Bell's Cathedrals: The Cathedral Church of Salisbury Part 4

=The Eastern Aisle= is not so important as similar "processionals" at Exeter, Winchester, and some other English churches; still, the grace of its cl.u.s.tered columns, like those of the Lady Chapel, give it a character of its own.

[Ill.u.s.tration: PISCINA IN THE SOUTH CHOIR AISLE.]

=The Lady Chapel=, originally separated from the choir, thrown into the presbytery by Wyatt for the sake of his much overrated vista, is once again partially hidden by the reredos and the grille work of the screen on either side. As the earliest portion of the building, and the only part Bishop Poore lived to see completed, it would not lack interest, were it commonplace in character; but it is on the contrary a particularly graceful example of its time. The whole chapel is divided into a nave and side aisles by single and cl.u.s.tered shafts of Purbeck marble. These extremely slender shafts look unequal to the heavy groined roof they support; for although nearly thirty feet high, the four largest are not quite ten inches in diameter, while the cl.u.s.tered ones are mere rods. Francis Price, whose interest in the building, as he showed throughout his monograph, was that of a practical builder, was "amazed at the vast boldness of the architect, who certainly piqued himself on leaving to posterity an instance of such small pillars bearing so great a load. One would not suppose them," he says, "to stand so firm of themselves as even to resist the force of an ordinary wind." The modern colouring of this part of the building, including the low eastern aisle immediately behind the reredos, is claimed to be an exact restoration of the original, but it is hardly agreeable. The black of the newly polished marble shafts, the dull green of other parts, with the red, green, and white of the vaulting ribs, is more bizarre than beautiful. In regarding traces of mediaeval colouring one often forgets that time has blended harmoniously a scheme otherwise entirely crude, and to modern taste unpleasing. How far in English instances this is emphasized by the absence of rich hangings, carpets, vestments, and pictures, it is not within our subject to inquire; but since such restoration of the primitive colouring offends one less in churches that still preserve the more ornate furniture of the Roman Ritual, it is at least a moot point.

The triple lancet east window at the end of the Lady Chapel was filled formerly with stained gla.s.s, representing "The Resurrection," after a design by Sir Joshua Reynolds; it is now replaced by modern gla.s.s in memory of the late Dean Lear. An altarpiece, composed of fragments of the destroyed Hungerford and Beauchamp Chapels, was set up here by Wyatt. It has lately been replaced by a triptych designed by Sir Arthur Blomfield, with very beautiful panels painted by Mr.

Buckeridge. The seven-branched candlesticks in black-wood, silver mounted, are by the same architect. The altar frontal, designed by Mr.

Sidney Gambier Parry, and worked by Mrs. Weigall, is so good that it must not be overlooked. The altar itself is of stone from an old altarpiece. Under the windows runs a series of niches, once in the Beauchamp Chapel. Above these rich and delicate canopies, with foliage and fan-tracery springing from corbelled heads, runs an exquisitely sculptured frieze.

In this place, after he was canonized in 1456, the shrine of St.

Osmund was erected. His supposed tomb, moved by Wyatt to the nave, is now replaced between the Lady Chapel and the southern aisle. Of the shrine no trace remains; but legends of the miracles worked at it, and the special indulgences granted to the pilgrims who visited it, prove that it existed on this spot. The date MXCIX. inscribed upon this slab has been questioned, on the authority of a diary made by Captain Symons (in 1644), now in the British Museum, in which an entry occurs with reference to this inscription, "a blew stone rising four ynches from the ground, the east end narrower than the west, this lately written Anno MXCIX.," but whether he means to infer that it was lately restored, or that the date itself was a later addition, is not quite clear. The characters of the inscription Planche pointed out correspond in form with those at the time of William the Conqueror, and as sepulchral effigies are uncommon until the middle of the twelfth century, the presumption is in its favour; still it is somewhat pathetic to find that the evidence which serves to connect this otherwise unknown monument with the famous St. Osmund, the greatest figure, not merely of the cathedral, but of the English Church of his time, is not absolutely beyond suspicion. Yet even if the Roman numerals were a later addition, it is hardly credible that the shrine of so popular a saint could have been wrongly identified.

