Biba's Northern Italian Cooking Part 11

Coa.r.s.ely chop rosemary, sage and garlic together. Crush juniper berries; add to rosemary mixture. Rub rabbit pieces with rosemary-juniper mixture. Season with salt and pepper. Put rabbit pieces into a large bowl. Add vinegar and oil. Let marinate in the refrigerator 3 to 4 hours, turning meat a few times.

Place rabbit and marinade in a large, heavy ca.s.serole. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat and cover ca.s.serole. Simmer 40 to 50 minutes, stirring a few times during cooking. Increase heat to medium-high. Cook uncovered until rabbit is tender, 10 to 15 minutes and only a few tablespoons of sauce remain.

Place rabbit on a warm platter.Taste and adjust sauce for seasoning, then spoon over rabbit. Serve immediately.

RABBIT WITH WINE AND VEGETABLES.

Coniglio alla Reggiana Nothing was ever left on our plates after my mother served this special dish.

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS 1 (2- to 3-pound) rabbit 1 (2- to 3-pound) rabbit 1 cups canned crushed Italian-style or whole tomatoes 1 cups canned crushed Italian-style or whole tomatoes cup b.u.t.ter cup b.u.t.ter pound pancetta, page 4, cut into 4 slices and diced pound pancetta, page 4, cut into 4 slices and diced 2 large onions, thinly sliced 2 large onions, thinly sliced 1 carrot, finely chopped 1 carrot, finely chopped 1 celery stalk, finely chopped 1 celery stalk, finely chopped cup dry white wine cup dry white wine Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 2 garlic cloves, chopped 2 garlic cloves, chopped

Cut rabbit into serving pieces or ask the butcher to do so.Wash and dry thoroughly.

Press tomatoes through a food mill or sieve to remove seeds. Melt b.u.t.ter in a large heavy ca.s.serole. When b.u.t.ter foams, add rabbit pieces, pancetta, onions, carrot and celery. Cook over medium heat until rabbit is golden on all sides. Stir in wine and cook until wine has evaporated. Add tomato pulp. Season with salt and pepper.

Cover ca.s.serole and cook over medium heat 30 to 40 minutes, stirring mixture a few times during cooking. Add parsley and garlic. Cook covered until meat is tender, 20 to 25 minutes longer. Place rabbit on a warm platter.Taste and adjust sauce for seasoning, then spoon over rabbit. Serve hot.

PHEASANT WITH MUSHROOMS.

f.a.giano con i Funghi Serve this with a steaming hot dish of Polenta, page 86.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS MAKES 4 SERVINGS 1 ounce dried wild Italian mushrooms or 1 ounce dried wild Italian mushrooms or pound fresh mushrooms, thinly sliced pound fresh mushrooms, thinly sliced 1 cup warm water, if using dried mushrooms 1 cup warm water, if using dried mushrooms 2 tablespoons olive oil, if using fresh mushrooms 2 tablespoons olive oil, if using fresh mushrooms 1 (2- to 3-pound) domestic pheasant 1 (2- to 3-pound) domestic pheasant 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons olive oil Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste cup brandy cup brandy 1 carrot, finely chopped 1 carrot, finely chopped 1 medium onion, finely chopped 1 medium onion, finely chopped 1 celery stalk, finely chopped 1 celery stalk, finely chopped 3 fresh sage leaves or 3 fresh sage leaves or teaspoon rubbed sage teaspoon rubbed sage 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 2 tablespoons chopped parsley cup dry Marsala wine or port cup dry Marsala wine or port 2 cups canned crushed Italian-style or 2 cups canned crushed Italian-style or whole tomatoes whole tomatoes

If using dried mushrooms, soak in warm water 20 minutes. Drain mushrooms, reserving liquid. Strain mushroom liquid. Rinse mushrooms under cold running water. Squeeze to remove as much moisture as possible. If using fresh mushrooms, saute in 2 tablespoons oil or until golden; set aside.

Divide pheasant into 4 pieces. Wash and dry pheasant pieces thoroughly. Melt b.u.t.ter with 2 tablespoons oil in a large heavy ca.s.serole.When b.u.t.ter foams, add pheasant. Brown on all sides over medium heat. Season with salt and pepper.Add brandy and cook until brandy is reduced by half. Add carrot, onion, celery, sage and parsley. Saute until lightly browned. Add Marsala or port and cook 1 to 2 minutes longer.

