A Journey to America in 1834 Part 3

Strolled by Broadway, examined the two churches, also the City Hall.

Attended one of the courts trying a ship insurance case; conducted like those in England excepting that there are no gowns or wigs. The Judge also in plain clothes but addressed as His Honour; the witnesses are sworn as with us, standing near the Judge and the Jury 13. Coming out of the Court it began to rain a little, afterwards a good deal of lightning with some thunder.

WEDNESDAY, JUNE 11TH.

Rose at six; found the air cooler and very refreshing. Walked down to the sh.o.r.e, saw the Philadelphia packet off. Immense quant.i.ty of wood put under the boiler. Bathed in the floating bath, not very tidy. Just in time for a most sumptuous breakfast. Sailed to Staten Island; had a most delightful walk to Factoryville; a pleasant breeze. Very large cherry trees. Found Ward in humble circ.u.mstances, a shoemaker; built a house costing 650 dollars, let the upper part for 100 dollars and occupied the base himself with a second wife, his former wife and child being dead.

Found Mr. Ba.s.snett improving. Expect to see him again in Buffalo. Called upon T. D. and found 400 dollars in 5's, 10's with particulars as to their legal tender, etc., by Mr. Bliss. Then dined and afterwards called upon Robert Wood at Franklin Square; promised to see him on my return.

Then proceeded to Dr. Griscome, 110 Henry St. but did not find him; mentioned that I purposed calling upon my return. Bought beautiful oranges at 1/2_d._, also a pine for 10_d._ Then called at the American Hotel, found Jackson who insisted on my taking a gla.s.s of wine with him.

Mr. Webster and Captain Kenney both very civil. After tea, walked up and down Broadway; into two booksellers' shops where some books were sold very low. Paid my bill and got everything nicely packed up, managed to put all into my portmanteau excepting two coats which I put into the bag.

THURSDAY, JUNE 12TH.

Got up a little before six, a fine morning. Left in the People's line of Packet at seven. Paid for breakfast ticket 50 cents, also to Princeton 150 cents. Most of the houses on Staten Island are built by fishermen who take large quant.i.ties of oysters. The gra.s.s is cut and placed upon stakes to prevent it being washed or blown away, as it cannot be carted away till frost comes.

Met with a gentleman, Lieutenant Higby, on the steamer returning from Charleston who showed me great attention, also presented me with a stick of orange wood. On leaving the steamer the road was so steep that but for an elderly lady who seemed so composed I should have been frightened. On the road, a field or two was cleared, the rest was forest, till on reaching Princeton the farms appeared larger. Here I engaged a gig for 150 cents. Curious sound occasioned by locusts, 17 years since their last visit. Saw a beautiful white cottage which proved to be the residence of our friend W. B.; found all well. W. was quite astonished to see me and threw his head upon my shoulders. Mrs. B.

greatly surprised, also Jonathan whom we found in the fields. On going to the door I saw the driver had tumbled down the bag and portmanteau, and set off without asking for anything for himself or the turnpike gate. Walked about in the garden, then took some coffee and lettuce.

Walked round the farm about 150 acres which cost him about 7 guineas an acre. The soil good and well cultivated with rye, oats, maize, and bounded on one side by a good road leading to Trenton, and the remainder by a beautiful stream; also good spring water in most of the fields. The estate is beautifully varied by gentle elevations; never troubled by mosquitoes; most of the snakes have been destroyed. They have five horses, 7 cows, 30 pigs, 100 poultry besides pigeons, etc. Very glad to find the B.'s so comfortably settled and steadily applying themselves to the improvement of the farm; very careful, exceedingly diligent, rising at four and working till eight, doing all the carpenter's work, butchering, etc. Stopt up till after eleven talking over old matters, etc.

FRIDAY, JUNE 13TH.

Slept very well till just before six. Found all busy and breakfast set out, ham, eggs and coffee. Could not get away till I promised to visit them again on my return to N.Y. Driven to Trenton. At twelve I took the steamer down the Delaware to Philadelphia. Several floats of timber on the river, 36 yards long, 6 broad and 6 planks deep. A pleasant sail and view of Philadelphia. Paid 25 cents to one of the Rail line porters.