When Wyatt, according to his usual habit, explored the interior of the tomb, nothing was found within it.

[Ill.u.s.tration: ALTAR AND TRIPTYCH REREDOS IN THE LADY CHAPEL.

_From a Photograph by Witcomb and Son, Salisbury._]

In 1540 Leland saw here a "ballet," which he transcribes for his Itinerary, with an inscription commanding the faithful to pray for the repose of the soul of Richard Poore.

=Monuments in the Transept, Choir and Lady Chapel.=--The most important on the west wall of the north great transept is a bra.s.s (21) in memory of John Britton, who did so much to revive a taste for archaeology and ecclesiastical art by his splendid series of monographs on the cathedrals, and his topographical works. A fine monument of its cla.s.s is one by Bacon (22), which represents Moral Philosophy mourning over a medallion of James Harris, author of "Hermes" and father of the first Earl of Malmesbury; to whose memory close by is a full-length portrait figure by Chantrey. A figure (23) of Benevolence lifting the veil from a bas-relief of the good Samaritan, by Flaxman, commemorates William Benson Earle, Esq., of the Close, Salisbury. On the north wall of this transept is a canopied effigy (24) of a bishop said to represent John Blythe, who died in 1499. It was originally in the ambulatory of the Lady Chapel, behind the high altar, until Wyatt removed it to its present site. In this transept is the statue (25) to Sir Richard Colt h.o.a.re, author of the "Histories of Modern and Ancient Wiltshire," and other works. It is a seated figure not without dignity, by R.C. Lucas, a native of Salisbury. A portrait bust to Richard Jefferies, with a long and eulogistic inscription, is upon a bracket on the west wall.

Two other monuments by Flaxman deserve notice. That to Walter Long, Esq. (26), a medallion supported by two figures representing Justice and Literature, and one (27) to his brother, William Long, in florid Gothic style, with figures of Science and Benevolence. Dr. Waagen, in his "Art Treasures of Great Britain," says: "The three monuments by Flaxman (in Salisbury) two of which are in Gothic taste, prove that he was superior to most English sculptors in knowledge of the architectonic style. There is nothing extraordinary in the design, but the workmanship is good, and there is real feeling in the heads."

In the north choir aisle, at its junction with the great transept, is a large Purbeck marble altar tomb (28), with panels and tracery, despoiled of the bra.s.s legend and armorial bearings it formerly exhibited. This is supposed to have commemorated Bishop Woodville, who died 1484. Two marble slabs that until 1778 were in the floor of this side beneath the first arch of the choir, and in the corresponding place on the south side, have been also stripped of their bra.s.ses which showed them to belong to Bishop Simon of Ghent, 1315, and Bishop Mortival, 1330.

On the bench of this aisle is a figure (29) of a skeleton said to represent a man named Fox, who tried to fast forty days. A similar legend is told of the next figure (30), in memory of Dr. Bennett, Precentor of Salisbury (1541 to 1544). It is needless to say that both stories are mere inventions; in many monuments the effigy of the hero commemorated was shown in full pomp above, while in a niche below the skeleton was depicted, by way of pointing a moral too obvious to need further comment.

A bra.s.s, in replica of the original, has been reinserted in the marble slab that commemorates Bishop Jewell (1560-71) (31). The next monument (32), for a long time attributed to Bishop Bingham (1229-47), has a flat pointed arch terminating in a decorated finial, above which rises a sort of pyramid of three stories, below is a slab formerly inlaid with bra.s.s. Later antiquaries, in spite of the fourteenth century character of its detail, a.s.sign it to Bishop Scammel (1284-87). The Audley chapel (33) is entered from this aisle.

