A Week's Tramp in Dickens-Land Part 17

THE town of Strood,--the Roman _Strata_,--which stands on the left bank of the river Medway, has, like the city of Rochester, its interesting historical a.s.sociations. Its Church, dedicated to St. Nicholas, stands high on the north side of the London road leading to Gad's Hill, and has a bra.s.s of T. Glover and his three wives. At one time there was a hospital for travellers, founded by Bishop Glanville (_temp._ Richard I.), near the Church. The most interesting remains are, however, those of the Temple Farm, distant about half a mile south, formerly (_temp._ Henry II.) the mansion of the Knights Templars of the Teutonic order, to whom it, together with the lands thereto belonging, was given by that monarch. The gift was confirmed by King John and by Henry III. (1227); but the unfortunate brethren of the order did not retain possession more than a century, for in the reign of Edward II. they were dispossessed of their lands and goods, under pretence of their leading a vicious course of life, but in reality to satisfy the avarice of their dispossessors.

The present building dates from about James I., has one fine room overlooking the river, and underneath is a s.p.a.cious vault called by Grose the "Preceptory," excavated out of the chalk, and having fine groined stone arches and aisles--the walls are of very great thickness.

Near Frindsbury Church--in which are three most interesting wall-paintings of St. William the Baker of Perth, St. Lawrence, and another figure, all three discovered on the jambs of the Norman windows only a few years ago--stands the Quarry House, a handsome old red-brick mansion, "described as more Jacobean than Elizabethan," built in the form of a capital E, each storey slightly receding behind the front level of that beneath it, the top tapering into pretty gables, the effect being enhanced by heavy b.u.t.tresses.

There is a dreadful legend of the ancient people of Strood common to several other parts of the kingdom, _e.g._ Auster in Dorsetshire, which the quaint and diligent Lambarde, quoting from Polydore Virgil, evidently regarded as serious, and takes immense pains to confute! It relates to St. Thomas a Becket and his contention with King Henry II., whereby he began to be looked upon as the King's enemy, and as such began to be "so commonly neglected, contemned, and hated:--

"That when as it happened him upon a time to come to _Stroude_, the Inhabitants thereabouts (being desirous to dispite that good Father) sticked not to cut the tail from the horse on which he road, binding themselves thereby with a perpetuall reproach: for afterward (by the will of G.o.d) it so happened, that every one which came of that kinred of men which plaied that naughty prank, were borne with tails, even as brute beasts be."

[Ill.u.s.tration: Temple Farm Strood]

Surely had the credulous historian lived in Darwinian times, he might have recorded this as a splendid instance of "degeneration"!

[Ill.u.s.tration: At Temple Farm Strood]

In a lecture delivered here some years ago, the Rev. Canon Scott Robertson, Editor of _Archaeologia Cantiana_, gave a graphic picture of "Strood in the Olden Times." To this we are much indebted for the opportunity of giving an abstract of several of the most interesting details.

In the thirteenth century Strood and Rochester were the scene of a severe struggle between Simon de Montfort, Earl of Leicester, the leader of the Barons in their war against Henry III. to resist the aggressive encroachments of the King on the liberties of the subject, and the supporters of that monarch.

[Ill.u.s.tration: Crypt Temple Farm]

Simon de Montfort, who was a Strood landowner, and possessed of other large properties in Kent, took the lead, followed by several other n.o.bles, in the siege of Rochester. Their first obstacle was the fortified gate-house at the Strood end of Rochester Bridge, and for some time their efforts were in vain, till at length, by means of small ships filled with inflammable matter, set on fire and driven towards the centre of the wooden bridge, causing "actual or expected ignition of the timbers," the King's soldiers were dismayed and retreated. The Earl of Gloucester simultaneously reached the south end of the city, and the Barons took possession thereof, sacking the town, monastery, and Cathedral Church. The garrison of the Castle shut themselves up in the strong Norman Keep, and held it till relieved by Prince Edward, the King's son.

The Castle was subsequently taken by Simon de Montfort after the Battle of Lewes (1264), where Henry III. was taken prisoner and brought to Rochester, and a Proclamation was issued transferring the custody of the Royal Castle to the Barons.

