Arabesque - A Taste Of Morocco, Turkey, And Lebanon Part 4

Heat the olive oil in a wide pan, and put in the onions. Half-cover with about 1 cup water and add a little salt and pepper. Braise for about 35 minutes, covering the pan at first, then removing the lid to reduce the liquid. Cook, stirring occasionally, until all the liquid has disappeared and the onions are soft and brown in the sizzling oil. They will be ready when the point of a sharp knife goes in easily. Add the honey and cook, stirring often, for 15 minutes, until the onions are caramelized and soft enough to, as they say in Morocco, "crush with the tongue."

Serve very hot. Accompany the lamb with the onions, and pa.s.s around salt and pepper for the meat, which is needed to mitigate the sweetness of the onions.

TAGINE of KNUCKLE KNUCKLE of of VEAL VEAL with with ARTICHOKES ARTICHOKES and and PEAS PEAS Tagine Bil Korni Wal Jelban Ask your butcher to saw the knuckle of veal into rounds, retaining the marrow in the center of the bone (as for Italian os...o...b..co os...o...b..co ). You can buy very good frozen artichokes, which come from Egypt, from Middle Eastern stores. They come in packages weighing ). You can buy very good frozen artichokes, which come from Egypt, from Middle Eastern stores. They come in packages weighing 14 14 ounces and containing about ounces and containing about 9 9 small artichoke bottoms. If you want to use fresh artichoke hearts or bottoms, see page small artichoke bottoms. If you want to use fresh artichoke hearts or bottoms, see page 8. 8.Use young fresh peas or frozen pet.i.ts pois. pet.i.ts pois.

SERVES 4 stick (4 tablespoons) b.u.t.ter or 3 tablespoons sunflower oil1 onion, chopped2 garlic cloves, crushed or chopped finely teaspoon ground ginger teaspoon saffron threads4 thick rounds cut from the knuckle of vealsalt and black pepperone 14-ounce package frozen artichoke bottoms, defrostedjuice of lemonpeel of to 1 preserved lemon (optional) (see page 7)14 ounces fresh young peas (sh.e.l.led weight), or frozen pet.i.ts pois pet.i.ts pois, defrosted2 tablespoons chopped coriander8 green olives (optional) Heat the b.u.t.ter or oil in a wide pan or ca.s.serole. Put in the onion, garlic, ginger, saffron, and meat. Cook over a low heat for about 5 minutes, turning over the meat.

Cover with water, season with salt and pepper, and simmer, with the lid on, for 1 to 2 hours, or until the meat is so tender it almost comes away from the bone. If necessary, add water to keep the meat covered, and stir occasionally to make sure it does not stick to the bottom of the pan. Remove the lid toward the end to reduce the sauce.

Add the artichoke bottoms, cut in half or quartered, lemon juice, and preserved lemon peel cut into strips, if using, and cook for 5 minutes. Then add the peas and coriander, and, if you like, the olives. Cook for 5 minutes, or until the vegetables are tender. The sauce should be reduced and thick.

TAGINE of KNUCKLE KNUCKLE of of VEAL VEAL with with FENNEL FENNEL Tagine Bil Bisbas Bulb fennel has an attractive intense aniseed flavor. Follow the above recipe for Tagine Tagine of Knuckle of Veal (page 103) but, instead of artichokes and peas, use 4 medium-size fennel bulbs. Trim the base, cut away the hard ends of the round stalks, and remove the outer layer if it is stringy or bruised. Cut in half or quarters, lengthwise. Add to the meat and cook for 30 minutes, or until very soft. of Knuckle of Veal (page 103) but, instead of artichokes and peas, use 4 medium-size fennel bulbs. Trim the base, cut away the hard ends of the round stalks, and remove the outer layer if it is stringy or bruised. Cut in half or quarters, lengthwise. Add to the meat and cook for 30 minutes, or until very soft.

TAGINE of KNUCKLE KNUCKLE of of VEAL VEAL with with EGGPLANTS EGGPLANTS Tagine Bil Brania For this tagine tagine, follow the recipe for Tagine Tagine of Knuckle of Veal with Artichokes and Peas (page 103), but instead of adding the artichokes and peas at the end, serve the meat with a puree of mashed eggplants poured over it. of Knuckle of Veal with Artichokes and Peas (page 103), but instead of adding the artichokes and peas at the end, serve the meat with a puree of mashed eggplants poured over it.