In the north-east choir transept aisle are three gravestones of Bishops Wyville (1375), Gheast (1576), and Jewell (1571), removed from the choir when its marble pavement was laid down. In the floor of this transept, which is known also as the morning chapel, is the famous bra.s.s to Bishop Wyvill (34), one that has been repeatedly figured in various works on memorial bra.s.ses, and it is generally ranked as one of the most interesting of existing examples. Near this is another bra.s.s (35) commemorating Bishop Gheast. The lavatory (36) is noticed elsewhere.

In the Lady Chapel, under an arched niche in the north wall, is a coffin-shaped tomb (37) a.s.signed to Bishop Roger, by those who refuse to accept the effigy in the nave as his monument.

The monument (38) at the end of the north aisle of the Lady Chapel is a typical example of the mixed cla.s.sical style so dear to the early seventeenth century taste. The effigies below its canopy, supported on twisted Corinthian pillars, represent Sir Thomas Gorges and his widow, a maid of honour to Queen Elizabeth. Its medley of obelisks, globes, spheres, and images of the four cardinal virtues is more curious than interesting. Interred near in the choir, and all without monuments are many of the Earls of Pembroke and their wives, including "Sidney's sister, Pembroke's mother."

In a niche of the east wall of the choir, behind an arcade of three pointed arches with cinquefoil heads, is a Purbeck marble effigy (39) of a bishop supposed by many to represent Richard Poore. It has been ascribed to Bishop Bingham because its bearded face fails to agree with that depicted on the seal of Bishop Poore, and also because an entry in an old book of records says that he was buried on the north side of the altar. This monument was removed by Wyatt to the north-east transept, to what is supposed to have been its original position. The effigy, whoever it represents, is a fine one, the pastoral crozier of particularly graceful design; above it is an angel supporting the circle of the sun and the crescent of the moon.

The slab which is believed to commemorate St. Osmund (40) is now restored, and placed where his shrine stood formerly, between the south choir aisle and Lady Chapel.

At the east end of the south aisle is the gorgeous monument (41) to Edward, Earl of Hertford, son of the Protector Somerset, uncle of Edward VI., and of his wife Catherine, sister to Lady Jane Grey. The effigies are both in a praying att.i.tude, the Earl in armour. It is elaborately ornamented and splendid in gold and colours, restored by order of the late Duke of Northumberland. It is more ornate than modern taste desires, but still to call it "stately, though tasteless," as does one chronicler, is somewhat harsher criticism than is justified. It is seen in the ill.u.s.tration of the choir aisle given here.

[Ill.u.s.tration: SOUTH CHOIR AISLE, LADY CHAPEL.

_From a Photograph by Norman._]

In the south wall is an altar tomb (42), now a.s.signed to William Wilton, Chancellor of Sarum (1506-23). On its cornice are shields bearing the device of Henry VIII. and Catherine of Arragon, a rose and a pomegranate; the arms of Bishop Audley, and those of Abingdon Abbey; also the rebus W.I.L. and a Tun.

The monument (43) to Bishop Moberly, designed by Mr. Arthur Blomfield, is an excellent example of the modern revival. The monument (44) to Bishop Hamilton is also interesting as almost the last design prepared by Sir George Gilbert Scott, and one well worthy of its author.

Next to the Hungerford iron chantry (45) is the monument (46) ordinarily a.s.signed to Bishop William of York, but, like many of the bishops' tombs in this cathedral, without any certain clue to its ident.i.ty. It consists of a pointed, crocketed arch, terminating in an elaborate finial; with a flat slab below, originally inlaid with a bra.s.s.

[Ill.u.s.tration: SOUTH CHOIR AISLE, SHOWING THE HUNGERFORD CHAPEL.

_From a Photograph by S.B. Bolas and Co._]

In the south choir transept is the very beautiful chantry (47) to Bishop Giles de Bridport. On either side the gabled roof is carried by two open elaborately moulded arches with quatrefoil heads, inclosing two trefoil arches supported by cl.u.s.tered detached shafts. Each arch has a triangular hood moulding, crocketed with carved finials. The spandrils are ornamented with very interesting carvings. These have been interpreted to mean: on the south side, the birth of the bishop, his confirmation, his education, and possibly his first preferment; on the north, the bishop doing homage for his see, a procession with a cross-bearer (generally accepted as a memorial of the consecration of the building by this bishop); his death; and finally his soul borne up to heaven by an angel with outspread wings.

