Antigua and the Antiguans Volume II Part 7

Around the walls, brackets of deal are nailed to support the innumerable tapers which serve to light up this "temple of mirth," and throw a radiance upon the countenances of the ebon beaux and belles. The orchestra generally occupies one end of the apartment; and the company is arranged, in two lines, the ladies upon one side, and the gentlemen upon the other. The glittering throng at "Almacks" cannot outvie in dress with the _glittering throng_ at an Antiguan negro ball. Fashion exerts her power, and seldom finds more devoted votaries than among these dark damsels and their loving swains.

The dress of the gentlemen consists of a blue, brown, or purple coat, (not _quite_ equal in make to one of Stultz,) with velvet collar, and shining bra.s.s b.u.t.tons; pantaloons, which would rival in whiteness the snows of great St. Bernard; a many coloured vest, a very smart cravat, silk stockings, and well-polished pumps or fancy boots, with ta.s.sels, &c., in the most approved fashion. In the folds of the cravat are deposited one or two brooches, (not quite equalling in splendour and dimensions the celebrated "brooch of Lorn," but no doubt thought by the wearers to be very tasteful;) a glittering bra.s.s chain, which after performing countless figures and evolutions around the neck, is deposited with its accompanying quizzing-gla.s.s (set in the same _precious_ metal) in the waistcoat pocket; sundry bra.s.s rings upon the fingers; a box to contain that fashionable dust, called by mortals-snuff, ornamented with a _correct_ likeness of "Her Majesty Queen Victoria," or "Prince Albert," with cheeks of the colour of red ochre, and eyes "like two full moons;" these, together with a voluminous silk handkerchief, plentifully besprinkled with _new rum_, sold under the approved name of "_Eau de Cologne_," and then the costume is complete.

Smart as these beaux are, the fair s.e.x make a much greater display. Their favourite colours are pink, blue, and bright yellow, and of these their dresses are generally composed; but the manner in which these several shades are arranged defies all description. For example-a dress of white gauze or net, over a yellow slip, is profusely decorated with quillings of blue ribbon, interspersed with red flowers; or perhaps a blue dress is ornamented with green tr.i.m.m.i.n.gs. Of course these dresses are made in the height of the fashion, very long skirts with flounces, and tight sleeves, with lace ruffles, and streamers of varied tints, while the long kid or lace gloves, are drawn up the arm to the exact point at which such articles are worn. Among the bijouterie displayed upon these _gala_ nights, may be distinguished a diversity of bra.s.s bracelets, two or three encircling the same arm; numberless rings, in which the "lively diamond," the ruby's "deepening glow," the sapphire's "solid ether," the "purple amethyst," the yellow topaz, and the green emerald, are wonderfully imitated in coloured _gla.s.s_; these _choice gems_ are liberally bestowed upon every finger, and I am not quite sure that the _thumb_ is exempted. Splendid bra.s.s chains also encircle their (not) _swan-like_ necks, long pendants gleam from their ears, and very pink silk stockings, with red, blue, or yellow shoes, are called in, to astonish with their brilliancy of hue, the eyes of their attendant youths. But notwithstanding all this finery, it is upon the adornment of their heads that these ladies lavish the most time and pains. This may surprise some, when they consider how devoid the negroes are of that great natural ornament which Rowland, by the aid of his incomparable "Maca.s.sar," so kindly and bountifully offers to dispense; but still it is no less true, for what Dame Nature denies, art bestows in the shape of a false set of curls, or a complete _toupee_. These ringlets are cleverly fastened on by bands of different coloured cotton-velvet, and the back of the head is covered with wreaths of flowers and bunches of ribbons. Those whose natural hair is long enough, wear it in what they term "French curls;" but they never fail to have a sufficient quant.i.ty of flowers intermixed with them.

The gentlemen are particularly polite to the ladies, attending to their little wants with the greatest a.s.siduity, and watching their every movement, to antic.i.p.ate, if possible, their wishes.

