By Water to the Columbian Exposition Part 1

By Water to the Columbian Exposition.

by Johanna S. Wisthaler.

PREFACE

It has been the aim of the author: to combine a detailed narrative of her trip by water to the White City with a faithful description of the ever memorable Columbian Exposition as far as possible consistent with the scope of this work. Every opportunity has been embraced by the writer to incorporate the historical events, scientific facts, and natural phenomena most appropriate to the subject.

The author also acknowledges her indebtedness to the Lake Sh.o.r.e & Michigan Southern Railway Co. as well as her obligations to the Winters Art Litho Co. in Chicago. She wishes to express her grat.i.tude to the first-mentioned corporation for having presented her with a map ill.u.s.trative of the route; thus enabling the reader to trace the numerous towns and cities--on the Erie Ca.n.a.l and three Great Lakes--whose history and attractions have been depicted in this book.

The Lake Sh.o.r.e Route--selected by the Government to run the famous Fast Mail Trains--is the only double track line between Chicago, Cleveland, Buffalo, New York, and Boston.--During the existence of the White City, the Lake Sh.o.r.e and Michigan Southern Railway Co. placed in service special trains for the purpose of facilitating railway transportation between the eastern cities and the "Queen of the West." The "Exposition Flyer," which accomplished nearly 1,000 miles in twenty hours from Chicago to New York, an average of about fifty miles per hour, was certainly one of the fastest trains in the World.

To the aid of the Winters Art Litho Co. the author owes her capability of furnishing this volume with a novel ill.u.s.tration of the World's Fair.--A gold medal was awarded to this firm for the excellence in their water color fac-simile reproductions and advancement in legitimate lithography.

The credit of improvements in materially reducing the number of printings, and still maintaining excellence in results, was conceded to them by the Judges.--This company kindly permitted the author to use their copyright of the revised and most correct Bird's Eye View of the Exposition Grounds extant, which gives the readers a very adequate conception of that marvelous creation that--while existing only for such a brief period--has accomplished its mission in the highest degree, and has opened a new era in the annals of modern progress.

SCHENECTADY, N.Y., December, 1893.

INTRODUCTION

Experience, this greatest of all teachers, will undoubtedly have convinced many of my readers that the most delightful voyage is only capable of maintaining its charms when made amidst congenial fellow-travelers. The grandest scenes can be fully enjoyed and duly appreciated when viewed through an atmosphere of physical comfort. Thus, in order to demonstrate the accuracy of the a.s.sertion:

Voyaging with Mr. James and his family was attractive and enjoyable to me in every respect,

I must make the reader acquainted with my amiable traveling companions, as well as with their floating home, the beautiful steam yacht "Marguerite."

Her owner, _Captain S. R. James_, is a stately, fine-looking, accomplished gentleman, and quite a linguist. To me it was a source of unusual pleasure to discuss French and German literature occasionally during our voyage with one who has given so much attention to these languages.

Mr. James was styled by the Buffalo Courier "a typical New Yorker;" but he impresses me more as a typified English gentleman of the thorough school, and this impression is confirmed as I reflect upon his conduct to those fortunate enough to be a.s.sociated with him in any capacity.

I trust the reader will pardon me if I warmly eulogize MR. JAMES, his lovely WIFE and their FOUR sweet CHILDREN, together with Miss SARAH E.

CAMPBELL, the very amiable sister of Mrs. James--who were my traveling companions on this eventful trip; for, certainly, I was extremely fortunate in my _compagnons de voyage_, whom I have thus introduced to the reader. They abandoned their lovely home for the purpose of undertaking the gigantic enterprise of making a ca.n.a.l and lake voyage to the White City.

The reader may well judge that sailing on a yacht presents innumerable novelties and advantages not attainable by any other conveyance. Since the parties on board a pleasure-boat concentrate all their thoughts to the expected enjoyments they cast aside all irksome forms and strait-laced habitudes, delivering themselves up to the free air to live less conventionally than at home. The preferableness of such an existence, freed from all unnecessary ceremonies, is still more perceptible when the trip is of long duration and having, moreover, for its terminus the World's Columbian Exposition, a place where the wonders, beauties, and evidences of nature's power and man's skill are gathered from all lands.

The great antic.i.p.ations we had of our unique voyage were justified in every respect. For it offered us the opportunity to store our memories with that which will never die, and to adorn them with pictures whose colors will never fade.

All this will be revealed subsequently to my courteous reader, who is cordially invited to follow me now on board the steam yacht, which formed our home for six eventful weeks.

What first strikes the observer on approaching the "Marguerite," are the graceful lines which run from the sharp, slightly bent stem to the well-rounded stern. So beautiful is her form, and so majestically does she rest upon the water, that you will have no difficulty to recognize her, even at a great distance. You observe that she is painted with taste, and all the mouldings are gilded; you also perceive that the railings are of oak wood, surmounted by finely polished bra.s.s, and the deck of narrow deal planks is as white as snow. There is nothing wanting to make her equipment harmonize with the requirements of the present era. She has a length of a hundred feet, a width of about fifteen, with a draught of five feet eight inches; being fitted out for both steam and sail navigation.

Now, dear reader, let us go below. If you consent, we will first visit the engine-room, since it contains the most essential part of the working machinery. A force of from eighty-five to ninety horse-power is developed to propel the boat. The engine is of the triple expansion type; the diameters of the cylinders being 6-1/2, 10 and 16 inches respectively.

Are you not pleased with this piece of machinery, so elegantly finished and neatly polished? From it you can conclude that the yacht is capable of running with considerable speed, amounting to thirteen miles an hour, if desired.