Roast 2 pounds of eggplants in the hottest oven. Peel, chop, and mash them as described on page 8. Heat 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil in a skillet with 4 crushed cloves of garlic. When the aroma rises, add the eggplant puree with a squeeze of lemon and cook for 1 to 2 minutes. Pour over the meat and heat through just before serving.

You can also add a 14-ounce can of chickpeas, drained of their water, to the meat toward the end of the cooking.

LAMB TAGINE with TAGINE with POTATOES POTATOES and and PEAS PEAS Tagine Bil Batata Wal Jelban The best lamb to use for this tagine tagine is either boned shoulder or neck fillet. Trim away some of the excess fat before cooking. Some supermarkets sell fresh sh.e.l.led peas, which are young and sweet, but frozen is either boned shoulder or neck fillet. Trim away some of the excess fat before cooking. Some supermarkets sell fresh sh.e.l.led peas, which are young and sweet, but frozen pet.i.ts pois pet.i.ts pois will also do very well. If the olives are very salty, soak them in water for up to an hour. will also do very well. If the olives are very salty, soak them in water for up to an hour.

SERVES 6 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil1 onion, chopped2 garlic cloves, crushed1 teaspoon ground ginger teaspoon saffron threads3 pounds boned shoulder or neck fillet of lamb, cut into 6 to 8 piecessalt and black pepper2 pounds new potatoes, peeled1 pound fresh young peas (sh.e.l.led weight) or frozen pet.i.ts pois pet.i.ts pois, defrostedpeel of 1 to 1 preserved lemon (optional) (see page 7)16 or more green olives2 tablespoons chopped coriander2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley Heat the oil in a wide pan or ca.s.serole. Put in the onion, garlic, ginger, saffron, and meat. Cook on low heat for about 5 minutes, turning over the meat. Cover with water, season with salt and pepper and cook, covered, over low heat, for 1 to 1 hours, or until the meat is very tender, turning the pieces over once in a while.

Add the potatoes, cutting any large ones in half. Top up the water, if necessary, and cook 20 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender. Then add the peas, preserved lemon peel cut into thin strips, if using, olives, coriander, and parsley, and cook, uncovered, for 5 minutes longer, or until the peas are tender and the sauce reduced and thick.

VARIATION Young fava beans can be used instead of peas, but they will need to be cooked for at least 10 minutes.

TAGINE of LAMB LAMB with with CARAMELIZED BABY ONIONS CARAMELIZED BABY ONIONS and and PEARS PEARS Tagine Bil Bouawid This is a recipe that is similar to the chicken tagine tagine on page on page 93 93, but the result is quite different. The sweetness of the pears goes surprisingly well with the lamb. Choose firm pears; if the fruit is too soft, they tend to collapse during the cooking. Comice and Bosc are good varieties. Use a boned shoulder of lamb or neck fillets, and trim only some-not all-of the fat. but the result is quite different. The sweetness of the pears goes surprisingly well with the lamb. Choose firm pears; if the fruit is too soft, they tend to collapse during the cooking. Comice and Bosc are good varieties. Use a boned shoulder of lamb or neck fillets, and trim only some-not all-of the fat.

SERVES 6 TO 8 3 pounds boned shoulder of lamb5 tablespoons sunflower or vegetable oil1 onion, choppedsalt and plenty of black pepper teaspoon ground ginger teaspoon ground cinnamon teaspoon saffron threads1 pound (about 2 cups) shallots or baby onions3 large pears stick (2 tablespoons) b.u.t.ter Cut the meat into 6 or 8 pieces, and put it into a wide pan with 2 tablespoons oil over medium heat; turn to brown the pieces all over. Add the chopped onion and barely cover with water. Stir in salt and pepper, ginger, cinnamon, and saffron, and simmer, covered, over a low heat for 1 hours, turning the pieces over a few times.

To peel the onions or shallots, blanch them in boiling water for 5 minutes and, when cool enough to handle, peel off the skins and trim the roots. Saute them in a skillet in 2 tablespoons oil over a low heat for 5 to 10 minutes, shaking the pan, until the onions have slightly colored. Then add them to the meat and cook for a further 30 minutes, until the meat is very tender and the baby onions are so soft that, as they say in Morocco, "you can crush them with your tongue." Toward the end of the cooking time, cook uncovered to reduce the sauce. There should be only a small amount of liquid remaining.

