A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels Volume Xvii Part 38

Tuesday the 10th, at four this morning made all the sail we could; steering S.E. in order to make the land, at six steer'd in E.S.E. at seven made the land; at eight saw a point of land bearing S.E. distant six leagues, which, when a-breast, seeing no land to the S. I take the point for Cape Victory, and the four islands we see I believe to be the islands of Direction, which Sir John Narborough gives an account of, excepting the distance, they exactly answer his description; therefore, by the lat.i.tude, in yesterday's observation, and by the distance we have run since, we are now at the opening of the Streights of Magellan. At ten in the morning, hard gales at N.W. steer'd S.E. the cape bearing E. distant four leagues; at noon bore E.

by N. distant six leagues; haul'd the main-sail down, and went under a fore-sail. I never in my life, in any part of the world, have seen such a sea as runs here, we expected every wave to swallow us, and the boat to founder. This sh.o.r.e is full of small islands, rocks, and breakers, so that we can't haul further to the southward, for fear of endangering the boat, we are obliged to keep her right before the sea. At five broach'd to, at which we all believ'd she would never rise again. We were surrounded with rocks, and so near that a man might toss a biscuit on 'em: We had nothing but death before our eyes, and every moment expected our fate. It blew a hurricane of wind, with thick rainy weather, that we could not see twice the boat's length; we pray'd earnestly for its clearing up, for nothing else could save us from perishing; we no sooner ask'd for light, but it was granted us from above. At the weather's clearing up, we saw the land on the north sh.o.r.e, with islands, rocks and breakers all around us; we were oblig'd to put in among 'em for shelter, finding it impossible to keep the sea, we were in with the land amongst them, and compell'd to push thro', looking death in the face, and expecting every sea to bury us; the boldest men amongst us were dismay'd, nor can we possibly give an account in what manner we have been this day deliver'd. After sailing amidst islands, rocks, and breakers, for above a league, we got safe into a good harbour, surrounded with small islands, which kept the sea off; here the water was as smooth as in a mill-pond. We call this harbour the Port of G.o.d's Mercy, esteeming our preservation this day to be a miracle. The most abandon'd among us no longer doubt of an Almighty Being, and have promis'd to reform their lives.

Wednesday the 11th, the wind much abated, with rain. This morning weigh'd, and ran farther in. In the evening we saw two Indians lying on their bellies on the top of a steep rock, just over the vessel, peeping with their heads over the hill. As soon as we discover'd them, we made motions to them to come down; they then rose up, and put on their heads white feather'd caps; we then hoisted a white sheet for an ensign: At this they made a noise, p.r.o.nouncing Orza, Orza, which we took for a signal to come ash.o.r.e. We would not suffer above two men to go ash.o.r.e, and those disarm'd, lest we should put them in fear. The Indians had nothing in their hands but a club, like our cricket-batts, with which they kill their seal. As soon as they saw the two men come ash.o.r.e they walk'd away, and when they perceiv'd our men follow'd them, and gain'd ground of them, they took to their heels, frequently looking back, crying Orza, Orza, beckoning the people to follow, which they did for a mile or two along-sh.o.r.e, out of sight of the vessel: Then the Indians fled to the woods, still wanting our people to follow them; but being disarm'd, they were apprehensive the Indians would bush- fight them, so they thought proper to give over the pursuit, and to return to the boat.

Thursday the 12th, hard gales at W.N.W., with rain. At six this morning we again saw the two Indians, they made the same noise and motions to come ash.o.r.e: At which I went with four of the people; the Indians walk'd and ran as before, looking back, and making signs to follow, which we did till we got to the place where the canoe lay with the four Indians in her. The two Indians got into the canoe, and put her off the sh.o.r.e before we could get nigh them: As soon as we got abreast of the canoe, they made signs as if they wanted clothing; we endeavour'd to make them understand we wanted fish, and would truck with them; they had none, but signified to us they would go and get some: They had a mangey dog, which they parted with to one of the people for a pair of cloth trowsers; this dog was soon kill'd, dress'd, and devour'd. Here we found plenty of muscles, which gave us great relief, having scarce any thing to subsist on for this week past.

