Antigua and the Antiguans Volume I Part 18

In some parts of the town are auction rooms, where, with the same laudable zeal for "charming variety," things as distinct from each other as the nadir is from the zenith, are put up, the mysterious words "going, going, _gone_" uttered, and finally knocked down to the attendants-whites, blacks, and coloured.

Having mentioned the stores of those philanthropists, who, for the mere consideration of a little dirty _pelf_, undertake to provide so liberally for the inner man, it will be necessary to take a look at those temples of fashion, fancy, and fascination, commonly known in this island as "Scotch shops," or in other words, Antiguan haberdashery stores.

In a particular part of St. John's, running north and south, lies a well-made broad street, which, from being inhabited princ.i.p.ally by Scotchmen, is known by the appropriated name of "Scotch Row."

Capital stores (when I _am_ at Rome, I like to do as Rome does, and give everything its approved t.i.tle) flank each side of the street, and display their glittering wares to the admiration of pa.s.sers-by; and from whence (with but few exceptions) emanate those dresses and ribbons of a thousand dyes, with which the _fair s.e.x_ of _every colour_ delight to enrobe their lovely forms.

Here, as in the merchants' stores, may be found articles of the most opposite natures. In one part lies a delicate white satin bonnet, with its bunches of "orange flowers," to grace the head of some blushing bride, or decorated with the snowy plumes torn by the swarthy African from some swift-footed ostrich; while by its side reposes a broken ewer, or an iron pot.

You may, in truth, buy anything and everything in these "Scotch shops," from three farthings' worth of tape to the most costly articles. Dresses of all kinds; ribbons, laces, flowers, and bonnets; coats, vests, pantaloons, umbrellas, and shoes; blondes, scarfs, mantelets, perfumery, and _tenpenny nails_; paint, frying-pans, and carpets; jewellery of every description, dripping-pans, and Seidlitz powders; Epsom salts, ginger-beer, and white lead; horses' halters, cherry-tree chairs, and preserved fruits; children's dresses, lanterns, horse-whips, and coffee; sugar-loaves, saddles, bonnet-shapes, and white-handled knives; ladies' corsets, Valenciennes edging, and Westphalia hams; pigs' tongues, truckle cheese, and bird-seed; dish-covers, bottle-baskets, hooks-and-eyes, and brimstone; harness, cattle medicines, and lozenges; "Mechian" razor strops, and Metcalf's toothbrushes; with brandy, champagne, Madeira, sherry, port, sauterne, Rhenish wines, bottled stout, pale ale, gla.s.ses to drink all these good articles out of, and I know not what besides. Loaves of sugar dangling by the side of zephyr scarfs, or candle-boxes _vis-a-vis_ with ostrich feathers.

Oh! ye tradesmen of Regent-street, so polite and perfumed, and such _calibre_, who stand behind your glossy counters with the air of "my lord duke," or glide with noiseless steps and mincing airs over your Persian carpeted floor,-what, _what_ would you think of our Antiguan shops? Or how would those over-fashionable gentlemen at Storr and Mortimer's be astounded, when tendering for approval to "beauty bright" those costly gems which carry us back to the days of the Arabian nights, if they came in contact with a bra.s.s kettle or an iron pot!

I often wonder how the pale-faced, straight-haired clerks (for they are not termed _shopmen_ in this part of the world) manage to get on among such a multiplicity of dissimilar articles; or that from being asked for so many contrary goods during the day, they do not make many and greater mistakes. A lady drives up in her carriage to the door of one of these labyrinthan _depots_ of vanity, and in that "low soft voice so sweet in woman," asks to be shewn some orange flower chaplets, and essence of _Frangipanier_. The poor clerk, his brains turning round like a revolving light, flies to obey her commands; but lo! in his hurry and confusion, he catches up a _frying-pan_, and with streaming brow, presents the inelegant article to the lady's astounded and horrified gaze, instead of the delicate perfume.

The master of these gay and changeful stores, is as diversiformed as his goods are various. In the morning he stands behind his counter, and "bows to" and "ma'am's" any black member of the _canaille_ that condescends to purchase a few yards of "half-a-bit" (2d. sterling) ribbon to sandal her mill-post ankle; while in the evening, in all the glories of white pantaloons, new coat, smart b.u.t.tons and embroidered stock, he figures away at an aristocratic dinner party.

Times are indeed altered with these Scotchmen. In former years, when Sawney left his mountain home, his trouty lochs, and oaten bannocks, for the hot suns and debilitating climate of these "Isles of the West;" he did it for the sake alone of _siller_. As to ambition-faugh! he hated the very name, or else, like the c.o.c.k in Esop's fable, he spurned the glittering bauble, of which he knew not the worth. They plodded on from year to year, increased their stock of goods, and added many a round dollar to their worldly wealth, and then sat down contentedly to enjoy the smoky flavour of their usquebaugh, forming no greater acquaintance with the governor, than as they saw him proceed to the court-house in discharge of his high office, or knowing no more of government-house than the outer appearance.