[Ill.u.s.tration: CHANTRY OF BISHOP BRIDPORT.

_From Britton's "Cathedrals."_]

The rec.u.mbent effigy has figures of censing angels at its head. The whole style of this exquisite structure is akin to that of the cloisters and the chapter house. The artists who executed the sculptures are believed to have been contemporaries of Niccola Pisano.

A chantry was formerly attached to this monument, to the east of which is a double aumbry, or cupboard, for the reservation of the sacrament.

Near this is a tablet to the memory of Canon Bowles, whose edition of Pope plunged him into a bitter controversy with Lord Byron. He was author of many books, including a Life of Bishop Ken. A large modern monument to the late Bishop Burgess is against the south wall. On the west wall is the monument (48) of Bishop Seth Ward, whose additions to the palace, after the Restoration, are mentioned elsewhere. The Izaak Walton, whose gravestone is near, was the son of the famous angler.

Near is one to the memory of the father of the poet Young, and a modern tablet to Richard Hooker, author of "Ecclesiastical Polity."

In the south choir aisle is a rather interesting monument (51) to Bishop Davenant, who is usually credited with the honour of being one of the translators of the Bible. It is of white marble with two black Corinthian pillars, surmounted by a mitre and arms. There is also a tablet in coloured relief to the memory of Mrs. Wordsworth, wife of the bishop; and a bra.s.s, cruciform in shape, inserted in a polished granite slab, which forms a memorial to Canon Liddon.

Many other monuments of ancient and modern date that concern forgotten celebrities, or are of purely local interest, cannot be catalogued.

Nor is it needful to insist on morals they mostly enforce, that really all recent works of this cla.s.s lack the dignity which has given the word monumental a new meaning.

On the bench opposite is the monument (52), an altar tomb with shields and initials, of Bishop Salcot (or Capon), whose notoriety as a "time-serving courtier" is mentioned in another chapter.

A pseudo-cla.s.sical monument near (53), with vine-leaves and grapes in green and gold entwined round black Corinthian pillars, is to the memory of Sir Richard Mompesson, knight, who is represented in armour, and Dame Katherine, his wife, clad in black robe with gold flowers.

[Ill.u.s.tration: THE CHAPTER HOUSE.

_From a Photograph by Carl Norman and Co._]

Close to the south transept, in the choir aisle, is the altar tomb (54) of Bishop Mitford, 1407, which Britton rightly calls a n.o.ble monument. In the spandrils of the flat arch of its canopy are armorial shields. Lilies and birds, holding in their beaks scrolls, inscribed, "Honor Deo et gloria," are on its cornice. The shields on the north bear the bishop's arms and those of his see; on the south are quartered the arms of England and France, and the ensign of Edward the Confessor--the cross _patonee_ surrounded by five martlets.

Here also is a modern altar tomb (55), from a design by Mr. G.E.

Street, to the memory of John Henry Jacob, and a fine Jacobean monument with bust and Latin inscription to Lord Chief Justice Hyde.

Among many other post-reformation monuments are those to: Bishop Fisher (56) on the east wall; a canopied altar tomb (57) in the Gothic style to the memory of Edward and Rachel Poore (died 1780 and 1781), the collateral descendants of the famous bishop, and a marble slab set in a Gothic frame to Canon Hume (died 1834).

On the south wall of the nave (58) there is an effigy of Mrs. Eleanor Sadler, who died July 30th, 1622, and was interred "according to her owne desire under this her pew, wherein with great devotion she had served G.o.d dailie almost L years." Amid other monuments on this wall, dating from late in the seventeenth century to the present day, is a small tablet (60) to one of the most famous Salisbury men in modern times, the Right Hon. Henry Fawcett, M.P., late Postmaster-General, who died in 1884.

