A Year's Journey through France and Part of Spain Volume II Part 3

The Latin inscription under the bull's head, is very well cut, and very legible, by which it appears, that by the express order of CYBELE, the reputed mother of the G.o.ds, for the honour and health of the Emperor _Antoninus Pius_, father of his country, and for the preservation of his children, children, _Lucius aemilius Carpus_[B] received the horns of the bull, by the ministration of _Quintus Samius Secundus_, transported them to the Vatican, and consecrated, at his own expence, this altar and the head of the bull[C]; but I will send the inscription, and a model[D] of the altar, as soon as I can have it made, as I find here a very ingenious sculptor and modeller; who, to my great serprize, says no one has. .h.i.therto been taken from it. And here let me observe, lest I forget it, to say, that _Augustus_ lived three years in this city.

[B] _Lucius aemilius Carpus_ was a Priest, and a man of great riches: he was of the quality of _Sacrovir_, and probably one of the six Priests of the temple of Angustus.--_s.e.xtumvir Augustalii_.

[C] Several inscriptions of this kind have been found both in Italy and Spain, but by far the greater number among the Gauls; and as the sacrifices to the G.o.ddess Cybele were some of the least ancient of the Pagan rites, so they were the last which were suppressed on the establishment of Christianity. Since we find one of the Taurobolian inscriptions, with so recent a date as the time of the Emperor Valentinian the third. The silence of the Heathen writers on this head is very wonderful; for the only one who makes any mention of them is Julius Firmicus Maternus, in his dissertation on the errors of the Pagan religion; as Dalenius, in his elaborate account of the Taurobolium, has remarked.

The ceremony of the consecration of the High Priest of Cybele, which many learned men have mistaken for the consecration of the Roman Pontifex Maximus; which dignity, from the very earliest infancy of the Roman Empire, was always annexed to that of the Emperor himself.

The Priests who had the direction of the Taurobola, wore the same vestments without washing out the b.l.o.o.d.y stains, as long as they would hold together.

By these rites and baptisms by blood, they thought themselves, as it were re-born to a life eternal. s.e.xtilius Agefilaus aedesius says, that he was born a-new, to life eternal, by means of the Taurobolium and Criobolium.

Nor were the priests alone initiated in this manner, but also others, who were not of that order; in particular cases the regenerations were only promised for twenty years.

Besides the Taurobolia and Criobolia, which were erected at the expence of whole cities and provinces, there were others also, which were founded by the bounty of private people. We often meet with the names of magistrates and priests of other G.o.ds, who were admitted into these mysteries, and who erected Taurobolia as offerings for the safety of the Emperor, or their own. The rites of the Taurobolia lasted sometimes many days.

The inscription, on the Taurobolium, which is on the same side with the head of the bull, we have endeavoured to explain by filling up the abbreviations which are met with in the Roman character.

TAUROBOLIO MATRIS DEUM MAGNae IDaeae QUOD FACTUM EST EX IMPERIO MATRIS IDaeae DEUM PRO SALUTE IMPERATORIS CaeSARIS t.i.tI aeLII ADRIANI ANTONINI AUGUSTI PII PATRIS PATRIae LIBERORUMQUE EJUS ET STATUS COLONIae LUGDUNENSIS LUCIUS aeMILIUS CARPUS s.e.xTUMVIR AUGUSTALIS ITEM DENDROPHORUS VIRES EXCEPIT ET A VATICANO TRANSTULIT ARAM ET BUCRANIUM SUO IMPENDIO CONSECRAVIT SACERDOTE QUINTO SAMMIO SECUNDO AB QUINDECEMVIRIS OCCABO ET CORONA EXORNATO CUI SANCTISSIMUS ORDO LUGDUNENSIS PERPETUITATEM SACERDOTIS DECREVIT APPIO ANNIA ATILO BRADUA t.i.tO CLODIO VIBIO VARO CONSULIBUS LOCUS DATUS DICRETO DECURIONUM.

[D] _The Model is now in the possession of the ingenious_ Dr.

HARRINGTON _at Bath_.

