Chincha Plain-weave cloths Part 3

No. of Weave of ground material Weave in stripes specimens

Single warps, single wefts same as ground 1

Single warps, single wefts single and twin warps, single wefts 2

Twin warps, single wefts single warps, single wefts 7

Twin warps, single wefts same as ground 1

Twin warps, single wefts single and twin warps, single wefts 2

COLOR

Fifty-odd yarns, samplings from the striped and plain cloths of the Chincha lots, were matched against the printed samples in Maerz and Paul's _Dictionary of Color_.[8] We found yarns corresponding to thirty-two samples representing five of the eight color groups. We found no dyed yarns in these cloths for colors in the yellow-to-green, the blue-to-red, and the purple-to-red groups. Only four yarns out of three hundred and fifty matched in a previous study,[9] corresponded to colors in the purple-to-red group and these four matched very dark samples on plate 56. The available evidence indicates either that the ancients had not developed dyestuffs to produce such hues as our fuchsias, magentas, and heliotropes or that they did not favor these colors.

Over a dozen yarns matched samples on plates 14 and 15 of the orange-to-yellow groups; as many more matched the browns on plate 37.

Some of the yarns in this series are darker than any of the printed samples on plate 39. The third largest series, approximately twenty, match eight samples in the blue-green-to-blue group. The fewest number represent the green-to-blue-green group. Yarns in four cloths are similar to poplar and bottle greens.

Stripes are in one, two, or three colors (fig. 8). Most of the one-color stripes (approximately 10) are blue (37F3, 37I5), one is an orange-red (5K10), and one clay color (14F8). For the two-color stripes we were able to distinguish blue (37F3), golden browns (approximating 15A12), and orange reds (approximating 5K10). In only one of the six two-color examples, however, were the two colors sufficiently clear to match the printed samples. Specimen 16-1251 combines brown (15A12) and blue (38C3) stripes.

The three-color stripes in the 16-lot were similarly difficult to match with the samples in the Dictionary. Yarns from the four specimens matched samples as follows:

16-1268: yellow (10C7) and two browns (14L10, 15A12)

16-1277: two yellows (11K8 and one other darker than any in the group) and blue (36F6)

16-1283: yellow (9J5), blue (35D4), and one other color too dull to match any printed sample in the blue group

16-1287: yellows and browns (7C12, 11K6, and 14F6)

One three-color specimen in the 4- lot (pl. 6,f) has a number of well-preserved portions. The weaving proper is natural-color white cotton with plaiding in dark brown (15C12) and gray similar to adobe (14D7). The wide edge stripe has the same dark brown, a lighter, more golden brown (14D12), and central pinkish stripes which approximate printed samples 3C10 or 3C11.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Fig. 8. Diagrams of stripings in Chincha plain-weave cloths: a, two-color stripe, blue and natural color cotton; b, two-color stripe, blue and brown on natural-color ground; c, allover stripe of blue on natural-color ground.]

FOOTNOTES:

[8] A. Maerz and M. R. Paul, A Dictionary of Color, 1930.

[9] L. M. O'Neale, Textiles of the Early Nazca Period, p. 144.

SUMMARY

a.n.a.lyses of over a hundred plain-weave cloths in the Max Uhle collection from Late-period sites at Chincha form the material of this report.

The utilitarian character of most of the cloths is conspicuous. A few plain-weave fabrics undoubtedly belong to garments of the better type, although these specimens, too, are without decoration except for stripings.

Measurements and textures suggest that some weavings may have been mantles or other large wrappings. All the intact ends have the customary Peruvian selvages with heavy loomstring wefts. Intact single breadths range in widths between 4 inches and 41 inches. The wider breadths suggest that the loom upon which these specimens were woven was not the type ordinarily attached to the weaver's waist.

Smooth textures and the uniformly good edges indicate that the weaving yarns were of the high quality we have learned to expect in the ancient cloths. Thread counts show a wide range, as shown in figure 5.

Technical features in these plain cloths are the standard ones in most respects. Warp locking of the end-to-end variety and a unique finish on a side selvage are the most noteworthy deviations from the norm.

Perhaps the least expected feature is the patching of weak or worn spots in the cloths. In their present condition, the several repaired examples reveal hard wear subsequent even to the patching.

Ornamentation in the Chincha plain-weave cloths a.n.a.lyzed for this study consists solely of stripes and plaids; an occasional edge finish is as much a strengthening device as a decorative detail. A few cloths are allover striped; a greater number are bordered on one edge with a series of colors, mainly yellow, browns, and blues.

The group as a whole represents the many fabrics which must have been woven solely for ordinary wear or use, being used later as grave wrappings.

PLATES

EXPLANATION OF PLATES

(Numbers preceded by 4- and 16- are University of California Museum of Anthropology specimen-catalogue numbers.)

Plate 1

Chincha doll (4-4116) dressed in sc.r.a.p of plain-weave material. Height overall, 7 inches. Head, a k.n.o.b wrapped with fiber; black human hair folded over top and drawn in at neck with fiber string. Body composed of 2 tortoras separated to form legs; all elements wrapped with fiber and with one extra "toe" applied to each foot. Arms of wrapped tortora with fingers (3) applied at ends.

Garment of plain cotton material torn crosswise; fold at one side; lapped seam held with coa.r.s.e st.i.tches at opposite side; seam across shoulders; no openings for arms. Tatters at bottom edge turned to outside and secured with running st.i.tches. Length 5 inches; breadth 7 inches.

Plate 2

Loomstring ends of Chincha fabrics, a, b, detail of ends of two webs (16-1304b, 16-1270) to show heading strip (1) and weaving proper (2) comparable in texture; (3) section between them, the join, more loosely woven. Width of sections shown, 3.5 inches.

Plate 3

a, b, c, examples of medium-coa.r.s.e Chincha fabrics (16-1282, 16-1217, 16-1252), fair to good qualities of weaving; d, worn material reinforced by patches held down by running st.i.tches (16-1222). Dark section of b, 1.25 inches wide; a and c in proportion; upper patch of d, 9 inches by 6 inches.

Plate 4

Textures of fine fabrics. a, comparable to modern cheesecloth (4-4058b); b, canvaslike (16-1255a); c, open plain weave showing high twist of single-ply yarns (4-3883b).

Plate 5