A General History and Collection of Voyages and Travels Volume Xii Part 10

The best place for anchoring is Pa.s.sage Point, at half a mile distance, bearing S.E. and the river bearing N.E. by E. distant three cables'

length; in this situation, a bank or shoal, which may be known by the weeds, bears W.N.W. distant a cable's length: The ground is coa.r.s.e sand, with sh.e.l.ls. 'Sufficient wood is to be procured here for the use of ships, and there is good watering at a small river. We found a little celery and a few cranberries, but neither fish nor fowl. The lat.i.tude of this place is 53 43' S. the longitude, by account, 73 24' W.; the variation is two points easterly. We anch.o.r.ed here the 29th of January, and sailed the 4th of February.

VII. YORK ROAD. The only danger of sailing into the bay, that is formed by two points in this road, arises from a reef that runs off to about a cable's length from the western point, which, once known, may be easily avoided. To anchor in this bay, it is safest to bring York Point E.S.E.

Bachelor's River N. by W.1/2 W. the west point of the bay or reef N.W.1/2 W. and St Jerom's Sound W.N.W. at the distance of half a mile from the sh.o.r.e. There is good watering about a mile up Bachelor's River, and good wooding all round the bay, where the landing also is, in all parts, very good. We found plenty of celery, cranberries, mussels, and limpets, many wild fowl, and some fish, but not enough to supply the ship's company with a fresh meal. The lat.i.tude here is 5339'S., longitude, by account, 7352'W.; the variation two points easterly. The water rises and falls about eight feet, but the tide is irregular. The master, who crossed the streight many times to examine the bays, frequently found the current setting in three different directions. We anch.o.r.ed here on the 4th of February, and sailed again the 11th.

VIII. BUTLER'S BAY. This is a small bay, entirely surrounded by rocks, so that no ship should anchor here if she can possibly avoid it. We found, however, sufficient wood and water to keep up our stock, mussels and limpets in plenty, some good rock fish, and a few wild fowl, but celery and cranberries were very scarce. This bay lies in lat.i.tude 53 37'S., longitude, by account, 749'W.; the variation is two points easterly. The water rises and falls here about four feet, but the current always sets to the eastward. We anch.o.r.ed here the 18th of February, and sailed the 1st of March.

IX. LION COVE. This is a small bay, and surrounded by rocks. The water is deep, but the ground is good. It is not a bad place for one ship, nor a good one for two. Here is good watering up a small creek, but no wood.

There is good landing at the watering-place, but no where else. We found no refreshment but a few mussels, limpets, and rock-fish, with a little celery. The lat.i.tude is 5326'S., longitude, by account, 7425'W.; the variation was two points easterly. The water, as far as we could judge by the appearance of the rocks, rises and falls about five feet, and the current sets at the rate of about two knots an hour. We anch.o.r.ed here on the 2d of March, and sailed the next day.

X. GOOD-LUCK BAY. This is a small bay, and, like several others in this streight, entirely surrounded by rocks. The ground is very coa.r.s.e, and the cable of our best-bower anchor was so much rubbed, that we were obliged to condemn it, and bend a new one. At this place there is a little wood, and plenty of good water, but the rocks render it very difficult of access. No man that sees this part of the coast, can expect to find any kind of refreshment upon it; and indeed we caught nothing except a few rock-fish, with hook and line. There may be circ.u.mstances in which it may be good luck to get into this bay, but we thought it very good luck to get out of it. It lies in lat.i.tude 5323'S., longitude, by account, 7433'W.; the variation is two points easterly.

The water rises and falls between three and four feet, though, whenever we had an opportunity of trying the current, we found it run easterly.

We anch.o.r.ed here the 3d of March, and sailed the 15th.

XI. SWALLOW HARBOUR. This harbour, when once entered, is very safe, being sheltered from all winds, but the entrance is narrow and rocky; the rocks, however, may be easily avoided by keeping a good look-out, as there are large bunches of rock-weed upon them all. We found here a sufficient supply of wood and water, the wood however was very small. As the water is constantly smooth here, the landing is every where good; but we found no supply of provisions, except a few mussels and rock-fish. The mountains round it have the most horrid appearance, and seem to be altogether deserted by every thing that has life. The lat.i.tude is 5329'S., the longitude, by account, 7435'W.; the variation is two points easterly, and the tide rises and falls between four and five feet. We anch.o.r.ed here the 15th of March, and left the place the next day.

