Cooked - A Natural History of Transformat Part 33

Abdelgadir, Warda S., et al. "The Traditional Fermented Milk Products of the Sudan." International Journal of Food Microbiology 44 (1998), 113.

Behr, Edward. "Pushing to a Delicate Extreme: The Cheeses of Soyoung Scanlan." Art of Eating, No. 86 (2010).

Bilger, Burkhard. "Raw Faith." New Yorker, August 19, 2002. An excellent profile of Sister Noella and the controversies surrounding raw-milk cheeses.

Boisard, Pierre. Camembert: A National Myth. Berkeley: University of California, 2003.

Bosco, Antoinette. Mother Benedict: Foundress of the Abbey of Regina Laudus. San Francisco: Ignatius Press, 2007.

Culture: The Word on Cheese. Terrific quarterly magazine covering the art and science of cheese making and occasionally other fermented foods as well.

Johnson, Nathanael. "The Revolution Will Not Be Pasteurized: Inside the Raw Milk Underground." Harper's Magazine, April 2008.

Kindstedt, Paul S. American Farmstead Cheese: The Complete Guide to Making and Selling Artisan Cheeses. White River Junction, VT: Chelsea Green, 2005.

---. Cheese and Culture: A History of Cheese and Its Place in Western Civilization. White River Junction, VT: Chelsea Green, 2012.

Latour, Bruno. The Pasteurization of France. Alan Sheridan and John Law, trs. Cambridge: Harvard University, 1988.

LeMay, Eric. Immortal Milk: Adventures in Cheese. New York: Free Press, 2010.

Mendelson, Ann. Milk: The Surprising Story of Milk Through the Ages. New York: Knopf, 2008.

Montanari, Ma.s.simo. Cheese, Pears & History. New York: Columbia University, 2010.

Paxson, Heather. "Post-Pasteurian Cultures: The Microbiopolitics of Raw-Milk Cheese in the United States." Cultural Anthropology, Vol. 23, Issue 1, 1547. Brilliant a.n.a.lysis of "post-Pasteurian" thinking and my first encounter with that term.

On the Microbiology of Cheese

Marcellino, R.M. Noella. Biodiversity of Geotrichum Candidum Strains Isolated from Traditional French Cheese. A doctoral dissertation, submitted to the University of Connecticut, 2003.

---, and David R. Benson. "Scanning Electron and Light Microscopic Study of Microbial Success on Bethlehem St. Nectaire Cheese." Applied and Environmental Microbiology (November 1992): 344854.

---. "Characteristics of Bethlehem Cheese, an American Fungal-Ripened Cheese," 11420. In T. M. Cogan, P. F. Fox, and R. P. Ross, eds., 5th Cheese Symposium. Teagasc, Dublin, Cork, Ireland, 1997.

---. "The Good, the Bad and the Ugly: Tales of Fungal Ripened Cheese." (In Press: Catherine W. Donnelly, ed. Cheese and Microbes. Herndon, VA: ASW Press, 2013.)

Marcellino, N., et al. "Diversity of Geotrichum candidum Strains Isolated from Traditional Cheesemaking Fabrications in France." Applied and Environmental Microbiology (October 2001): 4752-59.

Sieuwerts, Sander, et al. "Unraveling Microbial Interactions in Food Fermentations: from Cla.s.sical to Genomic Approaches." Applied and Environmental Microbiology (August 2008) 49975007.

On Disgust

Darwin, Charles. The Expression of the Emotions in Man and Animals (1872). Chicago: University of Chicago, 1965.

Kolnai, Aurel. On Disgust. Edited and with an introduction by Barry Smith and Carolyn Korsmyer. Chicago: Open Court, 2004.

Miller, William Ian. The Anatomy of Disgust. Cambridge: Harvard University, 1997.

Rozin, P., J. Haidt, and C. R. McCauley. "Disgust." In M. Lewis and J. Haviland, eds., Handbook of Emotions, second edition. New York: Guilford, 2000, 63753.

Rozin, Paul, and April E. Fallon. "A Perspective on Disgust," Psychological Review 94 (1987): 2341.

On Alcohol and Intoxication

Bamforth, Charles. Food, Fermentation and Micro-organisms. Oxford: Wiley-Blackwell, 2005.

Buhner, Stephen Harrod. Sacred and Herbal Healing Beers: The Secrets of Ancient Fermentation. Boulder, CO: Brewers Publications, 1998. Fascinating research on ancient alcoholic beverages, their psychotropic ingredients, and social role. With recipes.