Press tomatoes through a food mill or sieve to remove seeds. Stir tomato pulp into ca.s.serole. Cover ca.s.serole and reduce heat. If using dried mushrooms, add to ca.s.serole with reserved liquid. Simmer 50 to 60 minutes or until pheasant is tender. Turn meat occasionally during cooking. Cook uncovered 10 to 15 minutes longer. If using sauteed fresh mushrooms, add to sauce during last 5 minutes of cooking, Place pheasant on a warm platter.Taste and adjust sauce for seasoning, then spoon over pheasant. Serve immediately.

PHEASANT WITH GIN AND JUNIPER BERRIES.

f.a.giano al Gin e Bacche di Ginepro Gin and juniper berries give a distinctive flavor to this succulent dish.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS MAKES 4 SERVINGS 1 cups dry white wine 1 cups dry white wine 2 tablespoons juniper berries 2 tablespoons juniper berries 1 teaspoon black peppercorns 1 teaspoon black peppercorns 1 (2- to 3-pound) domestic pheasant 1 (2- to 3-pound) domestic pheasant Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 6 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 6 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 2 carrots, finely chopped 2 carrots, finely chopped 1 medium onion, finely chopped 1 medium onion, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped pound pancetta, page 4, cut into 4 slices and diced pound pancetta, page 4, cut into 4 slices and diced Grated zest of 1 lemon Grated zest of 1 lemon 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour cup gin cup gin Juice of 1 lemon Juice of 1 lemon

Combine wine, juniper berries and peppercorns in a small bowl. Let stand 2 hours.

Wash and dry pheasant thoroughly. Season with salt and pepper inside bird and outside.Tie firmly with kitchen twine to retain its shape. Melt 5 tablespoons b.u.t.ter in a large heavy ca.s.serole. When b.u.t.ter foams, add pheasant breast-side down. Brown on all sides over medium heat. Add carrots, onion, garlic and pancetta. Saute until lightly browned. Drain juniper berries and peppercorns, reserving wine. Crush juniper berries and peppercorns. Pour wine over pheasant. When wine is reduced by half, add juniper berries, peppercorns and lemon zest. Cover ca.s.serole. Cook over medium heat 1 hours or until pheasant is tender. Place pheasant on a cutting board. Combine 1 tablespoon b.u.t.ter and flour and work into a small ball. Raise heat. Stir gin and lemon juice into ca.s.serole. Add b.u.t.ter-flour ball and mix until well blended, about 1 minute. Press sauce through a sieve into a warm bowl. Cut pheasant into 4 pieces. Arrange on a warm platter.Taste and adjust sauce for seasoning, then spoon over pheasant. Serve immediately.

STUFFED CHICKEN b.r.e.a.s.t.s.

Involtini di Pollo con Prosciutto e Formaggio Fontina or Parmesan cheese paired with sage makes an intriguing combination.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS MAKES 4 SERVINGS 3 whole chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s 3 whole chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s 6 slices (about 6 slices (about pound) prosciutto, page 4 pound) prosciutto, page 4 6 slices (about 2 ounces) Italian fontina cheese, or 6 tablespoons Parmesan cheese 6 slices (about 2 ounces) Italian fontina cheese, or 6 tablespoons Parmesan cheese 3 fresh sage leaves 3 fresh sage leaves 1 cup all-purpose flour 1 cup all-purpose flour 1 cup milk 1 cup milk 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 chicken bouillon cube, crushed 1 chicken bouillon cube, crushed 1 cup dry white wine 1 cup dry white wine Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste cup whipping cream cup whipping cream

Skin, bone and split chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s. Put 1 slice prosciutto, 1 slice fontina cheese or 1 tablespoon Parmesan cheese, and half a sage leaf on each breast. Roll up chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s and secure with wooden picks. Spread flour on aluminum foil. Dip chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s in milk, then roll in flour to coat.

Melt b.u.t.ter with oil in a large skillet. When b.u.t.ter foams, add chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s. Cook over medium heat until golden on all sides. Add bouillon cube and cup of the wine to chicken. Season with salt and pepper and cook until wine is reduced by half. Add remaining wine. Cover skillet and reduce heat. Simmer 15 to 20 minutes or until chicken is tender.Turn chicken several times during cooking. Add a little more wine if sauce looks too dry.

Place chicken on a warm platter. Increase heat and add cream. Deglaze skillet by stirring to dissolve meat juices attached to bottom of skillet. Taste and adjust sauce for seasoning, then spoon over chicken. Serve immediately.

CHICKEN b.r.e.a.s.t.s WITH MARSALA WINE.

Petti di Pollo al Marsala Elegant yet economical, this dish is an all-time favorite.