Friday the 13th, very uncertain weather, and squally, the wind variable from W.N.W. to S.S.W. This morning all hands ash.o.r.e a-fishing. Lieutenant E----rs of the marines kill'd a large seal or sea-dog, it is exceeding good food, and we judg'd it to have weigh'd seventeen score.

Sat.u.r.day the 14th, little wind at W.N.W. and close weather, with rain. At five this morning cast loose, and steer'd south out between the islands, the weather clearing up, we saw the south sh.o.r.e: It first appear'd like a large island, stretching away to the westward, and at the west end two hammacoes like sugar-loaves, and to the southward of them a large point of rocks, steer'd S.E. until the point bore W. then steer'd S.E. by E. I took the point for Cape Pillar, and was fully a.s.sur'd of our being in the Streights.

Sunday the 15th, at three this morning cast loose, and row'd, but could not get out, so were oblig'd to put back, and make fast, it blowing hard, with thick weather all day, in the evening it clear'd up. This day several people drove a trade with their allowance, giving silver buckles for flour, valued at twelve shillings per pound, and before night it reach'd to a guinea, the people crying aloud for provisions, which are now so scarce, that several on board are actually starving thro' want.

Monday the 16th, at three this morning cast loose, being little wind, and steer'd up the Streights S.E. by E. the wind at N.W. At eight o'clock got a-breast of Cape Munday, at nine the cape bore W. distant four leagues, at noon running along sh.o.r.e, made two openings, which put the rest of the officers to a stand, not knowing which to take for their right pa.s.sage.

Asking my opinion, I gave it for keeping on the E.S.E. pa.s.sage, the other lying S.E. by S. On which they said, Sir John Narborough bids us keep the south sh.o.r.e on board. I answer'd, that Sir John tells us E.S.E. is the direct course from Cape Pillar: I'll venture my life that we are now in the right pa.s.sage; so we kept on E. by S. half S. After running a league or two up, and not seeing Cape Quod, nor any outlet, the wind blowing hard, we were for running no farther, whereas one league more would have convinc'd every body, but they all gave against me, that we were not in the right pa.s.sage: The wind being at W.N.W. we could not turn back again; so that we were oblig'd to put into a cove lying on the north sh.o.r.e, where we found good anchoring in four fathom water: No provisions to be got here, being a barren rocky place, producing not any thing for the preservation of life.

This afternoon died George Bateman, a boy, aged sixteen years: This poor creature starv'd, perish'd, and died a skeleton, for want of food. There are several more in the same miserable condition, and who, without a speedy relief, must undergo the same fate.

Tuesday the 17th, at five this morning, weigh'd, and row'd out, it being calm; at seven a fresh breeze right up the sound, we could not turn to windward not above a mile from where we last lay, we made fast along-side the rocks; all hands ash.o.r.e a-fishing for muscles, limpets, and clams; here we found those sh.e.l.l-fish in abundance, which prov'd a very seasonable relief. Just before we got in, one of the men gave a guinea for a pound of flour, being all the money he had.

Wednesday the 18th, the wind at W.N.W. in hard squalls, with hail and snow.

This morning cast loose, and stood over to the southward, believing the tide to run stronger and more true than on the north-sh.o.r.e, hoping shortly to get out of the sound, which is not above a league in the wind's eye. At two o'clock got into a cove on the south side, made fast along side of the rocks; all hands on sh.o.r.e getting muscles and other fish.

Thursday the 19th, fresh gales W.N.W. with hail and snow. This morning cast loose, and sail'd out, but could make no hand of it, our boat will not work to windward; put back from whence we came, and sent the people ash.o.r.e to get muscles. This night departed this life Mr Thomas Caple, son of the late Lieutenant Caple, aged twelve years, who perish'd for want of food. There was a person on board who had some of the youth's money, upwards of twenty guineas, with a watch and silver cup. Those last the boy was willing to sell for flour; but his guardian told him, he would buy cloaths for him in the Brazil. The miserable youth cry'd, Sir, I shall never live to see the Brazil, I am starving now, almost starv'd to death, therefore, for G.o.d's sake, give me my silver cup to get me some victuals or buy some for me yourself. All his prayers and intreaties to him were vain, but heaven sent death to his relief, and put a period to his miseries in an instant.

