An Autobiography Part 6

Horsley, R.A., is such a genial, hearty sort of man. He says he shouldn't wonder if my name was mentioned in the Royal speeches at the dinner. Lady Somebody introduced me to Miss Florence Nightingale's sister, who wanted to know if there was any possibility of my "most kindly" letting the picture be taken, at the close of the exhibition, to her poor sister to see. Miss Nightingale, you know, is now bedridden. Now I must stop. More to-morrow....'

I remember how on the following Sunday my good friend Dr. Pollard, who lived close to my boarding house, waylaid me on my way to ma.s.s at the Oratory, and from his front garden called me in stentorian tones, waving the _Observer_ over his head. On crossing over I learnt of the speeches of the Prince of Wales and the Duke of Cambridge at the Academy banquet the evening before, in which most surprising words were uttered about me and the picture.

"_Monday, May 4th_.--The opening day of the Royal Academy. A dense crowd before my grenadiers. I fear that fully half of that crowd have been sent there by the royal speeches on Sat.u.r.day. I may say that I awoke this morning and found myself famous. Great fun at the Academy, where were some of my dear fellow students rejoicing in the fulfilment of their prophecies in the old days. Overwhelmed with congratulations on all sides; and as to the papers, it is impossible to copy their magnificent critiques, from _The Times_ downwards.

"_Wednesday, May 6th_.--The Queen had my picture abstracted from the R.A. last night to gaze at, at Buckingham Palace! It is now, of course, in its place again. Went with Papa to the brilliant Goldsmiths' Ball, where I danced. I was a bit of a lion there, or shall I say lioness? Sir William Ferguson was introduced to me; and he, in his turn, introduced his daughter and drank to my further success at the supper. Sir F.

Chapman also was presented, and expressed his astonishment at the accuracy of the military details in my picture. He is a Crimean man. The King of the Goldsmiths was brought up to me to express his thanks at my 'honouring' their ball with my presence. The engravers are already at me to buy the copyright, but my dear counsellor and friend, Seymour Haden, says I am to accept nothing short of 1,000, and get still more if I can!

"_May 10th_.--The Dowager Lady Westmoreland, who is about 80, and who has lost pleasure in seeing new faces, when she heard of my Crimean picture, expressed a great wish to see me, and to-day I went to dine at her house, meeting there the present earl and countess, an old Waterloo lord, and Henry Weigall and his wife, Lady Rose. The dear old lady was so sweet. She was the Duke of Wellington's favourite niece, and his Grace's portraits deck the walls of more than one room. Her pleasure was in talking of the Florence of the old pre-Austrian days, where she lived sixteen years, but my great pleasure was talking with the earl and the Waterloo lord, who were most loquacious. Lord Westmoreland was on Lord Raglan's staff in the Crimea.

"_May 11th_.--Received cheque for the 'San Pietro in Vincoli' and 'Children of St. Francis.' My popularity has _levered_ those two poor little pictures off. Messrs. d.i.c.kinson & Co. have bought my copyright for 1,200!!!"

There follows a good deal in the Diary concerning the trouble with Mr.

Galloway, who made hard conditions regarding his ceding "The Roll Call"

to the Queen, who wished to have it. He felt he was bound to let it go to his Sovereign, but only on condition that I should paint him my next Academy picture for the same price as he had given for the one he was ceding, and that the Queen should sign with her own hand six of the artist's proofs when the engraving of her picture came out. I had set my heart on painting the 28th Regiment in square receiving the last charge of the French Cuira.s.siers at Quatre Bras, but as that picture would necessitate far more work than "The Roll Call," I could not paint it for that little 126--so very puny now! So I most reluctantly suggested a subject I had long had _in petto_, "The Dawn of Sedan," French Cuira.s.siers watching by their horses in the historic fog of that fateful morning--a very simple composition. To cut a very long story short, he finally consented to have "Quatre Bras" at my own price, 1,126, the copyright remaining his. All this talk went on for a long time, and meanwhile, all through the London society doings, I made oil studies of all the grey horses for "Sedan." The General Omnibus Company sent me all shades of grey _percherons_ for this purpose. I also made life-size oil studies of hands for "Quatre Bras," where hands were to be very strong points, gripping "Brown Besses." So I took time by the forelock for either subject. I was very fortunate in having the help of wise business heads to grapple with the business part of my work, for I have not been favoured that way myself.

