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1. Henriette Davidis, Practical Cook Book Practical Cook Book: German National Cookery for American Kitchens German National Cookery for American Kitchens (Milwaukee, 1904), 131. (Milwaukee, 1904), 131.
2. Davidis, Practical Practical, 11.
3. Gesine Lemcke, "Cooking Correspondence," Brooklyn Eagle Brooklyn Eagle, January 1, 1899, 23.
4. Author's recipe, adapted from Davidis.
5. Davidis, Practical Practical, 318.
6. Gesine Lemcke, "Cooking Correspondence," Brooklyn Eagle Brooklyn Eagle, March 26, 1899, 20.
7. "Uncleanly Markets," New York Times New York Times, May 22, 1854, 4.
8. "Market Reform," New York Times New York Times, March 29, 1872, 4.
9. "Local Intelligence," New York Times New York Times, December 19, 1865, 2.
10. Junius Henri Browne, The Great Metropolis The Great Metropolis (Hartford, 1869), 408. (Hartford, 1869), 408.
11. Thomas F. De Voe, The Market a.s.sistant The Market a.s.sistant (New York, 1862), t.i.tle page. (New York, 1862), t.i.tle page.
12. "How New York Is Fed," Scribner's Monthly Scribner's Monthly, October 1877, 730.
13. Mrs. Emma Ewing, Salad and Salad Making Salad and Salad Making (Chicago, 1883), 37. (Chicago, 1883), 37.
14. "Our City's Condition," New York Times New York Times, June 12, 1865, 1.
15. "Sauerkraut Statistics," Chicago Tribune Chicago Tribune (reprinted from the (reprinted from the Philadelphia News Philadelphia News), December 29, 1885, 5.
16. "The Sauerkraut Peddler," Washington Post Washington Post (reprinted from the (reprinted from the New York Evening Post New York Evening Post), August 24, 1902, 10.
17. Charles Dawson Shanley, "Signs and Show-Cases of New York," Atlantic Monthly Atlantic Monthly, May 1870, 528.
18. "Vienna Bread," New York Times New York Times, January 28, 1877, 6. ("Mackerelville" is a nineteenth-century term for the neighborhood that became the East Village.) 19. "The Household," New York Times New York Times, January 30, 1876, 9.
20. "Toothsome German Dishes," New York Times New York Times, July 11, 1897, 10.
21. "The Million's Beverage," New York Times New York Times, May 20, 1877, 10.
22. Browne, Great Metropolis Great Metropolis, 161.
23. "History of Beer," United States Magazine United States Magazine, August 15, 1854, 180.
24. Jacob A. Riis, How the Other Half Lives How the Other Half Lives (New York, 1890), 215. (New York, 1890), 215.
25. "German Restaurants," New York Times New York Times, January 19, 1873, 5.
26. "Where Men May Dine Well," New York Sun New York Sun, April 5, 1891, 23.
27. Emory Holloway, ed., The Uncollected Poetry and Prose of Walt Whitman The Uncollected Poetry and Prose of Walt Whitman, 2 vols. (Garden City, New York, 1921), II: 92.
28. Gesine Lemcke, European and American Cuisine European and American Cuisine (New York, 1933), 543. (New York, 1933), 543.
29. "Luchow's," Benjamin DeCa.s.seres, American Mercury American Mercury, December 1931, 447.
30. "Germany in New York," Atlantic Monthly Atlantic Monthly, May 1867, 557.
31. "The Yearly Turn-Fest," New York Times New York Times, August 26, 1862, 8.
32. "Jovial Souls," Brooklyn Eagle Brooklyn Eagle, July 14, 1891, 2.
33. "Sixth Plattdeustche Festival," New York Times New York Times, September 7, 1880, 8.
34. "New-York City. Germans in America," New York Times New York Times, June 27, 1855, 1.
CHAPTER TWO: THE M MOORE F FAMILY.
1. Andrew Carpenter, ed., Verse from Eighteenth-Century Ireland Verse from Eighteenth-Century Ireland (Cork, Ireland, 1998), 248. (Cork, Ireland, 1998), 248.