The _Taurobolium_ was one of the great mysteries, you know, of the Roman religion, in the observance of which, I think, they dug a large hole in the earth, and covered it with planks, laid at certain distances, so as to give light into the subterranean temple. The person who was to receive the _Taurobolio_ then descended into the theatre, and received on his head and whole body, the smoaking hot blood of the bull, which was there sacrificed for that purpose. If a single bull was only sacrificed, I think they call it a simple _Taurabolio_, if a ram was added to it, as was sometimes done, it was then called a _Torobolia_, and _Criobolio_; sometimes too, I believe a goat was also slain.

After all the blood of the victim animals was discharged, the Priests and Cybils retired beneath the theatre, and he who had received the b.l.o.o.d.y sacrifice, came forth and exposed himself, besmeared with blood, to the people, who all prostrated themselves before him, with reverential awe, as one who was thereby particularly sanctified, and whose person ought to be regarded with the highest veneration, and looked upon with holy horror; nor did this sanctification, I think, end with the ceremony, but rendered the person of the sanctified holy for twenty years. An inscription cited by _Gruter_, seems to confirm this matter, who, after speaking of one _Nepius Egnatius Faventinus_, who lived in the year of Christ 176, says,

_"Percepto Taurobolio Criobolioque feliciter,_"

Concludes with these words,

_"Vota Faventinus bis deni suscipit orbis, Ut mactet repetens aurata fronte bicornes._"

The _bis denus...o...b..s_ seems to imply, the s.p.a.ce of twice ten years.

And here I cannot help making a little comparison between the honours paid by the Roman citizens to their Emperors, and those of the present times to the Princes of the Blood Royal. You must know that the present King's brother, came to _Lyons_ in the year 1775, and thus it is recorded in letters of gold upon their quay:

LOUIS XVI. REGNANT.

EN MEMOIRE DE L'HEUREUX JOUR CINQ.

SEPTEMBRE M,DCC,LXXV.

OU MONSIEUR FRERE DU ROI ET MADAME SONT ARRIVES EN CETTE VILLE CE QUAI DE L'AGREMENT DU PRINCE ET PAR ORDONNANCE DU CONSULAT DU DOUZE DU MEME MOIS A ETE NOMME A PERPETUITE QUAI MONSIEUR.

If the _Bourgeoise_ of _Lyons_, however, are not men of genius, they are ingenious men, and they have a most delightful country to dwell in. I think I may say, that from the high hills which hang about this city, and taking in the rivers, fertile vales, rude rocks, vine-yards, and country seats, far and near, that _Lyons_ and its environs, afford a greater variety of natural and artificial beauties, than any spot in Europe. It is, however, by no means a place for the winter residence of a stranger. Most of the natives advanced in years, were carried off last winter. The surly winds which come down the Rhone, with impetuous blasts, are very disagreeable and dangerous. I found the cold intolerable in the beginning of May, out of the sunshine, and the sun intolerable in it. In England I never wore but one under waistcoat; in Spain, and in the south of France, I found two necessary. The Spaniards wear long cloaks, and we laugh at them; but the laugh would come more properly from them. There is in those climates a _vifness_ in the air that penetrates through and through; and I am sure that such who travel to the southward for the recovery of their health, ought to be ten times more upon their guard, to be well secured against the keen blasts the south of France, than even against an easterly wind in England.

The disorder which carried off so many last winter at _Lyons_, was called the Gripe. In a large hotel only one person escaped it, an English Lady. They called it the _Gripe_, from the fast hold it took of the person it seized; nor did it let them go till April.

On my way here, I found it sometimes extremely hot; it is now the first of May, and I am shaking by the side of a good fire, and have had one constantly every day for this fortnight.

LETTER XLIII.

LYONS.

The _Lyonoise_ think their town was particularly honoured by the _Taurobolium_; but it was a common practice to offer that sacrifice not only for the Emperor's health, but for the preservation of a city. There are two of these altars in the town of _Letoure_; one consecrated for the preservation of the Emperor _Gordian_, on which is the following inscription:

PRO SALVTE IMP. ANTONINI GORDIANO PII FEL.

AVG. TOTIVSQVE DOMVS DIVINae PROQVE STATV CIVIT.

LACTOR TOROPOLIVM FECIT ORDO LACTOR D.N. GORDIANO II ET POMPLIANO COS VI ID DEC CVRANTIS M EROTIO ET FESTO CANINIS SACERD.