There is no mention in the Diary of the policeman who, a few days after the opening of the Academy, had to be posted, poor hot man, in my corner to keep the crowd from too closely approaching the picture and to ask the people to "move on." That policeman was there instead of the bra.s.s bar which, as a child, I had pleased myself by imagining in front of one of my works, _a la_ Frith's "Derby Day." The R.A.'s told me the bar created so much jealousy, when used, that it had been decided never to use it again. But I think a live policeman quite as much calculated to produce the undesirable result. I learnt later that his services were quite as necessary for the protection of two lovely little pictures of Leighton's, past which the people _sc.r.a.ped_ to get at mine, they being, unfortunately, hung at right angles to mine in its corner. What an unfortunate arrangement of the hangers! Horsley told me that they went every evening after the closing, with a lantern, to see if the two gems had been scratched. They were never seen. I wonder if Leighton had any feelings of dislike towards "that girl." She who in her 'teens records her prostrations of worship before his earlier works, ere he became so coldly cla.s.sical.

It is a curious condition of the mind between grat.i.tude for the appreciation of one's work by those who know, and the uncomfortable sense of an exaggerated popularity with the crowd. The exaggeration is unavoidable, and, no doubt, pa.s.ses, but the fact that counts is the power of touching the people's heart, an "organ" which remains the same through all the changing fashions in art. I remember an argument I once had with Alma Tadema on this matter of touching the heart. He laughed at me, and didn't believe in it at all.

"_Tuesday, May 12th._--Mr. Charles Manning and his wife have been so very nice to me, and this morning Mrs. M. bore me off to be presented to His Grace of Westminster, with whom I had a long interview. What a face!

all spirit and no flesh. After that, to the School of Art Needlework to meet Lady Marion Alford and other Catholic ladies. I ordered there a pretty screen for my studio on the strength of my 1,200! Thence I proceeded on a round of calls, going first to the Desanges, where I lunched. There they told me the Prince of Wales was coming at four o'clock to see the Ashanti picture Desanges is just finishing. They begged me to come back a little before then, so as to be ready to be presented when the moment should arrive. I returned accordingly, and found the place crowded with people who had come to see the picture. As soon as H.R.H. was announced, all the people were sent below to the drawing-room and kept under hatches until Royalty should take its departure; but I alone was to remain in the back studio, to be handy.

All this was much against my will, as I hate being thrust forward. But, as it turned out, there was no thrusting forward on this occasion, and all was very nice and natural. The Prince soon came in to where I was, Mr. Desanges saying 'Here she is' in answer to a question. His first remark to me was, of course, about the picture, saying he had hoped to be its possessor, etc., etc., and he asked me how I had got the correct details for the uniforms, and so on, having quite a little chat. He spoke very frankly, and has a most clear, audible voice."

Of course, the photographers began bothering. The idea of my portraits being published in the shop windows was repugnant to me. Nowadays one is snapshotted whether one likes it or not, but it wasn't so bad in those days; one's own consent was asked, at any rate. I refused. However, it had to come to that at last. My grandfather simply walked into the shop of the first people that had asked me, in Regent Street, and calmly made the appointment. I was so cross on being dragged there that the result was as I expected--a rather hara.s.sed and coerced young woman, and the worst of it was that this particular photograph was the one most widely published. Indeed, one of my Aunts, pa.s.sing along a street in Chelsea, was astonished to see her rueful niece on a costermonger's barrow amongst some bananas!

