Antigua and the Antiguans Volume I Part 14

"Sink Hitts, July --.

"Deer Pomp Eye,

"You no I tould you how it wood be, but you all ways were a wild nagur, and wood neber hear reeson, and lubbed to follow your hedstrong ways. But now you are suffering for it, an I hope you'll repent, as good Ma.s.sa Parson says. You no you had no right to run away and leabe you yong pic'nees here to starbe. It was a most wicked act, but I 'spose the Capen who took you away will be made to support 'em as he ought. You are all no better dan Caraline who sent our fren Mushel's pic'nee widout him knowing at all 'bout it, to Jimmy Radder (Demerara), having sold him me magin to de Capen. What you say 'bout de Spaniards is all bery true, an likely to happen, an me tink wid you our Capens are not to be trusted, for you no what our fren Fletcher did for which he get hang-how he carry off Nagers from Nevis, and trowed dem in de sea and drowned dem. Now me no tink dese Capens will trow de Nagurs in de sea, but me tink it bery like dat dey will hab private signell wid de Spaniards, who will way lay an take de nagurs away at sea-for de Spaniards will gib de Capens two times as much for de free Nagurs to make slabes of dem, as de Capens can get in Jimmy Radder. I hab seen de skul of Fletcher, for me be sumthing of a _free-no-low-gist_ (phrenologist), and I a.s.sure you de skul of dese Capens hab gist de same _b.u.mps_. And not only dis, Ma.s.sa Pomp Eye, but dere is de law of Englan dat a vessel shall carry pa.s.sengers cording to he size, dat is, so many Nagurs to so many tun, now dese Capens do break dis law an dese vessels is lible to be seezed and comphiz catted. Dis law was made as me told, to make all de peeple c.u.mfurble dat all may hab room to walk 'bout an lie down, an sleep, an eat, an go safe, an to perwent de Capens from sack wry facing dem pa.s.sengers, and no noting 'bout dere bizness, for see how dey cram de Nagurs in like toze in de shu, an only de oder day a vessel ful of Nagurs sprung a plank off Mons' rat an was sinking fast an de Capen noed noting at all 'bout it until a noder ship met him an told him he was going down and dat all he poor Nagurs wood be drown. Oh! Pomp Eye, de Nagurs here be great fool for leabing dis bootiful country for sich muddy place as Jimmy Radder. Here dey hab plenty of fish from de sea, an dem dere be sich bootiful riber from de monting, an sich nice water to drink,-and dere is plenty of wood to cut, and dere is salt-fish, an pork, an beef, an all so cheap- an here nagurs be sirvalized, an de men an wimmin were cloze which dey do not do in Jimmy Radder, an on Sunday dey all go church an hab fine tings on. I'm told dat in Jimmy Radder dey can't boil or roast dere plantins widout de wurrums (worms) crying and crawling out, an dat derefore dey mash 'em up all togedder in de pot an so eat dem. Brutes! Is de nagur of Jimmy Radder like our Nagurs? Hab dey any beerds? I heer dey hab scales like de fishes from lying in de mud an water, an dat dere shoulder bones stick out like de fins of one fish. An dis is de reeson our wimmin nagurs go to Jimmy Radder, _for de wimmin always lobe de monsters_. Don't fret you self Ma.s.sa Pomp Eye 'bout de dollars for I neber expect 'em. Me no 'tis all de same in de end, if you be paid one quarter dollar here for working, an on half dollar dere, for de tings for eat an drink are twice as deer dere as dey be here, widout being half so good eder. No, no- me be content-me no like snakes an wurrum an dose tings you hab in Jemmy Radder-me lobe me fader land, an no like _mud_. Here we all be Cristan an can reed and rite, an no be naked savages like aw you. Your poor yong ones send dere lobe to you-but dey shant want bread to eat, as long as your fren Seizer libes.-So good bi, an rub you body wid rum to get rid of de hagur, (ague.)

"Your fren,

"Seizar."

So much for "Ma.s.sa Seizar's" letter. I am not aware who is the actual writer of it; but the reasoning he puts into "Seizar's"

mouth is sound, and by the form in which it is presented may not improbably produce more effect than a graver production.