=The Chapter House=, which is entered from the eastern walk of the cloisters, dates probably from the time of Edward the First; later it may be, but certainly not earlier than the commencement of his reign, as, during certain excavations for underpinning the walls in 1854, several pennies of that king were found below its foundations. The architecture is somewhat later in style than that of the cloisters, and if it be not, as its admirers claim, the most beautiful in England, it has few rivals. Like Westminster, Wells, and other English examples, except York and Southwell, it has a central pillar, from which the groining of the roof springs gracefully in harmonious lines. A raised bench of stone runs round the interior. At its back, forty-nine niches of a canopied arcade borne on slight Purbeck marble shafts mark out as many seats. They are apportioned as follows: those at each side of the entrance to the Chancellor and Treasurer respectively, the rest to the Bishop, Dean, Arch-deacons, and other members of the chapter.

[Ill.u.s.tration: THE SOUTH SIDE OF THE CHAPTER HOUSE.]

[Ill.u.s.tration: BOSSES FROM THE CHAPTER HOUSE ROOF.]

The plan of the building is octagonal, about fifty-eight feet in diameter and fifty-two feet in height. Each side has a large fanlight window with traceried head. Below these windows and above the canopies of the seats is a very remarkable series of bas-reliefs, noticed more fully later on. The bosses of the roof are somewhat elaborately carved; one north of the west doorway has groups of figures on it, apparently intended to represent armourers, musicians, and apothecaries, possibly commemorating guilds who were benefactors to the building; the others have foliage chiefly with grotesque monsters.

On the base of the central pillar is a series of carvings taken probably from one of the many books of fables so popular in the middle ages. These were reproduced from the originals, which are preserved in the cloisters.

[Ill.u.s.tration: DETAILS OF SCULPTURES IN THE CHAPTER HOUSE.

_From Photographs by Catherine Weed Ward._]

The quatrefoil over the doorway has an empty niche, and it is not possible to say with certainty whether it was originally filled by a crucifix, as Mr. Mackenzie Walcott infers from the symbols of the Evangelists in the angles of the panel; or, with a seated figure of our Lord in majesty; or, as a third archaeologist has suggested, a coronation of the Virgin. Filling the voussoirs of the arch of the doorway are fourteen small niches containing subjects from the Psychomachia of Prudentius, the Battle of the Virtues against the Vices. The figures are not easily identified, but Mr. Burges, whose "Iconography of the Chapter House" is the most important monograph on the subject, suggests that on the right-hand side the figures in the third niche from the top appear to represent Concord triumphing over Discord; in the sixth, Temperance is pouring liquor down the throat of Intemperance; on the seventh, Fort.i.tude tramples on Terror, who cuts her own throat. On the left hand in the first niche Faith is trampling on Infidelity; in the second, a Virtue covers a Vice with her cloak, while the Vice embraces her knees with one hand and stabs her with a sword held in the other. This incident is taken from Prudentius: "Discord by stealth wounds Concord; she is taken and killed by" Faith, which latter incident may be represented in the next compartment. In the fourth niche, Truth pulls out Falsehood's tongue; in the fifth, Modesty scourges l.u.s.t; in the sixth, Generosity pours coin into the throat of Avarice. To quote the words of the author from whom these interpretations are derived: "These sculptures are of the very highest cla.s.s of art, and infinitely superior to any work in the chapter house; the only defect is the size of the heads: probably this was intentional on the part of the artist. The intense life and movement of the figures are worthy of special study." These allegories are common in paintings and sculptures of this period; at Canterbury the same subjects are incised on the pavement that surrounds the shrine of St. Thomas a Becket.

On the spandrils of the continuous arcade, sculptures in high relief once restored as far as possible in the original colours are now again sc.r.a.ped clean, and with the new heads to the figures look so modern that it is hard to believe they are contemporary with the building they adorn, yet since on the whole the restoration has been faithfully accomplished they may be studied as peculiarly valuable examples of early mediaeval sculpture, showing certain nave qualities that raise them far above the usual level of contemporary work. They are supposed to have been defaced by the Commission sitting in this building during the time of the Rebellion. The subjects are: