A Trip to Paris in July and August 1792 Part 3

I visited the apothecaries garden, and also two or three nursery gardens in that neighbourhood, but found nothing remarkable in them.

There are many gardens in the environs of Paris which are worthy of notice, but I was prevented from seeing them in consequence of the disturbances hereafter mentioned. In the books which describe these places, I find the village of _Montreuil-sous-le-Bois_ particularly mentioned on account of its fertility. In the _Tableau de Paris_ it is said, "Three acres of ground produce to the proprietor twenty thousand livres annually, (near 800 guineas.) The rent of an acre is six hundred livres, and the king's tax sixty (together about six and twenty guineas.) The peaches which are produced here are the finest in the world, and are sometimes sold for a crown a piece. When a prince has given a splendid entertainment, three hundred Louis d'ors worth of these fruits have been eaten." It is situated on a hill, just above _Vincennes_, about three miles from the fauxbourg _Saint Antoine_, and is likewise celebrated for its grapes, strawberries, all sorts of wall fruit, pease, and every kind of esculent vegetables. In the garden called _Mouceaux_ which belongs to the _ci-devant Duke of Orleans_; at the extremity of the _fauxbourg du Roule_ are, it is said, magnificent hot-houses, of which I have no recollection, though I was in the garden in 1776. There is a description of these gardens in print, with sixteen copper plates. In the _Luxembourg_ gardens only common annuals were growing, such as marigolds, sun-flowers, &c. probably self sown; neither were there in the _Tuileries_ gardens, which I afterwards saw, any remarkable plants.

I bought very large peaches in the markets at 30 _sous_ each, the ordinary ones were at 10 _sols_. The melons (which are brought to market in waggons, piled up like turnips in England) were all of the netted sort, and of so little flavor, that they would not be worth cultivating, were it not for the sake of cooling the mouth in hot weather; they were sold at 15 or 20 sous each. Strawberries were still plentiful (second week in August.) _Cerneaux_, which are the kernel of green walnuts, were just coming into season.

I had now no opportunity of acquiring any more knowledge of the plants in France, and shall only add, that I pa.s.sed the winter of 1783 and 1784, at _Ma.r.s.eille_ and at _Hieres_; and that besides oranges, lemons, cedras,[14] pistachios, pomegranates, and a few date palm trees, I found several species of _geranium_, myrtles, and _cactus opuntia_, (Indian fig) growing in the soil, and likewise the _mimosa farnesiana_, sweet scented sponge tree, or fragrant acacia, the flowers of which are there called _fleurs de ca.s.sier_; these flowers, together with those of the jasmine, and those which fall from the orange and lemon trees, are sold to the perfumers of _Provence_ and _Languedoc_.

[Note 14: These trees are planted as close together as possible, hardly eight feet asunder, and no room is left for any walks, so that these gardens are, properly speaking, orange orchards. The oranges were then sold at the rate of ten for a penny English.]

Among the small plants, the _arum arisarum_, (friar's cowl) and the _ruscus aculeatus_ (butcher's broom) were the most conspicuous, this latter is a pretty ever-green shrub, and the berries were there as large as those of a common _solanum pseudo capsic.u.m_, (Pliny's _amomum_, or winter cherry) and of a bright scarlet colour, issuing from the middle of the under surface of the leaves; I never saw any of these berries any where else. _Parkinson_, in his _Theater of Plants_, 1640, says, after describing three or four species of this genus, "They sca.r.s.e beare flower, much lesse fruite, in our land." Perhaps the berries might ripen in our hot-houses.

Many _arbutus_, or strawberry-trees, grow here, but they are not equal in size and beauty to many which I saw both in Portugal and in Ireland.

In 1784, _M. J. J. de St. Germain_, a nurseryman in the _Fauxbourg St.

Antoine_, published a book in 8vo of 400 pages, ent.i.tled _Manuel des Vegetaux_, or catalogue in Latin and French, of all the known plants, trees, and shrubs, in the world, arranged according to the system of _Linnaeus_; those plants which grow near Paris are particularly specified, and a very copious French index is added to the Latin one.

The author died a few years ago; the plants were sold, and the nursery ground is at present built upon.