But the Scotchmen of the present day scorn the lowly ideas of their predecessors. They ape the man of fashion, call their haberdashery store a merchant's warehouse, and foregoing the vulgar t.i.tle of draper, take to themselves the loftier name of _merchant_. Nor is this all. They attend the governor's _levees_, play the amiable at a quadrille party, frequent the billiard table, or perchance take wine with his excellency, and grin and bow with approved precision. Their shops prove an agreeable morning lounge for the superiors of the island, and in a gla.s.s of _sangaree_, or a flowing bowl of _pepper-punch_, the difference of grade between the entertainer and the entertained is overlooked.

That "there is no rule without an exception," is a true apophthegm; and among the many emigrants from the "land o'

cakes," some very respectable individuals are to be met with.

I believe it a correct statement to a.s.sert, that "Scotch Row"

begins with one of this superior cla.s.s, and ends with him who has been called "The father of the Scotchmen," not from his age, but from his high conduct.

Mr. H--- is a man in whom great urbanity is blended with strong determination of character. He possesses varied talents, and is no mean disciple of St. Cecilia's; and although, perhaps, not altogether ranking among the _literati_ in the fuller sense of that term, yet he

"--laughing can instruct Much has he read, Much more has seen: he studied from the life, And in the original perused mankind."

Philosophy to him, however, is no gloomy subject; no solemn stalking about wrapt up in his own stately ideas, and scorning, with cynic's eye, any harmless mirth. In the words of one of Britain's poets, I may say of him-

"--nor purpose gay, Amus.e.m.e.nt, dance or song, he sternly scorns."

Nature seems to have intended him for a higher occupation, than to stand behind a counter and sell a few yards of tape, or a paper of pins.

The streets of the capital have all their proper appellations, although no painted board announces such a fact to the traveller.

The east and west streets, beginning southerly, are-South-street, Tanner, Nevis, Ratcliff, St. Mary's, High, Long, Church, Newgate, Wapping, North, Bishopsgate, St. John's, St. George's; north and south streets, beginning easterly, are-East-street, Cross, Church-lane, Temple, Steeple-street, Corn, Market, Friendly-alley, Gutter-lane, Newgate-lane, Popeshead, Thames, Coney-Warren-lane, Subscription-alley, Craw-lane, Wilkinson's-street, and Mariner's-lane. Some of these lanes and alleys are famous for their _grog-shops_, particularly that establishment known by the appropriate name of "The Hole-in-the-Wall," for the only entrance is a low arched door-way scooped out of its ma.s.sy walls.

One part of the town bears the somewhat lofty t.i.tle of "The Parade." In former years it answered as a kind of exchange, where the merchants congregated together during "'Change hours," and discussed the business of the commercial world. Cargoes of all descriptions were here disposed of; dollars and doubloons in one moment changed owners, and human flesh and blood was openly bartered. For a long period, however, the Parade visibly declined in importance, and became but the shadow of itself; but within these last few years, it has, phnix like, sprung up with renewed vigour, and presents to the pa.s.senger's eye many good and bustling stores.

St. John's has, at various times, suffered severely from conflagrations-a circ.u.mstance not to be wondered at, when we consider the great number of wooden buildings, and the carelessness of persons in throwing about particles of fire. In 1769, an accident of this nature occurred, which was most direful in its consequence. It arose from the negligence of a woman who was employed in ironing, and who omitted to extinguish the fire in a coal-pot, after finishing her labours.

It may be necessary, perhaps, for the comprehension of some of my readers who may not be conversant with West Indian domestic subjects, to mention more fully the construction of a coal-pot.

In some of the islands these utensils are composed of clay, moulded into the form of buckets, and baked in a moderate fire; but the Antiguan coal-pot is nothing more nor less than a deal box, clamped with iron or tin, and lined with bricks plastered over. A few pieces of old iron hoop are placed horizontally across the box at stated intervals about halfway from the bottom, and upon these is placed a layer of charcoal. The irons are arranged upon the top, and the coals ignited; no bellows are used, except what Nature has afforded in the owners' own lungs; or when their breath fails, and the fuel still proves refractory, their large straw hat is displaced from their heads, and brandished before the mouths of their little stoves, with sundry e.j.a.c.u.l.a.t.i.o.ns of "Eh! eh! war do de co-als to-day, me b'lieve dem no want to burney."