Wash the pears. Quarter and core them but do not peel them. Saute them in a large skillet in a mixture of b.u.t.ter and the remaining tablespoon of oil over medium heat until their cut sides are slightly brown and caramelized. If they have not softened right through (that depends on their size and degree of ripeness), put them into the pan over the meat, skin side up, and continue to cook, covered, until they are very tender. It could be 15 minutes, but you must watch them as they can quickly fall apart.

Serve the meat with the pears, arranged skin side up, on top.

VARIATIONS Stir in 1 to 1 tablespoons of clear honey when you put in the pears, and adjust the seasoning so that there is enough salt and plenty of pepper to mitigate the sweetness.

Add cup blanched almonds to the meat at the start. They will soften during the cooking.

Instead of pears, sharp green apples, such as Granny Smiths, may be used.

Use veal instead of lamb.

TAGINE of LAMB LAMB with with CARAMELIZED BABY ONIONS CARAMELIZED BABY ONIONS and and QUINCES QUINCES Tagine Bil Sfargal Follow the recipe for Tagine Tagine of Lamb with Caramelized Baby Onions and Pears (page 106) but instead of the pears, use 3 quinces, weighing about 2 pounds. Quinces are now available for several months, starting in the fall, as they are imported from various countries, which have different seasons. of Lamb with Caramelized Baby Onions and Pears (page 106) but instead of the pears, use 3 quinces, weighing about 2 pounds. Quinces are now available for several months, starting in the fall, as they are imported from various countries, which have different seasons.

Wash and scrub the quinces. Boil them whole for about 1 hour, or until they feel soft. The time varies greatly depending on their size and degree of ripeness, so watch them and do not let them fall apart. Drain them and, when cool enough to handle, cut them into quarters, then cut away the cores but do not peel them.

In a large skillet, saute the quarters in a little sunflower oil until the cut sides are brown. This gives them a delicious caramelized flavor. Alternatively, for a honeyed version, saute the quinces in a mixture of stick (2 tablespoons) unsalted b.u.t.ter, melted with 1 tablespoon sunflower oil and 1 tablespoons clear honey. You may also add cup walnut halves, which gives a wonderful contrast of texture.

Put the quinces-caramelized or honeyed-in the pan with the meat, skin side down, and cook until they are soft but, again, watch them so that they do not fall apart. If there is not enough room, lift out the meat and put in the fruits, returning the meat to heat through before serving. Serve hot, with the quinces, skin side up, on top of the meat.

TAGINE of LAMB LAMB with with APRICOTS APRICOTS Tagine Bil Mashmash The combination of lamb and apricots has become popular in America, and with good reason-they go beautifully together. Follow the recipe for Tagine Tagine of Lamb with Caramelized Baby Onions and Pears (page 106) until the meat is very tender and the sauce reduced. Instead of the onions and pears, pit 2 pounds fresh apricots, add them to the meat, and cook for minutes, only until they soften. of Lamb with Caramelized Baby Onions and Pears (page 106) until the meat is very tender and the sauce reduced. Instead of the onions and pears, pit 2 pounds fresh apricots, add them to the meat, and cook for minutes, only until they soften.

Another particularly splendid version (my favorite-which you must try) is with dried apricots. Soak 1 pound dried apricots in water for an hour or longer, drain, and cook for about 1 hour in water to cover (you will need to keep adding water) until they are very soft. Then let the liquid reduce to practically nothing. Add 2 tablespoons clear honey and stick (2 tablespoons) unsalted b.u.t.ter, and cook, stirring, until the apricots begin to turn brown and caramelize. Pour them on top of the meat when serving. Sprinkle the dish, if you like, with cup blanched almonds fried in 1 tablespoon sunflower oil until lightly browned.

TAGINE of LAMB LAMB with with DATES DATES and and ALMONDS ALMONDS Tagine Bil Tmar Wal Loz In an Arab culture born in the desert, dates have something of a sacred character. Considered the "bread of the desert," they symbolize hospitality and are much loved and prestigious. You would find this dish at wedding parties. Some people find it too sweet, so you might prefer it, as I do, without the optional honey. The dates give it a slightly sticky texture. Use the semi-dried moist varieties from California or the Deglet Nour dates from Tunisia.