The ladies are also quite graceful in their manners, and forget not to practise those pretty little airs of affectation which some of their white sisters so ably perform.

When the tuning of instruments is over, and the musicians, by stamping their feet and drawing up their persons to their full height, give notice that they are ready, and have full confidence in their own powers of drawing from wood and catgut "a concord of sweet sounds," the ball commences. A gentleman advances with smirk and bow-"Oh, Miss, will you dance wid me?" "I'se must be excuse, Mr. Charles Edward, 'cause I'se got to dance wid Mr.

Albert" "Oh, Miss, den me be too late." Another lady is therefore sought and won-"Wid much pleasure, Mr. Charles Edward." At the end of the set, refreshments are handed about, and again the gentlemen vie with each other in shewing forth their gallantry- "Miss, will you hab a gla.s.s of drink?" "I'se feel much obliged to you, sir, if you please." The "drink" is composed of ginger, water, mola.s.ses, and "Christmas bush," drank in a fermented state.

While the dancing is going on in one room, another apartment, (or, if the house contains not such a desideratum,) a neighbouring domicile is being prepared for the supper. Here, again, their taste is shewn in the arrangement of the flowers &c.

with which the table is decorated, and in the disposal of the many viands which are prepared for the occasion. They generally employ a gentleman's servant to superintend, so that this is often performed in the first style. Among the mult.i.tudinous supply of eatables may be found baked mutton, legs of pork, turkeys, ducks, fowls, and guinea-birds; hams, tongues, salt-beef, and cheese; cakes, tarts, and fruits, flanked by no inconsiderable quant.i.ties of yams, sweet potatoes, _Irish_ potatoes, (as the Creoles always term them, whether they come from England, Ireland, Scotland, France, or America,) boiled rice, and bread. Nor must it be supposed these _solids_ want the accompaniment of liquids-rum, brandy, wines, and brown stout, are as liberally provided, and as liberally partaken of.

Perhaps it may be asked, how do the negroes obtain these different articles specified,-where find the _cash_ to meet these heavy demands? In the first place, it must be taken into consideration, that nearly all the negroes who reside in the country, upon the different estates, keep a great deal of stock; they have their patch of ground, in which they raise vegetables; and living as they do nearly all the rest of the year upon less expensive dishes, they have money enough by them to procure the above luxuries. Then again, it must be remarked, that it is not _one_ family which gives these routs, but almost in every instance it is a joint concern. The company pay a proportion, by the gentlemen procuring tickets to admit themselves and ladies for half-a-dollar, about 2s. 3d. sterling, which of itself affords sufficient means to provide all those sumptuous viands and costly liquids with which they regale themselves when fatigued with dancing. The compet.i.tion for opening the ball is generally very great, and from one to five dollars is demanded for that honour; but such has been the contest at times that a doubloon, or 3l. 4s. sterling, has been offered for obtaining the enviable post; and this of course further adds to their resources.

When these grand b.a.l.l.s are held in the country, the servants feel no reluctance in riding their masters' horses to and from the place of entertainment; and consequently it is nothing uncommon for great complaints to be made the next morning by different gentlemen, when they visit their stables. "Why, Thomas, what's the matter with this horse? how jaded he looks," says the gent, addressing his groom; "I hope it's not ill!" "Me no no, ma.s.sa; me quite sick meself, dat de trute," replies one of the _beaux_ of the preceding night. "And this one," continues his master, "his legs are quite swollen, and he's all over mud; I hope you have not been riding them last night, sirrah! I know you are full of tricks!" "Eh, eh! ma.s.sa, me no say, me quite sick; war for me go ride de poor dumb brute for, dat's all?"