XII. UPRIGHT BAY. This bay may be safely entered, as there is no obstruction but what is above water. The wood here is very small, but we found sufficient to keep up our stock. The water is excellent, and in great plenty. As to provisions, we got only a few wild fowl, rock-fishes and mussels. The landing is bad. The lat.i.tude of this place is 53 8'S., longitude 7535 W.; the variation two points easterly. The water rises and falls about five feet, but the tide or current is very irregular. We anch.o.r.ed here on the 18th of March, and sailed again on the 10th of April.

There are three very good bays a little beyond Cape Shut-up, which we called _River Bay, Lodging Bay_, and _Wallis's Bay_. Wallis's Bay is the best.

About half way between Elizabeth's Bay and York Road, lies Mussel Bay, where there is very good anchorage with a westerly wind. There is also a bay, with good anchorage, opposite to York Road, and another to the eastward of Cape Cross-tide, but this will hold only a single ship.

Between Cape Cross and Saint David's Head, lies Saint David's Sound, on the south side of which we found a bank of coa.r.s.e sand and sh.e.l.ls, with a depth of water from nineteen to thirty fathom, where a ship might anchor in case of necessity; and the master of the Swallow found a very good small bay a little to the eastward of Saint David's Head. A little to the eastward of Cape Quod, lies Island Bay, where the Swallow lay some time, but it is by no means an eligible situation. The ground of Chance Bay is very rocky and uneven, and for that reason should be avoided.

As all the violent gales by which we suffered in this navigation, blew from the westward, it is proper to stand about a hundred leagues or more to the westward, after sailing out of the streight, that the ship may not be endangered on a lee-sh.o.r.e, which at present is wholly unknown.

The following table shews the courses and distances, from point to point, in the streight of Magellan, by compa.s.s.[49]

[Footnote 49: Bougainville, in the account of his voyage, has given a tolerably minute chart of the straight of Magellan, but the names do not correspond with those used here, or by the English navigators in general. Perhaps the fullest and most accurate chart of this very intricate and unsafe pa.s.sage ever published, is to be found in the American Atlas of Jefferys, London, 1775. It is enlarged from one published at Madrid in 1709, improved from the surveys and observations of Byron, Wallis, and Carteret, and compared with those of Bougainville.

Like all the works of Jefferys, the Arrowsmith of his day, it exhibits most commendable diligence and attention to every source of information.

After all, however, it seems unlikely that this streight will ever become well known to Europeans, the inducement to navigate it being indeed very inconsiderable at any time, and the dangers it presents always highly formidable.--E.]

_Courses and Distances from Point to Point, in the Streight of Magellan by Compa.s.s._

Cape Virgin Mary lies in lat.i.tude 5224'S., and longitude 6822'W.

From Courses. Miles. Lat.i.tude, Long.

Cape Virgin Mary to Dungeness Point S.by W. 5 5228' 6828'

Dungeness Point to Point Possession W.3/4 S. 18 52 23 68 57 Point Possession to the S. side of the 1st Narrows S.W.1/4 S. 27 52 35 69 38 The N. to the S. end of the Narrows S.S.W. 9 ---- ---- The S. end of the Narrows to Cape Gregory W.S.W.1/4 W. 25 52 39 70 31 Cape Gregory to Sweepstakes Foreland S.30W. 12-1/3 ---- ---- Cape Gregory to Dolphin's Foreland S.W.1/2 W. 14 52 43 70 53 Dolphin's Foreland to the N. end of Elizabeth's Island S.1/2 W. 14-3/4 52 56 71 6 The N. end of Elizabeth's Island to St Bartholomew's Island E.N.E. 1-1/2 52 56 71 4 The N. end of Elizabeth's Island to St George's Island S.E. 8 ---- ---- The N. end of Elizabeth's Island to Porpus Point S.byW. 12 53 6 71 17 Porpus Point to Fresh-water Bay S.1/2 E. 22-2/3 ---- ---- Fresh-water Bay to Cape St Ann, or Port Famine S.S.E.1/4 E. 13-2/3 53 42 71 28 Cape St Ann to the entry of a great sound on the south sh.o.r.e N.E. ---- ---- ---- Cape St Ann to Cape Shut-up S.byE. 12 53 54 71 32 Cape Shut-up to Dolphin's Island S.S.W. 7 53 59 71 41 Dolphin's Island to Cape Froward, the southermost in all America S.47 W. 11 54 3 71 59 Cape Froward to Snug Bay Point W.1/2 N. 8 ---- ---- Snug, Bay Point to Cape Holland W.byS 13-2/3 53 57 72 34 Cape Holland to Cape Gallant W.1/4 S. 21-1/2 53 50 73 9 Cape Gallant to Elizabeth's Bay W.N.W.1/2 W 11-1/2 53 48 73 24 Elizabeth's Bay to York Point W.N.W.1/2 W. 6-1/3 53 39 73 32 York Road to Cape Cross-tide W.3/4 S. 10 ---- ---- York Road to Cape Quod W.1/2 S. 21 53 33 74 6 Cape Quod to St David's Head S.E. 4-1/2 ---- ---- Cape Quod to Butler's Bay S.1/4 W. 4 53 37 74 9 Cape Quod to Chance Bay S.S.W. 5 ---- ---- Cape Quod to Great Mussel Bay S.W.1/2 S. 6 ---- ---- Cape Quod to Snow Sound W.S.W.1/2 W. 10 ---- ---- Cape Quod to Lion's Cove W.N.W.3/4 W. 12 53 26 74 25 Lion's Cove to Good-Luck Bay W.N.W.3/4 W. 6 53 23 74 33 Cape Quod to Cape Notch W.N.W.3/4 W. 21 53 22 74 36 Cape Notch to Swallow Harbour S.S.E. 7 53 29 74 36 Cape Notch to p.i.s.s-pot Bay W.1/4 S. 23 ---- ---- Cape Notch to Cape Monday W. 28 53 12 75 26 Cape Monday to Cape Upright W.byN. 13 53 6' 75 38'

Cape Monday to a great Sound on the N. sh.o.r.e N. 7 ---- ---- Cape Upright to Cape Providence N.byW.1/2 W. 9 52 57 75 37 Cape Upright to Cape Tamar N.W.byW.1/2 W 18 ---- ---- Cape Upright to Cape Pillar W.1/2 N. 50 52 43 76 52 Cape Pillar to Westminster Island N.E.1/2 N. 15 ---- ---- Cape Pillar to Cape Victory N.W.1/2 N. 28 ---- ---- Cape Pillar to the Islands of W.N.W. 23 52 27 77 19 Direction

SECTION IV.

_The Pa.s.sage from the Streight of Magellan to King George the Third's Island, called Otaheite, in the South Sea, with an Account of the Discovery of several other Islands, and a Description of their Inhabitants._

As we continued our course to the westward, after having cleared the streight, we saw a great number of gannets, sheerwaters, pintado birds, and many others, about the ship, and had for the most part strong gales, hazy weather, and heavy seas, so that we were frequently brought under our courses, and there was not a dry place in the ship for some weeks together.

At eight in the morning of the 22d, we had an observation, by which we found our longitude to be 9546'W. and at noon our lat.i.tude was 4224'S.

and the variation, by azimuth, 116'E.

By the 24th, the men began to fall down very fast in colds and fevers, in consequence of the upper works being open, and their clothes and beds continually wet.

On the 26th, at four in the afternoon, the variation, by azimuth, was 1020'E. and at six in the morning of the next day, it was 98'E. Our lat.i.tude, on the 27th at noon, was 3654'S. our longitude, by account, 100W. This day, the weather being moderate and fair, we dried all the people's clothes, and got the sick upon deck, to whom we gave salop, and wheat boiled with, portable soup, every morning for breakfast, and all the ship's company had as much vinegar and mustard as they could use; portable soup was also constantly boiled in their pease and oatmeal.

The hard gales, with frequent and violent squalls, and a heavy sea soon returned, and continued with very little intermission. The ship pitched so much, that we were afraid she would carry away her masts, and the men were again wet in their beds.

On the 30th, the variation, by azimuth, was 830'E. our lat.i.tude was 3250; longitude, by account, 100 W. I began now to keep the ship to the northward, as we had no chance of getting westing in this lat.i.tude; and the surgeon was of opinion, that in a little time the sick would so much increase, that we should want hands to work the ship, if we could not get into better weather.

