unpleasant to wear woollen garments, of any description, next the skin; in which cases all the advantages that can be derived from their use may be obtained by wearing them outside one of linen or cotton. According to Erasmus Wilson, this method "is preferable in warm weather, since the linen absorbs the perspiration, while the woollen garment preserves the warmth of the body, and prevents the inconvenience resulting from its evaporation." See FLANNEL.

_Identif._ 1. By the microscope. (See _above_.)

2. Its fibres, when inflamed, shrivel up, and burn with difficulty, and evolve the peculiar and characteristic odour of hair when similarly treated, leaving a bulky charcoal; whereas cotton and linen burn rapidly, leave no charcoal, and evolve little or no odour. Silk acts in nearly the same manner as wool.

3. Nitric acid, picric acid, and gaseous chlorine, stain the fibres of wool and silk yellow. Dr J. J. Pohl recommends an aqueous or alcoholic solution of picric acid as well adapted for a test--After immersion of a small portion of the fabric or yarn for from 5 to 10 minutes in the solution, it is to be taken out, and washed in warm water. The linen and cotton in it will then appear white, but the wool, silk, or other animal fibre, will retain its yellow colour. In stuffs, cloths, flannel, &c., the mixed threads may be readily observed by means of a pocket lens, and their relative numbers may be ascertained by means of a 'thread counter.' This test acts best with white, but is also applicable to many other colours.

For dark colours nitric acid is preferable.

4. A square inch of the fabric or a small portion of the yarn, is boiled for a short time in a solution of caustic soda or pota.s.sa, and then withdrawn and washed. If it be of pure wool, it will be dissolved, and wholly disappear; if any threads or fibres are left undissolved, they consist of either cotton or linen; of these, such as have acquired a dark yellow tinge, are linen, whilst those which have retained their whiteness, or which are only slightly discoloured, are cotton. The relative proportion of the adulteration may be ascertained as before. See COTTON, LINEN, and SILK.

Wool and woollen goods exhibit a greater affinity for colouring matter than either cotton or linen, and in many cases this exceeds even that of silk. The most difficult dye to impart to wool is a rich, deep, and permanent black. See DYEING, MORDANTS, &c.

Woollen goods are cleaned and scoured in the manner noticed under BLEACHING and SCOURING.

=Wool, Spanish.= Rouge-crepons.

=Wool, Styptic.= Dr. Erie, of Isny, prepares this by boiling the finest carded wool for half an hour or an hour in a solution containing 4 per cent. of soda, then thoroughly washes it out in cold spring water, wrings it; and dries it. The wool is thus effectually purified, and is now capable of imbibing fluids uniformly. It is then to be dipped two or three times in fluid chloride of iron diluted with one-third of water, expressed and dried in a draught of air, but not in the sun or by the aid of high heat; finally, it is carded out. Thus prepared, it is of a beautiful yellowish-brown colour, and feels like ordinary dry cotton wool.

As it is highly hygroscopic, it must be kept dry, and when required to be transported, must be packed in caoutchouc or bladder. Charpie may be prepared in a similar manner, but on account of its coa.r.s.er texture, is not so effective as cotton wool, presenting a less surface for producing coagulation. When the wool is placed on a bleeding wound, it induces moderate contraction of the tissue, coagulation of the blood that has escaped, and subsequently coagulation of the blood that is contained within the injured vessels, and thus arrests the haemorrhage. The coagulating power of the chloride of iron is clearly exalted by the extension of its surface that is in this way affected. The application of the prepared wool is not particularly painful, whilst by sucking up the superfluous discharge, and preventing its decomposition, it seems to operate favorably on the _process of the wound_.[272]

[Footnote 272: 'Lancet.']

=Wool Work, Woollen Shawls, &c., to clean.=--Boil a large piece of soap in rain-water. Put it into an earthenware pan and add a teacupful of ox-gall, which any butcher will supply. Put in the work to be cleaned, and rub it briskly, as you would a pocket handkerchief, lifting it up and down. Wash in two waters, if very dirty; then rinse quickly in cold water, lay a cloth over it, and fold it tightly. Iron it immediately on the wrong side with hot, heavy irons.