CHAPTER IX

ECHOES OF "THE ROLL CALL"

On May 14th I lunched at Lady Raglan's. Kinglake was there to meet me, and we talked Crimea. I had read and re-read his much too prolix history, which I thought overburdened with detail, giving one an impression of the two Balaclava charges as lasting hours rather than minutes. But I had learnt much that was of the utmost value from this very superabundance of detail. Then on the next day I rose early, and was off by seven with the Horsleys to Aldershot at the invitation of Sir Hope Grant, of Indian celebrity, commanding, who travelled down with us.

"Lady Grant received us at the house, where we found a nice breakfast, and where I got dried, being drenched by a torrential downpour. Would that it had continued longer, if only to lay the hideous sand in the Long Valley, which made the field day something very like a fiasco. I tried to sketch, but my book was nearly blown out of my hand, my umbrella was turned inside out and my arms benumbed by the cold. M., most luckily, was on the field, and Mrs. Horsley and I were soon comfortably ensconced in his hansom cab and trying to feel more comfortable and jolly. When the sham fight began we had to keep shifting our standpoint, and Mrs. H. and I had repeatedly to jump out of the hansom, as we were threatened by an upset every minute over those sandhills. As to the two charges of cavalry, which Sir Hope had on purpose for me, I could hardly see them, what with the dust storms half swallowing them up in dense dun-coloured sheets and my eyes being full of sand. However, I made the most of the situation, and hope I have got some good hints. I ought to have so much of this sort of thing, and hope to now, with all those 'friends in court!' When the march past began Sir Hope sent to ask me if I would like to stand by his charger at the saluting base, which I did, and saw, of course, beautifully. I felt extraordinarily situated, standing there, half liking and half not liking the situation, with an enormous mounted staff of utterly unknown, gorgeous officers curvetting and jingling behind me and the general. As one regiment pa.s.sed, marching, as I thought, just as splendidly as the others, I heard Sir Hope snap at them 'Very bad, very bad. Don't, don't!' And I felt for them so much, trusting they didn't see me or mind my having heard."

Three days later, at a charming lunch at Lady Herbert's, I met her son, Lord Pembroke, and Dr. Kingsley, Charles's brother--"The Earl and the Doctor." It was interesting to see the originals of the t.i.tle they gave their book. The next day people came to the Academy to find, in place of "The Roll Call," a placard--"This picture has been temporarily removed by command of Her Majesty." She had it taken to Windsor to look at before her departure for Scotland, and to show to the Czar, who was on a visit.

Calderon, the R.A., whom I met that evening, told me the Academy had never been receiving so many daily shillings before, and that it ought to present me with a diamond necklace. And so forth, and so forth--all noted in the faithful Diary, wherein many extravagances of the moment in my regard are safely tucked away. Two days later I see: "_May 20th._--The Woolwich review was quite glorious. I went with Lady Herbert, the Lane Foxes, Lord Denbigh and Capt. Slade. We posted there and back with two jolly greys and a postboy in a sky-blue jacket. This was quite after my own heart. Lord Denbigh talked art and war all the way, interesting me beyond expression. We were in the forefront of everything on arrival, next the Saluting Point, round which were grouped the most brilliant sons of Mars I ever saw gathered together, and of various nations. The Czar Alexander II. headed these, flanked by my two friends, the Prince of Wales and the Duke of Cambridge. The artillery manuvres were effective, and I sketched as much as I could, getting up on the box, Lord Denbigh holding my parasol over my head, as the sun was strong. I suppose people like spoiling me just now, or _trying_ to."

Then, two days later, I note that I dined at Lady Rose Weigall's, my left-hand neighbour at table the Archbishop of York, Dr. Thomson, who took in the hostess. He and I seem to have talked an immense deal about all sorts of things. He confided to me that his private opinion was that the Irish Church should never have been disestablished. In the course of further conversation I thought it better to let him know I was a Catholic by a pa.s.sing remark. I said I thought the Neapolitans did not make such solid Catholics as the English. He stared, none too pleased!