Persons who have not experienc'd the hardships we have met with, will wonder how people can be so inhuman to see their fellow-creatures starving before their faces, and afford 'em no relief: But hunger is void of all compa.s.sion; every person was so intent on the preservation of his own life, that he was regardless of another's, and the bowels of commiseration were shut up. We slip no opportunity, day or night, to enter into the suppos'd right Streights, but can get no ground. This day we serv'd flour and a piece of beef between two men for a week. Captain P----n, of his majesty's land forces, gave two guineas for two pounds of flour; this flour was sold him by the seamen, who live on muscles. Many of the people eat their flour raw as soon as they are serv'd it. The wind and weather not permitting us to go out, the men were employ'd in getting wood and water.

Tuesday the 24th, this morning it being calm, row'd out, at eight o'clock had the supposed right Streights open, having a breeze at W.N.W. S.E. by E.

through the first reach, and S.S.E. through the second, then saw three islands, the largest of which lies on the north-sh.o.r.e, and there is a pa.s.sage about two miles broad between that and the islands to the southward; there is also another pa.s.sage between that island and the north- sh.o.r.e, of a mile and a half broad. Before you come to those islands there is a sound lying on the south-sh.o.r.e: You can see no pa.s.sage until you come close up with the island, and then the imaginary Streights are not above two miles broad. Steer'd away for the island S.E. about two leagues, then came into a narrow pa.s.sage, not above a cable's length over, which put us all to a stand, doubting of any farther pa.s.sage. The wind took us a-head, and the tide being spent we put into a small cove, and made fast. At seven in the evening, being calm, cast loose, being willing to see if there was any opening, but to our great misfortune, found none, which very much surpriz'd us. The lieutenant is of opinion, that we are in a lagoon to the northward of the Streights. This I cannot believe, and am positive, if ever there was such a place in the world as the Streights of Magellan, we are now in them, and above thirty leagues up. If he or any of the officers had given themselves the trouble of coming upon deck, to have made proper remarks, we had been free from all this perplexity, and by this time out of the Streights to the northward. There is not an officer aboard, except the carpenter and myself, will keep the deck a moment longer than his watch, or has any regard to a reckoning, or any thing else. It is agreed to go back again.

Wednesday the 25th, little wind with rain. At eight this morning row'd out, and got about a league down; here we could get no ground, and were obliged to put back again.

Thursday the 26th, little wind; row'd out, got about five leagues down.

This day we were in such want of provisions, that we were forced to cut up the seal skin and broil it, notwithstanding it has lain about the deck for this fortnight.

Friday the 27th, little wind and close weather. This morning cast loose and row'd down, had a fresh breeze at north, steer'd W.S.W. into another opening on the south-sh.o.r.e, hoping to find a pa.s.sage out of the lagoon, as the lieutenant calls it, into the right Streights. After going two leagues up saw there was no opening, put back and made fast where we came from, being determined to go back and make Cape Pillar a second time, which is the south entrance of the Streights. Got abundance of large muscles, five or six inches long, a very great relief to us at present.

Sunday the 29th, hard gales from N.W. to S.W. with heavy rains. Great uneasiness among the people, many of them despairing of a deliverance, and crying aloud to serve provisions four days before the time. Finding no way to pacify them, we were obliged to serve them. We endeavoured to encourage and comfort them as much as lay in our power, and at length they seemed tolerably easy.

Monday the 30th, fresh gales at W. with continual rain. This day died three of our people, viz. Peter Delroy, barber, Thomas Thorpe and Thomas Woodhead, marines, they all perish'd for want of food: Several more are in the same way, being not able to go ash.o.r.e for provisions, and those who are well cannot get sufficient for themselves, therefore the sick are left dest.i.tute of all relief. There is one thing to be taken notice of in the death of those people, that some hours before they die they are taken lightheaded, and fall a joking and laughing, and in this humour they expire.

Tuesday, December the 1st, 1741, little wind, and fair weather, which is a kind of prodigy in those parts. In the morning put out of the cove, and got four leagues down; then the wind took us a-head, and we put into another cove where we got muscles and limpets. At four this afternoon saw an Indian canoe coming over from the north-sh.o.r.e; they landed two of their men to the leeward of the cove, they came opposite to us, and viewed us, then went back, and came with the canoe within a cable's length of our boat, but no nearer, so that we had no opportunity to truck with them.