At the Battle of Evesham (1265) Simon de Montfort was slain; and the King, on becoming master of the situation, imposed a fine, equivalent to about 1,500 of our money, on Strood, because it was the headquarters of Simon during his a.s.sault on Rochester. The fine caused much ill-feeling between the two towns, which lasted until the reign of Edward I. Such was Strood in the olden times.

Long years have since pa.s.sed, and the amenities of an industrial age have succeeded to these turmoils. The town of Strood appears to be flourishing, and now possesses large engineering works, cement manufactories, flour mills, and other extensive industries.

Allusion has been previously made to a very entertaining _brochure_, ent.i.tled _Charles d.i.c.kens and Rochester_, by Mr. Robert Langton, F. R.

Hist. Soc. of Manchester (himself, we believe, a Rochester man). In it there is scarcely any reference to Strood, although the sister-town, Chatham, is freely mentioned. Our enquiries at Strood, on the Tuesday and subsequently, resulted in the discovery of many most interesting memorials of Charles d.i.c.kens in connection with that town, enough almost to fill a small volume. There was a general impression that d.i.c.kens had no great liking for Strood, and yet it was a doctor from that town who was one of his most intimate friends, and who attended him in his last illness; it was a builder in Strood who executed most of the alterations and repairs at Gad's Hill Place; it was a Strood contractor who gave him the souvenir of old Rochester Bridge; it was at Strood that an eminent local scientist lived, who was incidentally, but very importantly, a.s.sociated with him in the movement connected with the Guild of Literature and Art; and it was at a quiet roadside inn at Strood that he sometimes called to refresh himself after one of those long walks, alone or with friends, for which he was famous.

[Ill.u.s.tration: The "Crispin & Crispia.n.u.s", Strood]

Let us reverse the order of the above, and give a recollection from the last-mentioned. The "Crispin and Crispia.n.u.s" is a very old-fashioned inn, which stands on the north side of the London road just out of Strood, and was, as we were informed, erected some centuries ago. It is a long building, of brick below, with an overhanging upper floor and weather-boarded front, surmounted by a single dormer window. The sanded floor of the common parlour is, as the saying goes, "as clean as a new pin." Round the room is a settle terminating with arms at each side of the door, which is opposite the fireplace. Mrs. Masters, the cheerful and obliging landlady, who has lived here thirty years, describes d.i.c.kens to us (as we sit in the seat he used now and then to occupy), when on one of his walks, as habited in low shoes not over-well mended, loose large check-patterned trousers that sometimes got entangled in the shoes when walking, a brown coat thrown open, sometimes without waistcoat, a belt instead of braces, a necktie which now and then got round towards his ear, and a large-brimmed felt hat, similar to an American's, set well at the back of his head. In his hand he carried by the middle an umbrella, which he was in the habit of constantly swinging, and if he had dogs (a not unfrequent occurrence), he had a small whip as well. He walked in the middle of the road at a rapid pace, upright, but with his eyes cast down as if in deep thought. When he called at the Crispin for refreshment, usually a gla.s.s of ale (mild sixpenny--bitter ale was not drawn in those days), or a little cold brandy and water, he walked straight in, and sat down at the corner of the settle on the right-hand side where the arm is, opposite the fire-place; he rarely spoke to any one, but looked round as though taking in everything at a glance. (In _David Copperfield_ he says, "I looked at nothing, that I know of, but I saw everything.") Once he and a friend were sheltering there during a thunderstorm (by a coincidence, a storm occurs at the time we are here), and while d.i.c.kens stood looking out of the window he saw opposite a poor woman with a baby, who appeared very worn, wet, and travel-stained. She too was sheltering from the rain.

"Call her in here," said d.i.c.kens. Mrs. Masters obeyed.

"Now," said he, "draw her some brandy."

"How much?" she asked.

"Never mind," he answered, "draw her some."

The landlady drew her four-pennyworth, the quant.i.ty generally served.

"Now," said d.i.c.kens to the woman, "drink that up," which she did, and soon seemed refreshed. d.i.c.kens gave her a shilling, and remarked to Mrs.