The next night I met at the Westmorelands', at dinner, Lord George Paget, Colonel Kingscote, and Henry Weigall, my host of the previous evening. Lord George was drawn out during dinner about Balaclava, and I listened to his loud cavalry soldier's talk with the keenest interest.

He protested that we were making him say too much, but we were insatiable. Lord George was a man I had tried to picture; he was almost the last to ride back from the light cavalry charge. His manner and speech were _soldatesque_, his expressions requiring at times a "saving your presence" to the ladies, as a prefix. For me time flew in listening to this interesting Balaclava hero, and it was very late when I made up my mind to go, a wiser but by no means a sadder girl.

At a dinner at Lady Georgiana Fullerton's my sister and I met Aubrey de Vere, who delighted Alice with his conversation. The general company, however, seem to have chiefly amused themselves with the long and, on the whole, silly controversy which was appearing in _The Times_ regarding the sequence of the horse's steps as he walks. It began by my horse's walk in "The Roll Call" having been criticised by those who held to the old conventional idea. How many hours I had moved alongside horses to see for myself exactly how a horse puts his feet down in the walk! I had told many people to go down on all fours themselves and walk, noting the sequence with their own hands and knees, which was sure to be correct instinctively. At this same dinner Lady Lothian told me she had followed my advice, and the idea of that sedate _grande dame_, with grey hair combed under a white lace cap, pacing round her room on all fours I thought delightful. Since those days I have been vindicated by the snap-shot.

I find many Diary pages chiefly devoted to preparations for "Quatre Bras" and the doing of several pen-and-ink reminiscences of what I had seen at Woolwich and Aldershot, and exhibited at the "Dudley." Some were bought by the picture dealer Gambart, and some by Agnew. One of those pen-and-inks was the "Halt!"--those Scots Greys I only half saw through the dust storm at Aldershot pulling up in the midst of a tremendous charge, very close to us. Gambart had come to my studio to see if he could get anything, and when I told him of this "Halt!" which I had just sent to the "Dudley," he there and then wrote me a cheque for it, without seeing it. When he went there to claim it, behold! it had already been sold, before the opening. He was very angry, and threatened law against the "Dudley" for what he called "skimming" the show before the public got a chance. But the possessor was, like Mr. Galloway, a _Maanchester maan_, and these are very firm on what they call "our rights." It was no use. I had to make Gambart a compensation drawing.

This introduces Mr. Whitehead, for whom I was to paint "Balaclava." He had the "Halt!" tight.

On Corpus Christi Day that year Alice and I, having received our invitations from the Bishop of Salford, of happy pilgrimage memory, to join in the services and procession in honour of the Blessed Sacrament at the Missionary College, Mill Hill, we went thither that glorious midsummer day. At page 127 of the Diary I have put down certain sentiments about the practice of the Catholic faith in England, and I express a longing to see the Host carried through English fields. I little thought in one year to see my hope realised; yet so it was at Mill Hill. After vespers in the little church, the procession was formed, and I shall long remember the choristers, in their purple ca.s.socks, pa.s.sing along a field of golden b.u.t.tercups and the white and gold banners at the head of the procession floating out against a typical English sky as their bearers pa.s.sed over a little hillock which commands a lovely view of the rich landscape. The bishop bore the Host, and six favoured men held the canopy. Franciscan nuns in the procession sang the hymns.

The early days of that July had their pleasant festivities, such as a dinner, with Alice, at Lady Londonderry's (she who was our mother's G.o.dmother on the occasion of her reception into the Catholic Church) and the Academy _soiree_, where Mrs. Tait invited me and Dr. Pollard to a large garden party at Lambeth Palace. There I note: "The Royalties were in full force, the _Waleses_, as I have heard the Prince and Princess called, and many others. It was amusing and very pleasant in the gardens, though provokingly windy. I had a curiously uncomfortable and oppressed feeling, though, in that headquarters of the--what shall I call it?--Opposition? The Archbishop and Mrs. Archbishop, particularly Mrs., rather appalled me. But dear Dr. Pollard, that stout Protestant, must have been very gratified."