Wednesday the 2d, little wind, with rain. At nine this morning row'd out and got about a league farther down; the wind beginning to blow fresh, we put into another cove, and found plenty of sh.e.l.l-fish, which kept up our spirits greatly, for it is enough to deject any thinking man, to see that the boat will not turn to windward, being of such length, and swimming so buoyant upon the water, that the wind, when close haul'd, throws her to leeward: We have been seventeen days going seven or eight leagues to windward, which must make our pa.s.sage very long and uncomfortable.

Friday the 4th, little wind at S. and fair. This morning rowed out, at ten got down, where we saw a smoke, but no people; we saw a dog running along sh.o.r.e, and keeping company with the boat for above a mile; we then put in, with a design, to shoot him, but he soon disappointed us, by taking into the woods. We put off again with a fine breeze, steering N.W. by W. down the Streights. The carpenter gave a guinea this day for a pound of flour, which he made into cakes, and eat instantly. At six in the evening abreast of Cape Munday; at eight abreast of Cape Upright, being fair weather.

Intend to keep under sail all night.

Sat.u.r.day the 5th, little wind and fair: At four this morning I saw Cape Pillar, bearing W. by N. distant eight leagues; saw a smoke on the south sh.o.r.e, and at noon we saw a smoke on the north sh.o.r.e, but we did not care to lose time: At three o'clock saw Cape Desseada, bearing from Cape Pillar S.W. distant four leagues, at four o'clock wore the boat, and steered E.S.E. The lieutenant was now fully convinced we have been all along in the right Streights, and had we run but one league further, on Monday, Nov. 17, we had escaped all this trouble and anxiety: As for my own part, I was very well a.s.sured, from the first entrance, that we were right, but the lieutenant would not believe that it was Cape Pillar on the S. sh.o.r.e coming into the Streights, but thought we were in a lagoon to the northward; so that we have been above a fortnight coming back to rectify mistakes, and to look at Cape Pillar a second time: At eight o'clock came abreast of the smoke seen in the morning. The people being well a.s.sured that we are actually in the Streights of Magellan, are all alive. Wind at W.S.W.

Sunday, little wind at W. with rain; at three this morning abreast of Cape Munday; at six abreast of Cape de Quod, opposite to which, on the south sh.o.r.e, saw a smoke, on which we went ash.o.r.e to the Indians, who came out on a point of land, at the entrance of a cove, hollowing and crying, _Bona!

Bona!_ endeavouring to make us understand they were our friends; when ash.o.r.e, we traded with them for two dogs, three brant geese, and some seal, which supply was very acceptable to us; we supped on the dogs, and thought them equal in goodness to the best mutton in England. We took from the Indians a canoe, made of the bark of trees, but soon towed her under water, and were obliged to cut her loose; steered N.E. by E. At eight o'clock abreast of St Jerom's Sound; at twelve abreast of Royal Island.

The Indians we saw in the Streights of Magellan are people of a middle stature, and well shaped, their complexion of a tawny olive colour, their hair exceeding black, but not very long, they have round faces and small noses, their eyes little and black, their teeth are smooth and even, and close set, of an incomparable whiteness, they are very active in body, and run with a surprising agility, they wear on their heads white feathered caps, their bodies are covered with the skins of seals and guinacoes. The women, as soon as they saw us, fled into the woods, so that we can give no description of them.

Monday the 7th, fresh gales at W.N.W. and fine weather; at six this morning abreast of Cape Forward, steered N. by E. At nine abreast of Port Famine, at twelve at noon put in at Freshwater bay, and filled one cask of water, having none aboard; at one o'clock put out again, steered N. by E.

expecting plenty of wood and water at Elizabeth's Island; at nine at night pa.s.sed by Sandy Point, it bore S.S.E. and the island St George E.N.E.

distant three leagues.