DOGS AND CATS. TWO-HEADED BOY.

LION Dogs and Cats are common in Paris.

The lion-dog greatly resembles a lion in miniature; the hair of the fore part of its body is long, and curled, and the hinder part short; the nose is short, and the tail is long and tufted at the extremity; the smallest are little larger than guinea-pigs; these are natives of Malta, and are the most valuable; those which are produced in France are considerably larger, and the breed degenerates very soon. Their general colour is white; they are frequently called _Lexicons_, which word is derived, not from a dictionary, but from a French compound word of nearly the same sound, descriptive of one of their properties.

The lion-cat comes originally from _Angora_, in _Syria_. It is much larger than the common cat; its hair is very long, especially about the neck, where it forms a fine ruff, of a silvery whiteness and silky texture, that on the tail is three or four inches long; these cats frequently spread their tails on their backs, as squirrels do. The colour is generally white, but sometimes light brown; they do not catch mice. This beautiful species does not degenerate speedily, and it appears to thrive better in Paris than in any other part of Europe. The figures of both these animals are in _Buffon's Natural History_.

About the _Palais Royal_ persons are frequently found who offer for sale white mice in cages; these are pretty little animals, their fur is snow white, and their eyes are red and sparkling. Other persons carried for sale canary-birds, linnets, and two or three other sorts of small birds, perched on their fingers; these birds had been rendered so tame that they did not attempt to fly away.

But the greatest curiosity in Natural History which I saw there, was a male child with two heads and four arms; it was then three months old, the two faces were perfectly alike, the noses aquiline, the eyes blue, and the countenances pleasing; the two bodies were joined together at the chest, and the remainder was just like that of a common male child; one navel, one belly, one _p.e.n.i.s_ one _a.n.u.s_, and two legs. The two bodies were face to face, so that they could embrace and kiss each other; in their natural position they formed an angle of 65 degrees, like the letter Y. I remained above an hour with this child, it's mother and the nurse, and saw it suck at both b.r.e.a.s.t.s at the same time. It was tolerably strong, the skin was very soft, and almost transparent, the arms and legs were very lean, and the latter were crossed, and appeared incapable of being extended voluntarily; so that if the child should live two or three years, which I do not think probable, it is not likely it will ever be able to walk. One head would laugh while the other cried, one head would sleep whilst the other was awake; the inspiration and expiration of the breath, in each, was alternate, that is to say, one inspired while the other expired its breath. There was nothing remarkable in the mother (a peasant's wife) except her obstinacy in refusing to disenc.u.mber these two poor heads from a couple of thick quilted blue sattin caps with which they had dressed them, and which I endeavoured to convince both her and the nurse would heat the heads, so as to be the means of shortening the child's life, and consequently of curtailing the profits arising from this _unique_ exhibition.

To this description an English physician, who likewise saw it, adds, "It must have had two brains, as motion and sensation were equal, and apparently perfect, in each head and chest, and in all the four arms. It had two hearts, and two sets of lungs; it had also two pa.s.sages into the stomach, but, as was supposed, only one set of _abdominal viscera_, as the belly was not larger than that of a common child of that age usually is. The hearts and arteries beat more strongly than was consistent with a long continuance of health. The action of the arteries was plainly seen under the skin."

Mr. Buffon, in the Supplement to his Natural History, has given the figure and description of a monster something similar to this, part of which description I shall give in a note, as a parallel to that of the living child.[15]