The soil of Antigua is composed of two distinct sorts; the one, a rich black mould on a substratum of clay; the other, a stiff reddish clay, mixed with sand, upon a substratum of marl. The former of these is very productive when not suffering from those excessive droughts to which this island is particularly subject; but the latter is generally overrun with that species of herbage, known as "Devil Gra.s.s," (_Cynodon dactylon_,) which it is almost impossible to exterminate. Still, Antigua is one of the most fertile of the West India islands, and produces, in proportion, a larger crop than most of her sister colonies. The land requires, it is true, a quant.i.ty of manure, which is one reason for estates keeping such large herds of cattle as they do; but with the a.s.sistance of that, and the blessing of the "o'ercharged clouds,"

she seldom disappoints the hopes of her planters; while her sugar stands as high as any in the English markets, and her _rum_ has long been known for its pre-eminent qualities.

The mountains contain beautiful varieties of fossils, and other geological curiosities. Among these may be found in the south-west chain, ma.s.ses of trap, breccia, wacke, porphyry, &c.; and in the inland parallel chain, splendid specimens of coralline schist, agate, jasper, chalcedony, amydoloid, cornelian, and silicified wood are to be met with, of which I need only raise my eyes to those collected before me to say how beautiful they are.

These are generally found embedded in a matrix of a deep green colour, which of itself is very pretty, and when well arranged in buildings with the native free-stone, have a very good effect.

In the northern districts are found fragments of limestone, containing fossil sh.e.l.ls, spars, and crystals of quartz. This chain, running north and south, is supposed to pa.s.s under the sea, forming a reef, and reappearing at Monserrat: it is said that the fish found upon this reef are particularly poisonous.

"Church Hill," as it is termed, from the fact of the church being erected upon it, has been found to be composed of schist, enveloped in marl, and is particularly rich in its fossil sh.e.l.ls.

Thanks to the new flight of steps which have been lately erected, and the modifications made around that sacred building, (which has obliged the workmen to blast the rock,) I have been enabled to collect some fine varieties. Among these are conchs, c.o.c.kles, &c., in which the striae are perfect, and some of them are beautifully crystalized.

In almost all parts of the island petrifactions are to be met with. Among the most beautiful of those I have seen, may be enumerated red cedar, with agate intermixed; roots and branches of cocoa-nut trees; plantain stalks, with beautiful lines of agate running through them; a species of palm; a root of the dagger, (_aloe vulgaris_;) the black mangrove, a branch of a tree, supposed to be the ceibar, or silk-cotton, with cornelian; besides many other varieties. Ochres of various colours are also to be dug in some districts; and in most parts of the island are quarries of stone; but they are not generally made an article of traffic.

In some parts of the island are salt ponds, which might be worked to advantage here as well as at St. Kitts and Turk's Island; but the Antiguans are not of an enterprising spirit; at least, all their attention is bestowed upon the cultivation of the sugar-cane, and if that succeeds, they are perfectly satisfied.

Were it otherwise, there are many productions which might prove important and beneficial articles of commerce. Tobacco grows spontaneously about the country; coffee has become naturalized, and grows wild; it is said to be inferior in quality to that which grows in the other islands; but would not culture do much for it? Cotton, ginger, palma Christi,-all are disregarded; even the pimento is left to decay in its loveliness, and its fragrant fruit serves but to feed the feathered tribe; except when, at Christmas, its odorous boughs are gathered to flavour the plum-puddings of the negroes, or decorate the churches and houses, as the holly does in England.

Although the islands of the West Indies, being all situated between the Tropics, are, as regards climate, very similar, yet Antigua is generally reckoned more salubrious than any of the others. Possibly, the reason of this may be attributed to the dryness of the soil, for we have no rivers, and very few marshes, as in many of the other islands, to exhale any degree of humidity. The towns are now also kept very clean and wholesome, particularly the capital, so that island seldom suffers from any pestilential diseases. The "Yellow Fever," that dreaded scourge of the West Indies, has, however, frequently raged here to great extent, particularly in former years. In 1793 it was very violent in its effects-nearly the whole of the inhabitants of St. John's fell ill with it, and many deaths occurred. It broke out in the shipping in the harbour, and was supposed to have been brought ash.o.r.e in a blanket, which had been wrapt round a person who had fallen a victim to it. In 1816 it again appeared, but not to such extent; but after the hurricane, in 1835, it raged with much virulence,-s.n.a.t.c.hed many a young and beloved one from the family circle-separated parent and child-severed the holy bands of matrimony, and laid its victims in the cold and silent grave.