While this dialogue pa.s.ses in the stable between the injured master and his faulty groom, respecting the state of "de poor dumb brute," who, had he the power of speech, could, like Hamlet's ghost, "a tale unfold," a similar conversation takes place in the house between the mistress and her confidential(!) domestic. "Celestina, what is the matter with you this morning?

you don't seem to know what you are doing,-are you ill?" "No, ma'am." "Then what do you look so heavy and dull about?" "Me no able to sleep last night, missis," is the answer of the fatigued belle.

When the family meet around the breakfast table, "My dear," says the lady, addressing her _cara sposa_, "do you know where John (the butler) is gone?" "No, my dear," returns her better half, sipping his mocha; "is he not in the house?" "No; he has not been seen since last night." "Very strange," rejoins the gentleman. "I must make inquiries about it as soon as I have looked over the 'Weekly Register;' the fellow gets too bad." At this moment the door opens, and John enters, his head tied up in a handkerchief and a quant.i.ty of plantain leaves;[29] his countenance, deprived of its naturally deep black, displays a sickly-looking hue; his heavy blood-shot eyes, turning from one member of the family to the other, as if to inquire what they had been saying about him, and presenting altogether a most rueful appearance. "Why, John,"

cries his master, elevating his eyebrows, and wiping his spectacles, to be certain it is really the lost butler,-"Why, John, where have you been, and what have you been doing with yourself?" "Quite sick, ma.s.sa," returns poor John, in a very doleful tone; "hab feber all last night, neber sleep 'tall a 'tall; head really hurt me; 'bleive me go get _hager_," &c. The real fact of the case, John was one of the party the night before, who had paid their devoirs too zealously to the "rosy G.o.d," "jolly Bacchus," and the consequence was, headache and all its accompanying et-ceteras, without the benefit of "soda water"

or "Morison's pills of health."

When these "grand b.a.l.l.s" are in contemplation, great is the flurry and fl.u.s.ter of the conductors; cards of invitation are issued about eight or ten days before; gla.s.ses, lamps, dishes, &c., are borrowed from managers or overseers upon the estate where the rout is given, or if in town, from any "buckra" who they may live with; flowers are begged, or gardens robbed; and many other necessary deeds achieved. I have several of these "cards of invite" lying before me, and for the edification of my readers, I will transcribe one or two of them _verbatim_:-"Mr.

James Hammilton Compliments to Mr. James, and invite him to a Quadrille party on Tuesday next week, with lady;" addressed, "Mr.

James Hammilton to Mr. James, Spring Gardens." This is written upon paper, which had once been white, but, alas! too many touches have tarnished its fair character. The next which comes to hand is traced upon that particular kind of green paper which we commonly see wrapped round quills in the stationers' shop windows, in far-famed London, and is expressed as follows:-"Mr.

James will be happy of Mr. Brown and Lady Company on Sat.u.r.day the 2nd Quarter of the Moon. Price 4s. 6d. Lower Form."[30] The direction to this last-named note is, I think, very unique-

"Mr. Brown, "Town!"

meaning, of course, that the gentleman resided in St. John's, the capital of Antigua.

Having given two specimens of their written invitations, perhaps some of my readers may call out, "Enough!" but there is still one before me, which looks so very dashing that I cannot pa.s.s it by with any propriety. It is written upon a _red_ card, (placed in a _blue_ envelope,) in the following manner:-

"Mr. Edward and Sam will happy of Mr. Hues Company on the 25th instant, &c. Quadrilles in Bishopsgate Street.

"G. Priddeys, "G. Silises. Stewards.

(Direction) "Mr. Hues, Esq."

The ball generally breaks up between four and five, and then there is great cloaking-up with the ladies, the gentlemen lending all the a.s.sistance. "'Tanky, Mr. _Theopolus_, you're bery kind, I'se sure." "Miss, anything dat _lays_ in my power for a lady like you." "Oh, sir! you're very purlite." "Miss Eleanora, does dis shawl 'blongs to you?" "I'se 'bleive it do, Mr. Frederick."