Let us descend to the cabin next; can anything be more tasteful and convenient? Is it not luxurious? And, although small, does not its very limited s.p.a.ce astonish you when you view so many comforts? This is the dining-room. What can be more complete! Just look at this side-board, with its sumptuous outfit in silver and crystal. _A multum in parvo._

The kitchen is admirably arranged; the s.p.a.cious refrigerator making it possible that a considerable amount of all sorts of provisions and delicacies can be kept on board for some time.

Let us peep into the cozy staterooms. Are they not nicely furnished?

Glance at the large and comfortable berths, which can be extended so as to form double berths, as in a Pullman car. All the rooms receive light, either through side-windows or from the upper deck. Every facility for enjoying open air exercise is offered by the main deck running the whole length of the ship. The portion pertaining to the stern is especially commodious, and const.i.tuted our dining-room on pleasant days. Even when the weather was unfavorable, the awnings which inclosed this delightful place formed an excellent shelter, giving the impression we were living in a large tent.

Thus, you observe, that nothing is omitted to secure comfort. Do you see this electric bell? Well, all the staterooms are provided with such bells, which are connected with the steward's pantry.

Now, let us go forward. These two doors form the entrance to the pilot-house; please, step in. Here is the steering wheel, and by means of these bra.s.s tubes the steersman communicates with the engineer. Look up to the ceiling. It is decorated with mult.i.tudinous charts and maps. Before we leave this room do not forget to glance at the mariner's compa.s.s in its elegant bra.s.s case.

Close by is the entrance to the fore-castle, which contains the men's berths. The crew occupying them consists of the captain, the engineer, the cook, the steward, and the seamen.

There not being accommodation for more female servants, Mrs. James was attended by only one maid. She, however, could easily spare larger retinue, because this excellent girl has a.s.sisted her mistress in performing the manifold domestic duties for more than fourteen years, and during this long period Mrs. James has learned to value her for her dexterity in all female occupations. She is also a faithful guardian of the children for whom she tenderly cares.

Flattering myself that I have given my kind readers a satisfactory, introductory description, I shall now advance with the narrative, and proceed on our journey, traversing the longest artificial waterway ever constructed by human hands; and sailing on the unsteady billows of the great lakes, which contain the largest amount of sweet water on the globe, in order to visit the World's Fair, the grandest and most complete exposition that human eyes ever beheld.

CHAPTER I.

VOYAGE ON THE ERIE Ca.n.a.l FROM JULY 22ND, 10.40 A.M., TILL JULY 29TH, 1.30 P.M.

Finally, the 22nd of July, the day appointed for our departure, had arrived. Great was my satisfaction to find the auspices predicting fine weather; and, indeed, it was as beautiful as if Heaven smiled on our enterprise. When taking leave of my neighbors, it was not at all with a sad sentiment, for I had been well aware that I was going to undertake a trip which but few mortals are so fortunate as to partic.i.p.ate.

Accompanied by my dear parents I went to Dock street, where the "Marguerite" lay all ready for leaving the flourishing city of Schenectady.

My mother, whose domestic duties recalled her to the hearth at home, was compelled to leave me, while my father remained on board the yacht, anxious to enjoy my company as long as circ.u.mstances would permit.

Therefore, he gladly accepted Mr. James's kind invitation to accompany us on our journey for a short distance.

Three intimate friends of Mr. James and his family were also invited guests on the boat. These temporary traveling companions were Dr. A.

Veeder, Lawyer Charles Hastings and Congressman S.J. Schermerhorn, three well known and highly estimated gentlemen from Schenectady.

At 11.40 A.M., Mr. James gave orders to haul in the lines attaching the boat to the sh.o.r.e; and a gun-shot at departing announced to the numerous spectators that the "Marguerite" was on the point to set out for her unusual, but most interesting trip.

We had been sailing only a very short distance, and were just facing the buildings of the General Electric Company, when our attention was attracted by a photographer who seemed to be very desirous of taking a photo of the yacht and her pa.s.sengers; for he aspired to gain the most favorable posture, apparently quite a task under the circ.u.mstances. How well he succeeded in his endeavors, the readers can judge for themselves by glancing at the frontispiece of this book.

Resuming our journey, we soon had opportunity to admire the beautiful and fertile Mohawk Valley, once the home of one of the tribes composing the Five Nations. Arendt Van Curler, the n.o.ble founder of the "Place Beyond the Pines," p.r.o.nounced this picturesque region the most beautiful the eye of man had ever beheld, at a time when the country was yet in its infancy.

Though great changes have taken place since that remote date (1642), the grandeur of the scenes spread before us evidently showed that the country has lost little of its beauty, even at the present day, nothwithstanding the white man has established in many places his smoking factories and noisy looms.

At the second lock Mr. Schermerhorn, who owns a beautiful residence near this place, in the Township of Rotterdam, joined our party, whereupon we continued sailing on the smooth surface of the ca.n.a.l with accelerated speed.

At 2.40 P.M., after having pa.s.sed five locks, we approached _Amsterdam_, an enterprising and prosperous city of over 20,000 inhabitants, located in the midst of romantic scenery. We halted at Port Jackson for a few minutes, since this was the terminus of the voyage of Mr. Hastings and my father.

When parting with me, my father said:

"This short tour has sufficed me to perceive how delightful your voyage promises to be in company with this amiable family. Thus I leave you, feeling very happy that so many pleasures and enjoyments are awaiting you."

I answered his kind words with a hearty parting kiss, as a token of my filial love.

The two gentlemen, after having abandoned the yacht, ascended the bridge that spans the ca.n.a.l at that point; and bidding us farewell once more, they pursued us with their eyes until the graceful lines of the "Marguerite" had become invisible in the distance.