SERVES 6 TO 8 3 pounds boned shoulder or neck fillet of lamb stick (4 tablespoons) b.u.t.ter or cup sunflower oil2 onions, finely chopped teaspoon saffron threads teaspoon ground gingersalt and plenty of black pepper1 cinnamon stick1 to 2 tablespoons clear honey (optional)1 teaspoon ground cinnamon1 cups dates, pittedTo garnish: cup blanched almonds; 3 tablespoons sesame seeds (optional) Trim any excess fat from the lamb and cut into 6 or 8 pieces. Heat the b.u.t.ter or 3 tablespoons oil in a large pan, put in the meat, and brown it lightly all over. Take out the meat, put in the onions and cook, stirring, until they begin to color. Stir in the saffron and ginger and return the meat to the pan. Add salt and pepper and the cinnamon stick. Cover with water and simmer, covered, for 1 to 2 hours, or until the meat is very tender, turning the pieces occasionally.

Take out two pieces of meat in order to make room in the pan, stir in the honey, if using, and the ground cinnamon and more pepper (it needs plenty to counterbalance the sweetness). Move the meat around so the honey and cinnamon is spread around and then return the two pieces of meat. Cook until the sauce is reduced, turning the meat over as you do. Add the dates and cook 5 to 10 minutes more.

Fry the almonds in the remaining tablespoon of oil until lightly golden. Leave whole or coa.r.s.ely chop, and sprinkle over the meat when serving, adding lightly toasted sesame seeds, if you like.

VARIATION Stuff the pitted dates with walnut halves. In this case, omit the almonds and sesame seeds.

TAGINE of LAMB LAMB with with PRUNES PRUNES and and ALMONDS ALMONDS Tagine Bil Barkok Wal Loz This is the best-known fruit tagine tagine outside Morocco. Restaurants in Paris accompany it with couscous outside Morocco. Restaurants in Paris accompany it with couscous seffa seffa made with fine-ground couscous (see page made with fine-ground couscous (see page 28 28 ) with plenty of b.u.t.ter, one bowl of boiled chickpeas, and another of stewed raisins. The best prunes to use are the moist Californian ones, which are already pitted. ) with plenty of b.u.t.ter, one bowl of boiled chickpeas, and another of stewed raisins. The best prunes to use are the moist Californian ones, which are already pitted.

SERVES 6 TO 8 3 pounds boned shoulder or neck fillet of lamb4 tablespoons sunflower oil1 large onion, chopped finely or grated2 garlic cloves, chopped1 teaspoon ground ginger teaspoon saffron threadssalt and plenty of black pepper2 teaspoons ground cinnamon pound (about 2 cups) prunes (see above)To garnish: cup blanched almonds; 3 tablespoons sesame seeds (optional) Trim any excess fat from the lamb and cut it into 6 or 8 pieces. Put the meat in a pan with 3 tablespoons of the oil, onion, garlic, ginger, saffron, salt, pepper, and 1 teaspoon cinnamon. Cover with water and simmer gently, with the lid on, for 1 to 2 hours, until the meat is very tender, adding water to keep it covered.

Add the prunes and the remaining cinnamon. Stir well, adjust the seasoning, and simmer, uncovered, for 30 minutes more, until the sauce is reduced and thickened.

Fry the almonds in the remaining tablespoon of oil until they are lightly colored, and sprinkle these over the meat before serving. If you wish, you can also garnish with lightly toasted sesame seeds.

VARIATIONS Put the almonds in with the meat from the start of the cooking. They will become soft.

Add 1 to 2 tablespoons clear honey at the same time as the prunes.

TAGINE of LAMB LAMB with with CHESTNUTS CHESTNUTS Tagine Bil Kastal Follow the recipe for Tagine Tagine of Lamb with Prunes and Almonds (page 111) until the meat is very tender and the liquid reduced to a thick sauce. But instead of prunes, add 14 ounces frozen and defrosted, or vacuum-packed, peeled chestnuts and cook for 10 minutes, or until the chestnuts are soft and heated through. You could add 1 tablespoon clear honey with the chestnuts, in which case, adjust the seasoning; you will need quite a bit of pepper to mitigate the sweetness. The sauce should be reduced and creamy. In this version, leave out the almonds and sesame seeds. of Lamb with Prunes and Almonds (page 111) until the meat is very tender and the liquid reduced to a thick sauce. But instead of prunes, add 14 ounces frozen and defrosted, or vacuum-packed, peeled chestnuts and cook for 10 minutes, or until the chestnuts are soft and heated through. You could add 1 tablespoon clear honey with the chestnuts, in which case, adjust the seasoning; you will need quite a bit of pepper to mitigate the sweetness. The sauce should be reduced and creamy. In this version, leave out the almonds and sesame seeds.