On July 4th Colonel Browne, C.B., R.E., who took the keenest interest in my "Quatre Bras," and did all in his power to help me with the military part of it, had a day at Chatham for me. He, Mrs. B. and daughters called for me in the morning, and we set forth for Chatham, where some 300 men of the Royal Engineers were awaiting us on the "Lines." Colonel Browne had ordered them beforehand, and had them in full dress, with knapsacks, as I desired.

They first formed the old-fashioned four-deep square for me, and not only that, but the beautiful parade dressing was broken and _accidente_ by my directions, so as to have a little more the appearance of the real thing. They fired in sections, too, as I wished, but, unfortunately, the wind was so strong that the smoke was whisked away in a twinkling, and what I chiefly wished to study was un.o.btainable, _i.e._, ma.s.ses of men seen through smoke. After they had fired away all their ammunition, the whole body of men were drawn up in line, and, the rear rank having been distanced from the front rank, I, attended by Colonel Browne and a sergeant, walked down them both, slowly, picking out here and there a man I thought would do for a "Quatre Bras" model (beardless), and the sergeant took down the name of each man as I pointed him out very un.o.btrusively, Colonel Browne promising to have these men up at Brompton, quartered there for the time I wanted them. So I write: "I shall not want for soldierly faces, what with those sappers and the Scots Fusilier Guards, of whom I am sure I can have the pick, through Colonel Hepburn's courtesy. After this interesting 'choosing a model'

was ended, we all repaired to Colonel Galway's quarters, where we lunched. After that I went to the guard-room to see the men I had chosen in the morning, so as to write down their personal descriptions in my book. Each man was marched in by the sergeant and stood at attention with every vestige of expression discharged from his countenance whilst I wrote down his personal peculiarities. I had chosen eight out of the 300 in the morning, but only five were brought now by the sergeant, as I had managed to pitch upon three bad characters out of the eight, and these could not be sent me. We spent the rest of the day very pleasantly listening to the band, going over the museum, etc. I ought to see as much of military life as possible, and I must go down to Aldershot as often as I can.

"_July 16th._--Mamma and I went to Henley-on-Thames in search of a rye field for my 'Quatre Bras.' Eagerly I looked at the harvest fields as we sped to our goal to see how advanced they were. We had a great difficulty in finding any rye at Henley, it having all been cut, except a little patch which we at length discovered by the direction of a farmer. I bought a piece of it, and then immediately trampled it down with the aid of a lot of children. Mamma and I then went to work, but, oh! horror, my oil brushes were missing. I had left them in the chaise, which had returned to Henley. So Mamma went frantically to work with two slimy water-colour brushes to get down tints whilst I drew down forms in pencil. We laughed a good deal and worked on into the darkness, two regular 'Pre-Raphaelite Brethren,' to all appearances, bending over a patch of trampled rye."

I seem to have felt to the utmost the exhilaration produced by the following episode. Let the young Diary speak: "The grand and glorious Lord Mayor's banquet to the stars of literature and art came off to-day, July 21st, and it was to me such a delightful thing that I felt all the time in a pleasant sort of dream. I was mentioned in two speeches, Lord Houghton's ('Monckton Milnes') and Sir Francis Grant's, P.R.A. As the President spoke of me, he said his eye rested with pleasure on me at that moment! Papa came with me. Above all the display of civic splendour one felt the dominant spirit of hospitality in that ever-to-me-delightful Mansion House. It was a unique thing because such aristocrats as were there were those of merit and genius. The few lords were only there because they represented literature, being authors.

Patti was there. She wished to have a talk with me, and went through little Italian dramatic compliments, like Neilson. Old Cruikshank was a strange-looking old man, a wonder to me as the ill.u.s.trator of 'Oliver Twist' and others of d.i.c.kens's works--a unique genius. He said many nice things about me to Papa. I wished the evening could have lasted a week."

