An Aviator's Field Book Part 6

On July 28th I went aboard a gunboat bound for Chanak, with a tow.

Gallipoli is a village, with a number of outlying barracks. Several houses on the sh.o.r.e were destroyed by gunfire. Arrived in Chanak toward noon, and went to Merten-Pasha to report. In the afternoon I went to the aviation field and flew over Troy--k.u.m Kale--Sedil Bar, to the old English position. The flight was beautiful, and the islands of Imbros and Tenedos were as if floating on the clear sea. In the Bay of Imbros we could plainly see the English ships. Outside of the usual maze of trenches we could plainly see the old English camps. Close to Thalaka there was an English U-Boat and a Turkish cruiser, both sunk, and lying partly out of water. At Sedil Bar, a number of steamers and a French battleship were aground. The dead, hilly peninsula was plainly visible. At Kilid Bar, there were large Turkish barracks.

JULY 30, 1916

Went on a small steamer to Sedil Bar. We got off a little before we reached our destination, to go over the whole position with a naval officer, who awaited us. The difference between the Turkish and English positions was striking. The English, of course, had had more and better material to work with. Now it is nothing but a deserted wreck. Then I looked at the English landing places. Here, the Englishmen had simply run a few steamers aground to protect themselves. After a hasty breakfast, I flew to D. with M. and from there, along the north sh.o.r.e of the Sea of Marmora, to St. Stefano.

JULY 31, 1916

To-day was Bairam (Turkish Easter). Flags everywhere; people all dressed in their best; large crowds on the street; sale of crescent flowers on the streets, and parades.

AUGUST 1, 1916

After a short stay in the War Department and the Bazar, I left for Constantinople. Enver Pasha travels on the same train. He had me brought to him by his servant at tea time. He was very talkative and interesting, and talked almost only German.

AUGUST 2, 1916

Toward eleven o'clock, after an enjoyable trip through a well-cultivated section of Rumania, I arrived in Sofia, after pa.s.sing a Turkish military train. Here I was received by a number of German aviators. In the afternoon, took a trip through Sofia, which makes the same impression as one of the central German capitals. Short visit in the cadet school, then went to the large cathedral.

AUGUST 3, 1916

The military finish I noticed in the cadet school the day before impressed me favorably. H. and I went to the aviation field in Sofia; most of the machines were Ottos.

In the afternoon, I went to the flying school with H. Our guide, Captain P., showed us as special attraction a Bleriot, which he had.

The school is still in the first stages of development. From there we went to the resort called Banje, which is nicely located.

In the evening, I was at supper with a military attache, and met Prince Kyrill. He interested me very much, and talked quite intelligently about a number of things.

AUGUST 4, 1916

Early in the morning, I reported to the Bulgarian Secretary of War, who conversed with me for a long while. He is small in stature and talks German fluently. Then I visited a cavalry barracks, where I also saw the new machine-gun companies. Toward evening I took a stroll in the Boris Gardens, and admired the beauty of Sofia.

AUGUST 5, 1916

After an audience with the Bulgarian Chief of Staff, I went to Uskub _via_ Kustendil in an auto. Fischer, my valet, who was along, had to get out _en route_ to make all our train arrangements. In Kustendil, I stopped over, and at the Casino I was with the Bulgarian Chief of Staff. Then there was an interesting trip to Uskub, where I arrived at nine o'clock.

AUGUST 6, 1916

In the afternoon I was with General Mackensen, and sat next to him at the table. Mackensen talked with me for quite a while. He is serious-looking, but not nearly as stern as his pictures lead one to believe.

Later, I went by train to Hudova, and reached aviation headquarters, where I was given a fine welcome in the barracks. The aviators all live in wooden shacks, in a dreary neighborhood. This is not an enviable place to be, especially since they have had nothing to do for months.

AUGUST 7, 1916

In the morning I paid a visit to another division of flyers, and with Captain E. I flew up and down the Greek front. Then I went back to Uskub, where I spent the night.

AUGUST 8, 1916

Went back to Sofia in the auto. Had several punctures, which were really funny, because my Bulgarian chauffeur and I could converse by sign language only. On the road, not far from k.u.manova, there was a Macedonian fair, which was very interesting. The peasants, in white clothes, danced an odd but pretty dance, to music played on bagpipes and other instruments.

AUGUST 9, 1916

This morning, shortly before I left, I received a Bulgarian medal for courage. This was presented to me by the adjutant of the Minister of War, together with the latter's picture. I am now going to the Austrian headquarters, from where I mean to see the east front. I don't know yet how I will get the time.

AUGUST 10, 1916

In the afternoon, short auto ride; in the evening, reported to General Conrad.

AUGUST 11, 1916

Presented myself at Archduke Frederick's and met General Cramon. At eleven o'clock, went on toward Kovel.

AUGUST 12, 1916

Arrived in Kovel about eight. Reported to General Linsingen.

AUGUST 15, 1916

Rode to Brest, which is gutted by fire.

AUGUST 16, 1916

Reported to General Ludendorff. Before eating was presented to Field Marshal Hindenburg. At table, sat between Hindenburg and Ludendorff.

In the afternoon, flew to Warsaw.

AUGUST 17, 1916

Rode to Wilna.

AUGUST 18, 1916

Rode to Kovno and then to Berlin.