2. Nancy F. Cott, Root of Bitterness Root of Bitterness: Doc.u.ments of the Social History of American Women Doc.u.ments of the Social History of American Women (Lebanon, New Hampshire, 1996), 154. (Lebanon, New Hampshire, 1996), 154.
3. Letter from P. Burdan, 1894. Personal Collection of Kirby Miller.
4. Letter from Cathy Greene, 1884. Personal Collection of Kirby Miller.
5. "Those Servant Girls," Brooklyn Daily Eagle Brooklyn Daily Eagle, March 12, 1897, 3.
6. Johann Georg Kohl, Ireland Ireland (New York, 1844), 13. (New York, 1844), 13.
7. Kohl, Ireland Ireland, 45.
8. Charles Loring Brace, The Dangerous Cla.s.ses of New York The Dangerous Cla.s.ses of New York (New York, 1872), 168. (New York, 1872), 168.
9. Seamus MacMa.n.u.s, Yourself and the Neighbours Yourself and the Neighbours (New York, 1914), 70. (New York, 1914), 70.
10. Letter from Alice McDonald, 1868. Personal Collection of Kirby Miller.
11. Charles Fanning, The Irish Voice in America The Irish Voice in America (Lexington, 2000), 127. (Lexington, 2000), 127.
12. Louise Bolard More, Wage-Earners' Budgets Wage-Earners' Budgets (New York, 1907), 173. (New York, 1907), 173.
13. "Cheap Pudding," Irish Times Irish Times, February 1, 1879.
14. "A Day in Castle Garden," Harper's New Monthly Magazine Harper's New Monthly Magazine, March 1871, 554.
15. John F. Maguire, The Irish in America The Irish in America (London, 1868), 190. (London, 1868), 190.
16. Jeremiah O'Donovan, A Brief Account of the Author's Interview with His Countrymen A Brief Account of the Author's Interview with His Countrymen (Pittsburgh, 1864), 367. (Pittsburgh, 1864), 367.
17. "Sat.u.r.day Night at Washington Market," New York Times New York Times, March 17, 1872, 5.
18. Maria Parloa, First Principles of Household Management and Cookery First Principles of Household Management and Cookery (Boston, 1879), 87. (Boston, 1879), 87.
19. "Restaurant Calls," Brooklyn Daily Eagle Brooklyn Daily Eagle, July 3, 1887, 13.
20. J. C. Croly, Jennie June's American Cookery Book Jennie June's American Cookery Book (New York, 1870), 76. (New York, 1870), 76.
21. George Foster, New York in Slices New York in Slices (New York, 1850), 70. (New York, 1850), 70.
22. William Ellis, The Country Housewife's Family Companion The Country Housewife's Family Companion (Totnes, Devon, 2000), 97. (Totnes, Devon, 2000), 97.
23. Kathleen Mathew, "New York Newsboys," Frank Leslie's Popular Monthly Frank Leslie's Popular Monthly, April 1895, 458.
24. "Tempting Hotel Menus," New York Times New York Times, December 26, 1890, 8.
CHAPTER THREE: THE G GUMPERTZ F FAMILY.
1. "Hester Street Market," New York Times New York Times, July 27, 1895, 12.
2. Ladies of Congregation Emanuel, The Fair Cook Book The Fair Cook Book (Denver, 1888), 7. (Reproduced courtesy of the Beck Archives, Penrose Library, Special Collections, University of Denver.) (Denver, 1888), 7. (Reproduced courtesy of the Beck Archives, Penrose Library, Special Collections, University of Denver.) 3. Leah W. Leonard, Jewish Cookery Jewish Cookery, in Accordance with Jewish Dietary Laws in Accordance with Jewish Dietary Laws (New York, 1949), 166. (New York, 1949), 166.
4. John Cooper, Eat and Be Satisfied Eat and Be Satisfied: a Social History of Jewish Food a Social History of Jewish Food (Northvale, New Jersey, 1993), 80. (Northvale, New Jersey, 1993), 80.