[Note 15: "In 1701 there were born in Hungary two Girls who were joined together by the loins; they lived above twenty-one years. At seven years old they were shown almost all over Europe; at nine years of age a priest purchased them, and placed them in a convent at Petersburg, where they remained till their death, which happened in 1723. An account of them was found among the papers of the surgeon who attended the convent, and was sent to the Royal Society of London in 1757. In this account we are told, that one of these twins was called _Helen_, the other _Judith_. _Helen_ grew up and was very handy, _Judith_ was smaller and a little hump-backed. They were joined together by the reins, and in order to see each other they could turn their heads only. There was one common _a.n.u.s_, and of course there was only one common need of going to stool, but each had her separate urinary pa.s.sage, and separate wants, which occasioned quarrels, because when the weakest was obliged to evacuate, the strongest, who sometimes would not stand still, pulled her away; they perfectly agreed in every thing else, and appeared to love each other. When they were seen in front, they did not differ apparently from other women. At six years old _Judith_ lost the use of her left side by a paralytick stroke; she never was perfectly cured, and her mind remained feeble and dull; on the contrary, _Helen_ was handsome, intelligent and even witty. They had the small-pox and the measles at the same time, but all their other sicknesses indispositions happened to each separately. _Judith_ was subject to a cough and a fever, whereas _Helen_ was generally in good health. When they had almost attained the age of twenty-two _Judith_ caught a fever, fell into a lethargy and died. Poor _Helen_ was forced to follow her fate; three minutes before the death of _Judith_ she fell into an agony, and died nearly at the same time. When they were dissected it was found, that each had her own entrails perfect, and even, that each had a separate excretory conduit, which however terminated at the same _a.n.u.s_." _Linnaeus_ has likewise described this monster. Many figures of double children of different kinds may be seen in _Licetus de Monstris_, 4to. 1665; and in the _Medical Miscellanies_, which were printed in Latin at Leipzig, in several quarto volumes, in 1673.]

I went several times to the National a.s.sembly; the _Tribunes_, or _Galleries_, (of which there are three) entered warmly, by applauses and by murmurs and hisses, into the affairs which were treated of.

Letters are franked by the a.s.sembly as far as the frontiers, by being stamped with red printers ink, _a.s.s. Nationale._

About this time many hundreds of folio volumes of heraldry, and of the registers of the n.o.bility, were publicly burnt in _la Place Vendome_, after due notice had been given of the time and place by advertis.e.m.e.nts pasted against the walls. A wicked wag observed, that it was a pity all their books of divinity, and almost all those of law and physic, were not added to the pile but he comforted himself with reflecting that _ca viendra_.

All the coats of arms which formerly decorated the gates of _Hotels_ are taken away, and even seals are at present engraven with cyphers only.

_The Chevaliers de St. Louis_ still continue to wear the cross, or the ribband, at the b.u.t.ton-hole; all other orders of knighthood are abolished. No liveries are worn by servants, that badge of slavery is likewise abolished; and also all corporation companies, as well as every other monopolizing society; and there are no longer any _Royal_ tobacco nor salt shops.

I went once to the _Cafe de la Regence_,[16] with the intention of playing a game at chess, but I found the chess-men so very little different in colour, that I could not distinguish them sufficiently to be able to play. It seems it is the fashion for chess-men at present to be made of box-wood, and all nearly of the same colour. I then went to another coffee-house frequented by chess-players, and here the matter was worse; they had, in addition to the above-mentioned fashion, subst.i.tuted the _cavalier_, or _knight_, for the _fou_, or _bishop_, and the _bishop_ for the _knight_, so that I left them to fight their own battles.

[Note 16: Rousseau used to play at chess here almost every day, which attracted such crowds of people to see him, that the _Lieutenant de Police_ was obliged to place a sentinel at the door.]

Books of all sorts are printed without any _approbation_ or _privilege_.

Many are exposed on stalls, which are very improper for the public eye.

One of these was called the _Private Life of the Queen_, in two volumes, with obscene prints. The book itself is contemptible and disgusting, and might as well have been called the _Woman of Pleasure_. Of books of this sort I saw above thirty, with plates. Another was on a subject not fit even to be mentioned.

I read a small pamphlet, ent.i.tled "_le Christ-Roi_, or a Parallel of the Sufferings of Lewis XVI. &c." I can say nothing in favor of it.

I found no new deistical books, the subject has already been exhausted, and every Frenchman is a philosopher now; it may be necessary here to recollect, that there are gradations in philosophy.

Since the Revolution, monarchs and courts are not quite so respectfully mentioned in books as they were formerly. The following few examples are taken from _Mr. du Laure's_ Curiosities of Paris, in two volumes, 1791, third edition. [17] "Louis XIV. has his bust in almost every street in Paris. After the most trifling reparation of a street it was customary to place his great wig-block (_tete a perruque_) there. The saints have never obtained such multiplied statues. That bully (_Fanfaron_) as _Christina_, Queen of Sweden, used to call him, wanted to be adored even in turn-again alleys (_culs-de-Sac._") Courtiers are here termed _canaille de la cour_ (the rabble of the court;) the former aldermen of Paris (_echevins_) _machines a complimens_ (complimenting machines;) and monks _des bourreaux encapuchonnes_ (cowled executioners.)