"Well, I do declare, I thought so, 'cause it's handsome, like its owner," &c. &c. The _Good nights_ are then repeated, and the ladies move off, accompanied by their _beaux_, and the late gay ball-room is left to the smell of expiring tallow-candles, and lamp-oil; drooping flowers, and broken bottles; sleeping musicians, and half-starved dogs, who creep in with the hopes of picking up a stray bone or two; until the bright sun arises, and bids the inmates bestir themselves to clear away the relics of their midnight orgies.

[28] For mode of moving houses, see page 132.

[29] A negro's specific for the head-ache.

[30] I am not quite certain what is meant by this expression; but suppose it relates to the arrangement of the forms, or benches.

CHAPTER x.x.xIX.

Negroes: Fondness for "Nancy stories"-Negro loquacity-Their signification of the word "cursing"-Markets-Confusion of tongues-Weddings-The drive to church-Wedding banquet-Blushing brides-Funerals-"Wake nights"-Funeral procession-Christening- High-sounding names.

After dancing, I think the next favourite pastime of the negroes, particularly among the younger ones, is to collect together upon a fine moonlight night, and talk "Nancy stories," (which, as before remarked, generally consist of tales of _diablerie_,) and the far-famed "Scheherazade" of the "Arabian Nights" could scarcely invent more marvellous ones. Some tell of a wondrous bird, (equalling in magnitude Sinbad's roc,[31]) which in other days appeared, and completely covered Antigua for some time, obliging the good people to "light candle all de day, so dat dey neber no when night come self;" others tell of men turning into monkeys, (no uncommon thing now-a-days;) some of demons, and their deeds; and others, again, of golden houses, and streets of silver, flying dragons, and talking birds. These "Nancy stories"

are generally given in a species of recitativo; but the conclusion to them all is the same-"I was dere, an see it well done, and I get a gla.s.s of wine for me pains!" The relater of these tales is held in great repute, and to obtain instruction in the art, many a little negro will give their dinners, and go hungry to-bed.

The negroes are indefatigable talkers, at all times, and in all seasons. Whether in joy or grief, they ever find full employment for that little member, the tongue. If none of their acquaintance are near at hand to enter into conversation with, they talk to themselves, maintaining different characters, and answering their own questions. I have often thought two persons were conversing, but upon inquiry, have found it to be only one. One peculiarity of expression among the negroes is, that if you have to find fault with them, and you express your dislike of what they have been doing in the mildest terms, they immediately say you have been _cursing_ them. When speaking, their tongues are very vociferous, and prove extremely disagreeable to a stranger. Upon my first arrival in this island, I was one day seated in a back apartment, and wandering with Milton through the blissful shades of Paradise, when I was aroused by hearing one of our domestics speaking in a most clamorous manner. I bore it patiently for some time, until finding it appeared to have no _terminus_, I exclaimed-"My good Sarah, I should feel particularly obliged if you would not speak _quite_ so loud." How was I surprised, a few moments after, to hear the same servant calling, in a still louder tone, to one of her companions-"Sissy, (_Ang._, sister,) war for you 'peak so loud? Me 'bleive you no hear how missis _curse_ me just now for doing dat 'ting!"

But the market is the place, where the chattering is the loudest and longest; it is a complete Babel-a scene of confusion almost unimaginable. Black, brown, and yellow-indeed, almost every tint which "sober autumn" wears-may be met with in the crowds of men and women, boys and girls, who frequent the busy spot. The women scream-men shout-the boys and girls, clad _a la nature_, laugh- the little pic'nees, (as the negroes call their babies,) clinging round their mothers' hips, squall. In this warm country, where meat is obliged to be dressed soon after it is killed, most of the stock is brought to market alive; so to this tumult of human voices is added the cry of goats, squeaking of pigs, cackling of poultry, &c. To increase the noise, the venders call out the different articles they have for sale:-"Want any corn _poon?_"

(_Ang._, pudding)-"Want any green corn _duckana, ladies?_" (a similar production)-"Want any _yam_ and _pitaters?_" (potatoes)- "Here's your peas and pork!" Another party cries-"Bargain, ladies! Bargain here!"-"Here's your 'trong cloth! Here's your nice handkerchief! tie your head smart as eber! Here aw you see de last an de bery best, aw you c.u.m buy um-only a bit and a half," (about 6d. sterling.) One cries out-"Pine tarts and pickled peppers!" while another vociferates-"Nice fat chickens, ladies, and castor oil!" rather heterogeneous articles, it must be allowed.