PREPARING COUSCOUS - BASIC RECIPE This is an easy foolproof method of preparing the precooked couscous available in America (see page 28). I make it straight in the round clay dish in which it will be served with its broth and other accompaniments. In Morocco, 500 grams (1.2 pounds) serves 4 people but by standards in America, it is enough for 6. If you are cooking for 8 or 10 people, it is worth making 2.4 pounds, if only because a mountain of couscous looks good.

You need the same volume of salted water as couscous.

Put 2 cups couscous in an oven dish. Gradually add 2 cups warm salted water, made with to 1 teaspoon salt, stirring vigorously so that it is absorbed evenly. Leave to swell for about 10 minutes, then mix in 2 tablespoons oil and rub the couscous between your hands above the bowl to air it and break up any lumps. That is the important part.

Put the dish in an oven preheated to 400F and heat through for 20 minutes, or until it is steaming hot (it takes longer for 5 cups couscous). Before serving, work in 3 tablespoons b.u.t.ter cut into small pieces, or 2 to 3 tablespoons oil, and fluff it up again, breaking up any lumps.

COUSCOUS with with SPRING VEGETABLES SPRING VEGETABLES Kesksou L'Hodra This aromatic herby couscous with young tender vegetables and no meat makes a lovely main dish. Vegetarians will love it. Use fresh young fava beans and peas (some supermarkets sell them already sh.e.l.led) or frozen pet.i.ts pois. pet.i.ts pois.

SERVES 6 2 cups barley couscous or ordinary couscous2 cups warm water with to 1 teaspoon salt6 tablespoons mild extra virgin olive oil4 cups stock made with 2 vegetable or chicken bouillon cubes14 ounces young fava beans (sh.e.l.led weight), or frozen fava beans, defrosted pound scallions14 ounces frozen artichokes or baby artichokessalt and black pepper14 ounces young peas (sh.e.l.led weight), or frozen pet.i.ts pois pet.i.ts pois, defrostedlarge handful of chopped flat-leaf parsleylarge handful of chopped corianderhandful of chopped mint Following the basic recipe (page 112), put the couscous in a wide, ovenproof dish, add the same volume of salted water gradually, stirring so that it gets absorbed evenly. After about 10 minutes, when the couscous has become plump and almost tender, add 3 tablespoons olive oil and rub the couscous between your hands to air it and break up any lumps. This can be done in advance and then heated through 20 to 30 minutes before serving in an oven preheated to 400F until it is steaming hot. For the broth, bring the stock to boiling point, then add the fava beans; the scallions, trimmed of their green ends and sliced; and the artichokes, cut in half or quartered, and cook for 10 minutes, or until tender. Season with salt and pepper, taking into consideration the saltiness of the bouillon cubes. Add the peas, and cook for 5 minutes, or until they are just tender. Stir in the herbs just before you are ready to serve.

Before serving, fluff up the couscous with a fork, breaking up any lumps, and stir in the remaining olive oil. Arrange the vegetables on top and pa.s.s the broth around in a bowl for everyone to help themselves.

VARIATION You may like to melt into the couscous at the end stick (4 tablespoons) of b.u.t.ter and omit the olive oil.

BARLEY COUSCOUS with with SEVEN VEGETABLES SEVEN VEGETABLES Kesksou Seb'Hdati Traditionally, the Berbers first made couscous with barley, and barley couscous is still very popular, especially in the south of Morocco. It is now available in precooked form from some Middle Eastern stores. You can subst.i.tute ordinary couscous.You can make the broth with lamb, beef, or veal (preferably shoulder, neck fillet, or knuckle) and with a choice of vegetables. According to local lore, seven is a magic number that brings good luck. Onions, tomatoes, and chili peppers count as flavorings, so you must have seven more vegetables. I have listed eight, so drop one. The number of ingredients makes it seem a scary endeavor, but it is only a matter of throwing things into a pot, and it makes a spectacular one-dish meal for a large party. You will need a very big pot.

SERVES 10 FOR THE COUSCOUS5 cups barley couscous5 cups warm water1 to 2 teaspoons salt cup sunflower or vegetable oil1 stick ( cup) b.u.t.terFOR THE BROTH3 pounds meat (see above)3 large onions cup chickpeas, soaked overnightblack pepper teaspoon saffron powder or threads1 teaspoon ground cinnamon1 teaspoon ground ginger1 pound tomatoes, peeled and quartered1 pound carrots, peeled and cut into strips1 pound small turnips, halved1 small white cabbage, cut in chunks1 pound new potatoes2 chili peppers (optional)salt4 stalks celery, halved1 pound orange pumpkin, cut in 1-inch pieces1 pound zucchini pound young fava beans (sh.e.l.led weight), or frozen fava beans, defrosted cup chopped coriander cup chopped flat-leaf parsley Prepare the couscous in a large, round, ovenproof dish as described on page 112, leaving the final heating in the oven to be done 20 to 30 minutes before serving.