Tuesday the 8th, at four this morning, being calm, weighed, and rowed towards Elizabeth's Island, it bearing W.N.W. At four in the afternoon anch.o.r.ed off the northmost in eight fathom water, fine sand, about half a cable's length from the sh.o.r.e put the vessel in, and landed some people to see for wood and water. In the evening the people came aboard, having been all over the island in search of wood and water, but found none; here indeed we found s.h.a.ggs and sea-gulls in great numbers, it being breeding time, we got a vast quant.i.ty of their eggs, most of them having young ones in the sh.e.l.l: However, we beat them up all together, with a little flour, and made a very rich pudding. Elizabeth's Island is a beautiful spot of ground to appearance, with very good pasture, but it is entirely barren of any thing for the support of man. This day John Turner, marine, perished for want of food.

Wednesday the 9th, at four this morning weighed, and steered E.N.E. for the Narrows, with the wind at S.S.W., when abreast ef the Sweepstakes Foreland, steered S.S.E. on purpose to look for water; after going along sh.o.r.e about six leagues into a deep bay, we saw a fine delightful country: Here we saw the guianacoes in great numbers, ten or twelve in a drove; they are to be seen in such droves all along the sh.o.r.e for several leagues.

The guianacoe is as large as any English deer, with a long neck, his head, mouth, and ears resembling a sheep; he has very long slender legs, and is cloven-footed like a deer, with a short bushy tail of a reddish colour; his back is covered with red wool, pretty long; but down his sides, and all the belly part, is white wool: Those guianacoes, though at a distance very much resembling the female deer, are probably the sheep of this country; they are exceeding nimble, of an exquisite quick sight, very shy, and difficult to be shot: At noon, finding neither wood nor water, wore to the northward, at three got abreast of the Foreland, hauled in for Fish Cove, which lieth just round the eastern point; here we expected to land and shoot some of the guianacoes, but when abreast of the Cove, the wind blew so hard right out, that we were obliged to bear away for the first Narrow, it being impossible to get in. At eight this evening entered the first Narrow, meeting the flood, which runs here very strong; at twelve came to an anchor in five fathom, about a mile off sh.o.r.e. The tide floweth on the western sh.o.r.e seven hours, and ebbs five. This day Robert Vicars, marine, perished with want.

Thursday the 10th, at four this morning weighed, and came to sail; at six got out of the first Narrow, hauled in for a deep bay on the north sh.o.r.e to seek for water: The boatswain swam ash.o.r.e, and in half an hour afterwards came down on the beach, and brought us the news of finding fresh water. It being rocky ground and ebbing water, the vessel struck; we were obliged in this exigence to slip the cable, time not permitting us to haul up the anchor, we stood off, and on the sh.o.r.e till half flood, then went in and took the cable on board: After landing some people with casks to fill, hauled the anchor up, and went about two miles farther out.

Friday the 11th, at three this morning the boat struck upon the tide of ebb, it ebbing so fast we could not get her off, in a quarter of an hour's time the boat was dry; we were favoured with little wind and smooth water, otherwise she must have stove to pieces, the ground being very foul; it ebbs dry above a league off, and there is shoal water a great deal further out, so that it is dangerous for a ship to haul into this bay. While the boat was dry got all the water casks out of the hold, and put them ash.o.r.e to be filled. At six hauled the boat off, having received no damage; at eight, it being four feet flood, run the boat close in sh.o.r.e and took off our water, the whole quant.i.ty being four tons, out of which we were obliged to leave two puncheons, one quarter-cask, with three muskets, a funnel, and some other necessaries, and were very much concerned lest we should also leave some of the people ash.o.r.e. The wind blowing hard, and the sea tumbling in, we were under a necessity of hauling off and putting to sea, for fear of losing the boat. Since we left the island where the Wager was lost, we have several times very narrowly escaped being made a wreck, and sometimes have been preserved when we have seen our fate before our eyes, and every moment expected it, and when all the conduct and ability of men could have availed nothing. Any one who has been a witness of those providential deliverances, and doubts the being of a Supreme Power, disqualifies himself from any t.i.tle to all future mercy, and justly deserves the wrath of an incensed Deity. This day, at noon, being well out of the bay, and nigh mid-channel over, steered E.N.E. for Cape Virgin Mary, with a fine gale at S.W. At one we saw the cape bearing N.E, by E. distant nine leagues; at seven in the evening saw a low point of flat land, stretching away from the cape S.S.E. two leagues; at eight little or no wind, steered E. by S. at twelve at night doubled the point, the wind at W.

right in the middle of the bay, where we filled the water; in land lie two peaks, exactly like a.s.s's ears. We would advise all vessels from hauling into this bay, it being shoal water and foul ground. As for every other part of the Straights of Magellan, from Cape Victory to Cape Virgin Mary, we recommend Sir John Narborough, who in his account is so just and exact, that we think it is impossible for any man living to mend his works. We have been a month in those Streights, from our first sight of Cape Pillar to Cape Virgin Mary. The whole length of the Streights, the reaches and turnings included, is reckoned one hundred and sixteen leagues.

