Biba's Northern Italian Cooking Part 2

MAKES ABOUT 2 QUARTS MAKES ABOUT 2 QUARTS 3 carrots 3 carrots 3 celery stalks 3 celery stalks 2 medium zucchini 2 medium zucchini 2 tomatoes 2 tomatoes 1 large onion 1 large onion 10 cups water 10 cups water Salt to taste Salt to taste

Wash vegetables, peel onion and cut the vegetables into small pieces. Add vegetables to a medium pot with water and place on medium heat. When water begins to boil, reduce heat to low and simmer uncovered about 1 hour. Season with salt.

Line a wire strainer with paper towels and strain broth, a few ladles at a time, directly into a large bowl. If you are not planning to use broth right away, cool it to room temperature. It can then be refrigerated for a few days or it can be frozen. Use it as instructed in individual recipes.

PASTINA AND PEAS IN CLEAR BROTH.

Pastina e Piselli in Brodo In Italy a good soup always has, as a base, a good broth. A nice bowl of steaming, flavorful broth with pastina (small pasta) added to it becomes a delightful comforting meal. This is one of the types of soups my mother would prepare for my brother, sister and me, when we were children. And it is the same type of soup I used to prepare for my daughters.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS MAKES 6 SERVINGS 6 cups Meat Broth, page 22, or Chicken Broth, page 23 6 cups Meat Broth, page 22, or Chicken Broth, page 23 4 ounces pastina, such as bow ties or quadrucci, or rice 4 ounces pastina, such as bow ties or quadrucci, or rice 1 pounds fresh peas in their pods, sh.e.l.led, or 1 cup frozen peas, thawed 1 pounds fresh peas in their pods, sh.e.l.led, or 1 cup frozen peas, thawed cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Bring broth to a boil in a medium pot over high heat. Add pastina and fresh peas if using, and when broth comes back to boil, reduce heat to medium and cook, uncovered, until pastina and peas are tender, 3 to 5 minutes. (If using thawed peas instead of fresh, add them to soup during last minute of cooking.)

Ladle soup into individual soup bowls and serve hot with a generous sprinkle of freshly grated Parmigiano.

Variations My father would enrich this type of light fragrant soup with a few beaten eggs stirred into simmering broth during its last few minutes of cooking. When eggs began to solidify and form little strands, he would turn the heat off, ladle the soup into his bowl and top generously with Parmigiano.

Tagliolini in Broth is a cla.s.sic dish of Emilia-Romagna, Lombardy and Piedmont. Simply bring broth to a full boil and drop in 6 ounces of homemade or store-bought tagliolini. Reduce heat to medium and cook until pasta is tender. Serve with freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano.

BEANS, CLAMS AND MALTAGLIATI SOUP.

Zuppa di f.a.gioli, Vongole e Maltagliati This wonderful fragrant soup, which pairs beans, sh.e.l.lfish and pasta, is typical of many parts of Southern Italy.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS MAKES 6 SERVINGS 2 cups dried borlotti or cranberry beans, soaked overnight in cold water to cover generously 2 cups dried borlotti or cranberry beans, soaked overnight in cold water to cover generously 2 quarts (8 cups) cold water 2 quarts (8 cups) cold water 2 to 2 pounds clams, smallest you can get 2 to 2 pounds clams, smallest you can get cup extra-virgin olive oil plus additional to drizzle over soup cup extra-virgin olive oil plus additional to drizzle over soup cup finely minced yellow onion cup finely minced yellow onion cup finely minced carrot cup finely minced carrot cup mixed, finely chopped fresh herbs (parsley, sage, rosemary, mint, marjoram) cup mixed, finely chopped fresh herbs (parsley, sage, rosemary, mint, marjoram) 2 garlic cloves, finely minced 2 garlic cloves, finely minced 2 cups canned Italian plum tomatoes with their juices, put through a food mill to remove seeds 2 cups canned Italian plum tomatoes with their juices, put through a food mill to remove seeds 5 ounces dried small tubular pasta, such as ditalini or small bow ties 5 ounces dried small tubular pasta, such as ditalini or small bow ties

Drain and rinse beans under cold running water. Put them in a large pot, add water and place on high heat. As soon as water comes to a boil, reduce heat to low and simmer uncovered, stirring occasionally, until beans are tender, 45 minutes to 1 hour.

In a food processor, puree about half of beans with a ladle of their cooking water until smooth, and return to pot. Season lightly with salt and pepper and set aside until ready to use.