Found Head's Hotel, Mansion House, rather less expensive than Bunker's.

After dinner set off with C. D.'s parcel to Ridings in 13 St. a long way. Rain came on, I borrowed an umbrella from an entire stranger, who waited until my return and then accompanied me to Mr. Hulme's. Mr. H.

not in, and agreed to call at nine to-morrow morning. Very good coffee that refreshed me. Went to the theatre, s.p.a.cious and handsome, with gilt pillars. Not one in the pit when I entered. The performers tolerable; the pit seats rise very much. Though twelve o'clock I found the table set out at the hotel, got a little ham and went to bed. The streets all in right lines, but many of the houses of irregular height. A great deal of marble used in the cellar steps of inferior houses. At dinner had only some boiled mutton and peas which I found very good, also a little tart and some strawberries. I think of declining to take wine and I am advised to try cyder, but find it not good, physicy. Took coffee instead of tea, and found it excellent. Two blacks employed in driving away the flies that are getting numerous. A mocking bird that sings most of the night.

SAt.u.r.dAY, JUNE 14TH.

Rose half past six. A delightful morning after the rain. Had a walk down street before breakfast.

The horses are protected from flies by netting or thongs. Called upon Mr. Hulme and met with a very gracious reception. After showing me through the lower part of the house and the curious filtering machine, also the mode of getting the water cool, he walked with me to the Mint, where I saw the bar of silver gradually lengthened out, then punched and then put into a machine to letter the edge, then placed under the die and then very quickly ejected in a complete coin. Also a curious process of extracting gold from silver; it only appeared like a dirty sort of revolving vessel, much like a milk basin and the man said its value exceeded 6000 dollars. Thence we went to a saw mill, with machines that planed and grooved the boards leaving them quite ready for laying down.

Thence to the water works where the river Schuylkill forces up its own water (rather reddish) into three large reservoirs. Then descended, found five large water wheels at work and preparations for two others.

We came back in a stage coach and were charged only 25 cents for both.

Went to enquire about the Frankford stage which leaves at nine. Went into a large Quakers' meeting house--both Pilling and John Wood in town, but could not manage to meet them. Visited the Exchange, a handsome edifice built of white marble. Another balloon in the sky.

Walked towards the shipping, found much wood used though there is much coal of a kind very black and shining like pitch, and giving out heat without blaze. The evening was truly beautiful, the sky so clear that the stars seemed nearer and the moon as if it imparted heat as well as light.

SUNDAY, JUNE 15TH.

Got up a little after seven. Breakfast at half past eight; the best bread and b.u.t.ter in the world; good fish and eggs. Two blacks driving away the flies. All rooms gloomy, the verandahs or shutters closed to keep out the heat. Called upon Mr. Hulme and walked with him and two Miss Hulmes. A beautiful chapel of white marble with a fine range of steps and columns, the inside equally neat, the pulpit in a recess, a column on each side and an inscription over "This is life eternal." Mr.

Furness preached an excellent sermon "Examine Thyself." The singing chiefly by the choir with a good organ. After service walked with Mr. H.

to a neat though rather small cemetery. Afterwards called on an interesting old Scotch bachelor who came to dine with us. We spent a pleasant afternoon, went on the railroad to see the inclined plane where an accident had recently happened; walked over a very large wooden bridge covered over and supported upon stone pillars. An interesting discussion respecting Jackson, etc. Took tea and attended the evening service; the text "What is the Almighty that we should serve Him?"

MONDAY, JUNE 16TH.

Some rain had fallen in the night that made it very pleasant. Went to see about the Frankford stage, told it would be at half past eight at the Exchange. Looked over some English papers. After waiting some time found the Frankford stage left at 2nd street above High St. Found it did not go till ten. Amused myself at the wharf watching some fishermen, some of them very successful. Coming back I saw turtles some laid on their back to keep them from running away; the snapping turtle very savage, if once it lays hold, nothing but the knife can part it.