Sat.u.r.day the 12th, little wind, and fair weather. At one this morning steered N. by W. At four the wind came to N.W. Tacked and stood to the westward; the two points stretching off from the cape bore N.W. by W.

distant two leagues. At noon, the wind being at N.E. steering along sh.o.r.e from the cape, saw on the sh.o.r.e three men, on mules or horses, riding towards us; when they came abreast of us, they stopped and made signals, waving their hats, as though they wanted to speak with us; at which we edged close to the sh.o.r.e, where we saw to the number of twenty; five of them rode abreast, the others were on foot, having a large store of cattle with them. On sight of this, we anch.o.r.ed within a mile of the sh.o.r.e. The cape bore W.S.W. distant seven leagues, the swell tumbling in from the sea, would not permit us to speak with'em, by their motions, actions, cloathing, and by their whole behaviour, we took them for Christians: It being a plain level land, they rode backwards and forwards like racers, waving white handkerchiefs, and making signs for us going into a bay, which lay about a league to the northward, which we designed to do on the tide of ebb. The flood being very strong against us, they waited on the sh.o.r.e till the tide was spent; we weighed and stood to northward, the wind blowing right in from sea, and a great swell, we could not clear the land, so that we wore and stood to the southward, and very narrowly escaped clearing the breakers off the pitch of the cape, which lay about two leagues out at sea to the southward. At nine at night the cape bore W. distant six leagues; stood out to sea till eleven o'clock, then wore and stood in, the wind shifting to N.N.E. The next morning we steered in for the bay, and saw those people again; but the wind soon afterwards veering to the westward, and blowing strong, we were obliged to bear away: We could not by any means come to the knowledge of these people; whether they are unfortunate creatures that have been cast away, or whether they are inhabitants about the river Gallegoes, we can't tell.

Tuesday the 15th, fresh gales and fair weather. This morning saw the land; the southmost point bore W.S.W., the northmost point N.N.E. At eight saw two ledges of rocks, running two leagues out from a point of land which makes like an old castle. At noon the extremes of the land bore W. by N.

distant three leagues, had a good observation, lat.i.tude 49: 10 S. Course made this twenty-four hours is N. by E. half E. distant 104 miles, longitude in 74: 05 W.

Wednesday, the 16th, at noon abreast of Penguin island, not above half a mile from sh.o.r.e. We saw on this island seals and penguins without number, the sh.o.r.e being entirely covered with them. We find the penguin exactly to answer Sir John Narborough's description; therefore we beg leave to give it the reader in that excellent navigator's own words: "The penguin is a fowl that lives by catching and eating fish, which he dives for, and is very nimble in the water; he is as big as a brant goose, and weighs near about eight pounds; they have no wings, but flat stumps like fins; their coat is a downy stumped feather; they are blackish grey on the backs and heads, and white about their necks and down their bellies; they are short-legged like a goose, and stand upright like little children in white ap.r.o.ns, in companies together; they are full-necked, and headed and beaked like a crow, only the point of their bill turns down a little; they will bite hard, but they are very tame, and will drive in herds to your boat-side like sheep, and there you may knock'em on the head, all one after another; they will not make any great haste away." We steered N.W. by N. for the harbour of Port Desire: The going into this harbour is very remarkable; on the south side lies, one mile in the land, an high peaked-tip rock, much like a tower, looking as though it was a work of art set up for a land-mark to steer into this harbour; this rock is forty feet high. At five o'clock got into the harbour, run up to Seal Island, which lieth about a league up; here we killed more seal in half an hour than we could carry off, being obliged to leave the greatest part of what we killed behind. The people eating greedily of the seal, were seized with violent fevers and pains in their heads. While we were at Port Desire we had seal and fowl in abundance. The carpenter found here a parcel of bricks, some of'em with letters cut in them, on one of those bricks these words were very plain and legible, viz. _Capt. Straiton, 16 Cannons, 1687_. Those we imagine have been laid here from a wreck. The carpenter with six men went in search of water, a mile up the water's side; they found Peckett's well, mention'd in Sir John Narborough's book; the spring is so small, that it doth not give above thirty gallons per day, but the well being full, supplied us. The people grow very turbulent and uneasy, requiring flour to be served out; which, in our present circ.u.mstance, is a most unreasonable request; we have but one cask of flour on board, and a great distance to run into the Brazil, and no other provision in the boat but the seal we have killed here: Nay, they carry their demands much higher, insisting that the marine officers, and such people as cannot be a.s.sisting in working the boat, shall have but half the allowance of the rest; accordingly they have pitched upon twenty to be served half a pound of flour each man, and themselves a pound.