5. Marx Rumpolt, Ein new Kochbuch Ein new Kochbuch (Frankfurt am Main, 1581), 120. Translated by the author. (Frankfurt am Main, 1581), 120. Translated by the author.
6. Florence K. Greenbaum, International Jewish Cookbook International Jewish Cookbook (New York, 1919), 84. (New York, 1919), 84.
7. "Where Strict Jews Eat," Current Literature Current Literature, March 1881, 408.
8. Bertha Kramer, "Aunt Babette's" Cook Book "Aunt Babette's" Cook Book (New York, 1914), 513. (New York, 1914), 513.
9. Matthew Hale Smith, Sunshine and Shadow in New York Sunshine and Shadow in New York (Hartford, 1869), 456. (Hartford, 1869), 456.
10. National Council of Jewish Women, Council Cook Book Council Cook Book (San Francisco, 1909), 48. (San Francisco, 1909), 48.
11. Fannie Hurst, The Vertical City The Vertical City (New York, 1922), 262. (New York, 1922), 262.
12. Albert Waldinger, ed., Shining and Shadow: An Anthology of Early Yiddish Stories from the Lower East Side Shining and Shadow: An Anthology of Early Yiddish Stories from the Lower East Side (Cranbury, New Jersey, 2006), 142. (Cranbury, New Jersey, 2006), 142.
13. Michael Ginor et al., Foie Gras Foie Gras, a Pa.s.sion a Pa.s.sion (New York: 1999), 41. (New York: 1999), 41.
14. Albert H. Buck, ed., A Treatise of Hygiene and Health A Treatise of Hygiene and Health (New York, 1977), 400. (New York, 1977), 400.
15. During the early decades of the twentieth century, ethnically based food rackets were common in New York City. Taking advantage of their fellow immigrants' fear and insularity, Jewish gangsters at various times took control of the kosher poultry industry, soda-fountain syrup manufacturing, and wholesale bakeries. Italian racketeers controlled artichokes, grapes, and pasta manufacture. All these rackets raised food prices mostly for that part of the population that could least afford it. Most food rackets were eliminated during the late 1930s, thanks to a concerted effort by the La Guardia administration.
16. "Some Queer East Side Vocations," Current Opinion Current Opinion (reprinted from the (reprinted from the New York Post New York Post), August 1903, 202.
17. Greenbaum, International Jewish Cookbook International Jewish Cookbook, 12.
18. Author's family recipe.
19. Anya Yezierska, Hungry Hearts Hungry Hearts (New York, 1997), 116. (New York, 1997), 116.
20. Henry Harlan, The Yoke of the Thorah The Yoke of the Thorah (New York, 1896), 205. (New York, 1896), 205.
21. Kramer, "Aunt Babette's," "Aunt Babette's," 24. 24.
22. Kela Nussbaum family recipe, contributed by Betsy Cha.n.a.les.
CHAPTER FOUR: THE R ROGARSHEVSKY F FAMILY.
1. "Humanity and Efficiency," The Outlook The Outlook, March 28, 1908, 627.
2. Menu, Ellis Island archive.
3. "Their First Thanksgiving," The Sun (New York) The Sun (New York), December 1, 1905, 2.
4. Frederick A. Wallis, "Treating Incoming Aliens as Human Beings," Current History Current History, AprilSeptember 1921, 443.
5. "Feast of the Pa.s.sover Celebrated," New York Times New York Times, March 26, 1899. 6.
6. Kosher menu, Ellis Island archive.
7. Frieda Schwartz family recipe, contributed by her daughter Francine E. Herbitter.
8. Regina Frishwa.s.ser, Jewish American Cook Book Jewish American Cook Book (New York, 1946), 47. (New York, 1946), 47.
9. Bertha M. Wood, Foods of the Foreign-Born in Relation to Health Foods of the Foreign-Born in Relation to Health (Boston, 1922), 90. (Boston, 1922), 90.
10. Jennie Grossinger, The Art of Jewish Cooking The Art of Jewish Cooking (New York, 1960), 147. (New York, 1960), 147.