Soak clams in cold, salted water 20 minutes to purge them, then wash and scrub them well under cold running water. Discard any clams that are broken or already open and won't close when you touch them. Put clams in a large skillet with cup water. Cover skillet and cook over high heat until clams open. Remove them with a slotted spoon to a bowl as they open. Discard any clams that do not open. Bring clam cooking juices back to a boil and cook until liquid is reduced by about half. Strain liquid into a small bowl and set aside.

Heat oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add onion and carrot. Cook, stirring, until vegetables are light golden and soft, about 6 minutes. Add herbs and garlic and cook, stirring, 1 to 2 minutes. Add reserved clam liquid and tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper. As soon as sauce begins to bubble, reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, uncovered, until sauce is reduced by about half, about 10 minutes. Add clams to sauce and cook, stirring, 1 to 2 minutes. Add tomatoes to pot with beans and turn heat to medium-low. Simmer uncovered 4 to 5 minutes.

Meanwhile bring a medium pot of water to a boil. Add a pinch of salt and pasta. Cook uncovered over high heat until pasta is tender but still a bit firm to bite. Drain pasta and add it to soup.Turn heat off under pot and allow soup to rest 10 to 15 minutes. Serve with a light drizzle of olive oil.

Variations If you prefer soup without pasta, you might want to slightly increase amount of clams. Mussels can also be used.

PARMESAN CHEESE, BREAD CRUMB AND NUTMEG SOUP.

Pa.s.satelli in Brodo This is a delicious and unique soup from the Emilia-Romagna region.

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS 10 to 12 cups broth from Mixed Boiled Meats, page 161, or Meat Broth, page 22 10 to 12 cups broth from Mixed Boiled Meats, page 161, or Meat Broth, page 22 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese cup fine, dry unflavored bread crumbs cup fine, dry unflavored bread crumbs teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg 2 large eggs 2 large eggs Additional Parmesan cheese Additional Parmesan cheese

Prepare Meat Broth.

On a pastry board or in a large bowl, combine cup Parmesan cheese, bread crumbs and nutmeg. Mix well. Add eggs. Mix ingredients thoroughly and work into a ball. Dough should be smooth and pliable.

Bring broth to a boil in a large saucepan. Put dough into a ricer or food mill and rice directly into broth. Reduce heat. Simmer 1 to 2 minutes. Serve hot with Parmesan cheese.

BARLEY, POTATOES AND STRING BEAN SOUP.

Zuppa di Orzo, Patate e f.a.giolini There was a time when everyone in Italy made soups. Thick, delicious soups were prepared in winter months, while lighter soups were favored during hot days. Today there seems to be less time to devote to this type of cooking. This thick soup, which has a savory base of onion, carrot, parsley and pancetta, tastes even better the day after. It can be served hot, or at room temperature.

MAKES 10 SERVINGS MAKES 10 SERVINGS 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 2 to 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 to 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 cup finely minced yellow onion 1 cup finely minced yellow onion cup finely minced carrot cup finely minced carrot 2 to 3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf Italian parsley 2 to 3 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf Italian parsley 1 thick slice ( pound) pancetta, finely minced or chopped 1 thick slice ( pound) pancetta, finely minced or chopped 1 cup (about pound) husked, polished pearl barley, washed in several changes of cold water 1 cup (about pound) husked, polished pearl barley, washed in several changes of cold water 2 medium boiling potatoes, peeled and diced into small pieces 2 medium boiling potatoes, peeled and diced into small pieces 2 quarts Meat Broth, page 22, low-sodium canned beef broth or water 2 quarts Meat Broth, page 22, low-sodium canned beef broth or water pound string beans, ends removed, washed and cut into 1-inch pieces pound string beans, ends removed, washed and cut into 1-inch pieces to cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese to cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Heat b.u.t.ter and oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add onion, carrot and parsley and cook, stirring, until vegetables are soft, 6 to 7 minutes. Add pancetta and cook, stirring, 2 to 3 minutes longer, or until it is light golden. Add barley and potatoes, stir 1 to 2 minutes, then add broth. Season with salt. As soon as broth comes to a boil, reduce heat to low and partially cover pot. Simmer, stirring occasionally, about 30 minutes.

Add beans and cook until beans, barley and potatoes are tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Taste, adjust seasoning and turn heat off under pot. Let soup rest about 10 minutes or so before serving with Parmigiano.

LENTIL SOUP.

Zuppa di Lenticchie The flavor of this nutritious soup improves if made one or two days ahead.

MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS 2 cups lentils 2 cups lentils 4 cups Meat Broth, page 22, or 3 cups canned beef broth 4 cups Meat Broth, page 22, or 3 cups canned beef broth 6 to 8 cups water 6 to 8 cups water 2 celery stalks, finely chopped 2 celery stalks, finely chopped 2 carrots, finely chopped 2 carrots, finely chopped 1 cup canned crushed Italian-style or whole tomatoes 1 cup canned crushed Italian-style or whole tomatoes cup olive oil cup olive oil 1 medium onion, finely chopped 1 medium onion, finely chopped 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 2 garlic cloves, chopped 2 garlic cloves, chopped pound pancetta, page 4 chopped pound pancetta, page 4 chopped Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 8 to 10 thick slices Italian bread 8 to 10 thick slices Italian bread 1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese 1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Place lentils in a large bowl. Add enough cold water to cover and let stand overnight. Discard any lentils that float to the surface. Drain and rinse lentils thoroughly.

Prepare Meat Broth. Place lentils in a large saucepan. Add water, broth, celery and carrots. Cover and bring to a boil. Reduce heat. Simmer 50 to 60 minutes, stirring occasionally. Press tomatoes through a food mill or sieve to remove seeds. Heat oil in a small saucepan. Add onion, parsley and garlic. Saute over medium heat 2 to 3 minutes.

Add pancetta. Saute 2 to 3 minutes or until pancetta is lightly browned. Add tomato pulp. Season with salt and pepper. Reduce heat. Cook uncovered 15 to 20 minutes. With a slotted spoon, place a third of lentil mixture in a blender or food processor. Process until smooth. Return to saucepan. Add tomato mixture. Simmer uncovered 10 minutes. Taste and adjust for seasoning.

Toast bread until golden on both sides. Place 1 slice toasted bread in each soup bowl. Sprinkle generously with Parmesan cheese. Ladle soup into bowls. Serve hot or at room temperature.

VEGETABLE SOUP.

Minestrone di Verdura There are as many versions of vegetable soup in Italy as there are cooks.

MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS 8 cups Chicken Broth, page 23, or 4 cups canned chicken broth and 4 cups water 8 cups Chicken Broth, page 23, or 4 cups canned chicken broth and 4 cups water cup olive oil cup olive oil cup chopped parsley cup chopped parsley 4 garlic cloves, chopped 4 garlic cloves, chopped pound pancetta, page 4, finely chopped pound pancetta, page 4, finely chopped 3 cups shredded cabbage 3 cups shredded cabbage 1 medium onion, finely chopped 1 medium onion, finely chopped 2 carrots, finely chopped 2 carrots, finely chopped 1 celery stalk, finely chopped 1 celery stalk, finely chopped 1 potato, peeled, finely chopped 1 potato, peeled, finely chopped 2 zucchini, finely chopped 2 zucchini, finely chopped 1 large tomato, chopped 1 large tomato, chopped pound mushrooms, finely chopped pound mushrooms, finely chopped pound string beans, finely chopped pound string beans, finely chopped 3 or 4 pieces prosciutto rind, page 5, or 1 smoked ham shank 3 or 4 pieces prosciutto rind, page 5, or 1 smoked ham shank Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Prepare Chicken Broth.

Heat oil in a large saucepan. Add parsley and garlic. Saute over medium heat. Before garlic changes color, add pancetta. Saute until lightly browned. Stir in cabbage. Cover and cook 1 to 2 minutes. Add remaining vegetables to saucepan. Cover and cook about 5 minutes.

Add broth and water, if using, and prosciutto rind or ham shank. Cover and reduce heat. Simmer 40 to 50 minutes. Remove half the vegetables with a slotted spoon. Place in a blender or food processor and process until smooth. Return to saucepan. Season with salt and pepper. Serve hot with Parmesan cheese.

Variation Toast about 20 thick slices Italian bread. Place 2 slices in each soup bowl and sprinkle generously with Parmesan cheese. Ladle soup into bowls. Serve with additional Parmesan cheese.

Tip You can transform a vegetable soup into a cream of vegetable soup. Puree the vegetables in a food processor or blender and stir in some cream.

RICE AND PEA SOUP.

Risi e Bisi A cla.s.sic Venetian soup, it should be thick enough to eat with a fork.