Masters that "now she will go on her way rejoicing." The story is a trivial one, but the units make the aggregate, and it sufficiently indicates his kindness of heart and thoughtfulness for others.

In some of his walks d.i.c.kens was accompanied either by his sister-in-law, Miss Hogarth, or by friends who were staying at "Gad's"

(or the "Place," as it was sometimes called). Mrs. Masters, whose recollections of d.i.c.kens are very vivid, said--"Lor! we never thought much about him when he was alive; it was only when his death took place that we understood what a great man he was." Alas! it is not the first instance that "a prophet is not without honour, save in his own country, and in his own house." The news of his death was a great shock to Mrs.

Masters, who heard of it from Edward, son of Mr. W. S. Trood, the landlord of the Sir John Falstaff, as he was bearing the intelligence to Rochester within half-an-hour after the event.

In pa.s.sing we should mention, that the Crispin and Crispia.n.u.s has been immortalized in the chapter on "Tramps," in _The Uncommercial Traveller_, where, in reference to the handicrafts of certain tramps, d.i.c.kens imagines himself to be a travelling clockmaker, and after adjusting "t'ould clock" in the keeper's kitchen, "he sees to something wrong with the bell of the turret stable clock up at the Hall [Cobham Hall]. . . . Our task at length accomplished, we should be taken into an enormous servants'-hall, and there regaled with beef and bread, and powerful ale. Then, paid freely, we should be at liberty to go, and should be told by a pointing helper to keep round over yinder by the blasted ash, and so straight through the woods till we should see the town-lights right afore us. . . . So should we lie that night at the ancient sign of the Crispin and Crispia.n.u.s [at Strood], and rise early next morning to be betimes on tramp again."[14]

We are also indebted to Mrs. Masters for an introduction to our next informant, Mr. J. Couchman, master-builder and undertaker of Strood, who, though advanced in years and tried by illness, is very free and chatty; and from him and his son we obtained some interesting facts. He had worked for Charles d.i.c.kens at Gad's Hill Place, from the date of his going there ("which," says Mr. Couchman, "was on Whitsun Monday, 1856,") until the 11th June, 1870, two days after the sad occurrence "which eclipsed the gaiety of nations."

From Mr. Couchman's standpoint as a tradesman, it is interesting to record his experience of d.i.c.kens in his own words. "Mr. d.i.c.kens," he says, "was always very straightforward, honourable, and kind, and paid his bills most regularly. The first work I did for him was to make a dog-kennel; I also put up the chalet at Gad's Hill. When it was forwarded from London, which was by water, Mr. Fechter [whose name he did not at first remember] sent a Frenchman to a.s.sist in the erection.

The chalet consisted of ninety-four pieces, all fitting accurately together like a puzzle. The Frenchman did not understand it, and could not make out the fitting of the pieces. So I asked Mr. Henry [Mr. Henry Fielding d.i.c.kens, the novelist's sixth son, the present Recorder of Deal] if he understood French. He said 'Yes,' and told me the names of the different pieces, and I managed it without the Frenchman, who stayed the night, and went away next day." In conversation, we suggest that the circ.u.mstance of the chalet having been made in Switzerland may have embarra.s.sed the Frenchman, he not having been accustomed to that kind of work. In his letter to Forster of the 7th June, 1865, d.i.c.kens says:--"The chalet is going on excellently, though the ornamental part is more slowly put together than the substantial. It will really be a very pretty thing; and in the summer (supposing it not to be blown away in the spring), the upper room will make a charming study. It is much higher than we supposed."

Mr. Couchman also took down the chalet after Charles d.i.c.kens's death, and erected it at the Crystal Palace at Sydenham, where it remained for a short time, and was subsequently presented to the Earl of Darnley by several members of the d.i.c.kens family. His lordship afterwards ordered him to fit it up at Cobham Hall, where, as previously stated, it now stands. The woods of which it is constructed he believed to be Baltic oak and a kind of pine, the lighter parts being of maple or sycamore. We saw it subsequently.