This distinction the half-pounders complain of, and that twenty are selected to be starved. While we were at Port Desire, one day dressing our victuals, we set fire to the gra.s.s; instantly the flames spread, and immediately we saw the whole country in a conflagration, and the next day, from the watering-place, we saw the smoke at a distance, so that then the fire was not extinguished.

Friday the 25th, little wind, and fair weather; went up to our slaughter- house in Seal island, and took on board our sea-store, which we completed in half an hour's time; turned down the harbour with the tide of ebb, in the evening, the wind at N.E. could make no hand of it, so bore away for the harbour again, and came to an anchor.

Sat.u.r.day the 26th, at three in the morning, sailed out of Port Desire harbour; steered out E.N.E. At six Penguin island bore S. by E. distant six leagues, and Cape Blanco N.W. by N. four leagues. This day I took my departure from Cape Blanco; I judge the cape to lie in the longitude of 71: 00 W. from the meridian of London.

Monday the 28th, moderate gales, and fair. This day served out all the flour in the boat, at three pound and a half to each man. We have now nothing to live on but seal, and what Providence throws in our way.

Friday, January the 1st, 1741-2, fresh gales and fair weather, with a great sea. At ten last night shifting the man at the helm, brought her by the lee, broke the boom; and lost a seaman overboard. The greatest part of our seal taken in at Port Desire, for want of salt to cure it there, now stinks very much; but having nothing else we are obliged to eat it. We are now miserable beyond description, having nothing to feed on ourselves, and at the same time almost eaten up with vermin.

Wednesday the 6th, departed this life Mr Thomas Harvey, the purser; he died a skeleton for want of food: This gentleman probably was the first purser belonging to his majesty's service that ever perished with hunger. We see daily a great number of whales.

Sunday the 10th, this day at noon, in working the bearings, and distant to Cape St Andrew, do find myself not above thirteen leagues distant from the land, therefore hauled in N.W. to make it before night. We saw to-day abundance of insects, particularly b.u.t.terflies and horse-stingers. We have nothing to eat but some stinking seal, and not above twenty out of the forty-three which are now alive have even that, and such hath been our condition for this week past; nor are we better off in regard to water, there not being above eighty gallons on board: Never were beheld a parcel of more miserable objects, there are not above fifteen of us healthy, (if people may be called healthy that are scarce able to crawl). I am reckoned at present one of the strongest men in the boat, yet can hardly stand on my legs ten minutes together, nor even that short s.p.a.ce of time without holding: Every man of us hath had a new coat of skin from head to foot: We that are in the best state of health do all we can to encourage the rest.

At four this afternoon, we were almost transported with joy at the sight of land, (having seen no land for fourteen days before) the extremes of which bore N.W. about seven leagues; we ran in with it, and at eight anch.o.r.ed in eight fathom; fine sand about a league from the sh.o.r.e; the northmost point bore about N.E., the southmost point about S.W. by S. This day perished for want of food, serjeant Ringall.