But to return to the fire in 1769; it burnt with fearful rapidity. The gaol, custom-house, indeed nearly the whole town, fell a prey to the destructive element, 260 houses being levelled with the ground, and some of the finest stores and richest merchandise destroyed. Government granted 1000l. for the relief of the sufferers; and their kind friends in Liverpool collected, during the following year, the sum of 346l. 2s. 6d., which was thankfully and gratefully received.

Many other fires have occurred since then, the vestiges of which remain to this day; one in particular, known by the appropriate name of the burnt wall, is still pointed out to the notice of the stranger. Part of this land has been lately purchased by the Wesleyans, who have erected a small chapel upon it, which answers also for a school-room, and where preaching is held on Friday evenings.

But the conflagration which happened on the 2nd April, 1841, has effaced the memory of all other events of the same nature. It broke out in the house of a person carrying on the business of a straw bonnet-maker, after the family had retired to rest, and it was only discovered in time for the inmates to make their escape by jumping from the upper windows.

A few moments after it was first perceived, the walls fell, and the flames burst forth with a fearful rapidity, curling and twisting themselves in all directions; seizing upon every thing within their reach, and illuminating the heavens with their awfully grand l.u.s.tre. The church bell tolled forth its solemn warning; drums beat an alarm; and, in the words of an old writer, when describing the fire in London in 1666, "dreadful screams disturbed the midnight quiet, and raised the affrighted people from their beds, who, scarce awake, all seemed to be a dream.

Each one appeared but as a moving statue, as once Lot's wife, viewing her flaming Sodom, was transformed into a pillar."

So saith "Samuel Wiseman," and his graphic description answers equally for the fire of Antigua, as it did in yore, for that of London.

House after house, store after store, fell beneath the raging element; or, when built of stone, only their bare and blackened walls were left standing. No sooner was one house on fire, than the flames were pouring into the windows of the next; scathing the trees as they pa.s.sed, dismantling them of their verdure, and leaving them only a seared and withered trunk. Again the Custom House fell a victim, and to this cause many deficiencies in the statistical part of this work may be attributed; for, from the suddenness and violence of the fire, many valuable records were lost.

Still the fiery deluge rolled on,-at one moment the sky was almost hidden by the dense ma.s.ses of smoke; at another, bright spiral lines of flame shot up into the air, and cast a lurid light on all around. I am sorry to record it, but the negro-men behaved very ill, refusing to lend a.s.sistance, (in most instances,) but employing their time in plundering from the sufferers. To the glory of the women, be it spoken, _they_ did not follow the example of their kinsmen, but cheerfully and firmly laboured through that awful night. The crew of two French ships of war, which chanced to be lying in the harbour, also a.s.sisted, aided by the sailors from the English and island vessels; and the gentlemen of the town, headed by the lieutenant-governor, Major McPhail, (who flew to the scene of danger stockingless and almost slipperless,) worked with undaunted courage and good-will; and by dint of energy, and pulling down several small houses, so as to make room for the flames in their gyral evolutions, at length succeeded in gaining the mastery over their formidable enemy.

But, alas! when morning came, and threw a steady light upon the picture, what a melancholy sight was presented to the view. A long line of building, including the best and finest houses, entirely destroyed; lumber-yards and warehouses despoiled of their goods, and the very streets strewed ankle-deep with burnt salt-fish, peas, rice, flour, and similar articles! In some parts might be seen groups of negroes carousing around some gutted dwelling, tearing out the burning provisions, and, amid all this desolation and the mournful feelings of men, who, in one short night, had lost that for which they had toiled for years, shouting forth from their stentorian lungs s.n.a.t.c.hes of some baccha.n.a.lian song, or allowing their vacant heartless laugh to vibrate painfully upon the silent morning air.

Ever and anon, the smouldering fire sent up some fitful glare; or a brilliant coruscation of sparks, shot forth from some still burning log of pitch-pine, gilded the surrounding scene with their beautiful but dangerous showers. The fire burnt down to the sea-side; seizing upon the very timber of the wharfs and cranes, and destroying them to the water's edge. The amount of damage has been estimated at 250,000l. sterling; but the loss is more than can be calculated, for it has despoiled and depopulated one of the finest and busiest streets in the town, and which, from the depressed state of trade, will be long, very long, before it is again rebuilt.

More than eight months have silently rolled by since that awful cry of "Fire" awoke the Antiguans from their tranquil slumbers, and sent a thrill of dismay through the hearts of all. And there stand the ruins, blackened and cracked by the intense heat which caused the very gla.s.s to pour down in streams, which, when congealed, appeared like icicles; or else, only shewing by the open s.p.a.ce, where the ill-fated dwellings stood-where the voice of happy infancy once uttered many a jocund shout-or where the soft full tone of riper years carolled many a light and gladsome lay. Long gra.s.s and luxuriant weeds have already grown up in the spot once dedicated to business or pleasure, and the bat and the lizard have made it their own.