On the third of May, about four in the afternoon, we had an observation of the sun and moon, by which we found our longitude to be 9626 W. the variation by the azimuth was 544'E. at six in the evening, and at six the next morning, it was 558'E, Our lat.i.tude, this day at noon, was 2820'S. At four in the afternoon, we had several observations for the longitude, and found it to be 9621' W.; at seven in the evening, the variation was 640'E. by the azimuth, and the next morning at ten it was, by amplitude, 548'E.; at three in the afternoon, the variation, by amplitude, was 740'E. This day we saw a tropic bird.

At six o'clock in the morning of Friday the eighth of May, the variation of the needle, by amplitude, was 711' E. In the afternoon we saw several sheer-waters and sea-swallows. At eight in the morning of the 9th, the variation, by azimuth, was 634'E. and in the morning of the 11th, by azimuth and amplitude, it was 440'E. Our lat.i.tude was 2720'S.

longitude, by account, 106W. This day and the next we saw several sea-swallows, sheer-waters, and porpoises, about the ship.

On the 14th of May, the variation, by four azimuths, was 2E. About four o'clock-in the afternoon, we saw a large flock of brown birds, flying to the eastward, and something which had the appearance of high land, in the same quarter. We bore away for it till sun-set, and it still having the same appearance, we continued our course; but at two in the morning, having run eighteen leagues without making it, we hauled the wind, and at day-light nothing was to be seen. We had now the satisfaction to find our ailing people mend apace. Our lat.i.tude was 2450'S. our longitude, by account, 106W. During all this time, we were looking out for the Swallow.[50]

[Footnote 50: This is very liable to be controverted. Captain W. well knew the bad condition and insufficiency of that vessel, and had, in consequence, promised to _wait_ on her. But did he so, after he cleared the streights? Did he even appoint a rendezvous or place of meeting with her, after getting into the South Sea?--a thing so common for vessels sailing in concert. He has a.s.signed his reasons for not doing the former, in Section II. Of his neglect of the latter, no satisfactory account perhaps can be given. The reader will have some cause of wonder and displeasure at more persons than one, when he peruses what Captain Carteret has to say as to the propriety of sending out the Swallow on this voyage. One can scarcely help inferring from his words, that he had been intended as a mere forlorn hope, in navigating the difficult and dangerous pa.s.sage betwixt the two oceans.--E.]

At four in the afternoon of the 16th, the variation, by azimuth and amplitude, was 6E. and at six the next morning, by four azimuths, it was 320'.

The carpenters were now employed in caulking the upper works of the ship, and repairing and painting the boats, and on the 18th I gave a sheep among the people that were sick and recovering.

On Wednesday the 20th, we found our longitude, by observation, to be 10647'W. and our lat.i.tude 2052'S. The next day we saw several flying fish, which were the first we had seen in these seas.

On the 22d, our longitude, by observation, was 111W. and our lat.i.tude 2018'S. and this day we saw some bonettoes, dolphins, and tropic birds.

The people, who had been recovering from colds and fevers, now began to fall down in the scurvy, upon which, at the surgeon's representation, wine was served to them; wort was also made for them of malt, and each man had half a pint of pickled cabbage every day. The variation from 4 to 5 E.

On the 26th we saw two grampuses; on the 28th we saw another, and the next day several birds, among which was one about the size of a swallow, which some of us thought was a land bird.

Our men now began to look very pale and sickly, and to fall down very fast in the scurvy, notwithstanding all our care and attention to prevent it. They had vinegar and mustard without limitation, wine instead of spirits, sweet wort and salop. Portable soup was still constantly boiled in their peas and oatmeal; their birth and clothes were kept perfectly clean; the hammocks were constantly brought upon the deck at eight o'clock in the morning, and carried down at four in the afternoon. Some of the beds and hammocks were washed every day; the water was rendered wholesome by ventilation, and every part between decks frequently washed with vinegar.

On Sunday the 31st of May, our longitude, by observation, was 12745'W.

our lat.i.tude 2938'S. and the variation, by azimuth and amplitude, 59'E.

The next day, at three in the afternoon, our longitude, by observation, was 12915'W. and our lat.i.tude 1934'S. We had squally weather, with much lightning and rain, and saw several man-of-war birds.