The next entries are connected with the "Quatre Bras" cartoon: "Dreadful misgivings about a vital point. I have made my front rank men sitting on their heels in the kneeling position. Not so the drill book. After my model went, most luckily came Colonel Browne. Shakes his head at the att.i.tudes. Will telegraph to Chatham about the heel and let me know in the morning.

"_July 23rd._--Colonel Browne came, and with him a smart sergeant-major, instructor of musketry. Alas! this man and telegram from Chatham dead against me. Sergeant says the men at Chatham must have been sitting on their heels to rest and steady themselves. He showed me the exact position when at the 'ready' to receive cavalry. To my delight I may have him to-morrow as a model, but it is no end of a bore, this wasted time."

"_July 24th._--The musketry instructor, contrary to my sad expectations, was by no means the automaton one expects a soldier to be, but a thoroughly intelligent model, and his att.i.tudes combined perfect drill-book correctness with great life and action. He was splendid. I can feel certain of everything being right in the att.i.tudes, and will have no misgivings. It is extraordinary what a well-studied position that kneeling to resist cavalry is. I dread to think what blunders I might have committed. No civilian would have detected them, but the military would have been down upon me. I feel, of course, rather fettered at having to observe rules so strict and imperative concerning the poses of my figures, which, I hope, will have much action. I have to combine the drill book and the fierce fray! I told an artist the other day, very seriously, that I wished to show what an English square looks like viewed quite close at the end of two hours' action, when about to receive a last charge. A cool speech, seeing I have never seen the thing! And yet I seem to have seen it--the hot, blackened faces, the set teeth or gasping mouths, the bloodshot eyes and the mocking laughter, the stern, cool, calculating look here and there; the unimpressionable, dogged stare! Oh! that I could put on canvas what I have in my mind!

"_July 25th._--A glorious day at Chatham, where again the Engineers were put through field exercises, and I studied them with all my faculties. I got splendid hints to-day. Went with Colonel Browne and Papa.

"_July 28th._--My dear musketry instructor for a few more att.i.tudes. He has put me through the process of loading the 'Brown Bess'--a flint-lock--so that I shall have my soldiers handling their arms properly. Galloway has sold the copyright of this picture to Messrs.

d.i.c.kenson for 2,000! They must have faith in my doing it well."

On August 11th I see I took a much-needed holiday at home, at Ventnor; and, as I say, "gave myself up to fresh air, exercise, a little out-of-door painting, and Napier's 'Peninsular War,' in six volumes."

Shortly before I left for home I received from Queen Victoria a very splendid bracelet set with pearls and a large emerald. My mother and good friend Dr. Pollard were with me in the studio when the messenger brought it, and we formed a jubilant trio.

It was pleasant to be amongst my old Ventnor friends who had known me since I was little more than a child. But on September 10th I had to bid them and the old place goodbye, and on September 11th I re-entered my beloved studio.

"_September 12th._--An eventful day, for my 'Quatre Bras' canvas was tackled. The sergeant-major and Colonel Browne arrived. The latter, good man, has had the whole Waterloo uniform made for me at the Government clothing factory at Pimlico. It has been made to fit the sergeant-major, who put on the whole thing for me to see. We had a dress rehearsal, and very delighted I was. They have even had the coat dyed the old 'brick-dust' red and made of the baize cloth of those days! Times are changed for me. It will be my fault if the picture is a fiasco."

During the painting of "Quatre Bras" I was elected a member of the Royal Inst.i.tute of Painters in Water Colour, and I contributed to the Winter Exhibition that large sketch of a sowar of the 10th Bengal Lancers which I called "Missed!" and which the _Graphic_ bought and published in colours. This reproduction sold to such an extent that the _Graphic_ must have been pleased! The sowar at "tent-pegging" has missed his peg and pulls at his horse at full gallop. I had never seen tent-pegging at that time, but I did this from description, by an Anglo-Indian officer of the 10th, who put the thing vividly before me. How many, many tent-peggings I have seen since, and what a number of subjects they have given me for my brush and pencil! Those captivating and pictorial movements of men and horses are inexhaustible in their variety.