Took the stage at ten, arrived (at Frankford) half past eleven. Went to Pilling's Works but could not find Mr. P. or learn anything about my uncle. Went to other works and set off a mile further to a cotton mill, but could not find it nor enquire of anyone. A great noise from the locusts that are still said to come only once in 17 years. Killed two to present to C. D. and Mr. B.

Returned and enquired at several stores but could hear nothing of him.

Then set off to see Mr. P. and on the way found his brother who keeps a store. On asking him he seemed to hesitate and went into the house to make further enquiry. He then told me that his uncle had been working at his brother's mill at Hulmesburgh; that he died about three weeks ago having scalded his leg, almost insensible towards the last. This Pilling it appears married a daughter of Abraham Walch. I knew him at first sight. They immediately set the table out and urged me to stop a day or two with them. On my declining he put on another coat and accompanied me on the way, when he disclosed to me the melancholy news of his uncle having cut his throat, then denying it and saying somebody else had done it.

TUESDAY, JUNE 17TH.

Asked for coffee a little earlier, promised in ten minutes; in less than five, fish (ba.s.s) and eggs, etc., ready. Walked up to the stage office and set off at eight; found it carrying the letters. Got to Hulmesburgh 1/4 before ten, paid only 25 cents for ten miles. Walked to the works immediately, found Pilling's brother, learned the following particulars.

That uncle had come from New England booking at a Croft, 18th Decr., that since he had worked very regularly not missing a day in 6 or 12 months, spent his money in drink at his lodgings, hardly ever at a public house; much respected and particularly so by P., had grown corpulent, scalded 16th Jan. and only able to work about two days since, was occupied in the dye-house and earned 67 dollars per week, half past four to half past six being a quarter of a day over. Had appeared rather depressed of late and wished to go home, still more so when he heard of my father's death. A subscription was begun among his men to pay his pa.s.sage as soon as he was fit to go; this seemed to overcome him as his memory had been failing at times. On the 14th May he eat a hearty dinner, smoked his pipe, went upstairs as if to lie down for half an hour. Came out and entered the carpenter's shop, shut the door after him and immediately came out with his throat cut; was told of it by two women who happened to be going by. He denied it and walked towards the pump, a doctor was sent for but no help could be afforded and he died in less than an hour; he seemed to repent of it. I walked to the grave, attended by one of the jurors; he said every respect had been shown by a numerous attendance of his fellow-workmen--had a good coffin.

WEDNESDAY, JUNE 18TH.

About one o'clock I heard a rumbling noise, immediately a flash of lightning; this increased so much that though the shutters were closed, and I covered in bed, I could see a blaze of light which continued some time, then louder thunder, so horrible as to throw me into a perspiration, after some time it abated a little, then returned with redoubled fury with heavy rain and I think hail for nearly an hour; it was truly terrific and I was glad to learn that I had seen nearly the worst. This was admitted by Mr. W. and also the driver of the stage who did not think he had seen it worse excepting once. Mr. Walker sent over to Hulmesburgh for one of his carriages, called with my letter to Mr.

Taylor, but did not meet him; then went to Mr. Hulme, agreed to go out together at half past three. On returning to the Hotel, met Mr. Jackson and also Captain Kenney; took a piece of beef and a gla.s.s of champagne with my old companions. Hastened to Mr. Hulme's; found him and three daughters waiting for me in a carriage, drove to the Penitentiary where vicious youths are endeavoured to be reclaimed by useful occupation, such as nails for sofas, cane-bottomed chairs and book-binding. Thence we visited the State prison; the cells constructed in the octagon form; all seen from the centre; a small yard attached to each to walk in for one hour a day; a sentinel placed serving the whole. Then we went to the Alms or Workhouse which is on a magnificent scale; thence to the Hospital, pa.s.sed over two large bridges. Returned and took tea and spent the evening at Mr. Hulme's.