Evening brings no silence with it; for then the _cries_ increase.

"Candles here, ladies! Candles here! hard, like stones-burn like wax, (in plain English, _soft as b.u.t.ter_,) two for a half-a-bit!"

(2d. sterling.) "Here your nice crackers! (small American biscuits,) seven for a dog! Here your fine coffee! Cigars here!

Cigars here! only c.u.m see, make you buy! Here your nice cakes!- Fish! fish!! fish!!! just come out of the sea, ladies! ladies!

make haste, an buy dem!"-"Sugar-cakes here! Bread here! Salt fish here! c.u.m an look, only c.u.m an see!"-"Goat-meat here, ladies!

Sheep-meat! Vine here! (the vine of the sweet potato, used for fattening stock.)" "Want any gra.s.s? Want any wood? Want any pies?

Sweet _oranger_ here! Ripe pear, really nice!" besides a thousand other announcements, fill the air, and deafen the hearers. Talk of _London cries!_ oh! they are mere _whispers_ to the _West Indian ones!_ The "dustman's bell," or the "watchman's rattle,"

would, I verily believe, pa.s.s unnoticed amid their stormy tongues.

At the princ.i.p.al market, which is held upon a Sat.u.r.day, (the Sunday markets having been abolished, by orders of the legislature, in 1831,) all kinds of articles may be met with.

Beef, mutton, pork, and goat's flesh; live pigs, sheep, goats, and lambs; ducks, fowls, turkeys, geese, and guinea-birds; potatoes, yams, eddoes, peas, &c.; and fruits of every description, including the luscious pine-apple, the cooling melon, the fragrant guava, and the delicious "jelly cocoa-nut."

The market is also plentifully supplied with varieties of fish; some of which are very delicious fare. Besides these enumerated articles, hot soups, boiled horse-beans, boiled peas, and Indian corn, "fungy and pepperpot," (a standing Creole dish,) "fried fish and dumplings," souse, pigs' heads, and black puddings, with all kinds of cakes, bread, "drink," spruce-beer, Dyer drink, (made from a peculiar bark,) and different varieties of sugar-cakes, are exhibited, to allure the eye, and charm the taste of the sable beauties who attend this mart. Many other wares are also sold in this place of bustle, which, according to the Antigua black bellman, would be "to _tedus_ to _'numerate_."

It was formerly the custom to ring a market-bell at six in the morning, and the same hour in the evening, and also to have a clerk of the market, whose duty it was to see that the street where the market is held was properly swept, and that the people dispersed upon the ringing of the bell. For his services he received the sum of 200l. currency per annum; but the legislature at last thought it a waste of the public money, and within these few years the office has been disannulled. There is no markethouse at present, the princ.i.p.al market being held in a long street running from the court-house to one of the gates of the churchyard. It was under consideration of the house of a.s.sembly, some time ago, to erect a covered market, but the proposition was overruled.

From a visit to the market, we will take another turn, and accompany the bridal party in their attendance at the altar. In former days, during the existence of slavery, the ceremony of marriage was but seldom performed, consequently the nuptial feasts were "few and far between." The case, however, is now very different; for, since the "glorious 1st of August," (1834,) weddings are very frequent, and many a grand fete is given in honour of the "saffron-crowned G.o.d." The first step upon this eventful occasion is, of course, to get the bans of marriage published-or, as they term it, "to hab dere name call out"-unless they can afford to purchase a licence, which is the case with some. Then comes the purchasing of that "small and holy round,"

the wedding ring, the bridal dresses, and the wedding breakfast.