Edwards, Griffith. Alcohol: The World's Favorite Drug. New York: St. Martin's, 2000.

Euripedes. The Bacchae. C. K. Williams, tr. New York: Farrar, Straus and Giroux. 1990.

Feiring, Alice. Naked Wine: Letting Grapes Do What Comes Naturally. New York: Da Capo, 2011.

Kerenyi, Carl. Dionysos: Archetypal Image of Indestructible Life. Princeton, NJ: Princeton University, 1976.

Lenson, David. On Drugs. Minneapolis, MN: University of Minnesota, 1995. A little-known but brilliant study of intoxication and its role in culture and the arts.

---. "The High Imagination." Delivered as the Hess Lecture at the University of Virginia, April 29, 1999. On the romantic movement and drugs.

McGovern, Patrick E. Uncorking the Past: The Quest for Wine, Beer, and Other Alcoholic Beverages. Berkeley: University of California, 2009. Indispensable archaeological account of early alcoholic beverages and their contribution to civilization.

Otto, Walter F. Dionysus: Myth and Cult. Translated and with an introduction by Robert P. Palmer. Bloomington, IN: Indiana University, 1965.

Palmer, John J. How to Brew: Everything You Need to Know How to Brew Beer Right the First Time. Boulder, CO: Brewers Publications, 2006. Excellent primer.

Phaff, Herman Jan, et al. The Life of Yeasts. Cambridge: Harvard University, 1978.

Siegel, Ronald K. Intoxication: The Universal Drive for Mind-Altering Substances. New York: Dutton, 1989. Especially good on alcohol use by animals.

Standage, Tom. A History of the World in Six Gla.s.ses. New York: Walker & Co., 2005.

Zainasheff, Jamil, and John. J. Palmer. Cla.s.sic Brewing Styles: 80 Winning Recipes Anyone Can Brew. Boulder, CO: Brewers Publications, 2007. A somewhat more advanced guide to beer making; Shane MacKay and I had good results with several of these recipes.

Acknowledgments

Cooked is the story of my education, so I want first to thank all my extraordinary teachers, for their generosity and patience as much as for their knowledge.

In the arts of cooking with fire, I was privileged to learn from a great pit master, Ed Mitch.e.l.l. But I had tutorials with several other masters of smoke and want to thank Francis Mallmann for several inspiring sessions in Texas, Alice Waters for sharing her pa.s.sion for the grill (and her restless flipping technique), and Bittor Arguinonez for admitting me into the sanctuary of his kitchen. I also learned a lot about grilling from Jack Hitt, Mike Emmanuel, and Chuck Adams. Thanks too to Lisa Abend, for her guidance, translation, and good company in Spain, and to Dan Barber for encouraging me to go there in the first place. John T. Edge, at the Southern Foodways Alliance, could not have been more generous with his knowledge and contacts in the barbecue world. Thanks also to Joe Nick Patoski for a memorable introduction to the cuisine that Texans call barbecue, to Greg Hatem for his hospitality in North Carolina, Peter Kaminsky for his insights into both barbecue and pigs, and to "Kitchen Sister" Davia Nelson, for her leads and generosity.

Not only this chapter, but the entire book owes a tremendous debt to Richard Wrangham, for his pathbreaking writings on how cooking made us human, which I've drawn on throughout, and for taking the time to educate me about the "cooking hypothesis."

In learning about cooking in pots (which is to say "cooking," as the term is generally understood), I could not have done better than to apprentice myself to Samin Nosrat, who, besides being a great cook, turns out to be a brilliant teacher as well. Her contribution to this project extends far beyond the dishes and lessons she taught me; she also introduced me to grillers and bakers and fermenters, and was a continual source of timely advice, good company, and general inspiration. Amaryll Schwertner also welcomed me into her kitchen at Boulette's Larder and gave me a valuable lesson on braising, as well as the importance of even the most minor ingredient. Sylvan Mishima Brackett generously taught me how to make the magic water known as dashi. A bit further from the stove, Harry Balzer at the market research firm NPD gave me a graduate education in how Americans eat and think about food. Mark Kurlansky deepened my appreciation for salt, Jerry Bertrand for flavor, Richard Wilk for ritual. My exchanges with, and readings of, Joan Dye Gussow and Janet Flammang proved crucial as I navigated the treacherous waters of gender in the kitchen.