It was supposed to be occasioned by the different effluvia which tainted the air after the gale; particularly that from the filth, which had for so many years been acc.u.mulating at the bottom of the harbour, and which, from the violence of the wind, had been completely stirred up.

The warmest months of the year are June, July, and August. The sun, when not obscured by the density of the clouds, shines with a burning l.u.s.tre; and did he not

"--- kind before him send The genial breeze, to mitigate his fire, And breathe refreshment on a fainting world,"

the heat would be insupportable.

The meridian height of the thermometer, during this season, is, in the shade, about 80, and the other parts of the year 70; but I have observed the mercury to be, from the end of June to the end of August, from 86 to 90, and often even higher. The sun is vertical at Antigua on the 7th of May and the 5th of August; and consequently on those days the inhabitants are ascii at noon.

September, and the two succeeding months, are generally reckoned the most unhealthy periods of the year. At one moment, the sun darts its rays with an intensity almost insupportable, while the sea-breeze (that friend to sufferers from "all-conquering heat") dies away, and a slothful calm prevails; at other times, the sun is hidden by black portentous clouds; the air is chilly and unwholesome, and rank and noxious vapours are abroad.

The longest day consists of about 13 hours; the shortest about ten. In these lat.i.tudes, there is scarcely any aurora, or twilight, so that it is scarcely light until the sun is up, and soon after he sets, it becomes dark.

Suffering as the inhabitants do, from the great heat of the days, the delightful evenings are particularly enjoyed. No sooner has the sun hidden his rays in the bosom of the ocean, than the land-breeze arises; this, blowing as it were from the centre of the island, towards the sea, appears to come from all points of the compa.s.s at once. Evening is the time for walking; and often have I seen beautiful faces, and bright eyes, gleaming in the moonbeams.

Every author who has written about these "sunburnt isles," has, I think, mentioned the beauties of a West Indian night, and well worthy is it to be praised. The sky is of a deeper and more lovely blue, almost approximating to violet; and the atmosphere is so much clearer than in England, that many stars are visible to the naked eye which there require the aid of a telescope. The larger planets glitter with a refulgence unknown to more temperate lat.i.tudes-

"With purest ray, Sweet Venus shines,"

and appears almost like another moon. Mars rolls on in eternal solitude, shewing his broad red face to our wondering gaze.

Bright-eyed Jove, with his "atmospheric belt," almost blinds us with his l.u.s.tre; while the galaxy (or milky way) looks like-

"A circling zone, powder'd with stars;"

thus they glide on in their beauty-

"Bright wanderers o'er the blue sky free;"

but oh! when our own attendant planet, the "Silver Queen of night," rises in peerless majesty, shedding a flood of glory over all the surrounding landscape, the scene is inexpressibly lovely.

How often, when enjoying her beams, and gazing on her "spotted disk," have I thought of those lines of Mrs. Charlotte Smith-

"And while I gaze, thy mild and placid light Sheds a soft calm upon my troubled breast; And oft I think, fair planet of the night, That in thy orb the wretched might find rest."

The stillness and calmness of an English summer's evening have been often and often described by our poets; here, however, no quietness is to be met with, but on the contrary all is bustle and noise. Sounds of every description fill the air, as soon as "evening grey" sets in. Parties of negroes, men, women, and children, gather together in groups, worthy the ill.u.s.trative pencil of Cruikshank, to gabble away their _nancy stories_, relate their quarrels, or discuss the other business of the day.

Bats of every size and shape fly backwards and forwards in search of their prey, or pay you an unceremonious visit through the open _jalousies_ of your houses. Crickets and frogs raise their shrill pipes, which grate most unmusically upon the ear; c.o.c.k-roaches (those disgusting pests of the West Indies) crawl over the floors, or ceilings of the apartments, or at times take the liberty of brushing in your face, or nestling in your hair; mosquitoes hum their monotonous song, or insert their proboscis into every accessible part of your flesh; while the land crabs clatter about, just like an old woman in pattens. The houses are lighted up as if for an illumination, the windows are thrown open to admit the evening air, and the fair inhabitants amuse themselves by playing upon harpsichords, or similar musical instruments, "Blue Bells of Scotland," "Home, Sweet Home," and other popular melodies.