When all these preliminaries are arranged with satisfaction to themselves, the next grand point is to borrow, from different gentlemen, horses, gigs, and phaetons. Not being their own property, and not often having the _chance_ of shewing off their knowledge of the "whip," no mercy is shewn to the unfortunate animal they that day guide. To give _eclat_ to the wedding-day by astonishing the inhabitants of the town, the gentlemen drive as violently as they can up one street, down another, turn the corners like wildfire, and then, after running over a chicken or two, or disturbing the ruminations of a few quiet ducks, deposit their female companion at the church doors, and start away, in the same random manner, to fetch another fair dame from her homage at a sixpenny "looking-gla.s.s." It is impossible to describe the noise and confusion which ensues on mornings when such deeds are done,-Virgil's chariot-race was nothing to the speed with which these aspiring youths urge on the foaming steeds. The consequence of this is, that the horse is very often returned to his owner broken-kneed, or else killed upon the spot, by the shaft of another gig penetrating its chest; and the carriage left minus a shaft or a wheel.

At length the company a.s.semble in the church, the clergyman arrives, and the ceremony begins. The "blushing bride" has frequently to snuff up the fumes of her "eau de Cologne," to support her trembling frame in that moment of excitement, and many a rent is made in the white kid gloves, as such articles are drawn off to sign the marriage X, when, as it frequently happens, the art of writing has been dispensed with in their education.

The ceremony over, the party again enter the different vehicles, and after driving in the manner before described, re-a.s.semble at the house where the nuptial banquet has been prepared. This is conducted in similar style to the "ball supper," already mentioned; great mirth and jollity prevail at it; the health of the bride and bridegroom is drunk in "full goblets;" many a loyal and willing toast, no doubt, given, and then the company separate. I must not forget to mention that a wedding-cake of approved dimensions, and splendidly arrayed in gold and silver leaf is placed in the centre of the table, and calls for many a sidelong glance from those damsels who, as yet, are doomed to remain in single blessedness. Sometimes these wedding breakfasts, or whatever else they choose to term them, are held in the country; at other times, the company remain in town, and the bride and bridegroom retire there by themselves to spend a part of the "honeymoon," and then return to the capital to receive the complimentary congratulations of their friends, and make their appearance at church in their wedding attire.

The dress of the gentlemen upon this eventful occasion is similar to that worn by them at their b.a.l.l.s: bra.s.s chains and rings are rubbed up with chalk in order to restore their pristine brightness; silk stockings, dyed with the flowers of the Hybiscus to the colour of a pigeon's legs; and shops and stores ransacked, to procure waistcoats and stocks of the brightest dyes. The bride is generally arrayed in white: if they can raise sufficient _cash_, white silk, satin, or figured "challis" is the material; but if the funds are rather _low_, white muslin suffices them.

The bonnets are either white satin, or tuscans trimmed with white ribbon, and wreaths of white flowers are fashionably arranged on the left side. Veils are sometimes worn upon these occasions, (to hide their "_blushes_,") and "parasols and sandals," and then the lady's dressed. The morning after the wedding, the "bride's cake"

is sent round to their numerous acquaintance; and then they return to their usual business and their dishabille, until the sound of the "Sabbath bell" bids them open their chests of cedar-wood,[32] and put on their gala-dress. It may be remarked that the greater part of these "_blushing brides_," these "nervous fine ladies," have been living several years in a state of concubinage with different persons, and are perhaps the mothers of several children; but still marriage is a state which "calls up all our hopes and fears," and the black buckras[33] (as these dashing black people are called in this country) think the ceremony would be incomplete did they not shew forth some emotion, or call up from their source some of those

"----------- drops that fall, When the young bride goes from her father's hall."