MAKES 8 SERVINGS MAKES 8 SERVINGS 4 whole chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s 4 whole chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s 2 eggs 2 eggs Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 1 cups dry unflavored bread crumbs 1 cups dry unflavored bread crumbs cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese cup b.u.t.ter cup b.u.t.ter 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 cup dry Marsala wine or port 1 cup dry Marsala wine or port

Remove skin from chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s. Ease flesh away from bones with a sharp knife. Cut boned b.r.e.a.s.t.s in half. Beat eggs with salt and pepper in a medium bowl. Combine bread crumbs and Parmesan cheese in a small bowl. Spread on aluminum foil. Dip chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s in beaten eggs, then coat with bread crumb mixture. Press mixture onto chicken with the palms of your hands. Let coated chicken stand 10 to 15 minutes.

Melt b.u.t.ter with oil in a large heavy skillet.When b.u.t.ter foams, add chicken b.r.e.a.s.t.s. Cook over medium heat until chicken has a light-golden crust, 2 to 3 minutes on each side. Add Marsala or port. Cover skillet and reduce heat. Simmer 15 to 20 minutes or until chicken is tender. If sauce looks too dry, add a little more Marsala or port. Turn chicken several times during cooking.

Place chicken on a warm platter. Taste and adjust sauce for seasoning, then spoon over chicken. Serve immediately.

CHICKEN HUNTER STYLE.

Pollo alla Cacciatora This is the way we make this popular dish in Emilia-Romagna.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS MAKES 4 SERVINGS 1 ounce dried wild Italian mushrooms or 1 ounce dried wild Italian mushrooms or pound fresh mushrooms, thinly sliced pound fresh mushrooms, thinly sliced 1 cup warm water, if using dried mushrooms 1 cup warm water, if using dried mushrooms 2 tablespoons olive oil, if using fresh mushrooms 2 tablespoons olive oil, if using fresh mushrooms 2 cups canned crushed Italian-style or whole tomatoes 2 cups canned crushed Italian-style or whole tomatoes 1 (3- to 3-pound) frying chicken, cut into serving pieces 1 (3- to 3-pound) frying chicken, cut into serving pieces cup all-purpose flour cup all-purpose flour 3 to 4 tablespoons olive oil 3 to 4 tablespoons olive oil 2 garlic cloves 2 garlic cloves 1 medium onion, thinly sliced 1 medium onion, thinly sliced pound pancetta, page 4, cut into pound pancetta, page 4, cut into 4 slices and diced 4 slices and diced cup dry Marsala wine or dry white wine cup dry Marsala wine or dry white wine Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

If using dried mushrooms, soak in warm water 20 minutes. Drain mushrooms, reserving liquid. Strain mushroom liquid. Rinse mushrooms under cold running water. Squeeze to remove as much moisture as possible. If using fresh mushrooms, saute in 2 tablespoons oil until golden; set aside.

Press tomatoes through a food mill or sieve to remove seeds.

Wash and dry chicken pieces thoroughly. Spread flour on aluminum foil. Coat chicken pieces with flour. Heat 3 to 4 tablespoons oil in a large heavy ca.s.serole. Add garlic and chicken. Brown chicken on all sides over medium heat. Discard garlic. Remove chicken from ca.s.serole. Add onion to ca.s.serole and saute until pale yellow. Add pancetta and saute a few minutes longer.

Return chicken to ca.s.serole. Increase heat and add Marsala or white wine and cook until wine is reduced by half. Add tomato pulp. If using dried mushrooms, add to chicken mixture with reserved liquid. Cover ca.s.serole and reduce heat. Simmer 30 to 40 minutes or until chicken is tender.Turn and baste chicken a few times during cooking. If using sauteed fresh mushrooms, add to ca.s.serole during last 5 minutes of cooking. Season with salt and pepper. Serve hot.

BROILED CORNISH HENS.

Pollastrino, alla Diavola Cornish hens make perfect subst.i.tutes for the small, young chickens used in Italy.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS MAKES 4 SERVINGS 4 Cornish hens 4 Cornish hens cup olive oil cup olive oil Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Lemon wedges Lemon wedges Parsley Parsley

Cut Cornish hens lengthwise along entire backbone. Open out Cornish hens until flat. Place skin side down on a cutting board. With a large cleaver or meat pounder, flatten Cornish hens without breaking bones.Wash and dry thoroughly.

Combine oil, salt and plenty of pepper in a small bowl. Brush Cornish hens on both sides with oil mixture. Place in a large shallow dish. Pour remaining oil over hens. Refrigerate 2 to 3 hours, basting several times with oil mixture.

Preheat broiler or prepare barbecue. Arrange Cornish hens skin side facing heat. Cook 10 to 15 minutes. If skin turns too dark, adjust position of Cornish hens.Turn and baste with marinade. Cook 10 to 15 minutes longer or until tender. Season with additional pepper. Place on warm platter. Garnish with lemon wedges and parsley. Serve immediately.