CHAPTER XVI.

Scenery of Antigua-Pilgrimage to "Tom Moore's Spring"-The G.o.ddess Mnemosyne-Fig-Tree Hill-The "Bower of Bliss"-"Old Road"

-The Strand-The cross s.e.xton-The parochial school-Old Road Church-Tomb of Col. Williams-Moravian settlement-Salt ponds- Copses-"Crab Hill"-Sandy Valley-The Valley Church-The rising moon-Arrival in town-Night, and night dreams.

With respect to the scenery of Antigua, it is said to be neither "grand nor magnificent," that "its mountains are too much like mole-hills,"[62] and in many other ways has it been depreciated; yet there are some spots of real beauty, which would strike the eye of even a painter or a poet. To see some of these to the greatest advantage, I would advise all such readers as have it in their power to take a drive or a ride (whichever they prefer) some fine morning to "Fig Tree Hill," and return by "Crab Hill."

They will then meet with spots of such transcendent loveliness, as will cause the most unpoetic to exclaim, "Beautiful!

beautiful!" But as some of my readers, perhaps, may never have the chance of taking such a tour, in pity to them, I will attempt to describe what I saw in my pilgrimage to "Tom Moore's Spring."

It was a lovely morning (as most West India mornings are) when we started upon our journey. The sun shone bright and clear; indeed, far too clear for actual comfort, had we gone as "pilgrims grey,"

with "scalloped hat," and "sandled shoon," and resting on our "staves;" but we preferred the less romantic, but more pleasant way of taking it quietly in our carriage. Quickly we pa.s.sed through the town of St. John's, leaving its busy inmates, its shops and stores, its "Scotch row" and Scotchmen, and all its noise and bustle, for the quietness and freshness of the country.

Upon gaining "Otto's Hill," at the outskirts of the town, I looked back upon the beautiful harbour of St. John's, its blue waves just rippling the surface, its barques and brigs, schooners and sloops, bowing their heads as if in graceful homage to some sea-G.o.d from old King Neptune's court; and its sloping sh.o.r.es displaying a carpet of luxuriant green, for a little rain which had fallen not long before had clothed the fields in a garb of lovely verdure. While thinking upon all these beauties, and the images they called up, my poetic fancies were crushed by the horrible noise of a long string of "cattle carts" and their sable drivers, coming into town with a load of mola.s.ses for "Brother Jonathan," or some other worthy. This brought me down from the seventh heaven, and made me just then find out that it was very _hot_, and the road disagreeably dusty. However, in our pilgrimage through life, we meet with many crosses, and many _dusty spots_; and therefore, in our pilgrimage to "Tom Moore's Spring," we could but expect the same.

The country certainly looked very pretty upon this eventful day, for every spot was green, and as we pa.s.sed the numerous estates, an air of gladness seemed to be abroad. The breeze blew soft from off the mountains we were approaching, and greeted our olfactory nerves with the odour of the yellow acacia, which grew along the side of the road in vast profusion. In a short time, we reached the banks of a small rivulet, the only real stream Antigua can boast of, for the few others we pa.s.sed owed their source more to the late rains than anything else. This rivulet was bordered by bamboos, and other species of wild cane, while larger trees, in many parts, shewed their gnarled roots, and bent their long boughs to kiss the swift gliding waters. Various aquatic plants grew along its margin, while in the stream itself sported my own country's water-lily, bright nymphaea. Near to the spot stands a rural little temple of worship, with its plain white walls, and a little cross upon its roof, and across the rivulet is thrown a rustic bridge. This is a favourite resort for country washerwomen, and as we pa.s.sed, many of them were busily engaged in their very necessary avocations; but as none of them presented the appearance of a nymph or a naad, I will not introduce them to my readers.