Several contracts were entered into by Mr. Couchman with Charles d.i.c.kens for the extension and modification of Gad's Hill Place, notably during the year 1861. We are favoured with a sight of an original specification signed by both parties, which is as follows:--

"Specification of works proposed to be done at Gad's Hill House, Higham, for C. d.i.c.kens, Esq.

"_Bricklayer._--To take off slates and copings and heighten brick walls and chimneys, and build No. 2 new chimneys with stock and picking bricks laid in cement. No. 2 chimney bars, to cope gable ends with old stone. No. 2 hearthstones. No. 2 plain stone chimney-pieces. No. 2--2 ft. 6 in. Register stoves. To lath and plaster ceiling, side walls, and part.i.tions with lime and hair two coats, and set to slate the new roof with good countess slates and metal nails.

"_Carpenter._--To take off roof, to lay floor joist with 7 2-1/2 in. yellow battens; to fix roof, ceiling, joist and part.i.tions of good fir timber, 4 ft. 2 ft.; to use old timber that is sound and fit for use; to close board roof, lead flat and gutters; to lay 1 in. 9 in. white deal floors, to skirt rooms with 8 in. 3/4 in. deal; to fix No. 4 pairs of 1-3/4 in. sashes and frames for plate-gla.s.s as per order. _All the sashes to have weights and pulleys for opening._ To fix No.

2--6 ft. 6 in. 2 ft. 6 in. 1-1/2 in., four panel doors, and encase frames with all necessary mouldings; to fix window linings, and 1-1/2 in.

square framings and doors for No. 2 dressing-rooms; to fix No. 2, 7 in. rim locks. No. 2 box latches, sash fastenings, sash weights, to fix 4 in. O. G.

iron eaves, gutter with cistern heads, and 3 in.

iron leading pipes.

"_Plumber, Glazier, and Painter._--To take up old lead guttering, and lay new gutters and lead flats with 6lb. lead, ridge and flushings with 5lb.

lead; to paint all wood and iron-work that requires painting 4 coats in oil, the windows to be glazed with good plate gla.s.s; to paper rooms and landings when the walls are dry with paper of the value of 1_s._ 6_d._ per piece, the old lead to be the property of the plumber. _The two cisterns to be carried up and replaced on new roof, the pipes attached to them to be lengthened as required by the alterations; and a water tap to be fitted in each dressing-room._

"All old materials not used and rubbish to be carted away by the contractor. All the work to be completed in a sound and workman-like manner to the satisfaction of C. d.i.c.kens, Esq., for the sum of 241. The roof to be slated and flat covered with lead in one month from commencing the work.

The whole to be completed--paper excepted--and all rubbish cleared away by the 30th day of November, 1861.

"(Signed) J. COUCHMAN, "Builder.

"_High Street, Strood_, "_Sep. 10th, 1861._"

Then follows in d.i.c.kens's own handwriting:--

"_The above contract I accept on the stipulated conditions; the specified _time_, in common with all the other conditions, to be strictly observed._

"(Signed) CHARLES d.i.c.kENS.

"_Gad's Hill Place,_ "_Sat.u.r.day, 21st Sep., 1861._"

What is most interesting to notice in the above specification, is the careful way in which d.i.c.kens appears to have mastered all the details, and the very sensible interlineations given in italics which he made, (1) as to the sashes and weights, (2) as to the two cisterns, and especially (3) in the final memorandum as to _time_.

It is also worthy of remark, that the work _was_ completed in the specified time, the bill duly sent in, and the next day d.i.c.kens sent a cheque for the amount.

Another contract, amounting to 393, was executed by Mr. Couchman, for extensions at Gad's Hill. On its completion, Mr. d.i.c.kens paid him by two cheques. He went up to London to the Bank (Coutts's in the Strand) to cash them. The clerk just looked at the cheques, the signature apparently being very familiar to him, and then put the usual question--"How will you have it?" to which he replied, "Notes, please."

It appears that, as is frequently the case in large establishments, orders were sometimes given by the servants for work which the master knew nothing about until the bill was presented; and to prevent this, d.i.c.kens issued instructions to the tradesmen that they were not to execute any work for him without his written authority. The following is an ill.u.s.tration of this new arrangement:--