On the 3d we saw several gannets, which, with the uncertainty of the weather, inclined us to hope that land was not very far distant. The next day a turtle swam close by the ship; on the 5th we saw many birds, which confirmed our hope that some place of refreshment was near, and at eleven o'clock in the forenoon of the 6th, Jonathan Puller, a seaman, called out from the mast-head, "Land in the W.N.W." At noon it was seen plainly from the deck, and found to be a low island, at about five or six leagues distance. The joy which everyone on board felt at this discovery, can be conceived by those only who have experienced the danger, sickness, and fatigue of such a voyage as we had performed.

When we were within about five miles of this island, we saw another, bearing N.W. by W. About three o'clock in the afternoon, being very near the island that was first discovered, we brought-to, and I sent Mr Furneaux, my second lieutenant, my first lieutenant being very ill, with the boats manned and armed, to the sh.o.r.e. As he approached it, we saw two canoes put off, and paddle away with great expedition towards the island that lay to leeward. At seven in the evening the boats returned, and brought with them several cocoa-nuts, and a considerable quant.i.ty of scurvy-gra.s.s; they brought also some fishhooks, that were made of oyster-sh.e.l.ls, and some of the sh.e.l.ls of which they were made. They reported that they had seen none of the inhabitants, but had visited three huts, or rather sheds, consisting only of a roof, neatly thatched with cocoa-nut and palm-leaves, supported upon posts, and open all round. They saw also several canoes building, but found no fresh water, nor any fruit but cocoa-nuts. They sounded, but found no anchorage, and it was with great difficulty they got on sh.o.r.e, as the surf ran very high. Having received this account, I stood off and on all night, and, early the next morning, I sent the boats out again to sound, with orders, if possible, to find a place where the ship might come to an anchor; but at eleven o'clock they returned, with no better success than before. The people told me that the whole island was surrounded by a reef, and that although on the weather side of the island there was an opening through it, into a large bason, that extended to the middle of the island, yet they found it so full of breakers, that they could not venture in; neither indeed had they been able to land on any part of the island, the surf running still higher than it had done the day before.

As it would therefore answer no purpose to continue here, I hoisted the boats in, and stood away for the other island, which bore S.22E.

distant about four leagues. The island which I now quitted, having been discovered on Whitsun-eve, I called it _Whitsun Island_. It is about four miles long, and three wide. Its lat.i.tude is 1926'S., and its longitude, by observation, 15756'W.

When we came under the lee of the other island, I sent Lieutenant Furneaux, with the boats manned and armed, to the sh.o.r.e, where I saw about fifty of the natives armed with long pikes, and several of them running about with fire-brands in their hands. I ordered Mr Furneaux to go to that part of the beach where we saw the people, and endeavour to traffic with them for fruit and water, or whatever else might be useful; at the same time being particularly careful to give them no offence. I ordered him also to employ the boats in sounding for anchorage. About seven o'clock he returned, and told me that he could find no ground with the line, till he came within half-a-cable's length of the sh.o.r.e, and that there it consisted of sharp rocks, and lay very deep.

As the boat approached the sh.o.r.e, the Indians thronged down towards the beach, and put themselves upon their guard with their long pikes, as if to dispute landing. Our men then lay upon their oars, and made signs of friendship, shewing at the same time several strings of beads, ribbands, knives, and other trinkets. The Indians still made signs to our people that they should depart, but at the same time eyed the trinkets with a kind of wishful curiosity. Soon after, some of them advanced a few steps into the sea, and our people making signs that they wanted cocoa-nuts and water, some of them brought down a small quant.i.ty of both, and ventured to hand them into the boat: the water was in cocoa-nut sh.e.l.ls, and the fruit was stripped of its outward covering, which is probably used for various purposes. For this supply they were paid with the trinkets that had been shewed them, and some nails, upon which they seemed to set a much greater value. During this traffic, one of the Indians found means to steal a silk handkerchief, in which some of our small merchandise was wrapped up, and carried it clear off, with its contents, so dexterously, that n.o.body observed him. Our people made signs that a handkerchief had been stolen, but they either could not or would not understand them. The boat continued about the beach, sounding for anchorage, till it was dark; and having many times endeavoured to persuade the natives to bring down some scurvy-gra.s.s, without success, she returned on board.