We had heard of the bad state of the roads before we left our home, of the hills we had to mount, and the dingles we had to go down; of the terrible ravines on one side, and the bare rocks on the other, and of places where the least swerve of the carriage would send us over, and then, according to our informant, "it would be no use to go look for you." At every turn of the road, then, we looked for some trial, and "screwed up our courage to the sticking-point," that we might be enabled to overcome them; but after travelling for some time, and meeting with nothing very terrific, we began to console ourselves, and remark, that the difficulties appeared to lie in the imagination. At length, we came to a pretty steep hill, which we surmounted in due time, and again sped on our way joyfully, thinking that all was very fair, when lo! up rose before us, if not a _mountain_, at least, a _giant hill_. Here would be the "tug of war," so we called a council. "What is to be done?" was the first query. "Why, either _go on_ or _go back_" was the answer. The old adage of "out of two evils, choose the least," came into our thoughts. There was the hill behind, and the hill before, so we agreed to lay the various "for's" and "against's" before us in a very orthodox manner.

To commence then: if we go on, we must mount this hill, but when we have accomplished that, we shall have no other of great consequence; we were near half way, so we should have almost as far to go back as to go on; on the other side, if we returned, we should still have a hill before us, and not have the consolation of visiting the celebrated "fig-tree." Having come to the conclusion of our arguments, the word was given "forward," and forward we attempted to go; but there were some of our party whose opinions had not been asked, but who, no doubt, felt as great concern in the decision as any one else; I mean those very n.o.ble animals ycleped "horses," and for reasons my readers may easily conceive they appeared resolved not to proceed. After a few words of encouragement, however, and a few caresses, they agreed to lend us their aid, and once more we started.

During the period that all this momentous business was going on, we had totally neglected the appearance of the weather, and had not a drop or two of rain fallen, and the sound of a distant clap of thunder echoed round us, I dare say we should not have thought upon such a subject. Here, then, was romance; a thunder-storm, and "Sawcolt Hill"-it only wanted an old castle and a horde of banditti to make it a scene worthy the pen of a "Radcliffe." The lambent lightning played for awhile, and the thunder bellowed through the boundless sky, and then pa.s.sed slowly away to the west, very much to my satisfaction. "Sawcolt Hill" was ascended, and descended, and the road became more beautiful at every turn, until at length we stood by the side of the noted freshwater spring. And what then were my reflections? I thought it was lovely in everything but its name-"Tom Moore's Spring!" Who, in the name of all that's romantic, could call such a spring by such a name? Had it been the "fairy's spring," or the "spring of the mountain sylph," or something of the kind, it would have sounded as it ought, and some charming legend might have been attached.

But who could ever inquire after "Tom Moore?" Why, the name of such a being puts all fancies to the flight!

Thus far had my thoughts wandered, when suddenly, an ideal form pa.s.sed before me; her sweet and cla.s.sic countenance-her eyes which mocked the heavens in their dye-her long and silken lashes which drank the dew of her vermilion cheeks, all conspired to render me entranced. A blue mantle floated from her shoulders, and a thousand graces hovered round her steps. As she glided away, she placed one of her taper fingers upon her ruby lips, and, in a voice of liquid sweetness, uttered the word, "Remember!" I knew her for the G.o.ddess "Mnemosyne," and I tried to follow her behest. My beautiful G.o.ddess a.s.sisted me, and brought to my recollection that "Bulbul of a thousand songs,"

that sweet rhymer who charms us with his "bower of roses by Bendameer's stream," as with his melodies of the "Emerald Isle,"

he who bears the well-known appellation of "Tom Moore." I remembered all this to my shame, and determined in future never to utter one word against it, did all the springs in Antigua bear that name. After making this resolution, I turned once more to inspect "Tom Moore's Spring." The water is as clear as crystal, and of a refreshing coolness; and as it trickles from beneath the roots of a large bamboo growing by, each drop looks like liquid pearl. It has never been known to be dry, let the season be what it will, and consequently must be of inexpressible value to the adjoining estates. It was formerly built round with a stone wall, but that has long ago fallen to ruin, and no one has troubled himself to erect it again. I blame none, however, upon this score, for, in my opinion, it looks more romantic as it is; nature has done much for it, and art would only spoil her work.