Cut the meat into 10 pieces and the onions into quarters, then into thick slices, and put them in a large pan with the drained chickpeas. Cover with about 6 pints of water, bring to the boil, and remove the sc.u.m. Add the pepper (no salt is added at this stage since it would stop the chickpeas from softening), saffron, cinnamon, and ginger and simmer, covered, for 1 hour.

Now put in the tomatoes, carrots, turnips, cabbage, potatoes, cut in half or left whole if small, and the whole chilies, if using. Add salt, and cook for 30 minutes, or until the meat is very tender.

Add the celery, pumpkin, zucchini, cut into fat slices or left whole if they are baby ones, fava beans, and herbs. Add more water, if necessary, taste, and adjust the seasoning, and cook 30 minutes more.

About 20 to 30 minutes before the end of the cooking time-when the last vegetables go in-put the couscous into the oven, preheated to 400F, and heat through until it is steaming hot, taking it out and fluffing it with a fork after about 10 minutes. Before serving, fork the b.u.t.ter, cut into small pieces, into the couscous and fluff up the couscous as it melts in.

To serve, moisten the couscous with a little broth and shape it into a cone with a crater at the top. Arrange some meat in the crater and some vegetables down the sides, then pour a little broth over the mound. Bring the remaining broth, meat, and vegetables to the table in another bowl. Alternatively, bring the couscous to the table in one dish, and the broth with the meat and vegetables in another, and serve them directly into individual bowls or soup plates.

VARIATIONS Use 2 chickens cut into pieces instead of the meat.

For a peppery sauce, pa.s.s around a bowl with 3 to 4 ladles of the hot broth mixed with 1 tablespoon or more harissa harissa or 2 tablespoons paprika and 1 teaspoon or more chili pepper. Although this was originally a Tunisian and Algerian custom, not Moroccan, the French like it as do some of us now. or 2 tablespoons paprika and 1 teaspoon or more chili pepper. Although this was originally a Tunisian and Algerian custom, not Moroccan, the French like it as do some of us now.

COUSCOUS with with LAMB, ONIONS, LAMB, ONIONS, and and RAISINS RAISINS Kesksou Tfaya The special feature of this dish is the exquisite mix of caramelized onions, honey, and raisins called tfaya tfaya , which is served as a topping to the long-cooked, deliciously tender meat. , which is served as a topping to the long-cooked, deliciously tender meat.

SERVES 4 TO 6 FOR THE COUSCOUS2 cups couscous2 cups warm water to 1 teaspoon salt3 tablespoons sunflower or vegetable oil stick (4 tablespoons) b.u.t.ter2 pounds boned shoulder or leg of lamb2 pounds onionssalt and black pepper to 1 teaspoon ground ginger2 teaspoons ground cinnamon4 whole cloves teaspoon saffron threads or powder1/3 stick (2 tablespoons) b.u.t.ter1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil2 tablespoons clear honey1 cup raisins, soaked in water for 20 minutes1 cup blanched almonds Prepare the couscous in a large, round, ovenproof dish as described on page 112, leaving the final heating in the oven to be done 20 to 30 minutes before serving.

Prepare the meat broth in a large pan. Put in the meat, with about pound onions, chopped, and cover with 7 cups water. Bring to the boil and remove the sc.u.m. Add salt and pepper, the ginger, 1 teaspoon cinnamon, and the cloves. Simmer for 1 hours. At this point, add the saffron and more water, if necessary, and simmer for another 30 minutes, or until the meat is so tender you can pull it apart with your fingers.

At the same time, prepare the honeyed onion tfaya. tfaya. Cut the remaining onions in half and slice them. Put them in a pan with 1 cup water. Put the lid on and cook over low heat for about 30 minutes, until the onions are very soft. Remove the lid and cook further, until the liquid has evaporated. Add the b.u.t.ter and oil and cook until the onions are golden. Stir in the honey and the remaining 1 teaspoons cinnamon, the drained raisins, and a pinch of salt. Continue cooking for another 10 minutes, or until the onions caramelize and become brown. Cut the remaining onions in half and slice them. Put them in a pan with 1 cup water. Put the lid on and cook over low heat for about 30 minutes, until the onions are very soft. Remove the lid and cook further, until the liquid has evaporated. Add the b.u.t.ter and oil and cook until the onions are golden. Stir in the honey and the remaining 1 teaspoons cinnamon, the drained raisins, and a pinch of salt. Continue cooking for another 10 minutes, or until the onions caramelize and become brown.