ROASTED CHICKEN WITH VEGETABLES.

Pollo e Verdure Arrosto Crisp chicken with roasted vegetables makes a great whole meal in a pan.

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS 1 (4-pound) roasting chicken, rinsed and patted dry 1 (4-pound) roasting chicken, rinsed and patted dry cup olive oil cup olive oil 2 rosemary sprigs, chopped, or 2 tablespoons dried rosemary, crumbled 2 rosemary sprigs, chopped, or 2 tablespoons dried rosemary, crumbled 6 to 7 fresh sage leaves, chopped, or 1 teaspoon dried sage, finely crumbled 6 to 7 fresh sage leaves, chopped, or 1 teaspoon dried sage, finely crumbled 2 garlic cloves, chopped 2 garlic cloves, chopped Salt and freshly ground black pepper to Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste taste 1 lemon, halved 1 lemon, halved 1 pound potatoes, cut into large pieces 1 pound potatoes, cut into large pieces 2 large carrots, cut into chunks 2 large carrots, cut into chunks 2 red sweet peppers, cut into large strips 2 red sweet peppers, cut into large strips

Preheat oven to 425F (220C). Put the chicken in a large roasting pan. Coat it with oil and rub it inside and out with rosemary, sage and garlic. Season with salt and black pepper. Place one half of lemon inside the chicken cavity and squeeze the other half over chicken. Roast 30 to 40 minutes, basting several times with the pan juices.

Add potatoes, carrots and peppers. Bake, basting chicken occasionally, 30 to 40 minutes longer. Chicken is done when juices from the thigh run clear when thigh is pierced with a fork.

TURKEY BREAST BOLOGNA STYLE.

Petto di Tacchino alla Bolognese From Bologna, a cla.s.sic but simple dish.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS MAKES 6 SERVINGS 2 pounds turkey scaloppine 2 pounds turkey scaloppine cup all-purpose flour cup all-purpose flour Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 2 tablespoons tomato paste 2 tablespoons tomato paste cup water cup water 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons olive oil cup dry Marsala wine or sherry cup dry Marsala wine or sherry cup whipping cream cup whipping cream pound prosciutto, page 4, or boiled ham, sliced pound prosciutto, page 4, or boiled ham, sliced About About cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Place turkey scaloppine between 2 pieces of waxed paper and pound lightly.When pounding meat do not use a straight up-and-down movement. Use a sliding action so meat is stretched more than flattened. Place scaloppine on aluminum foil. Coat meat lightly with flour. Sprinkle with salt and pepper.

Dilute tomato paste in the water. Melt b.u.t.ter with oil in a large heavy skillet.When b.u.t.ter foams, add turkey. Cook over high heat until lightly browned, about 1 minute on each side. Place turkey on a warm platter.

Add Marsala or sherry to skillet. Deglaze by stirring to dissolve meat juices attached to bottom of skillet. Add cream and stir until bubbling. Stir diluted tomato paste into cream mixture. Place 1 slice prosciutto or boiled ham over each scaloppine and sprinkle with 1 tablespoon Parmesan cheese. Return to skillet. Cover and reduce heat. Simmer 3 to 5 minutes or until cheese is melted.

Place scaloppine on a warm platter. Taste and adjust sauce for seasoning, then spoon over turkey. Serve immediately.

TURKEY STUFFED WITH CHESTNUTS.

Tacchino Ripieno You can find dried chestnuts in Italian specialty stores.

MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS MAKES 8 TO 10 SERVINGS Chestnut Stuffing Chestnut Stuffing pound dried chestnuts pound dried chestnuts pound pitted prunes pound pitted prunes pound sweet Italian sausage pound sweet Italian sausage pound pancetta, page 4, cut into 4 slices and diced pound pancetta, page 4, cut into 4 slices and diced 1 cup chopped walnuts 1 cup chopped walnuts 2 pears 2 pears 2 apples 2 apples Salt to taste Salt to taste cup brandy cup brandy 1 (10- to 12-pound) turkey 1 (10- to 12-pound) turkey Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste cup b.u.t.ter, melted cup b.u.t.ter, melted Leaves from 1 sprig fresh rosemary or 1 teaspoon dried rosemary Leaves from 1 sprig fresh rosemary or 1 teaspoon dried rosemary 1 sprig fresh sage or 1 sprig fresh sage or teaspoon rubbed sage teaspoon rubbed sage About About cup dry white wine cup dry white wine cup Chicken Broth, page 23, canned chicken broth or dry white wine cup Chicken Broth, page 23, canned chicken broth or dry white wine