[Note 17: The same author has likewise published, _Historical Singularities_ of Paris, in a single volume, and a Description of the Environs, in two volumes, 1790.]

All the following articles of information are taken from the same work: The colossal statue of _St. Christopher_ is no longer in the church of _Notre-Dame_; "He was, without doubt, the greatest _Saint Christopher_ in all France. This ridiculous monument of the taste and devotion of our ancestors has lately been demolished."

"The court before the porch of this church was considerably enlarged in 1748, and at the same time a fountain was destroyed, against which leaned an old statue, which had successively been judged to be that of _Esculapius_, of _Mercury_, of a Mayor, and of a Bishop of Paris, and lastly, that of J.C."

"Entering the street which leads to the _Pont-rouge_, by the cloisters of this church, the last house on the right, under the arcades, stands where the canon _Fulbert_, uncle to _Eloisa_, lived. Although it has been several times rebuilt during 600 years, there are still preserved two stone medallions, in _ba.s.so-relievo_, which are said to be the busts of _Abelard_ and _Eloisa_."

The number of inhabitants in Paris is computed at one million, one hundred and thirty thousand, (including one hundred and fifty thousand strangers) two hundred thousand of which are, through poverty, exempt from the poll-tax, and two hundred thousand others are servants.

In 1790 there were in Paris forty-eight convents of monks, containing nine hundred and nine men; the amount of their revenue was estimated at two millions, seven hundred and sixty thousand livres; five abbeys or priories, estimated at six hundred and twelve thousand livres; seventy-four convents of nuns, containing two thousand, two hundred and ninety-two women, their income two millions and twenty-eight thousand livres. When to these we add the revenue of the archbishop.r.i.c.k, and of the fifteen collegiate churches, of one million, six thousand and five hundred livres, we shall have a total of upwards of seven millions of livres for the former ecclesiastical revenue in Paris only.[18]

[Note 18: Almost 300,000 sterling, about a tenth part of the Church income of the whole kingdom. The establishment for the Royal Family, or Civil List, is said to have been forty millions of livres. Thus the Religion and the Monarch cost one hundred and ten millions of livres annually (about five millions sterling) the greater part of which sum is now appropriated to other uses. The convents are converted, or perverted, into secular useful buildings, and their inhabitants have been suffered to spend the remainder of their lives in their former idleness, or to marry and mix with society. Annuities have been granted to them from thirty-five to sixty louis per annum, according to their age.]

There are about six hundred coffee-houses in Paris.

In the saloon of the _Louvre_ every other year is an exhibition of pictures, in the months of August and September.

The Pont-neuf is one hundred toises in length and twelve in breadth.[19]

[Note 19: 1020 feet by 72. Westminster-bridge is 1220 feet long, but only 44 feet wide.]

The cupola of the _Halle au Bled_, or corn and flour market, is one hundred and twenty feet in diameter; it forms a perfect half circle, whose centre is on a level with the cornice, forty feet from the ground.

The vault or dome is composed merely of deal boards, four feet long, one foot broad and an inch thick.[20]

[Note 20: The inner diameter of the dome of St. Peter's, at Rome, 138 feet, which is the same size as that of the pantheon in Rome. St.

Paul's in London 108. The Invalids in Paris 50.]

Describing the church of _St. John of the Minstrels_, so called, because it was founded by a couple of fidlers, in 1330. _M. du Laure_ says, "Among the figures of saints with which the great door is decorated, one is distinguished who would play very well on the fiddle, if his fiddle-stick were not broken."

There is a parcel-post as well as a letter penny-post in Paris.

The salary of the executioner was eighteen thousand livres _per annum_; [21] his office was to break criminals on the wheel, and to inflict every punishment on them which they were sentenced to undergo.

[Note 21: 750 sterling; I know not the present salary.]