Fry the almonds in a drop of oil until golden, turning them over, then drain on paper towels. Coa.r.s.ely chop about half of them.

About 20 to 30 minutes before the end of the cooking time, put the couscous in the oven, preheated to 400F, and heat through until it is steaming hot, fluffing it with a fork after about 10 minutes. Before serving, fork the b.u.t.ter, cut into small pieces, into the couscous and again fluff up the couscous as it melts in.

To serve, moisten the couscous with a ladle of broth and mix in the chopped almonds, and leave it in the baking dish or turn it onto a large, round platter; shape it into a mound and make a wide shallow hollow in the center. Put the meat in the hollow, cover with the onion and raisin tfaya tfaya, and sprinkle with the remaining whole, fried almonds. Serve the broth separately.

"BURIED in in VERMICELLI" VERMICELLI"

Shaariya Medfouna This specialty of Fez-shaariya medfouna, which means "buried in vermicelli"-is a fabulous surprise dish-a chicken which means "buried in vermicelli"-is a fabulous surprise dish-a chicken tagine tagine hidden under a mountain of vermicelli. It is a grand festive dish, a kind of hidden under a mountain of vermicelli. It is a grand festive dish, a kind of trompe l'oeil, trompe l'oeil, as the vermicelli is decorated like a sweet dessert couscous (page as the vermicelli is decorated like a sweet dessert couscous (page 124 124 ), with alternating lines of confectioners' sugar, cinnamon, and chopped fried almonds. It sounds complex, but it is really worth making for a large party. ), with alternating lines of confectioners' sugar, cinnamon, and chopped fried almonds. It sounds complex, but it is really worth making for a large party.You can leave out the confectioners' sugar if you think your guests are likely to prefer it without, and instead pa.s.s the sugar around in a little bowl for those who would like to try. The vermicelli is traditionally steamed like couscous, but it is easier to boil it. It is more practical to cook the chickens in 2 2 large pans and to divide the ingredients for the stew between them. large pans and to divide the ingredients for the stew between them.In Morocco they also cook pigeons and lamb in the same way.

SERVES 10 OR MORE 2 large whole chickens4 large onions, chopped coa.r.s.ely2 teaspoons ground cinnamon1 teaspoon ground ginger1 teaspoon saffron threads or powdersalt and black pepper1 stick ( cup plus 2 tablespoons) b.u.t.ter1 tablespoon clear honey2 teaspoons orange blossom water (optional) cup chopped flat-leaf parsley cup chopped coriander1 cup blanched almonds1 tablespoons sunflower or vegetable oil2 pounds vermicelli nestsTo decorate: 2 teaspoons cinnamon; confectioners' sugar (optional) Use two deep pans and put 1 chicken into each. To each pan, pour in 2 cups water, bring to the boil, and remove the sc.u.m. Add 2 chopped onions, 1 teaspoon cinnamon, teaspoon ginger, and teaspoon saffron. Add salt and pepper and simmer, covered, for about 1 hour. Turn the chickens occasionally so they are well cooked all over.

Lift out the chickens and, when cool enough to handle, remove the skin and bones and cut the meat into medium-size pieces.

Pour the chicken stock with the onions into one pan only and reduce by boiling it down until a thick sauce results. Stir in stick (4 tablespoons) of b.u.t.ter, the honey, and the orange blossom water, if using, and cook a few minutes more. Taste, and add extra salt and pepper if necessary.

Add the herbs and return the chicken pieces to the sauce. All this can be done in advance and reheated when you are about to serve.

Fry the almonds in the oil until lightly browned, then drain on paper towels. Crush them with a pestle and mortar or coa.r.s.ely chop them.

Just before serving, break the vermicelli into small pieces by crushing the nests in your hands. Cook in rapidly boiling salted water for 5 minutes, until al dente, stirring vigorously at the start so that the threads do not stick together in lumps. Drain very quickly and then pour it back into the pan. Stir in the remaining b.u.t.ter, cut into small pieces, and some salt.