THURSDAY, JUNE 19TH.

Mr. Jackson at breakfast with an old acquaintance from Sicily. Whilst he fetched me the card, I took the opportunity of desiring the old school companion to urge upon his friend more temperance. The streets cleaned by a spray current from a large leathern pipe carried along. Set off at nine for Skoolkill (Schuylkill) to visit John Wood, but found him gone from home to a farm about three miles further to which they were removing in a day or two; only saw his son about 16 years old; enquired about his sister who was very well. Proceeded on to Maryark filled with mills worked by water from the ca.n.a.l; was a desert only 16 years ago.

Called upon my return but only saw the same youth. On my way observed the college[11] building by Girard's money and on getting into the city entered two of the splendid banks, also the Mayor's Court, and heard two trials, one horse-stealing and the other a lad for stealing a biscuit-cutter; both found guilty, the latter recommended to mercy on account of ill-treatment by his mother. The Judge, Mr. Keen, very clever. Thence to the Museum to look at the Mammoth, a good collection of animals, birds, etc., also some good portraits of distinguished people, amongst them Priestley and Paine. Called upon Mr. James Taylor, invited to tea as I was going so soon and intended being with Dr.

Furness on Sunday. Thence to the great ship 74 by 20 yards and 20 yards high. Called again upon Ridings, also James Mason and then to Mr.

Taylor's and finished at the Hulmes's--12 o'clock.

FRIDAY, JUNE 20TH.

Slept very soundly, called up exactly at 5, the steamer sailed soon after six. A vast crowd of people some to N.Y. and others to Baltimore.

Took breakfast soon after seven, the steamer 50 by 19 yards. Met with Richard Crook. A very extraordinary dust over the city of Baltimore; a very great wind soon came to the steamer so that it was hardly possible to stand upon deck.

After dinner called upon a young man at Hofman's who kindly walked with me through the city. Greatly disappointed with the Cathedral, only a very plain edifice with two good pictures; charged 1/4 dollar, by a zealous old Catholic who seemed shocked by the heresy of an old man who wished to go behind the altar. Then we walked to a beautiful fine column of white marble, surmounted by a large figure of Washington. Came to the Court House, better than that at Philadelphia; thence to the Exchange.

From the column we had a very delightful view of the country all round.

Wrote to Thos. Dean, desiring a letter or newspaper to be forwarded to Washington and again to Quebeck after two or three weeks; mentioned writing home from Washington and Boston.

Bought a large pike for 18 cents. Visited the Museum, also had music and singing and a good imitation of singing birds. Went to bed soon after ten; the bread at Baltimore very good. The horses' tails not cut in this country, being so useful in driving away the flies.

SAt.u.r.dAY, JUNE 21ST.

Had a very restless night, not expecting to go to sleep and then heated and feverish, got up soon after five. This hotel six storeys high, a square of nine windows besides outbuildings, above 170 bedrooms, ours No. 76. Called with Miss Crosdale's letter to Mr. Grundy. This hotel more extensive than any. The road to Washington very hilly. Buzzards, a species of eagle soaring high in the air. Some disturbance by Indians, muskets placed in threes and fours. The soldiers and officers in curious working dress, the land generally very poor. Two other buzzards hovering over some carrion that they could smell. Arrived at Washington at two o'clock; pa.s.sed the Capitol which is a splendid building. After dinner a very heavy close shower of rain with thunder; cleared up soon and the evening proved delightful. Called upon Francis Taylor who keeps an extensive book store and has also a circulating library. He seems a little, shrewd intelligent young man about 22, has been nearly seven years from home. Speaking of this country he said how a man may get on to a certainty if he exerts himself, more a matter of chance in the old country. Gadsby's Hotel very large but not so neat as Bunker's, or Head's, particularly the former; the provisions not nearly so good.

Learned there were upwards of 250 rooms, our key being 102. Not feeling very well, partly occasioned by too much exertion in Philadelphia.

SUNDAY, JUNE 22ND.