I had more models sent to me than I could put into the big picture--Guardsmen, Engineers and Policemen--the latter being useful as, in those days, the police did not wear the moustache, and I had difficulty in finding heads suitable for the Waterloo time. Not a head in the picture is repeated. I had a welcome opportunity of showing varieties of types such as gave me so much pleasure in the old Florentine days when I enjoyed the Andrea del Sartos, Masaccios, Francia Bigios, and other works so full of characteristic heads.

On November 7th my sister and I went for a weekend to Birmingham, where the people who had bought "The Roll Call" copyright were exhibiting that picture. They particularly wished me to go. We were very agreeably entertained at Birmingham, where I was curious to meet the buyer of my first picture sold, that "Morra" which I painted in Rome. Unfortunately I inquired everywhere for "Mr. Gla.s.s," and had to leave Birmingham without seeing him and the early work. No one had heard of him! His name was Chance, the great Birmingham _gla.s.s_ manufacturer.

"_November 27th._--In the morning off with Dr. Pollard to Sanger's Circus, where arrangements had been made for me to see two horses go through their performances of lying down, floundering on the ground, and rearing for my 'Quatre Bras' foreground horses. It was a funny experience behind the scenes, and I sketched as I followed the horses in their movements over the arena with many members of the troupe looking on, the young ladies with their hair in curl-papers against the evening's performance. I am now ripe to go to Paris."

So to Paris I went, with my father. We were guests of my father's old friends, Mr. and Mrs. Talmadge, Boulevard Haussmann, and a complete change of scene it was. It gave my work the desired fillip and the fresh impulse of emulation, for we visited the best studios, where I met my most admired French painters. The Paris Diary says:

"_December 3rd._--Our first lion was Bonnat in his studio. A little man, strong and wiry; I didn't care for his pictures. His colouring is dreadful. What good light those Parisians get while we are muddling in our smoky art centre. We next went to Gerome, and it was an epoch in my life when I saw him. He was at work but did not mind being interrupted.

He is a much smaller man than I expected, with wide open, quick black eyes, yet with deep lids, the eyes opening wide only when he talks. He talked a great deal and knew me by name and '_l'Appel,_' which he politely said he heard was '_digne_' of the celebrity it had gained. We went to see an exhibition of horrors--Carolus Duran's productions, now on view at the _Cercle Artistique_. The talk is all about this man, just now the vogue. He ill.u.s.trates a very disagreeable present phase of French Art. At Goupil's we saw De Neuville's 'Combat on the Roof of a House,' and I feasted my eyes on some pickings from the most celebrated artists of the Continent. I am having a great treat and a great lesson.

"_December 4th._--Had a _supposed_ great opportunity in being invited to join a party of very _mondaines Parisiennes_ to go over the Grand Opera, which is just being finished. Oh, the chatter of those women in the carriage going there! They vied with each other in frivolous outpourings which continued all the time we explored that dreadful building. It is a pile of ostentation which oppressed me by the extravagant display of gilding, marbles and bronze, and silver, and mosaic, and brocade, heaped up over each other in a gorged kind of way. How truly weary I felt; and the bedizened dressing-rooms of the actresses and _danseuses_ were the last straw. Ugh! and all really tasteless."

However, I recovered from the Grand Opera, and really enjoyed the lively dinners where conversation was not limited to couples, but flowed with great _esprit_ across the table and round and round. Still, in time, my sleep suffered, for I seemed to hear those voices in the night. How graceful were the French equivalents to the compliments I received in London. They thought I would like to know that the fame of "_l'Appel_"

had reached Paris, and so I did.