[68] The whites, or Buckra's, as they are called in the West Indies, however indigent in circ.u.mstances, pride prohibits them from engaging in such industrious pursuits.

[69] Used for covering the tops of houses, as tiles or slates are in England.

[70] A flag is always hoisted upon places where a sale is held.

CHAPTER XIX.

Description of the church of St John's-Period of its erection- Present site-Panoramic views-Form of structure-Length and breadth-Interior-Decorations-Monuments-Organ-Tower-Bells-Clock- Churchyard-Tombs and sepulchral inscriptions-An acrostic-"Adam and Eve!"

The first place of public worship erected in St. John's was the parochial church, commenced in 1683-4. It was a small wooden building, standing about sixty yards further to the south than the present church; and, if we are to believe an old writer, totally dest.i.tute of beauty or comfort. During the administration of Gen. Walter Hamilton, it was found to be in such a dilapidated state, that in 1716 the necessity of erecting a new church was submitted to the legislature; and with the concurrence of the members of that body, an act was pa.s.sed the same year, granting a provision for building a new place of worship, (to be dedicated to St. John,) and imposing a yearly tax for the purpose of keeping the said church in repair. It was not, however, until between the years 1721 and 1723, during the period that John Hart was administrating the government of these islands, that the erection of the church was commenced. Mr. Robert Cullen was the architect, and by his suggestions, its site was laid to the north of the old building; thus occupying the very spot where the militia were stationed in 1710, when ordered to fire upon Governor Park, in that unhappy difference between him and the country, and which ended so fatally to himself.

The present parochial church is pleasantly situated upon an ascent, at the head of the town, and commands from every side a wide and beautiful view of the surrounding country. From the west door, the eye ranges over the bustling town, with its motley groups of pa.s.sengers-dwells for a time upon the long line of ruined buildings destroyed by the fire already described-scans the lovely harbour, with its graceful shipping, the interesting bay of the Five Islands on the one side, and, on the other, a long line of cocoa-nut trees and brilliant sand, bespeaking the situation of d.i.c.kenson's Bay-and then roves on to the offing, where a large extent of ocean of the sweetest blue stretches out; and where, perhaps, a far-off sail may be seen, which looks in the distance like the white wing of some pa.s.sing gull.

From the south door, another beautiful and panoramic view may be obtained, particularly towards the close of the day, when the sun has almost completed his daily journey, and, shorn of his fervent beams, throws on every cloud his myriad dyes. The part of the town then presented to the gaze of the beholder slopes by a gradual descent towards the suburbs, bounded by Otto's Hill (an estate belonging to the representatives of Bastien Baijer) and the surrounding country. At the extent of the horizon runs a long range of mountains-the more distant ones presenting a greyish, gloomy colour, while others have their tops irradiated with a brilliant fringe of gold or purple, as the different clouds appear to rest upon them. Of this chain, the declivities of which afford every species of beauty, and every gradation of varying green, the lower ones are generally in a state of cultivation; and their undulating surface presents in some places groups of lovely trees, or breaks into patches of sugar-canes, cl.u.s.ters of negro-huts, and sugar-mills.

The church itself, which is built of brick, washed of a light yellow, is cruciform; the north and south vestibules forming the arms of the cross. The extreme length, from the inner west door to the altar-piece, is 130 feet; and the breadth, exclusive of the vestibules, (or porches,) is 50 feet. In the interior, eighteen plain wooden pillars divide the nave from the north and south aisles; the sixteen lower ones forming the support to the north and south galleries. The roof of the nave is a semicircular vault, painted to represent the heavens, with all their drapery of light and fleecy clouds; and when viewed from the west door, has a very pretty effect.

The chancel roof is of the same pitch, but of a pyramidal form; it is painted in the same manner as the nave, and is supported by four square fluted columns.

The altar is very beautifully devised. In the centre are the tables of the ten commandments, gold-lettered upon a black ground. On each side are full-length paintings of Moses, and of Aaron, in his "holy garments." That of Aaron is very finely executed; the face is such as we can imagine that of the great "high-priest" to have been, majestic, but beautiful; and the "robes," the "breast-plate," the "ephod," the "curious girdle,"

and the "golden censer," are very correctly painted. The outer tables of "The Belief" and "Lord's Prayer" are handsomely gilded- the inscription being executed in letters of black; and over the commandments, in the centre of the altar, is a medallion painting of cherubs. The several compartments are divided by gilded pilasters; the cornices, architraves, and friezes, are very pretty and tasteful; and in the inter-columniations are one or two triglyphs.