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS 8 cups Meat Broth, page 22 8 cups Meat Broth, page 22 cup b.u.t.ter cup b.u.t.ter 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 small onion, chopped 1 small onion, chopped pound pancetta, page 4, chopped pound pancetta, page 4, chopped 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 2 cups fresh peas or frozen peas, thawed 2 cups fresh peas or frozen peas, thawed 2 cups arborio rice, page 5 2 cups arborio rice, page 5 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese plus additional for serving cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese plus additional for serving

Prepare Meat Broth.

Melt 2 tablespoons b.u.t.ter with oil in a medium saucepan.When b.u.t.ter foams, add onion, pancetta and parsley. Saute over medium heat until pancetta is lightly browned. Add peas and cup broth. Cook 2 to 3 minutes; set aside.

Bring remaining broth to a boil in a large saucepan. Add rice. Cook uncovered over high heat 8 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add onion mixture. Cook 10 to 15 minutes or until rice is tender but firm to the bite. Stir in remaining b.u.t.ter and cup Parmesan cheese. Serve hot with additional Parmesan cheese.

MY MOTHER'S BEAN SOUP Zuppa di f.a.gioli alla Maniera di mia Madre There are certain childhood dishes that cannot be forgotten. For me, this hearty soup is one of them.

MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS 2 cups dried pinto beans 2 cups dried pinto beans 4 cups Meat Broth, page 22, or 3 cups canned beef broth 4 cups Meat Broth, page 22, or 3 cups canned beef broth 6 to 8 cups water 6 to 8 cups water 1 large potato, peeled, halved 1 large potato, peeled, halved 1 carrot, halved 1 carrot, halved 1 celery stalk, halved 1 celery stalk, halved 2 to 3 slices prosciutto rind, page 4, or salt pork 2 to 3 slices prosciutto rind, page 4, or salt pork 1 cup canned crushed Italian-style or whole tomatoes 1 cup canned crushed Italian-style or whole tomatoes cup olive oil cup olive oil 3 tablespoons chopped parsley 3 tablespoons chopped parsley 2 garlic cloves, chopped 2 garlic cloves, chopped 1 small onion, chopped 1 small onion, chopped pound pancetta, page 4, chopped pound pancetta, page 4, chopped Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 8 to 10 thick slices Italian bread 8 to 10 thick slices Italian bread 1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese 1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Place beans in a large bowl. Add enough cold water to cover and let stand overnight. Drain and rinse beans thoroughly.

Prepare Meat Broth. Place beans in a large saucepan. Add water, broth, potato, carrot, celery and prosciutto rind or salt pork. Cover and bring to a boil. Reduce heat. Simmer 50 to 60 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Press tomatoes through a food mill or sieve to remove seeds. Heat oil in a medium saucepan. Add parsley, garlic and onion. Saute over medium heat 2 to 3 minutes. Add pancetta. Saute until pancetta is lightly browned. Stir in tomato pulp and season with salt and pepper. Reduce heat. Cook uncovered 15 to 20 minutes.

With a slotted spoon, place potato, carrot, celery and half the beans in a blender or food processor. Process until smooth. Return to saucepan.Add tomato mixture. Simmer uncovered 10 minutes.Taste and adjust for seasoning.

Toast bread until golden on both sides. Place 1 slice toasted bread in each soup bowl. Sprinkle generously with Parmesan cheese. Ladle soup into bowls.

BEAN SOUP VENETO STYLE.

Pasta e f.a.gioli alla Veneta The Veneto region is famous for its marvelous bean soups.

MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS 2 cups dried pinto beans 2 cups dried pinto beans 4 cups Meat Broth, page 22 or 3 cups canned beef broth 4 cups Meat Broth, page 22 or 3 cups canned beef broth 6 to 8 cups water 6 to 8 cups water 6 tablespoons olive oil 6 tablespoons olive oil 2 slices prosciutto rind, page 4, or salt pork 2 slices prosciutto rind, page 4, or salt pork 1 carrot, chopped 1 carrot, chopped 1 celery stalk, chopped 1 celery stalk, chopped 1 medium onion, chopped 1 medium onion, chopped 1 sprig fresh rosemary or 1 teaspoon dried rosemary 1 sprig fresh rosemary or 1 teaspoon dried rosemary 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 2 garlic cloves, chopped 2 garlic cloves, chopped 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour 2 tablespoons tomato paste 2 tablespoons tomato paste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste pound small elbow macaroni, ditalini or arborio rice, page 5 pound small elbow macaroni, ditalini or arborio rice, page 5 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese plus additional for serving cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese plus additional for serving