A Step Of Faith Part 23

The morning sky was clear and brilliant blue, and I walked on a smooth road of light-colored asphalt. I was on the "Great River Road" which, technically, was still U.S. 61 South.

Two and a half hours later I reached the tiny town of Bloomsdale, and stopped at the side of the road at the not-so-cleverly named Roadside Park. I ate an early lunch of tortillas stuffed with sliced turkey, bell peppers and hot sauce, then laid my map out over a picnic table. Twelve miles ahead was Ste. Genevieve. I packed away my food and pressed ahead, eager to reach the historic town before nightfall.Ste. Genevieve, named for the patron saint of Paris, was founded in 1735, more than a quarter-century before America declared its independence. I pa.s.sed through a neighborhood of small, nondescript houses, built close together, to the town's historical district, which was quaint and pleasing.

There were several bed and breakfasts in the center of town, but one in particular caught my eye:

The Southern Hotel

An Historic Bed & Breakfast Inn

Innkeepers Mike and Cathy Hankins

I rang the buzzer and a pleasant looking woman wearing an ap.r.o.n opened the door.

"Good evening, may I help you?"

"Do you have any vacancies?"

"Yes we do," she said, pulling the door open. "Come in and I'll show you what we have available."

I stepped inside. The foyer was wood-paneled and adorned with beautiful paintings, shadow boxes, and wall hangings, which included several patchwork quilts.

"Come into the parlor," she said.

I followed her through a set of saloon doors into the parlor and carefully set my pack down.

"We just had these doors put in," the woman said. "These front rooms were used as a saloon until prohibition time, so we thought it would be a nice nod to the history of the place."

The parlor had a two-person settee and several wingback chairs upholstered in red velvet. There was a bookcase full of old-time parlor games and a large fireplace with a walnut mantel.

"What is your name?" she asked, holding up a pen.

"Alan Christoffersen."

"Alan," she repeated. "My name is Cathy. When we're done, you can park your car on the side of the house."

"I don't have a car."

She looked at me quizzically. "Oh? How did you get here?"

"I walked."

"From where?"

I was more tired than talkative so I just said, "St. Louis."

She still looked impressed. "That's a long way. You must be tired. Let's get you a room. We have three rooms available for tonight, and they're all the same price. Would you like to see them before checking in?"

"I'm sure one of them will be fine," I said.

She nodded. "I think you'll be pleased."

I handed her my credit card and she ran it through a machine, then handed it back to me. "Let me tell you a little about the house." She pointed to a framed picture above the fireplace mantel. "That's the Valle family, the home's original owners. They had seven children and fifteen slaves."

"Slaves?"

"Yes, the home is more than two hundred years old," she said. "That nonsense was still going on. The slaves slept on the top floor. Actually, in one of the rooms we have available.

"If you'll follow me, I'll show you the dining room." She led me across the parlor to the dining area. "Breakfast is served at eight o'clock and nine o'clock. We've won awards for our food, so come prepared to eat."

"That won't be a problem," I said.

Cathy led me to the staircase and we walked all the way to the top floor. At the top of the stairs I noticed another steep stairway leading up to a hatch door in the ceiling.

"Is that the attic?"

"No, that's the belvedere," she replied. "It's a rooftop structure designed to give you a view. It comes from an Italian word meaning good view-at least that's what Mike told me. You're welcome to go up, but it's hotter than heck. This time of year we just call it the sauna."

"I'd like to see it," I said.

Cathy frowned a little. "I was afraid you would."

I followed her up the creaking stairs to the trap door, which she pushed open, and light and heat flooded down on us. She was right about the "sauna." I followed her through the hatch and climbed up into a small room, which was hot and humid enough that it was difficult to breathe. The octagon-shaped structure had windows on all eight sides giving an un.o.bstructed, 360-degree view of the city.

Cathy turned to me. She was panting a little and perspiration beaded on her face and neck. "During the Civil War, the Union Army occupied the building. This was their lookout. As you can see, they could keep an eye on the entire town from up here."

The heat prohibited us from spending much time up there, and my underarms and back were damp with sweat when I climbed back down to the cooler floor below. Cathy led me into a room near the stairway.

"This is the Quilt Room," she said. "It's one of the rooms where the slaves were kept."

"How do you know?"

"It was pretty standard to keep slaves in the attic at the time. They slept up here during the winter when heat would rise from the fireplaces, and they stayed downstairs in the cellar during the hot summers. But there's other evidence." She pointed across the room to a ball-and-claw-foot tub. "If you look under the tub, you can see the metal ring that slaves were chained to at night to keep them from escaping."

I walked over to the tub and leaned over it. "Over here?"

"You can see it better from the floor. You'll have to get down on all fours."

I got down on my knees and looked underneath. Six inches from the wall was a large, rusted metal ring secured to the floor. "They chained people to this?"

"Unfortunately."

The idea of it sickened me. I didn't want to stay in the room.

"As I said before, the original owners had fifteen slaves. Two of their slaves were a.s.signed just to chopping wood and keeping all the fireplaces going. There was also a tale that they owned a very large slave who was fathered out to other slaveholders in the area. Some said the slave was buried in the home's cellar after he died. A few years back, Mike let an archeologist dig in there for his bones, but he didn't find anything."

We walked through two other rooms. I chose the third, the "b.u.t.tons and Bows" room, which featured a shadow-box b.u.t.ton collection from 1720, a working fireplace, two tubs, and a black and white wedding photograph accompanied by the bride's actual veil. The room was wallpapered with golden fleur-de-lis over a rose-colored background. The bed was unlike any I'd seen before: polished rosewood with four posts and a canopy extending over just half the bed.

"This kind of bed's called a half tester," she said. "It was made in 1775. They're hard to find." Cathy pointed to the two bathtubs, standing side by side in the corner of the room. "Those are made of cast iron and porcelain, the combination really keeps the heat in. Whenever we have couples staying in this room, we hear that the woman gets the longer tub and the man gets stuck with the shorter one." She smiled at me. "But you're lucky-you won't have that problem."