And in a little village near _Ma.r.s.eilles_, called _Pennes_, there is a stone, on which is engraven,

MATRI DEVM MAGNae IDEae

And on another, in the same town,

MATRI DEVM TAVROPOLIVM.

I must not omit to give you a copy of a singular inscription on the tomb of a mint-master which was found in _Lyons_, and is preserved entire:

n.o.bILIS TIB. CaeSARIUS AVG. SER aeQ. MONET HIC AD QVI LOCIT JVLIA ADEPTA CONJUNX ET PERPETUA FILIA D.S.D.

The most ancient money which has been found in and about this city, is the little coin of _Mark Antony_; on one side of which is represented the Triumvirate; on the other, a Lion, with the word _Lugudani_ under it; on each side of the Lion are the letters A and XL. The antiquarians here think those letters marked the value of the piece, and that it was about forty _sous_; but is it not more probable, that this was only the mint-master's touch?

Nothing can be a stronger proof of the importance of this city in the time of the Romans, than the immense expence they were at in erecting such a number of grand aquaeducts, one of which was eighteen leagues in length; many parts of them are still visible; and it appears that they spent for the reparation of them at _one_ time, near one thousand talents; and here it was that the four grand Roman highways divided; one of which went directly to the sea, and another to the _Pyrenees_.

_Agrippa_, who was the constructor of most of these n.o.ble monuments of Roman grandeur, would not permit the _Lyonoise_ to erect any monument among them to his memory; and yet, his memory is, in a very particular manner, preserved to this day in the very heart of the city, for in the front of a house on the quay _de Villeroy_, is a medallion of baked earth, which, I think, perfectly resembles him; sure I am it is an unquestionable antique; it is a little disfigured indeed, and disgraced by his name being written upon it in modern characters. But there is another monument of _Agrippa_ here; it is part of the epitaph of an officer or soldier of the third cohort, whose duty it was to take an account of the expence of each day for the subsistence of the troops employed to work on the high-ways, and this officer was called _A.

Rationibus Agrippae_.

There are an infinite number of Roman inscriptions preserved at _Lyons_, among which is the following singular one:

DIIS INIQVIS QUI ANIMVLAM TVAM RAPVERVNT.

I have already told you of a modern monument erected by the _Lyonoise_, and now, with grief and concern, I must tell you of an ancient one which they have demolished! it was a most beautiful structure, called the tomb of the Two Lovers; that, however, was a mistake; it was the tomb of a brother and sister named _Amandas_, or _Amans_, for near where it stood was lately found the following monumental inscription:

D M

ET MEMORIAE aeTERNae OLIae TRIBVTae FEMINae SANCTISSIME ARVESCIVS AMANDVS FRATER SORORI KARISSMae SIBIQVE AMANTISSIMae P.C. ET SVB OSCIA DEDICAVIT.

I have seen a beautiful drawing of this fine monument, which stood near the high road, a little without the town; the barbarian _Bourgeoises_ threw it down about seventy years ago, to search for treasure.

But enough of antiquities; and therefore I will tell you truly my sentiments with respect to the south of France, which is, that _Lyons_ is quite southward enough for an Englishman, who will, if he goes farther, have many wants which cannot be supplied. After quitting _Lyons_, he will find neither good b.u.t.ter, milk, or cream. At _Lyons_, every thing, which man can wish for, is in perfection; it is indeed a rich, n.o.ble, and plentiful town, abounding with every thing that is good, and more _finery_ than even in _Paris_ itself. They have a good theatre, and some tolerable actors; among whom is the handsomest Frenchman I ever beheld, and, a little stiffness excepted, a good actor.

Any young gentleman traveller, particularly _of the English nation_, who is desirous of _replenishing his purse_, cannot, even in _Paris_, find more convenient occasions to throw himself in _fortune's way_, than at the city of _Lyons_.

An English Lady, and two or three gentlemen, have lately been so _fortunate there_, as to find lodgings _at a great Hotel_, gratis; and I desire you will particularly _recommend a long stay at_ Lyons _to my Oxonian friend_; where he may _see the world_ without looking out at a window.