Put the chicken with its sauce into a very large, deep, round serving dish. Cover with a mountain of vermicelli, and decorate this with lines of cinnamon, confectioners' sugar, if using, and chopped almonds emanating from the center like rays.

VARIATION For "buried in couscous" (couscous medfoun medfoun), the fine-ground couscous, seffa seffa, is used instead of vermicelli. Prepare 5 cups as described on page 112 and heat it through in the oven. Cover the chicken with a mountain of couscous. As above, make a design by sprinkling thin lines of cinnamon and confectioners' sugar, fanning down like rays from the top, and decorate the bottom of the mound with whole or chopped toasted almonds or walnut halves and raisins or dates.

Desserts Morocco is a fruit lovers' paradise. In riad riads, traditional Arab houses with interior gardens, there are always fruit trees, and their scents permeate the air. It is from the Persians and their notion that paradise was an orchard that the Arabs adopted and pa.s.sed on their love of fruit. Bowls of dried fruit and nuts are ready in every home to greet visitors-sometimes the hostess will fill a date or a fig with an almond or a walnut and hand it to you. And the usual way to end a meal is with fruit. For guests, it is served either simply cut up on a plate or as a fruit salad.

Pastries are for special occasions, or for visitors when they drop in. They are filled with almonds, pistachios, or walnuts and with dates and usually soaked in sugar or honey syrup.

SWEET COUSCOUS Kesksou Seffa A sweet couscous made with the fine-ground couscous called seffa seffa (see page (see page 28 28 ) is served hot, accompanied by a drink of cold b.u.t.termilk or milk perfumed with a drop of orange blossom water served in little gla.s.ses. The couscous needs quite a bit of b.u.t.ter because there is no broth. See the suggestions below for extra garnishes. ) is served hot, accompanied by a drink of cold b.u.t.termilk or milk perfumed with a drop of orange blossom water served in little gla.s.ses. The couscous needs quite a bit of b.u.t.ter because there is no broth. See the suggestions below for extra garnishes.

SERVES 6 TO 8 2 cups fine-ground couscous (seffa)2 cups warm water to 1 teaspoon salt2 tablespoons sunflower or vegetable oil1 stick ( cup) or more unsalted b.u.t.ter2 tablespoons superfine sugarTo decorate: confectioners' sugar and ground cinnamonTo serve: little bowls of confectioners' sugar, ground cinnamon, and honey Prepare the couscous as described in Preparing Couscous on page 112. Before serving, cut the b.u.t.ter into small pieces and work it and the superfine sugar into the hot couscous, fluffing up the grain with a fork and breaking up any lumps.

Shape the couscous into a cone in a round, flat dish. Dust the pointed top with confectioners' sugar and draw lines, fanning down the sides, with confectioners' sugar and cinnamon. Decorate further with one or two of the fruit and nut garnishes listed below.

Serve in bowls and pa.s.s around bowls of honey, sugar, and cinnamon and more of the fruit and nuts, for people to help themselves as they wish.

EXTRA GARNISHES TO CHOOSE FROM Arrange dessert raisins such as Muscatels or Smyrna sultanas with blanched almonds (toasted or fried in a drop of oil until lightly golden), or dates and walnut halves, around the bottom of the cone or between the lines of confectioners' sugar and cinnamon. (The same nuts, coa.r.s.ely chopped, and small raisins can be mixed with the couscous before it is shaped into a cone.) Sweet seedless grapes or shiny, pink pomegranate seeds are an alternative garnish to sprinkle over the mound of couscous.

FRUIT SALAD with with HONEY HONEY and and ORANGE BLOSSOM WATER ORANGE BLOSSOM WATER Slada Bil Fawakih For this delicately scented fruit salad, have a mix of fruit chosen from three or four of the following: peaches, nectarines, apricots, bananas, plums, grapes, apples, pears, strawberries, mangoes, melon, pineapple, dates, pomegranate seeds.

SERVES 4 juice of 1 large orange2 tablespoons honey1 teaspoon orange blossom water1 pounds mixed fruitTo garnish: a few mint leaves Mix the orange juice, honey, and orange blossom water straight into a serving bowl. Wash or peel the fruits, core or remove pits, and drop the fruit in the bowl as you cut them up into pieces so that they do not have time to discolor.

Leave in a cool place for an hour or longer before serving. Garnish with the mint leaves.

ORANGE SALAD Slada Bil Bortokal This is the most common Moroccan dessert; it is always appealing and perfect to serve after a rich meal.