Monday the 11th, at four this morning weighed, and came to sail, steering along sh.o.r.e N.E. by E. This is a pleasant and delightful country to sail by: We kept within a mile of the sh.o.r.e; we saw horses and large dogs in great numbers, the sh.o.r.e being perfectly covered with them. At noon I had a good observation in the lat.i.tude of 38: 40 S. At the same time a-head land, which I took for Cape St Andrew's; it is a long sandy point, very low, where a shoal runs off S.E. about three leagues. Sounded, and had but two fathom and half at high-water. When we got clear of this, we steered N.E.

into a sandy bay, and anch.o.r.ed there in three fathom and half, fine sand; the north point bore N.N.W., the south point S.E. by E. Here is a great swell, and shoal water. This bay we call Shoalwater Bay.

Tuesday the 12th, lying in Shoalwater Bay, the wind at S.E. and fair weather. Having nothing on board the vessel to eat, and but one cask of water to drink, we put her in as nigh as we could venture; so that any person who had the least skill in swimming, might get ash.o.r.e: Here runs a pretty large surf, which may endanger our vessel; this puts us to a stand: To go from hence without meat or drink is certain death. A few of the healthiest were resolved to swim on sh.o.r.e, to get water and provisions; the officers, viz. the boatswain, carpenter, and Lieutenant E----rs, to animate the rest, first leaped into the water; eleven of the people followed them; in this attempt one of the marines was unfortunately drowned: We tossed overboard four quarter-casks to fill with water; lashing to the cask two fire-locks on each side, with ammunition for shooting. When the officers and people got on sh.o.r.e, they saw thousands of horses and dogs; the dogs are of a mongril breed, and very large. They also saw abundance of parrots and seals on the rocks, but not a bush growing on the place; they made a fire with horse dung, and shot a great many seal, which they cut up in quarters to bring aboard. One of the water-casks being leaky, they cut it up, and converted it into fuel to dress the seal. They caught four armadilloes, they are much larger than our hedge-hogs, and very like them; their bodies are cased all over with sh.e.l.ls, shutting under one another like sh.e.l.ls of armour. In this country thirteen of his majesty's British subjects put to flight a thousand Spanish horse. Horses are more numerous here, than sheep are on the plains in Dorset and Wiltshire. We on board see abundance of seal lying on the sh.o.r.e cut in pieces, but the wind blows so hard we can by no means get at it. We think ourselves now worse off than ever, for we are actually starving in the sight of plenty. We have but two people on board that can swim; to give them all the a.s.sistance we can, the lieutenant and myself, with the rest of the people, proposed to haul the vessel nearer in, and make a raft for one of the two to swim ash.o.r.e on, and to carry a line to haul some of the seal aboard: With much entreaty these two swimmers were prevailed on to cast lots; the lot falling on the weakest of 'em, who was a young lad about fifteen years of age, and scarce able to stand, we would not suffer him to go. While our brethren were regaling in the fulness of plenty ash.o.r.e, we aboard were obliged to strip the hatches of a seal-skin, which has been for some time nailed on, and made use of for a tarpawlin; we burnt the hair off the skin, and for want of any thing else fell to chewing the seal-skin.

Wednesday the 13th, fine weather and calm. At six this morning the boatswain shot a horse, and the people a wild dog. The horse was branded on the left b.u.t.tock with these letters A.R. By this we conjecture there are inhabitants not far off. At nine veered the boat in, lashed the oars to the hatches, and made a stage to haul up the seal. The people swam off three casks of water, sent on sh.o.r.e one quarter-cask more, and two breakers. Came aboard the boatswain, carpenter, and Lieutenant E----rs, and four men more are getting the seal and the horse on board, which was no sooner in the vessel than a sea-breeze came in, and blowed so hard, that we were obliged to weigh, leaving ash.o.r.e one quarter-cask, two breakers, and eight of the people. The wind at E.S.E. and a tumbling sea, came to an anchor about a league off the sh.o.r.e; we shared all the provisions among the company; we still see the people ash.o.r.e, but can't get them off.

Thursday the 14th, hard gales at E.S.E. and fair weather. Last night the sea was so great, that it broke the rudder-head off; we were doubtful every moment of the vessel's parting, which if she had, we must have been all of us inevitably lost. We were obliged to put to sea, not being able to get the people off. We sent ash.o.r.e in a scuttled puncheon some wearing apparel, four muskets, with b.a.l.l.s, powder, flints, candles, and several necessaries, and also a letter to acquaint them of the danger we were in, and of the impossibility of our riding it out till they could get off.